Author Topic: Help with frame related questions (Read 320883 times)

rcbprk · « **Reply #500 on:** 16 November, 2022, 10:36:47 am »

Thanks Dave, much appreciated. Its made it as far as the west end of Newcastle so I'm happy to keep in in the North East.

D.A.L.E. · « **Reply #501 on:** 11 May, 2023, 07:37:19 pm »

Trying very hard to not buy this... Shed any light on this Dave?

Bicycle Repair Man · « **Reply #502 on:** 13 May, 2023, 12:42:57 pm »

Sorry, without a frame number and size it is just another frame. If you can get said details I can help with date and other limited details. I might have the original order form but unlikely as most of them were lost in a flood when we moved from Wallsend

D.A.L.E. · « **Reply #503 on:** 13 May, 2023, 01:20:43 pm »

Fair. I was just looking for any clue as to what it was/when it was from. I can make out Machine on the top tube and that's about it. Will update if I buy it. Cheers.

fwevans · « **Reply #504 on:** 26 May, 2023, 11:10:02 am »

is it possible to change the steerer tube on some forks from 1 inch to 1 1/8 inch? or is that not good for the forks' longevity? Saw some 853 touring forks that I was thinking of maybe using on a bike frame. thanks

rogerzilla · « **Reply #505 on:** 26 May, 2023, 11:33:01 am »

Impossible. You'd need a new crown with a 1 1/8" steerer socket, so you'd be rebuilding the entire fork.

fwevans · « **Reply #506 on:** 26 May, 2023, 04:07:16 pm »

Ok thank you for telling. Learnt something new, though now I look at it, it is simple

rogerzilla · « **Reply #507 on:** 27 May, 2023, 12:18:15 pm »

There are reducing rings that allow you to use a 1" fork in a 1 1/8" head tube but there's little point; a 1 1/8" fork is stiffer where it matters. Most 1 1/8" forks are threadless and most 1" forks are threaded, just to throw in an extra complication.

Quill stems look nice, and most of my bikes have them, but a threadless setup is technically much better and you can really feel the extra stiffness. A quill stem is only attached at its very bottom and moves a lot during riding. You can tell this from the way a freshly fitted quill stem pumps grease out of the headset top nut!

onerousdeporte · « **Reply #508 on:** 01 June, 2023, 12:28:17 pm »

Any idea of the frame manufacturer that puts the serial number on the seat post part of the frame and the number start with NG.

The frame has a Raleigh head badge.

EDIT: It is a nottingham built 1974 raleigh. From here https://www.jaysmarine.com/TH_raleigh_serials.html

onerousdeporte · « **Reply #509 on:** 24 June, 2023, 02:53:50 pm »

Does anyone know about the Joe Waugh M Steel bicycle frame numbering?

Bought this

and people have mentioned that it looks very like an M steel build bike.

The frame number starts with mf, so is it an M steel bike, is there anyway I can tell?

Korri · « **Reply #510 on:** 27 September, 2023, 09:28:40 pm »

Hola, me llamo David, soy de España y tengo un cuadro JOE WAUGH y busco información,
pero nunca he usado un foro y no sé cómo poner fotos El número de cuadro es MS379
Gracias!

Blodwyn Pig · « **Reply #511 on:** 21 January, 2024, 04:24:35 pm »

Hj Dave , are you still there? Am I right in thinking you built Pearson frames? If so I have one, 22" 531 ST , 120 spacing at the rear, cantilevers, no upper rack mounts, no fork mounts, I'm thinking late 70's.

Untitled by mark tilley, on Flickr

by mark tilley, on Flickr

I think that says 1713
The cantilever bosses appear to be cubes rather than post where they attached. One of yours?

Bicycle Repair Man · « **Reply #512 on:** 04 May, 2024, 09:31:47 pm »

Quote from: Blodwyn Pig on 21 January, 2024, 04:24:35 pm

Hj Dave , are you still there? Am I right in thinking you built Pearson frames? If so I have one, 22" 531 ST , 120 spacing at the rear, cantilevers, no upper rack mounts, no fork mounts, I'm thinking late 70's.Untitled by mark tilley, on Flickr
by mark tilley, on Flickr

I think that says 1713
The cantilever bosses appear to be cubes rather than post where they attached. One of yours?

Hi Mark

Just found this, I sometimes get notifications about posts but in this instance not !
Alas, not one of ours. 1713 was an Audax frame built late Jan 1986 which was long before we started building for Pearsons. All the components of the frame look fairly generic for the late 70s there were a few builders turning out stuff like this around that time

Blodwyn Pig · « **Reply #513 on:** 04 May, 2024, 11:10:33 pm »

Ok thanks Dave, out of interest, how does 1713 relate to late Jan ‘86 ?

Bicycle Repair Man · « **Reply #514 on:** 05 May, 2024, 08:16:51 am »

The main number sequence starts with the first frame I built in 1976, 001. It continues through to 11553, a Condor, the last frame I built at Steel's in 2005. There were a couple of subsidiary sequences over the years, about 20 to 30 of the first 753's had a number starting DY753. All the Flying Scot frames we made for Dales in Glasgow were prefixed FS and I seem to remember some touring frames had the prefix MS. All the Condor frames had their own number stamped on the bb but were logged in our system under our number. I still have the original order books apart from a few pages missing from the first one although I do remember the first one I made at the workshop in East Howdon was 072. Given a number I can give date ordered, date invoiced, type, tube and size. We lost most of the original order forms in a flood just as we were moving out of the Wallsend workshop in 2005. I reckon that, including all the frames made here in the last 18 years I have made, persoally, about 4000 and been responsible for around 15000 all told.

Dana Kilalps · « **Reply #515 on:** 16 May, 2024, 04:24:00 pm »

Hello,
I have Flying Scot FS1845. It's my favorite bike lately. On the Flickr Flying Scot group a person posted that he was told "7 or 8 guys" built the later day Flying Scot frames. Is that true? Would we recognize these builders?

Bicycle Repair Man · « **Reply #516 on:** 16 May, 2024, 08:21:19 pm »

Hi Dana
FS 1845 is indeed a frame built for Dales in March 86 by us at M Steel Cycles. The chap that said he was told the Dales Flying Scots were built by "7 or 8 guys" was told wrong!! All the Dales Flying Scots were built by M Steel Cycles, I have never counted how many but I would reckon at least a couple of hundred. They were built to our standard designs apart from some custom jobs, all had the FS prefix on the number and many had SCOT engraved vertically on the seat stay top eyes.
Glad to hear yours is still going strong after 39 years

Johnsabi · « **Reply #517 on:** 20 May, 2024, 01:54:29 pm »

I came across this lopro frame recently and wondered if it was one of yours? I know GS Metro had some association with M Steel, and this frame has M Steel on the crossbar but I don't think the frame nuber is one of yours. Frame No. 247190.

gsm 2 by guzzijohn, on Flickr

Bicycle Repair Man · « **Reply #518 on:** 20 May, 2024, 04:35:37 pm »

Hi John

Not one of ours, I'm pretty sure I did not make any low pros with a bent down tube and the number certainly is not ours. Sorry, cant shed any light on it

guidon · « **Reply #519 on:** 21 May, 2024, 11:31:15 am »

I'm currently trying to fathom out whether to repair or skip a bike I bought recently.....It's a Daniel Salmon mtb (I live in Brittany so its is local)...
It's bent - from the saddle it turns normally to the right but dangerously quick to the left!
So the question is the back end....The wheel is standard: at the brake mounts it is centered but at the chainstays - 6.5 mm out! the front forks are also distorted by 3mm front to back although the wheel pulls them back into line...
It seems also that the downtube is bent in a couple of mm from about 200mm above the bb.......This all seems to point to a severe smack on the bb area yet the seat post appears straight....
Options :1. Attempt to press the bb area straight(er) 2. send it off to a frame repair specialist (however its ikely to be several times what the bike is worth, also involving shipping to the UK and customs etc) 3. Strip it and skip it...(chalk it up to being stung and in a hurry to get to work)

Your verdicts and opinions please............

Bicycle Repair Man · « **Reply #520 on:** 22 May, 2024, 08:23:55 am »

Hi Guidon
Not familiar with the make, is it a local custom builder, larger French producer, badged far eastern ? What is it made of? By "down tube" are you actually referring to the seat tube? A frame that pulls to one side usually indicates that the forks are at fault and your comment about it being "3mm" distorted points in that direction. A picture or two would be useful. Check the dish on your back wheel, a badly built wheel is often the culprit with back end issues. Check the frame tracking by tying a piece of string to a rear dropout then forward, around the head tube to the opposite dropout. Measure the gap between the seat tube and the string on both sides, it should be the same, if not the rear end needs re setting.
On the basis of what you have said I would get the forks checked and possibly straightend and try it again.

Cheers

Dave Yates

goodmorningboss · « **Reply #521 on:** 25 July, 2024, 09:24:41 pm »

Hi Dave,

Another frame question from sunny Gosforth if that's ok? A pal and I bought this unusual 20" wheel bike from our local bike charity for our kids to graduate to from their current bikes. BB is stamped with 8707 but I wondered if you had an idea of when it was built and it's specs? Thanks in advance!

Bicycle Repair Man · « **Reply #522 on:** 26 July, 2024, 08:11:39 am »

Now then, fairly sure I built this but the number does not tally. 8707 was a training frame built for Condor. By spec I presume you mean tube and the answer is whatever I had to hand !! Odd frames like this were always built with offcuts and whatever was available. It would all be decent quality Reynolds or Columbus as thats all we ever used. I dont have an order form for it as most of the order forms were destroyed in a flood at the old workshop as we were moving out in 2005.
All I can suggest is examine the nomber closely and see if it has been clogged with paint.

Sorry I cant be any more help

Dave Yates

goodmorningboss · « **Reply #523 on:** 26 July, 2024, 09:15:46 am »

Thanks for that Dave. Will have a good look around the rest of the frame and see if we can make any more of it out. Appreciate the help.