Are Pedals now a disposable item?

[Bianchi Boy]

I have used Time pedals for some years and now treat them as disposable items. The body and jaws are plastic and the bodies crack after about 18 months use. I always buy the ones that cost about £40 and since the replacement cleats cost £18 the pedals only cost about £22. The latest ones I have fitted because the bearings keep seizing if left for a week and are now as rough as can be. There are no replacement bearings available for them.

Are all pedals like this now?

Is it the next step in the drive towards a totally disposable world?

BB

[mrcharly-YHT]

'all pedals' are certainly not like this. I run Shimano M520 pedals and expect them to last through a nuclear war - the bearings are replaceable.
I can't speak for road pedals

[PaulF]

I'm still using the same original SPDs that I bought in 2008 for about £10 and haven't needed a service in that time

[ACyclingRooster]

I also have a pair of Shimano M520 pedals but have only used them for trial runs but could not get my head around them and the faffy way of getting engaged with the and much prefer the Look PP206 that are ever so easy to engage with.
A total replacement left knee back in November 2007 has restricted my use of the clipless type pedal even on the minimum resistance setting and ended-up reverting back to my trusty old Italian (Vittoria) Perforated Leather cycle shoes with my mid 60's original Marcel Berthet Lyotard Platform Pedals with Christophe Toe-clips and QR straps of which I actually have three complete sets.
Perhaps now at 72 years young I am a bit of a traditionalist - by the way they are all on their original spindles,cones and bearings.

[trekker12]

For road pedals the SPD-SL are Aluminium at the entry level and carbon at the higher level, no plastic. I can't vouch for the carbon ones as I can't justify the cost but the aluminium ranges seem pretty bombproof to me.

On a weight weenie racing bike then I guess plastic is acceptable at a cost of longevity but I'd rather have something that lasts over a few grams

[Samuel D]

Many pedals are disposable and many are so optimised for the headline specification of weight that they use plastic bushings instead of ball bearings. Since people buy this rubbish, manufacturers are encouraged to make it.

There are better alternatives including most Shimano pedals. If like ACyclingRooster you find SPD engagement trickier than Look (I do too), have a look at Shimano’s SPD-SL that are approximate Look copies.

I'm still using the same original SPDs that I bought in 2008 for about £10 and haven't needed a service in that time

The italic part sounds unlikely if they’ve been used much or in bad weather. Are you sure the third paragraph here doesn’t apply?

[Brucey]

I have used Time pedals for some years and now treat them as disposable items...... The latest ones I have fitted because the bearings keep seizing if left for a week and are now as rough as can be. There are no replacement bearings available for them.

Are all pedals like this now?

the pedals you have been buying are the closest thing to disposable pedals.  They contain a standard cartridge bearing inboard and a very crappy DU bushing which does the lion's share of the work and is central to the pedal. Both are available from good bearing stockists.

If the pedal bodies can be prevented from cracking, this might be of interest.

http://roues-aerolithe.over-blog.com/article-modification-pedales-time-xpresso-119468632.html

So far as I can make out (someone who speaks better French than I can confirm?), the bushings are upgraded to cartridge bearings. 

IME all pedals (that see hard use/weather) need regular maintenance and the use of good quality grease in the bearings; neglect at your peril.

To my surprise the tiny bearings in most shimano SPD pedals are easy to service and are (if kept adjusted and greased) incredibly durable. I have yet to wear a set out (and I have tried, taking pedals that have already seen lots of use/neglect, servicing them and then trying to wear them out....).  If SPD pedals suit you (NB they don't suit everyone) then they are a very pragmatic choice in other respects.  Similar bearings are (I think) used in some SPD-SL models too.

cheers

[Kim]

'all pedals' are certainly not like this. I run Shimano M520 pedals and expect them to last through a nuclear war - the bearings are replaceable.

M520s are disposable.  The bearings are admirably sturdy, but something in the clip mechanism wears over the first 1000 miles or so, causing a clunk with each pedal stroke.  I rotate them down through the bikes where I'm less inclined to pedal in circles for prolonged periods to get more useful life out of them.

I bought a set of M540s as an experiment to see if they were any better.  They haven't started clicking yet, but haven't really done enough mileage that I'd expect them to.

I should say that the pedals on barakta's trike are horrendously clicky, and she's never noticed.  I assume she maintains forward pressure all the way through the stroke.

[Cudzoziemiec]

No, I don't think pedals, at least the aluminium ones, are disposable. At least, they last a pretty long time; they might still be disposable in that ultimately it's not financially worth repairing them when bearings or clip mechanisms wear out.

I also have a pair of Shimano M520 pedals but have only used them for trial runs but could not get my head around them and the faffy way of getting engaged with the and much prefer the Look PP206 that are ever so easy to engage with.
A total replacement left knee back in November 2007 has restricted my use of the clipless type pedal even on the minimum resistance setting and ended-up reverting back to my trusty old Italian (Vittoria) Perforated Leather cycle shoes with my mid 60's original Marcel Berthet Lyotard Platform Pedals with Christophe Toe-clips and QR straps of which I actually have three complete sets.
Perhaps now at 72 years young I am a bit of a traditionalist - by the way they are all on their original spindles,cones and bearings.

It's a long time since I used clips and straps, but what are these? In what way are they quick release? Trying to visualise it...

[mrcharly-YHT]

No, I don't think pedals, at least the aluminium ones, are disposable. At least, they last a pretty long time; they might still be disposable in that ultimately it's not financially worth repairing them when bearings or clip mechanisms wear out.

I also have a pair of Shimano M520 pedals but have only used them for trial runs but could not get my head around them and the faffy way of getting engaged with the and much prefer the Look PP206 that are ever so easy to engage with.
A total replacement left knee back in November 2007 has restricted my use of the clipless type pedal even on the minimum resistance setting and ended-up reverting back to my trusty old Italian (Vittoria) Perforated Leather cycle shoes with my mid 60's original Marcel Berthet Lyotard Platform Pedals with Christophe Toe-clips and QR straps of which I actually have three complete sets.
Perhaps now at 72 years young I am a bit of a traditionalist - by the way they are all on their original spindles,cones and bearings.

It's a long time since I used clips and straps, but what are these? In what way are they quick release? Trying to visualise it...

You pull the tab up and then the strap can slide through the buckle. That's a QR, compared to a buckle with a tongue.

[D.A.L.E.]

'all pedals' are certainly not like this. I run Shimano M520 pedals and expect them to last through a nuclear war - the bearings are replaceable.

M520s are disposable.  The bearings are admirably sturdy, but something in the clip mechanism wears over the first 1000 miles or so, causing a clunk with each pedal stroke.  I rotate them down through the bikes where I'm less inclined to pedal in circles for prolonged periods to get more useful life out of them.

I bought a set of M540s as an experiment to see if they were any better.  They haven't started clicking yet, but haven't really done enough mileage that I'd expect them to.

I should say that the pedals on barakta's trike are horrendously clicky, and she's never noticed.  I assume she maintains forward pressure all the way through the stroke.

Can't say that's anything like my experience with, I think, half a dozen pairs.

[De Sisti]

Time Atac pedals still going strong well into the 2nd half of its 2nd decade on two of my bikes.

[Kim]

'all pedals' are certainly not like this. I run Shimano M520 pedals and expect them to last through a nuclear war - the bearings are replaceable.

M520s are disposable.  The bearings are admirably sturdy, but something in the clip mechanism wears over the first 1000 miles or so, causing a clunk with each pedal stroke.  I rotate them down through the bikes where I'm less inclined to pedal in circles for prolonged periods to get more useful life out of them.

I bought a set of M540s as an experiment to see if they were any better.  They haven't started clicking yet, but haven't really done enough mileage that I'd expect them to.

I should say that the pedals on barakta's trike are horrendously clicky, and she's never noticed.  I assume she maintains forward pressure all the way through the stroke.

Can't say that's anything like my experience with, I think, half a dozen pairs.

Like barakta, you probably don't pedal in a way that causes it to click.  Some people find this immensely irritating, others don't believe it happens.

6 cycles, 4 pairs of shoes.  It's definitely the pedals, not the shoes.  I'd try another pedal system, but that's a lot of kit to replace, and SPD is good at mud.

[JulesP]

I have used Time pedals for some years and now treat them as disposable items. The body and jaws are plastic and the bodies crack after about 18 months use.

I gave up on Time Xpresso pedals on my non-audax bike for durability reasons. One side of the last pair I had cracked within a few months' use and, by that time, I was tired of replacing cleats that wore down far too quickly from being walked on (little more than bike to café stop and back). The Shimano SPD-SLs I switched to work just as well, have similar float (I like lots) and the cleats are barely worn after almost two years.

[Bianchi Boy]

I have used Time pedals for some years and now treat them as disposable items. The body and jaws are plastic and the bodies crack after about 18 months use.

I gave up on Time Xpresso pedals on my non-audax bike for durability reasons. One side of the last pair I had cracked within a few months' use and, by that time, I was tired of replacing cleats that wore down far too quickly from being walked on (little more than bike to café stop and back). The Shimano SPD-SLs I switched to work just as well, have similar float (I like lots) and the cleats are barely worn after almost two years.

I am considering switching but had bad knees when I first came to Time pedals and they fixed them. Sounds like SPD-SL are the way to go from reports I have seen. Hmmmm do I have the courage?
BB

[JulesP]

I use spendy Ultegra pedals (for reasons I'm not entirely sure of...), but they're essentially the same as the Shimano PD-R540, which seem to cost around £26 and include 6-degree float cleats (which is what I use). Cheap enough for a gamble?

[grams]

My experience with SPD-SLs was that the cleats lasted a ludicrously short time before becoming loose / needing replacement (i.e. multiple times per year), so probably not great if you're concerned about longevity.

(although many people seem to miraculously not have this problem. I never figured out why)

[zigzag]

if you want the best and trouble free pedals go for dura ace, they will last a decade and more and won't require attention. i've got them on three bikes (7810 and 9000 models) used them for five years in all weathers and bearings are still super smooth without any hint of play. ultegra and 105 are still good but they have higher stack and lower grade bearings (but still better bearings than any other make). cleats last a long time too, i still use the ones that i walked on gravel for many hours. imo, spd-sl pedals is a product that shimano really nailed.

spd pedals are a bit meh, bearings are still very good, but the cage plates wear out fairly quickly and the cleat starts sliding fore-aft giving a clicky noise. most people don't notice that due to their (mashing) pedaling technique or mind the noise, but i find it irritating. i haven't come across a decent (for me) mtb-style pedal system yet and i've tried most.

[Brucey]

 you probably don't pedal in a way that causes it to click.  Some people find this immensely irritating, others don't believe it happens.

6 cycles, 4 pairs of shoes.  It's definitely the pedals, not the shoes.  I'd try another pedal system, but that's a lot of kit to replace, and SPD is good at mud.

AFAICT there are two main sources of clicking;

1) vertical free play and
2) longitudinal free play

The former arises with worn cleats (they get thinner plus they wear on the tops where the jaws bear against them) and the underside of the jaws can wear too. Often new cleats fixes it.  If the underside of the shoe wears (so that the jaws wear depressions in the shoe sole) then one is entirely reliant upon the fit of the cleat in the pedal if movement is to be avoided.

The longitudinal play develops more quickly if you have 'squirmy feet', i.e. you use the float as you ride. The jaws wear and the cleat wears.  If the jaws are not too worn, new cleats fix the problem.  If the pedals are worn, you can grind a little bit off the rear jaw stopper and restore the gap between the jaws to the new specification (which is about 0.5mm shorter than a new cleat).

FWIW PD-M520 is the newer 'open' design of SPD. Prior to that there were two earlier designs. The first featured low float and used a different cleat (with the same PN as later cleats, confusingly) and went until about 1997. 1997 onwards pedals (such as PD-M515) have a slightly different jaw design (mainly in the rear jaw) and allow more float with any given cleat. Both early  designs have a central platform (with small upstands) that may support a new cleat over a wider area than in the 'open' design. This is bad for mud clearance but better for avoiding vertical clicking.

 By contrast PD-M520 and other 'open' designs support vertical loads either by the cleat bearing against two tiny support areas on the pedal, or by the jaws bearing against the shoe sole. If the shoes are worn then even a new cleat soon wears against the two support areas; both the cleat and the pedal support areas wear. 

If you get vertical clicking with PD-M520 then it is worth considering

- trying different SPDs; PD-M324 have the 1997- design and so do some others
- new cleats
- swapping the cleats left for right (the wear areas are not quite symmetric)
- new shoes
- modifying the shoe sole to compensate for the wear where the jaws bear

I wonder, have you tried new shoes & new cleats with worn pedals? Does this click?  Might this sort of test help to identify the cause?

with shimano shoes and PD-M515 pedals I get obvious longitudinal clicking eventually, but something (maybe my pedalling style) means that there can be a little vertical movement possible and there isn't always an obvious clicking noise.

cheers

[ACyclingRooster]

 Hi Cudzoziemiec.
It's a long time since I used clips and straps, but what are these? In what way are they quick release? Trying to visualise it...

and to  mrcharly-YHT
You pull the tab up and then the strap can slide through the buckle. That's a QR, compared to a buckle with a tongue.

Pulling the tail end of the strap will secure the foot/feet when used in conjunction with shoe plates.

Also for those of you that are totally unfamiliar with the old style pedals,toe-clips and QR straps :---

The QR aspect of the Quick Release Leather and also of the Nylon QR straps is in the fact that the buckle has a quite prominent upper edge that can be very quickly engaged with the thumb and release is gained with a downward flick - very easy on a bike with derailleur gears or a single speed freewheel and after a little practice even on a bike with fixed wheel on either the track or on the street.
The straps can be threaded though the outer plate of the pedals and with several turns before exiting the opposite side and then threading them through the toe-clip it will reasonably ensure that the QR Buckles are on the outer edge of the foot and positioned such that the QR mechanism can be effectively activated.

[Wowbagger]

We are mostly using these now:

MKS detachables

I find them very good, especially when storing bikes or putting them in the car.

[Cudzoziemiec]

Hi Cudzoziemiec.
It's a long time since I used clips and straps, but what are these? In what way are they quick release? Trying to visualise it...

and to  mrcharly-YHT
You pull the tab up and then the strap can slide through the buckle. That's a QR, compared to a buckle with a tongue.

Pulling the tail end of the strap will secure the foot/feet when used in conjunction with shoe plates.

Also for those of you that are totally unfamiliar with the old style pedals,toe-clips and QR straps :---

The QR aspect of the Quick Release Leather and also of the Nylon QR straps is in the fact that the buckle has a quite prominent upper edge that can be very quickly engaged with the thumb and release is gained with a downward flick - very easy on a bike with derailleur gears or a single speed freewheel and after a little practice even on a bike with fixed wheel on either the track or on the street.
The straps can be threaded though the outer plate of the pedals and with several turns before exiting the opposite side and then threading them through the toe-clip it will reasonably ensure that the QR Buckles are on the outer edge of the foot and positioned such that the QR mechanism can be effectively activated.

Thanks. I realize I do know what you mean, I've never thought of them as "quick release" simply because I've never known any others! I used to thread the straps through in various ways but I'm not sure I ever fully got the hang of using the buckle on the move.

[tatanab]

Time Atac pedals still going strong well into the 2nd half of its 2nd decade on two of my bikes.

Me too.  I use the old old design with proper bearings at each end.  I used to buy them cheaply on eBay, but about 5 years ago they were "discovered" so prices jumped up.  I have 6 machines with them fitted and several pairs (some NOS) in store - enough to see me out I expect.

[orienteer]

We are mostly using these now:

MKS detachables

I find them very good, especially when storing bikes or putting them in the car.

I use MKS removable pedals on my Moulton ATB tandem and Bridgestone Moulton, with toe straps; I don't like clipless on the tandem as I can't be sure of unclipping quicly enough in an emergency.

Not only helps getting the bikes in and out of the car, also helps storing the bikes in the garage - especially my ankles as I squeeze past!

I use Crank Brothers clipless on my Moulton road bike, ones with a surrounding platform to spread the load across my feet, which the original eggbeaters didn't. Can get rebuild kits for these.

[mzjo]

I also have a pair of Shimano M520 pedals but have only used them for trial runs but could not get my head around them and the faffy way of getting engaged with the and much prefer the Look PP206 that are ever so easy to engage with.
A total replacement left knee back in November 2007 has restricted my use of the clipless type pedal even on the minimum resistance setting and ended-up reverting back to my trusty old Italian (Vittoria) Perforated Leather cycle shoes with my mid 60's original Marcel Berthet Lyotard Platform Pedals with Christophe Toe-clips and QR straps of which I actually have three complete sets.
Perhaps now at 72 years young I am a bit of a traditionalist - by the way they are all on their original spindles,cones and bearings.

Oh dear. Does that mean that I will have to give up my SPD's now I have my new knee joint ? Presumably unclipping the artificial side is still a problem even when you're stopped (and I unclip my good side naturally into the wheel which is a bit of a nono when moving). What a bummer !!
My classic Campag pedals seem to be everlasting- pity they are french threaded so finding cranks to put them on is a PITA.