Are Pedals now a disposable item?

[Brucey]

the latest generation of SPD "click'r" pedals have a much reduced binding tension and thus release much more easily.

If you want to make life easier whilst retaining standard SPDs there are a few options;

1. remove one of the jaw springs from each jaw
2. grind the jaws so that the jaw has to open less far before the cleat releases
3. grind the cleat so that it is shorter than normal.

If attempting the latter, it is best to grind the back of a standard cleat. If you change the angle of the flanks at the rear of the cleat, you can also make an easier than normal release.  If you have some worn cleats, you can experiment with those.

cheers

[Samuel D]

If the pedal bodies can be prevented from cracking, this might be of interest.

http://roues-aerolithe.over-blog.com/article-modification-pedales-time-xpresso-119468632.html

So far as I can make out (someone who speaks better French than I can confirm?), the bushings are upgraded to cartridge bearings.

Right, with three bearings replacing each bushing. The bearing code is MR128-2RS. Whether three of these miniscule ball bearings can match the load rating of the original bushing is doubtful to me.

He measured the inside of the worn bushing at 8.70 mm and the pedal spindle at 8 mm (presumably meaning 8.0 mm or 8.00 mm), leaving 0.7 mm play after only three rides.

Since the axle is titanium, he greased it with this, which seems like a bad idea. If that stuff has small particles in it and he used it when replacing the plastic bushing the first time it wore out, that might be the reason he got so much play after just three rides.

[Brucey]

yes that is not a suitable lubricant!

Regarding the load rating of the bearings, this varies with the manufacturer

https://www.smbbearings.com/bearingpdfs/MR128-2RS-miniature-bearing-8x12x3.5mm.pdf

suggests that the static load rating can be 27kgf and whilst the dynamic load rating is double that, this might not be relevant, because speeds are so low in relation to the design maximum of 28000rpm.  Three bearings that share the load might be barely adequate.

cheers

[mzjo]

If the pedal bodies can be prevented from cracking, this might be of interest.

http://roues-aerolithe.over-blog.com/article-modification-pedales-time-xpresso-119468632.html

So far as I can make out (someone who speaks better French than I can confirm?), the bushings are upgraded to cartridge bearings.

Right, with three bearings replacing each bushing. The bearing code is MR128-2RS. Whether three of these miniscule ball bearings can match the load rating of the original bushing is doubtful to me.

He measured the inside of the worn bushing at 8.70 mm and the pedal spindle at 8 mm (presumably meaning 8.0 mm or 8.00 mm), leaving 0.7 mm play after only three rides.

Since the axle is titanium, he greased it with this, which seems like a bad idea. If that stuff has small particles in it and he used it when replacing the plastic bushing the first time it wore out, that might be the reason he got so much play after just three rides.

I looked at the description for that grease and it doesn't say anything about particles. It is however a high temperature grease which sounds a bit like an aluminium complex like we used (and probably still do except that I don't do hydraulic breakers any longer) in chisel paste which was extreme high temperature and guaranteed to kill bearings faster than you could imagine. I still have a soft spot for MoSo2 bearing grease for greasing bearings which is the other extreme.

[Samuel D]

I see. All in all then, an interesting bit of DIY but perhaps not precisely the way to go.

Brucey’s load rating is low enough, given the lever (pedal body against axle) with which pedalling forces are exerted on the bearings. And that’s if the load is shared equally between the bearings, something I wouldn’t want to bet on in this arrangement!

Here’s another supplier giving a static rating of just 140 N. Surely this would fail in hours?

[Brucey]

the inboard bearing ought to protect the centre bearings from cantilever loads, so maybe it will last for a while, better than the DU bushing perhaps.

A similar arrangement is used in some other pedals such as HT ANS-01 pedals which have an inboard bush and three similarly small bearings that sit under the centre of the pedal. These pedal bearings do fail but the usual pattern is that the DU bush first wears enough to allow the load not to be shared between the three centre bearings properly, which then come out in sympathy.

cheers
 

[Bianchi Boy]

I have used Time pedals for some years and now treat them as disposable items. The body and jaws are plastic and the bodies crack after about 18 months use. I always buy the ones that cost about £40 and since the replacement cleats cost £18 the pedals only cost about £22. The latest ones I have fitted because the bearings keep seizing if left for a week and are now as rough as can be. There are no replacement bearings available for them.

Are all pedals like this now?

Is it the next step in the drive towards a totally disposable world?

BB

I have a pair of Time Espresso that are excellent after 4 years of riding. I know the cheaper end ones are a bit shite. There are ones with Stainless and Titanium axes (don't know the word in English anymore). Mine are the stainless (I think).

I also have a set of cheap Look pedals (what was their Blade about 10 years ago), they work great and don't complain!

The Espresso 4 are the ones that I buy. Last one year if I am lucky. 18 months at best. I must be hard on my pedals.

BB

[Oxford_Guy]

I did quite like my Shimano M324s on my commuter, but following the winter they've rusted terribly (yes I do clean my bike) and now look nasty :-(

[Somnolent]

M520s are disposable.  The bearings are admirably sturdy, but something in the clip mechanism wears over the first 1000 miles or so, causing a clunk with each pedal stroke. 

I found the A600s more prone to this - but for both models (and prolly other SPD models too) there is a simple fix:
Plenty of WD-40 on to the spring and scrub as clean as possible with an old toothbrush.  Goes without saying that WD-40 to be kept firmly away from any bearings.
Smear spring with grease and wipe away any visible/accessible surplus.

Why this works I have yet to determine (which I find profoundly discombobulating) but it does work, and needs repeating about twice as often as bearing service.

[Somnolent]

M520s are disposable.  The bearings are admirably sturdy, but something in the clip mechanism wears over the first 1000 miles or so, causing a clunk with each pedal stroke. 

I found the A600s more prone to this - but for both models (and prolly other SPD models too) there is a simple fix:
Plenty of WD-40 on to the spring and scrub as clean as possible with an old toothbrush.  Goes without saying that WD-40 to be kept firmly away from any bearings.
Smear spring with grease and wipe away any visible/accessible surplus.

Why this works I have yet to determine (which I find profoundly discombobulating) but it does work, and needs repeating about twice as often as bearing service.

 and I'm afraid I disagree with Brucey, cleat wear/shoe wear/plate wear doesnt come into it.

[ElyDave]

A600's never tried, but I ended up giving away a pair of Axxx which were platform one side spd the other as they developed a squeak-clunk that was driving me nuts.   Started 10 miles into a 50 mile ride and had me thinking the BB was about to implode.

I dismantled and regreased the whole thing to no avail, eventually gave them away to someone who wanted to try clipless.  I think the new spindle kit was 75% of the cost of a new pair of pedals, if not more.

[Brucey]

not sure why you concluded that a new spindle kit might be necessary, or might have anything to do with the noises?

FWIW the insides of the jaws and the springs can corrode.  Once every year or two I coat these parts in waxoyl and melt it using a hairdrier so that it coats every part thoroughly.  Once treated thus they can last a long time without corroding much.  They also tend not to squeak etc.

Also NB if the crank isn't moving and the pedal bearings are good etc, the only place where you can possibly get clunking is between the shoe and the pedal. Since this does not happen with new parts, it is perfectly obvious that (as Kim suggests) something wears to allow said movement; it is just a question of what exactly.

cheers

[ElyDave]

It was definitely not a cleatey noise. sounded much more like a rotational squeak to me and one of the pedals had quite a rough rotation.  I dismantled, cleaned and repacked the spindles and bearings, but no significant change.

I can't complain anyhow as I bought the pedals second hand for a fiver.

[Brucey]

because the cleats bear metal on metal, they can squeak once per revolution. Bearings can wear out if water gets in, the cones come adrift, etc.

Spindles can feel gritty when turned if the bearing is bad (of course) but also becuase there is dirt between the spindle and sleeve, the sleeve seal is bad, or the sleeve is deformed.

BTW if the cone and locknut come adrift (eg because they were never tightened properly), precession can cause the RH bearing to run loose and the LH bearing to destroy itself.

cheers