Author Topic: Curing squealing disc brakes  (Read 1048 times)

Ben T

Curing squealing disc brakes
« on: 30 September, 2018, 12:20:05 pm »
I've heard that one method of curing a brake squeal is to put some IPA on the pad and burn it off with a lighter. Any reason why this shouldn't be done?
Can it do any harm?, given it's a last resort, after cleaning/scrubbing, but before pad and disc replacement. So if it's not dangerous but merely might not work that's ok.
I get the aim of protecting ones own body from the ensuing flame.
Only reasons I could possibly think not to do it is it might damage whatever glue sticks the pad to the metal backing, or it could cause soot which might be a contaminant.
Any opinions?

PaulF

  • "World's Scariest Barman"
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Re: Curing squealing disc brakes
« Reply #1 on: 30 September, 2018, 01:00:08 pm »
Waste of good beer ;D

Not tried it but anecdotally views seem to mixed; the consensus is that it doesn’t do any harm as they can get far hotter in normal use but some people think that any contamination is absorbed too deeply into the pad for it to be effective.

I wouldn’t worry too much about the flame as IPA doesn’t flare like petrol but an alternative is to put the pad# in a hot oven.

Re: Curing squealing disc brakes
« Reply #2 on: 30 September, 2018, 01:53:07 pm »
Someone just wanted the laugh of watching you trying to do it.

Personally, recently switched from a set of sintered pads to organic and things are notably quieter (especially in the wet when squeal was at its wors).

So it may just be a "squeal" or "fast wear rate" choice.

Ben T

Re: Curing squealing disc brakes
« Reply #3 on: 30 September, 2018, 02:41:40 pm »
It's only the back, the front are fine. And the back used to be ok which is why I think it's more likely contamination than not bedded in properly. Can't recall an incident that could have caused it though e.g. use of spray oil.

Re: Curing squealing disc brakes
« Reply #4 on: 30 September, 2018, 06:36:39 pm »
rear brakes often squeal and the difference is that

a) the stays are flexy
b) the brake sees a lot more road dirt
c) the brake sees chain lube splashes
d) the brake is more likely to corrode (mainly because of b)

In many cases hydro brakes may appear to have pads that are merely slightly contaminated, but in reality the caliper bores are slightly corroded and the brake is starting to leak. The leak rate is very slight at first; so low that it is barely noticeable; fitting clean new pads and cleaning everything usually makes the brake work again, at least for a while. One tends to twig that something is wrong when you are having to delouse/replace the pads at monthly intervals.

cheers