What have you fettled today?

[LittleWheelsandBig]

Replaced the cracked rear mudguard on HK’s Brompton with a used one from the garage pile. Flintmined the tyres and sorted out the seatpost height limiter. Checked whether the Ti fork steerer had bulged (nope) and refitted the stem with friction compound at 15 Nm torque.

Replaced the slightly worn (I thought, actually clapped out) Octalink triple BB on my trike. Fitted a flashing light to the front QR nut.

Fitted a new tubeless tyre to the rear wheel of HK’s Moulton. Unfortunately it has a casing bulge bad enough to touch the mudguard. Time to wrestle a warrantee replacement.

[T42]

Barn-fettling, not:  Lifted a corner of our fallen barn door, put a support under it & rolled our old chopping-block in under close to the still-attached hinge, then removed the support to see if the weight of the door acting through the chopping-block as fulcrum would lift the hinge off the pintle. No dice, the door just bent.

Looking at it (eugh), it's ancient and wormy in parts, patched with odds & sods of timber where the boards have rotted away in the past. The hinge part attached to the door is strap iron about 1m50 long, held on with coach bolts that simply turn in the wood when I get a spanner to the nuts*.  I'll maybe try & get a hacksaw in. I'd like to preserve the iron and get it straightened if possible.

I'm now thinking about a rebuild: I'd make a cross-braced frame then add the vertical boards once it was up. I can get 4-metre autoclaved planks at ~20€ each.

I've ordered a 5m ladder and I'm thinking about getting a chain hoist. Ah, country life!

Have a pic:



...seem to have a touch of sciatica. Funny, that.

* ouch.

[Paul]

Oi! Were you born in a barn?
Oh. I see. As you were.

[Kim]

Yeah, that would definitely be a lot easier if it were a piece of lighting equipment.

[andytheflyer]

Been away from regular cycling for a year or 2 mainly for personal reasons, but have been enticed back into it on my Ridgeback Hybrid by a friend. 

Didn't think about fettling other than checking brakes and gearset, and cleaning and lubing.  Pumped the tyres up and we've done a few rides recently.  All very pleasant.

Couple of days ago thought to look closely at the Contis which came with it when I bought the bike off my London-commuter son a good few years ago. They'll be, ahem, at least 15 years old.

Perished.  Very.  Couldn't get a similar smooth urban Conti so opted for Marathon Pluses.  Had them before on my 20/26 'bent so yes, yes, I know all about fitting them.

That wasn't the hard bit.  Changed the front in about 10 mins flat, doddle.  The rear was more of a challenge as the ancient Conti had glued itself to the Alex rim as the tyre rubber degraded.  Eventually got it off to find that the tube was a 26" but was way too fat so had been scrunched up in the tyre.  That went in the bin to be replaced by the correct size.  Getting the new M+ on was a struggle as the sticky residue from the old tyre kept gripping the M+ bead stopping it dropping into the rim well.  Broke a glassfibre tyre lever setting it on (I know, the front went on by hand) but eventually got it on.  Checked for a trapped tube - all OK - then pumped up.  Both still fully inflated overnight so just have to ride them now.

M Pluses.  Doncha just love 'em?

[Mrs Pingu]

We've just fettled the fridge freezer and the washing machine into the glory hole under the stairs so the vinyl fitter can fit the new kitchen floor tomorrow.
The fun part of that came when we decided the plumber had manage to fit the gubbins in such a way that there was no way to get the washer plug out of the hole in the cupboard past the copper pipe right behind the access hole. So a mk1 bicycle cable cutter was employed to chop the plug off the lead. 

[peterc]

Sewing machine, mostly making the broken light switch go from broken and always off to still broken but now always on.

If we don't want the light on we can unscrew the bulb, also LED bulb on order so it will be cool enough to unscrew...

May have to have another long hard stare at the foot pedal as it seems to only have two settings, which is not why one has a pedal I assume.

[Jayjay]

Aye, I recall Mum's old Singer had a resistor type foot control that went from "groan" to "sprint" with not much in between.

Anyway, I been replacing Saphira's 20 inch M+ one per evening this week, not that they take that long to swap, but each wheel had another job to go with it. Rear wheel had a sticky V- parking brake (not fettled for about 5 years, the o-rings have worked well) and the fronts had new bearings put in.
 I couldn't find the prior replacement date for the back, eventually concluded it was because they lasted 15000 miles to the fronts mere 10000 or so.

[Pingu]

We've just fettled the fridge freezer and the washing machine into the glory hole under the stairs so the vinyl fitter can fit the new kitchen floor tomorrow.
The fun part of that came when we decided the plumber had manage to fit the gubbins in such a way that there was no way to get the washer plug out of the hole in the cupboard past the copper pipe right behind the access hole. So a mk1 bicycle cable cutter was employed to chop the plug off the lead. 

Fettling a mains plug onto an appliance - I've not done that for years 

[Kim]

Fettling a mains plug onto an appliance - I've not done that for years 

I seem to find myself doing it on an irregular basis, usually because the appliance was supplied with a plug for use in ABROAD, or in the event of hoover cable fatigue or similar.  Slightly more common is fettling extension leads, 4-ways and the like, especially if doing devious things with IEC, BS546 or Ceeform connectors.

What I have noticed is that the plugs keep getting older.  I don't think I've bought a plug since the mid-90s, but if a dead appliance has a re-wirable plug or moulded plug with a decent cable attached, I'll lop it off and squirrel it away in case it comes in useful.  But if I go rummaging in the mains power box for a plug, it always seems to be a rattly MK one from about 1986.

On the odd occasion that I molish something mains-powered, I try to use an IEC inlet rather than fitting it with a cable and plug.  It's just less hassle in the long run.

[T42]

Unpacked a new 5m telescopic folding ladder, found that the silly sods at the factory had riveted one foot in with a 30° twist from where it should have been and spent a jolly half-hour cutting the rivets out, redressing the foot, hunting for my riveter and fixing it.  Then added the stabilizer bar: screw-holes didn't line up, natch, so more fun there.  Sussed out the telescoping/folding mech, tried it, didn't fall off, all well.

Also deflated my front tyre & checked the rim wall width in a couple of places.  All well: min 1.3 mm.

[Diver300]

Fettling a mains plug onto an appliance - I've not done that for years 

I seem to find myself doing it on an irregular basis, usually because the appliance was supplied with a plug for use in ABROAD, or in the event of hoover cable fatigue or similar.  Slightly more common is fettling extension leads, 4-ways and the like, especially if doing devious things with IEC, BS546 or Ceeform connectors.

What I have noticed is that the plugs keep getting older.  I don't think I've bought a plug since the mid-90s, but if a dead appliance has a re-wirable plug or moulded plug with a decent cable attached, I'll lop it off and squirrel it away in case it comes in useful.  But if I go rummaging in the mains power box for a plug, it always seems to be a rattly MK one from about 1986.

On the odd occasion that I molish something mains-powered, I try to use an IEC inlet rather than fitting it with a cable and plug.  It's just less hassle in the long run.

That describes my experiences closely.

In Asda today, I noticed that in spite of a good range or adaptors for USB power and foreign connectors, not one plug was on sale on its own, only as part of an extension lead. I guess that most of the people who might put a plug on something, already have a good stash of plugs from the last century. I know that I have.*

*Don't ask how many 13 A fuses I have acquired over the years, mainly due to replacing them with something half-way appropriate for the cable rating.

[Jayjay]

I haven't found a 13A pug with tinned wires for a few years, for which I am thankful, but only in the last 10 years or so cottoned on to leaving some slack in the earth tail so that it is the last to disconnect if the cable is forcefully snatched out.

Anyway, new chain on Saphira, exchange done out in the blazing sunshine. The old chain lasted 8000 miles which I am pleased about (0.75% slack).

[LittleWheelsandBig]

Tweaked the derailleur hanger on HK’s Trice and adjusted the cable tension. I think the bar end lever is a touch worn and may need replacement. Ordered the new RH crank and middle and granny rings.

Raised the aerobar pads on my trike. Still need to replace the brake levers and handlebar tape.

[Feanor]

We've just fettled the fridge freezer and the washing machine into the glory hole under the stairs so the vinyl fitter can fit the new kitchen floor tomorrow.
The fun part of that came when we decided the plumber had manage to fit the gubbins in such a way that there was no way to get the washer plug out of the hole in the cupboard past the copper pipe right behind the access hole. So a mk1 bicycle cable cutter was employed to chop the plug off the lead. 

Fettling a mains plug onto an appliance - I've not done that for years 

Am really struggling to understand the circumstances that lead to this.
It got in there, so why can't it come out?

The mains plug got through the hole initially, and then other things like drain hoses and cold water pipes later, once the only thing in the hole was was the skinny cable.
Why can't the whole installation procedure be reversed?
Remove the drain hose and fill hose, then remove the plug?

Has some non-reversible thing been done *after* the machine has been installed?

[Kim]

Re-inflated my rear shock using a CO2 cartridge and carefulling, having discovered that the weird clunking was the suspension bottoming out, but only after putting a suboptimal amount of vertical distance between myself and a campsite with a sufficiency of snoozing MTBers who might have a shock pump.  On a Sunday when the only bike shop anywhere near my route home was shut.

It got me home fine.  Not sure what happened to cause it to lose nearly all the pressure overnight, but it's bound to be annoying and/or expensive, as the Streetmachine uses an unobtanium size rear shock.

[Mrs Pingu]

We've just fettled the fridge freezer and the washing machine into the glory hole under the stairs so the vinyl fitter can fit the new kitchen floor tomorrow.
The fun part of that came when we decided the plumber had manage to fit the gubbins in such a way that there was no way to get the washer plug out of the hole in the cupboard past the copper pipe right behind the access hole. So a mk1 bicycle cable cutter was employed to chop the plug off the lead. 

Fettling a mains plug onto an appliance - I've not done that for years 

Am really struggling to understand the circumstances that lead to this.
It got in there, so why can't it come out?

The mains plug got through the hole initially, and then other things like drain hoses and cold water pipes later, once the only thing in the hole was was the skinny cable.
Why can't the whole installation procedure be reversed?
Remove the drain hose and fill hose, then remove the plug?

Has some non-reversible thing been done *after* the machine has been installed?

The drain and cold water hose were nowhere near the hole for the plug. Right behind the hole in the cabinet for the plug is a copper water pipe. The copper pipe was very close to the back the cabinet. The washer wire was running between the back of the cabinet and the copper pipe, so even if we'd got the plug back out of the hole we'd not have got it past the pipe. I can only assume the cabinet or the back of the cabinet was put in place after the plug was shoved thru into the cabinet. Yes, I don't know why.

While I'm here, I'd also like to complain about people siting the socket for the washer right under the sink drain. It gives me the heebie jeebies.

[Kim]

While I'm here, I'd also like to complain about people siting the socket for the washer right under the sink drain. It gives me the heebie jeebies.

Still better than behind the machine.  Especially if you have to Sokoban the fridge to gain enough space to pull it out (DAHIKT).  I know a lot of modern kitchens do the hidden socket fed through a fused isolator at counter level thing, but unless the appliance is hard-wired I'd rather the plug was somewhere I could get at without drama.

[Mrs Pingu]

Put one of those door bars down between the professionally fitted kitchen floor and the scraps I threw at the understair cupboard.
I was going to put a new lock on the bathroom door after that but I decided I didn't have enough tuits  remaining.

[robgul]

Re-inflated my rear shock using a CO2 cartridge and carefulling, having discovered that the weird clunking was the suspension bottoming out, but only after putting a suboptimal amount of vertical distance between myself and a campsite with a sufficiency of snoozing MTBers who might have a shock pump.  On a Sunday when the only bike shop anywhere near my route home was shut.

It got me home fine.  Not sure what happened to cause it to lose nearly all the pressure overnight, but it's bound to be annoying and/or expensive, as the Streetmachine uses an unobtanium size rear shock.

Was loss of pressure related to the "degrading" of CO2 as happens with tyres?  (just a random thought?)

[Mrs Pingu]

Ok riddle me this? What is the black magic way of putting a door knob on where the screw holes in the rose are partially obscured by the knob itself, such that you can't get a screwdriver in there square on, let alone a drill for pilot holes?

[Kim]

Re-inflated my rear shock using a CO2 cartridge and carefulling, having discovered that the weird clunking was the suspension bottoming out, but only after putting a suboptimal amount of vertical distance between myself and a campsite with a sufficiency of snoozing MTBers who might have a shock pump.  On a Sunday when the only bike shop anywhere near my route home was shut.

It got me home fine.  Not sure what happened to cause it to lose nearly all the pressure overnight, but it's bound to be annoying and/or expensive, as the Streetmachine uses an unobtanium size rear shock.

Was loss of pressure related to the "degrading" of CO2 as happens with tyres?  (just a random thought?)

Seems unlikely, as I only inflated it with CO2 in desperation *after* it mysteriously lost pressure 70 miles from my shock pump.

Anticipating CO2 solubility issues, I deflated it completely and re-filled with air when I got home.  I think it's still losing pressure, but at the previous rate of 'top it up every few weeks' rather than 'wonder what's clunking the next day'.

Replacement o-ring kit that allegedly fits the shock in question ordered.  Maybe that will help.

[Feanor]

An emergency trip to Edinburgh, to fettle the flat.
To be read in a Pam Ayres voice, (but the metre is inspired by the railway pomes of TS Eliot and WH Auden):

Message in Whatsapp
Neighbours in pain

The smoke alarm's sounding
I'm off on the train

Smoke alarm silenced
No fire was found

Just as well really
Too long to respond

Students have been here
The place is a rout

Dishwasher emptied
Bins taken out

Lunch from the Deli
Fresh as you please

Run for the train
And I make it with ease!

[perpetual dan]

Ok riddle me this? What is the black magic way of putting a door knob on where the screw holes in the rose are partially obscured by the knob itself, such that you can't get a screwdriver in there square on, let alone a drill for pilot holes?

For the pilot holes I’d mark with a pencil and drill without the handle in place.

Then replace the screws with ones with hex heads, and use an Allen key which will fit in the gap? :p

[robgul]

Ok riddle me this? What is the black magic way of putting a door knob on where the screw holes in the rose are partially obscured by the knob itself, such that you can't get a screwdriver in there square on, let alone a drill for pilot holes?

For the pilot holes I’d mark with a pencil and drill without the handle in place.

Then replace the screws with ones with hex heads, and use an Allen key which will fit in the gap? :p

Ditto first point answer  - for screws: either right-angle screwdriver attachement for a drill (but probably too bulky) - OR make a dedicated tool by bending the tip of a suitable screwdriver to 90 degrees (works better with pozi or torx screws) and screw using part turn, remove, repeat etc.