Trike Mudguard refurb question

[fd3]

I have been looking for a more budget alternative to buying new front mudguards for my tadpole trike (Catrike 700, 355 _aka18"_ front wheels).  I have had an offer of some used ICE front mudguards, but my questions are
Would they fit?
The mudguards (as opposed to the attachments) would need fixing/replacing, so I would need to buy new guards - how much is that likely to cost and how doable is this for someone who's toolbox is an electric drill, some spanners and a hammer?
Cosmetics - lots of peeling paint off the attachments, is this something you pay to powdercoat or just get some metal paint?

I'm uncertain, as on one hand if I can make some savings that would be great.  On the other hand if I have to pay postage, buy parts and sped time/money to get something half as nice for ~half the price is the savings worth it? (The answer would be a definite "yes" for my SPM and my DF as those bikes are very budget and don't look nice, but the Catrike is in good condition so the only bike likely to remain pretty).

But then possibly there is no/limited stock new anyway...

[Kim]

I don't think there's anything particularly special about the ICE front mudguards, other than the bracket they attach to.  You may need to drill mounting holes in the right place, but that's straightforward.  Not sure how well a mudguard designed for a 20" wheel fits an 18", though I'm sure it's a lot better than the other way round.

The tricky thing with recumbent mudguards in general is that you need weird quantities.  Two fronts, or front and rear in different wheel sizes or whatever, and it gets expensive if you have to buy them in matching front/rear pairs.  Recumbent dealers probably have this worked out, but that means dealing with recumbent dealers...

[fd3]

So, cosmetic/paint on this

Just a little metal paint, powdercoat, or faff?

[nobby]

So, cosmetic/paint on this

Just a little metal paint, powdercoat, or faff?

That support bracket is alloy on mine. You may need a primer to suit from an auto store. Wilko do a good range of spray cans including Satin black that are easy to apply.

[fd3]

Do you reckon primer + spray or straight up spray?

Also, this:

Peeling paint or corrosion?

[Blodwyn Pig]

Wire wheel on a drill, then smooth hammerite, thinned a little.

[nobby]

It looks like corrosion from here but that isn't necessarily bad.
If it isn't bad enough to weaken the part I'd clean it up with emery cloth, spray with a base coat meant for aluminium (I think it is called a barrier coat), then primer and topcoat from spray cans.
There may well be, however, folk here with a lot more up to date knowledge than mine.

[MattH]

That's pretty much what I'd do. Looks like it's an aluminium part that is oxidising - so either an aluminium base coat (hammerite do a "special metals" one I've used before, though that was brush on only), or go full on bling and get it anodised/buy an anodising kit.

[fd3]

Sounds like £30 worth of paint ...

[MattH]

Yes - or just rub it down, spray it with smoothrite or plasticote, and accept it may need doing again in the next few years.

[nobby]

Sounds like £30 worth of paint ...

.... and you will have paint left over to do other bits in years to come if you store it properly.

[Nightmare-1]

Re painting the mudguard brackets.
I had the same problem on my ICE in 2016.
Wire wheel stripped primed and top coated with rattle cans from Halfords and they are still looking good in 2023.
Be gentle with the wire wheel as it will score the alloy if you use too much force.
4-5 fine coats of top coat gives a better finish than 2-3 heavier coats and leave it for a few days to fully cure before re-assembly.

For the mudguards blades I buy them direct from ICE at a reasonable price and they come pre drilled + have mud flaps fitted.

JMTPW:
I'd rather pay a little more for something that simply fits rather than saving a couple of £'s and having to modify/bodge it to fit.