Torque wrench ... ? nm value

[Gattopardo]

Norbar do some nice wrenches

[quixoticgeek]

I bought a big torque wrench of ebay. It takes a ⅜" socket, so I also got a ⅜" to ¼" socket adapter, and then a ¼" socket to ¼" hex bit adapter... Then in front of my bike when I went to use it the first time. I read the setting I needed (6Nm), looked at the scale on the torque wrench, and then realised I'd bought a wrench in Imperial units...

*headdesk*

Not deterred, I went to the googles and asked for a conversion, between units, only to then find that the minimum setting on the wrench was higher than the 5Nm I was trying to achieve.

On the plus side it has a lovely heft and I'm sure can serve dual use for hand to hand combat...

J

[robgul]

At long Itchington we would not have got my pedals off without a torque wrench due to tissue paper pedal spanners. BFO pedal spanner purchased since.

Don't quite understand that - a torque wrench has little to do with pedal removal - I think you're probably just referring to a BIG LONG wrench (which may or may not be torque) - the same effect can be gained with an ordinary spanner and short length of scaffold tube - it's just a longer lever that's required for more effect.

Rob

[Canardly]

Its the only way we could get the pedal off due to leverage of wrench and 6mm key being included in the set.

[Biggsy]

Its the only way we could get the pedal off due to leverage of wrench and 6mm key being included in the set.

You would have got it off if you had a non-torque wrench or extension as long as your torque wrench.  Of course it's academic when you've already got the torque wrench.

[Canardly]

I am trying to point out that torque wrenches have a range of uses and in this case got us out of a bit of a jam.

[Ham]

I'm reminded of the time I took the car to have a tyre changed in a fitting place where they deployed torque wrenches, nice large ones. The operative tightened the nuts with an air wrench,  then applied the torque wrench to its set point, then hefted it another 1/8th turn, just to make sure 

[P Walsh]

i haven't bothered so far with the torque wrenches, but always try to use standalone allen keys which provide very good feedback re torque. multitool keys only as a last resort.

I once cracked the alloy on a four bolt handlebar clamp plate using an allen key held with the thumb and three fingers, applying what I thought was gentle pressure. That's when I got a torque wrench. I use it on parts requiring 3-7nm. More beefy items that will not easily get stripped or cracked get the normal socket set.

If you use single setting torque wrenches you may need several.

[trekker12]

I am trying to point out that torque wrenches have a range of uses and in this case got us out of a bit of a jam.

I wouldn't have trusted the torque wrench after that. It would certainly need calibration.

[Kim]

I am trying to point out that torque wrenches have a range of uses and in this case got us out of a bit of a jam.

I wouldn't have trusted the torque wrench after that. It would certainly need calibration.

Surely only if it had been subject to more than its maximum torque, or encouraged with the Fine Adjustment Tool?

[Biggsy]

I wouldn't have trusted the torque wrench after that. It would certainly need calibration.

Surely only if it had been subject to more than its maximum torque, or encouraged with the Fine Adjustment Tool?

Agreed, and big long TRs typically go up to about 70 Nm - quite a few gorillas.

[Canardly]

Rose are offering 2-24Nm wrench for 36.95 euros atm.

[ElyDave]

At long Itchington we would not have got my pedals off without a torque wrench due to tissue paper pedal spanners. BFO pedal spanner purchased since.

Don't quite understand that - a torque wrench has little to do with pedal removal - I think you're probably just referring to a BIG LONG wrench (which may or may not be torque) - the same effect can be gained with an ordinary spanner and short length of scaffold tube - it's just a longer lever that's required for more effect.

Rob

I have a piece of tubing in my toolbox that has had multiple uses over the past
- a drift fro getting wheel bearings in straight
- extra leverage - came in very handy on my mates Landy that didn't seem to have had a change of tyre since it left the factory.  Took my bodyweight plus the extension.

This now reminds me to add a torque wrench to my list of needed tools.  Cone spanners this weekend

[robgul]

Rose are offering 2-24Nm wrench for 36.95 euros atm.

Mrs Santa robgul has placed an order for one (or rather I did on her behalf along with a pair of wheels and some other stuff .... well, you have to justify the delivery cost! - although there's free shipping until 13 Dec for orders >100Euros)

Rob

[Samuel D]

Rose are offering 2-24Nm wrench for 36.95 euros atm.

And Wiggle has seemingly the same tool (branded LifeLine Essential) for even less: €30.81 when the delivery destination is set to France (where I live). Seems to be £25 when the destination is the UK. Wiggle’s pricing shenanigans are pretty odd.

[dave r]

I have a Giant Tool Shed torque wrench for the small stuff, I have a habit of over tightening things, I've spent a lifetime doing manual labour and sometimes don't realize how hard I'm leaning on things, the torque wrench helps preserve the small stuff.

http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Giant-Tool-Shed-Torque-Wrench_59087.htm

[rogerzilla]

Bike torque wrenches are sodding expensive, considering they are smaller 

[Jurek]

Bike torque wrenches are sodding expensive, considering they are smaller 

Size (in this instance) isn't everything....
One is not related to the other.
Calibration (of anything)  = costs / lots.
Margin of error at higher  torques is wider = cheaper.
Margin of error at low torques = spend.
That's where all your carbon fibre, not-circular, esoteric components will strip your bank account in the interests of correct torque.

[KM]

Regarding loosening bolts using a torque wrench, my understanding it that the practice may well require the torque wrench to be recalibrated.  If you need an extension anything that can be pressed in to service is preferable to damaging an expensive piece of kit. 

You could argue that the force required to remove a bolt won't be greater than that required to fasten it in the first place, but suppose that bolt is stuck fast because it is rusted in place, or something unpleasant has happened between, say, an aluminium and a steel part (think pedal spindle and crank). 

Best to use a torque wrench to do its job of tightening up with accuracy.  Mine is the smaller of the two Park Tool torque wrenches.  Not cheap, but worth it for the reassurance it provides IMHO. 

[Gattopardo]

Bike torque wrenches are sodding expensive, considering they are smaller 

They are just torque wrenches, nothing else.  Just have to chose the one with the right range.

[Gattopardo]

I am trying to point out that torque wrenches have a range of uses and in this case got us out of a bit of a jam.

I wouldn't have trusted the torque wrench after that. It would certainly need calibration.

Surely only if it had been subject to more than its maximum torque, or encouraged with the Fine Adjustment Tool?

A torque wrench, click type, is basically a spring. You are supposed to turn till the click in a smooth a manor as possible.  Undoing things is more of lots of pressure and then release of the pressure with the movement of the fastener.

[Gattopardo]

Bike torque wrenches are sodding expensive, considering they are smaller 

Size (in this instance) isn't everything....
One is not related to the other.
Calibration (of anything)  = costs / lots.
Margin of error at higher  torques is wider = cheaper.
Margin of error at low torques = spend.
That's where all your carbon fibre, not-circular, esoteric components will strip your bank account in the interests of correct torque.

Margin of error is not so clear cut.  Having played with testing a torque wrench, i was surprised at the variance in the range but still with the acceptable tolerance as in the British standard.

[mattc]

I wouldn't have trusted the torque wrench after that. It would certainly need calibration.

Surely only if it had been subject to more than its maximum torque, or encouraged with the Fine Adjustment Tool?

Agreed, and big long TRs typically go up to about 70 Nm - quite a few gorillas.

Gorillas? Typical healthy male cyclist weighs around 70kg ( for easy maths!). Thats a weight of about 700N.

If he can lift his own body-weight, or simply stand on a wrench, it doesnt take a very long lever to apply 70Nm.

Smaller TRs will have even lower capacities; I reckon non-gorillas can bugger most TRs with a modest extension pipe

[Biggsy]

Regarding loosening bolts using a torque wrench, my understanding it that the practice may well require the torque wrench to be recalibrated.  If you need an extension anything that can be pressed in to service is preferable to damaging an expensive piece of kit. 

You could argue that the force required to remove a bolt won't be greater than that required to fasten it in the first place, but suppose that bolt is stuck fast because it is rusted in place, or something unpleasant has happened between, say, an aluminium and a steel part (think pedal spindle and crank).

Surely it would have to exceed the wrench's maximum torque setting, which may be greater than that required to fasten the bolt.  Anyway, on reaching your setting or the maximum, you'd feel the click and could stop and switch to another tool instead.  Doesn't that make sense?

[Biggsy]

Gorillas? Typical healthy male cyclist weighs around 70kg ( for easy maths!). Thats a weight of about 700N.

If he can lift his own body-weight, or simply stand on a wrench, it doesnt take a very long lever to apply 70Nm.

Smaller TRs will have even lower capacities; I reckon non-gorillas can bugger most TRs with a modest extension pipe

Ok, macaques, then.  70Nm via a 380mm TR by hand feels a lot to me anyway.  I wasn't talking about using an extension pipe.