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Help with frame related questions
ACyclingRooster:
--- Quote from: mrcharly-YHT on 02 March, 2016, 04:25:12 pm ---Aluminium is cheaper and sometimes lighter.
Carbon is usually expensive and lighter. Carbon soaks up vibration and bumps better than aluminium.
don't obsess over the material. Test ride some bikes and buy the one that feels right.
Close clearances are pointless, IMO.
I suspect you are associating them with snappy handling that feels fast.
--- End quote ---
Hi mrcharly. I personally have never ridden a Carbon frame - and my pension would not support such frivolous fashion.
Carbon is known for being a severe ride and very little kindly to the skeleton as a quality steel frame is.
Carbon is also known for sudden and inexplicable failures as it is also known for crushing if one is a little heavy-handed with Spanners and or Allen Keys.
Whether it be 531 single or double butted or even Columbus tubing - there is a comfort level that really does take some beating.
Rider weight and Saddle choice has a great-deal to do with rider comfort and as does bar/stem choice and the appropriate wrappings of bar-tape.
My road bike is a Steve Goff Columbus tubed - Designer Select - three different Columbus tubes chosen by Steve Goff for their particular attributes.
I have just built a Bianchi Via Nirone 7 Alu Carbon (Carbon Forks and Carbon Seat Stays) as a Flat-bar Road Hybrid on Campagnolo Veloce levers.
At almost 72yrs young the blend of 7000 Alloy and very little carbon is about as much as my old bones will tolerate on our crappy roads and with the comfort of the Flat-bars for a leisurely and upright ride.
Jack `o Newbury:
Help needed , shim material for Airnimal telescopic seat tube reducing from 30.2 mm to 30mm . I thought s/s sheet epoxy resin glued in , but can only seem to buy in China . Any thoughts ?
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kyuss:
So, on the way in to start my Deliveroo shift today this happened.
Cycling uphill and came to a stop at some lights and on starting off again got maybe 3 revolutions into it before the cranks wouldn't spin. Thought the chain had unshipped and jammed in the front derailleur but turns out a chainring bolt had snapped at some point and folded the chainring. The result is this....
A big gouge and a slight dent. Although the last photo there makes it look worse than it is, it's still looks fairly significant to my eyes. It's an aluminium Triban RC500. I'll get in touch with Decathlon tomorrow, but since they don't seem to sell framesets I'm not holding out much hope in getting hold of a cheap replacement and it doesn't seem like it would be a warranty issue either.
Am I right in thinking this frame is toast? Couldn't happen at a worse time. Do I chance it or just resign myself to the fact that I'll be budgeting for a new frame?
zigzag:
i'd ride it, but repair it too.
two wraps of ~5cm wide carbon fibre strip would keep the frame structurally sound.
icycle:
Hi all, I'm looking for a little bit of advice.
This is my second titanium frame that has cracked. The first was replaced under warranty by the supplier no quibbles (although it took over 7 months to get a new frame). The first time, the frame cracked around the holes for cable on the downtube - definitely a design fault which has since been addressed on the new frame.
The new frame has now cracked on the weld area between the headtube and downtube - just a small crack, which I spotted early on, but still a definite crack.
Does this look like it could be repaired (without an ugly weld), or is a replacement frame needed?
The supplier has however examined the frame and found a bit of wear on my non-drive rear stay.
It has a small dip into the rear stay when he rubs his finger over it - he's saying it's 'severe wear', I think it's more cosmetic.
Because of this however, this is their stance:
Even if our manufacturer can repair the head tube the seat stay has worn in such a way it now compromises the rear of the frame and we wouldn't want you riding a frame that we know is compromised at the rear.
My proposal is that we offer a replacement frame but as the current one can't be repaired due to the seat stay we would ask you to contribute 50% towards the cost of a new frame. We're happy covering the labour cost of switching all the parts or building up a new bike which is roughly £250 for a bike like this.
Surely the crack is the problem, if the crack can't be repaired (no matter if there is wear on the stay) the frame should be replaced - that's the manufacturer's error. If the crack can be replaced, then surely the wear on the stay is my problem, and if I decide it is just cosmetic, I could just keep using the frame. Obviously if it breaks at the stay, then it isn't the suppliers problem.
Any advice welcomed,
Thanks
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