Yet Another Cycling Forum
General Category => Freewheeling => The Dark Side => Topic started by: Phil W on 16 September, 2019, 06:27:19 pm
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Been looking at what tyres are available in 20" 406 size
Schwalbe Durano 28-406, 190g
Panaracer Minit Lites, 32-406, 190g
Schwalbe One 28-406, 200g
Conti Contact Speed 28-406, 295g
Kenda Kriterium 32-406, 325g
Panaracer Paselas, 37-406, 310g
Schwalbe Kojak 35-406, 230g
Schwalbe Marathon Plus 35-406, 560g
Conti Contact 37-406, 420g
Maxxis DTH 38-406 , 288g
Maxxis Gypsy 38-406, 406g
Schwalbe Marathon 40-496, 530g
Any others to consider? Those with 20" on front of their recumbents; what tyres have you fitted, and your impressions of them?
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If it is a two wheel recumbent I've found the Kojaks very good. Despite being slicks, quite tough and easy rolling. I have schwalbe marathons on the LWB tourer, Kojaks on my SWB recumbents for audax and day rides. I don't use a trike so can't comment on that.
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Over several years and various bikes:
Marathon (older version) 40-406: Does what it says on the tin. Hardly ever punctures. Good touring all-rounder with enough siping for non-technical off-road.
Marathon (the current version) 40-406: As above, but a liability on roads with a thin film of leaf chutney.
Marathon Plus 35-406: Indestructible (except for manufacturing defects and wire through the sidewall or similar), heavy, harsh ride compared to Marathon, bastard to fit. Good tyre for cold commutes and people who can't fix punctures.
Marathon Racer 40-406: Didn't give these an extensive test, but they seemed to combine the grip and rolling resistance of Marathons with the puncture-resistance of ...not Marathons.
Kojak 35-406: Light, grippy on tarmac (hopeless on mud), comfortable, cheap. Rolling resistance seems quite sensitive to pressure (at least on a trike). AIUI they're not as fast-rolling as you'd expect. Did I say cheap?
Durano 28-406: Good all-round road tyre. Rubbish off-road. Doesn't seem to puncture too often, and easy to change when it does.
Pro One 28-406: Fussy about rims, awkward to fit, fast, useless off-road. Not tried it tubeless. Only fits properly tubeless.
One 28-406: If you're planning to use a tube, you want this, rather than the Pro One. Much less arsing about to make them seat properly. Rolls well.
Big Apple 50-406: Cheaper and less effective than a front-suspension ICE trike, but makes a huge difference to comfort on poorly-maintained roads. Can't vouch for the rolling resistance because e-assist. Seems decent on gravelly stuff.
Silento 47-406: Low-end tyre I had on a folding BSO for a bit, reasonable off-road grip.
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Go-Cycles are appreciated in Germany
nu-Traks are cheap as chips and not bad in the dry.
Klaus had a Tioga tyre on his Quattrovelo and liked it
Scorchers for the fast amongst you, but they don’t live long.
I am really sad the Durano Plus is no longer available. i have 4 left in stock, then I have to find something else as good.
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Do the 406 Kojaks size at 32mm like the 622s, or are they a truer 35mm? (my mudguard is a bit too close for a 40, but my 28s have acres of space and I'm considering the middle ground).
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Panaracer Minits Lite are nice 406-32. More at the Contact Speed end, rather than Marathon Plus.
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Do the 406 Kojaks size at 32mm like the 622s, or are they a truer 35mm? (my mudguard is a bit too close for a 40, but my 28s have acres of space and I'm considering the middle ground).
Having had those on my recumbent sat next to my road bike with 32mm I'd say yes. But the road bike is tubeless on wide rims. I haven't been impressed with Kojak puncture resistance but suppose ok for summer.
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Panaracer Minits Lite are nice 406-32. More at the Contact Speed end, rather than Marathon Plus.
A summer tyre I presume? What's the rolling, puncture resistance been like, and how many miles you getting out of them? I do quite like the 32mm width of tyre for compromise of speed and comfort.
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Panaracer Minits Lite are nice 406-32. More at the Contact Speed end, rather than Marathon Plus.
I had a bad experience with the Minits Tough Version with 9 punctures in 1000 miles (compared with usual 1 puncture for 3000) so if the Lite are less tough than a Tough... :hand:
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We run 406 tyres on our Moultons for brevets and low rolling resistance is our priority. Puncture resistance and longevity is not. After 2000km on lightweight tyres, the rubber gets a bit thin for reliability. We ride other bikes in winter.
Minits Tough are shit tyres in just about every way and share nothing with the Minits Lite, other than their name
Duranos were dispiriting to ride and about half (4 or 5) had casing failures/ distortions. We gave up on them years ago.
Ultremos were a bit too skinny but quite fast. Conti Grand Prix was our preference before being discontinued, so Contact Speed is the current fallback.
A winter project is to set up some tubeless rims for 406 Schwalbe Ones.
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I run Schwalbe big apples :thumbsup:
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i wish schwalbe stared making a tubeless pro one in 406x35, it would be a popular choice among small wheel riders wanting to go faster. their current 28mm tyre is not practical for general use.
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I like tyres over 40-406 in size on my trike because I can run them a fraction softer than skinnier tyres and therefore deaden a little of the road buzz.
One tyre not mentioned so far, the 40-406 Tryker, fast and grippy but the softer compound does like to pick up glass/flint shards.
I run 42-406 M Supremes on the front of my trike, but they're made in that size anymore.
I'll probably swop to the 40-406 M Racer but may go back to the Tryker once I wear the Supremes out.
I like the 50-406 BA on the back, I tend to wear the back tyre out quickly due to wheel slip and I think the BA has the greatest depth of rubber before I wearout anything vital while still rolling reasonably well.
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I see you can also get Panaracer Paselas in 37-406 and 310g. So pretty light for the size, and somewhere between the light racy end and heavy duty bombproof end. No info on the tech in use, as in what's shown for Minits Lite and Minits Tough.
The minute lites are interesting as you could carry a spare tyre on a brevet and the all up weight is only 380g for both tyres.
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A winter project is to set up some tubeless rims for 406 Schwalbe Ones.
I'd be interested to see how that goes. I'm sticking with tubes when it comes to the recumbents. I'm coming to the view of having a set of tyres for the colder months and a set for the summer and / or long brevets.
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ICE Qnt,has Go-Cycle tyres 50-406 They just fit under the mudguards, had them on for 18 months now with no problems, Rear is Marathon 47-406.
Trice XL has kojak 35-406 on the front and 40-406 Marathon Racer on the rear.
ICE Vortex Fs has marathon 40-406 all round.
The Trice XL is the Lightest and Widest & fastest of them all and the rear AIR suspension is great.
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I use Durano folders on the Moulton. They are fairly hard work but have been reliable.
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Maxxis DTH 38-406 folder, 120 tpi. 290g.
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I've gone for some Paselas 37-406 for the front. Seem nice and supple and will see how they go.
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Interesting choice. No puncture protection belt? Might make it more comfortable. I'm very impressed with the 26" Pasela Protite which has some kind of belt, as does the Maxxis DTH I referenced (called Silkworm but no information as to what it is).
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It's for a front wheel and unless you go for marathon levels of puncture protection I'm not convinced the puncture belts make a big difference. Often it may just be the thickness of the rubber including tread or where you ride in the road. Having said that, back wheel (different size) will supposedly be a bit more robust type. Anyway will see how well it does.
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Have added my experiences:
Schwalbe Durano 28-406, 190g // durable, pretty quick, a bit harsh, narrower than I like (have pinch flatted)
Panaracer Minit Lites, 32-406, 190g // only 28mm in width, not durable
Schwalbe One 28-406, 200g
Conti Contact Speed 28-406, 295g
Kenda Kriterium 32-406, 325g
Panaracer Paselas, 37-406, 310g
Schwalbe Kojak 35-406, 230g // pretty good flat resistance, but not quick
Schwalbe Marathon Plus 35-406, 560g // can be hard to fit, not the most comfortable
Conti Contact 37-406, 420g
Schwalbe Marathon 40-496, 530g // original marathon was a good alrounder, Greenguard not as comfortable, feels sluggish
Marathon Racer 40-406, 340g good alrounder but not a lot of grip
Big Apple HS430 50-406, 495g comfortable but not a lot of grip with this newer tread
Scorcher 40-406, 3xxg, not very durable, too many flats
Maxxis DTH 49-406, 350g very sticky, lots of scrub
Maxxis DTH 38-406, 285g my favourite, good comfort
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Took Kim's advice a couple of years ago and installed Big Apples after suffering numb feet from road buzz.
They are great for comfort - and who cares about rolling resistance :-)
(Although rolling resistance is not bad - I run them between 40 and 50psi)
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Have added my experiences:
Maxxis DTH 38-406, 285g my favourite, good comfort
Looks interesting, and in the kind of width I like to run at the front. Thanks for adding.
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Found this Maxxis Gypsy in 38-406 which comes out at 404g, their equivalent of the puncture proof urban tyre I guess.
https://www.maxxis.co.uk/catalog/tyre-269-48-gypsy#
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Has anyone tried a Schwalbe Shredda or Shredda Evo on anything?
They seem to be available in 406 X 40, 44 or 50 in various places for sensible money and claim to be fast!
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Shredda can be very fast (at least in velomobiles) but puncture proofing isn’t so good.
I think they may no longer be made though.
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Whilst investigating winter cycling tyre options I came across
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/tour-reader/marathon-gt-365
It looks suspiciously like the same stuff that goes on with car winter tyres. You can definitely see sipes in that tread and it has a winter compound. Plus they do it in 406-40. So if you have a small front wheel recumbent you can add a winter tyre for more security.
Now who has it in stock?
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Whilst investigating winter cycling tyre options I came across
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/tour-reader/marathon-gt-365
It looks suspiciously like the same stuff that goes on with car winter tyres. You can definitely see sipes in that tread and it has a winter compound. Plus they do it in 406-40. So if you have a small front wheel recumbent you can add a winter tyre for more security.
Now who has it in stock?
It probabaly rides likes a brick with both those punction protection defences.
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Whilst investigating winter cycling tyre options I came across
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/tour-reader/marathon-gt-365
It looks suspiciously like the same stuff that goes on with car winter tyres. You can definitely see sipes in that tread and it has a winter compound. Plus they do it in 406-40. So if you have a small front wheel recumbent you can add a winter tyre for more security.
Now who has it in stock?
It probabaly rides likes a brick with both those punction protection defences.
Possibly but I’d only see it being used if a cold snap set in or snow on ground. So you’d could use that to stop front wheel slipping out, or decide not to ride instead.
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Finally fitted the Paselas for riding rest of the year. Much more supple and lighter than the Marathons. Now warmer and it’s not like I’ll be riding very far anytime soon so puncture delays will be a non issue. Be interesting to see how they ride.
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Paselas seen almost 5 months use now. Despite lack of puncture belt only a couple of punctures in that time. Unfortunately one was a fast downhill which led to some scrapes on arm and leg. Running them at 40 psi. They ride nice and I’ll probably keep them on till end of October / when the lanes get skoggy again. They handle light gravel reasonably well, though I would not try doing fast turns. Come November I’ll bung a 406-40 marathon back on the front.
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Paselas seen almost 5 months use now. Despite lack of puncture belt only a couple of punctures in that time. Unfortuna tely one was a fast downhill which led to some scrapes on arm and leg. Running them at 40 psi. They ride nice and I’ll probably keep them on till end of October / when the lanes get skoggy again. They handle light gravel reasonably well, though I would not try doing fast turns. Come November I’ll bung a 406-40 marathon back on the front.
Thanks for the update. The thought of a front wheel blowout on a bent fills me with dread. I can only remember one, which was with an old school Marathon, and fortunately I had time to recognise it and come safely to a halt. I've been running the Maxxis DTH folders on my trike (38-406) and on my Azub Origami (49-406) and have been very happy with the ride, the handling, and the lack of punctures so far. They are light but I can't say they are quick. I did a two week before after comparison with new Racers and they were 2% quicker but I was running them at 60 psi vs 45 psi of the Racers. TBH the new Racers with the deeper tread are pretty impressive.
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I have seen the Panaracer minit lite Are currently available in 32-406. So might be tempted to get one to see how they roll. Though I’d want a faster tyre on rear as well to get the full effect if there is one. For front I prefer wider on smaller wheel to deal with shit road surfaces of the UK.
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As to blowouts on fast downhill it doesn’t worry me as much as one would on an upright where head contact with a hard surface is likely. Scrapes to arms and legs in the recumbent case , whilst wanting to avoid, aren’t nearly as bad.
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As to blowouts on fast downhill it doesn’t worry me as much as one would on an upright where head contact with a hard surface is likely. Scrapes to arms and legs in the recumbent case , whilst wanting to avoid, aren’t nearly as bad.
When it happened to me, I ended up under the front of an oncoming car. Fortunately there was time for the driver to stop before I arrived there.
I counted myself lucky with the babboon arse and assorted bike/clothing damage.
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I have seen the Panaracer minit lite Are currently available in 32-406. So might be tempted to get one to see how they roll. Though I’d want a faster tyre on rear as well to get the full effect if there is one. For front I prefer wider on smaller wheel to deal with shit road surfaces of the UK.
Had a Minute lite. Only 28mm width and rather fragile.
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I had Minits Tough and they punctured the whole time - 7 in 1000km. Gave up with them. I used to go 3000km between punctures with a standard Marathon.
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Minits Tough is more puncture-prone and slower than Minits Lite. The Lite is not at Marathon levels of durability though. On our Moultons, we would replace Minits Lite around 3000km, sometimes a bit over 2000km. Some folk want something more bulletproof than that.
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Whilst investigating winter cycling tyre options I came across
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/tour-reader/marathon-gt-365
It looks suspiciously like the same stuff that goes on with car winter tyres. You can definitely see sipes in that tread and it has a winter compound. Plus they do it in 406-40. So if you have a small front wheel recumbent you can add a winter tyre for more security.
Now who has it in stock?
It probabaly rides likes a brick with both those punction protection defences.
Got them fitted at moment. Primary to see if they fitted before it got cold. They ride ok coming from a marathon, and although they are slower, no a disaster this time of year. Nice and grippy where the marathon would slip. Also decent on light gravel and mud. Nothing like the wooden feeling of Durano plus etc.
Not sure I’d want them on a 200 brevet, though did 120 yesterday and ok speed wise. Now turned cold, see how they go.
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Adding Conti Contact Urban 32-406 300g , wire bead to the list. Allegedly rolls as well as the speed but with better puncture protection.
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Now ordered the Conti contact Urban. Will fit sometime in March or April as we exit Winter and roads less skoggy and flooded. I did see the Contact Speed is available for £13.99 but could not bring myself to drop below 32mm width.
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Has anyone tried one of these?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tannus-Tyre-Aither2-20-X-2-0-51-406-Shield-Black/333782544750?epid=12017313993&hash=item4db6fd716e:g:30YAAOSw21pfqFKU
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What’s the nominal pressure they define for it?
Certainly for me I prefer my tyres to be at lower end of pressure range to give smooth front end on British roads. Haven’t notice any speed loss because of that. I suspect a solid tyre would be a little to firm, or possibly too spongy. But either way you are stuck with what they consider appropriate not you. For instance I might prefer firmer pressures on smoother French roads or even lower pressures on Irish west coast chip seal.
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I was looking for a tyre to use on the front of a semi-recumbent tandem, but according to the solid tyre manufacturer's specs, the max weight of the rider and bicycle must not exceed 150kg. So not possible unless my stoker and I lose 40kg or so (t'ain't 'app'nin').
The "equivalent tyre pressure" for this size of tyre is 80psi, which is way above my comfort pressure. On Marathon Touring tyres, we run at about 40-45psi.
According to the seller, they soften with use, and they are great!
But there are downsides-
Changing the tyre is a right royal PITA, so a broken spoke could mean the end of a ride.
They lack grip on wet surfaces.
They are not to be used on grass or gravel.
Sorry I even raised them as a possible.
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I was looking for a tyre to use on the front of a semi-recumbent tandem, but according to the solid tyre manufacturer's specs, the max weight of the rider and bicycle must not exceed 150kg. So not possible unless my stoker and I lose 40kg or so (t'ain't 'app'nin').
The "equivalent tyre pressure" for this size of tyre is 80psi, which is way above my comfort pressure. On Marathon Touring tyres, we run at about 40-45psi.
According to the seller, they soften with use, and they are great!
But there are downsides-
Changing the tyre is a right royal PITA, so a broken spoke could mean the end of a ride.
They lack grip on wet surfaces.
They are not to be used on grass or gravel.
Sorry I even raised them as a possible.
Is that the weight per tyre? For instance if 50/50 perfect load that gets you up to 150kg max per wheel.
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I have been tempted to put a "solid" tyre on the back wheel of my bent trike.
With the Rohloff and disk brake a puncture is a real PITA.
My main worry is how thick the rubber which makes up the tread is over the core.
I like the Big Apple tyre on the back wheel simply because it has a thick-ish depth of rubber before you get to anything vital.
This gives me twice the mileage out of a tyre verses something like a M Racer.
Plus I don't know how well it would survive any sideways forces on it due to the trike not leaning.
Luck ........ ;D
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Is that the weight per tyre? For instance if 50/50 perfect load that gets you up to 150kg max per wheel.
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No, it's the max all up weight of the rig inc rider. i.e. under exceptionally heavy braking, when the load can be entirely on the front wheel.
To bring it into perspective, my (non-dark side) CX bike has a maximum weight rating of 120kg.
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I have been tempted to put a "solid" tyre on the back wheel of my bent trike.
With the Rohloff and disk brake a puncture is a real PITA.
My main worry is how thick the rubber which makes up the tread is over the core.
I like the Big Apple tyre on the back wheel simply because it has a thick-ish depth of rubber before you get to anything vital.
This gives me twice the mileage out of a tyre verses something like a M Racer.
Plus I don't know how well it would survive any sideways forces on it due to the trike not leaning.
Luck ........ ;D
I don't think there's any danger of the tyre coming off through sideways, non-leaning, trike loading. Getting them on and off (difficulties) is one of the downsides. Possibly worth trying one in your instance.
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There is a famous picture* of Andy Pegg hurling a Windcheetah through the left-hander hairpin at Eastway with the outside front tyre** bent almost through a right angle without coming off the rim. Though if you treated them like that they didn’t last long; my grate frend Mr Sheen completely trashed a pair in about an hour of racing in spite of swapping them over during the lunch break.
* Someone remind me to scan and post it when I'm on the Proper Computer
** 32-369 Wolber-Moulton
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There is a famous picture* of Andy Pegg hurling a Windcheetah through the left-hander hairpin at Eastway with the inside front tyre** bent almost through a right angle without coming off the rim. Though if you treated them like that they didn’t last long; my grate frend Mr Sheen completely trashed a pair in about an hour of racing in spite of swapping them over during the lunch break.
* Someone remind me to scan and post it when I'm on the Proper Computer
** 32-369 Wolber-Moulton
I'd humbly suggest that if you're doing that sort of thing, you probably won't be considering solid tyres...
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There is a famous picture* of Andy Pegg hurling a Windcheetah through the left-hander hairpin at Eastway with the inside front tyre** bent almost through a right angle without coming off the rim. Though if you treated them like that they didn’t last long; my grate frend Mr Sheen completely trashed a pair in about an hour of racing in spite of swapping them over during the lunch break.
* Someone remind me to scan and post it when I'm on the Proper Computer
** 32-369 Wolber-Moulton
I'd humbly suggest that if you're doing that sort of thing, you probably won't be considering solid tyres...
Ah, I missed that proviso. I may post the picture anyway, 4 teh LOLZ0RZ.
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Just 4 teh LOLZ0RZ, Andy Pegg at Eastway, 1983:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51022587691_438636b425_o.png) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJG6HM)
Andy Pegg cornering (https://flic.kr/p/2kJG6HM) by Mr Larrington (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mr_larrington/), on Flickr
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I remember seeing a pencil sketch of that photo at the start of the chapter about ‘bents in Richard’s New Bicycle Book back in the day. As a callow yoof, I’d never seen anything like it before and my interest was duly piqued. Only took me the best part of 40 years to finally move to the dark side though...
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That photo was in one of the first ever bike magazines I actually paid for.
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“Bicycle”, September 1983 issue :)
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I remember seeing a pencil sketch of that photo at the start of the chapter about ‘bents in Richard’s New Bicycle Book back in the day. As a callow yoof, I’d never seen anything like it before and my interest was duly piqued. Only took me the best part of 40 years to finally move to the dark side though...
You must be looking forward to getting your bent out on a few ahdaxes as they return.
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You must be looking forward to getting your bent out on a few ahdaxes as they return.
Yes, definitely. I just need to build up my miles again as lockdown eases :) If nothing else, I’ve got a pile of perm entries from last year that I need to start working my way through!
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Back in Sep 2019 LittleWheelsandBig said: "A winter project is to set up some tubeless rims for 406 Schwalbe Ones."
How did that project go?
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It hasn’t started yet. I never decided which hubs in various existing wheels should be reused and so I never actually got the spokes and did the deed. All of the brevets that this bike is used for and all the associated travel has been postponed for another year, so it is hard to overcome inertia.
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This is at a bit of a tangent since it's for the folder and not the 'bent but since a lot of you seem to ride both and there must be a certain cross-over I'll keep it here.
I am looking for some lighter, faster tyres for the folder to do a bit of Eurovélo that I can see needing the SNCF coach lines 'cos they have stopped running trains where I want to go. No great mileages and not really off-road on the routes I am thinking of (I will keep the original Kendas for doing canal towpaths etc).
Looking at my cheap internet tyre supplier I have Conti Contact Urban which look quite sensible (but 25€ each :( ??? )
Marathon Racer (cheaper, 20€ but I am put off Marathons by stories of fitting difficulties)
Maxxis DTH dual compound (the rigid bead version and in 44 section, which suits me) 23€
Mitas Rubena Dom, incredibly cheap BMX racing tyre, in 44 section, 270g, folding bead 13€ on promo
Mitas Dom, even cheaper beginners BMX tyre, 400g, rigid bead, 7€
So who knows anything about BMX tyres? Are the Mitas tyres on such a big reduction because they're crap and someone wants to get rid of them? Should I follow the dictum "If the deal is too good to be true then it isn't (true)"? On the whole do BMX Flatland tyres work well on the road? The BMX tyres are 44 section, the other two closer to 40 and I would prefer bigger (the existing tyres are 47, i don't think a Big Apple would go under the guards, although it might.
Any comments welcome. I appreciate that most of the bents seem to be on something narrower and that my use is not for something serious like long distance brevets but better toget the right thing first time round (or at least avoid the huge mistake)
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Back in The Very Old Days some of the fast boys were using BMX race tyres with the knobs ground off. And the Tioga Comp Pool, which used consistently to be at or near the top of the lack of rolling resistance charts, was a BMX tyre. So this Unit would surmise that “BMX” is not necessarily synonymous with “crap”.
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IME COntis are harder to fit than Schwalbe and I have had no issues fitting MRacers.
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The only 406 tyres I've had problems fitting is the M+ due to the sidewalls being so stiff.
All the other 406 tyres I've tried (racers, supreme, plain M, BA, tryker, kojak) have more supple sidewalls and have gone on fairly easily.
So unless your rims are slightly oversize, I wouldn't really worry about fitting a 406 tyre.
Luck ....... ;D
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The only 406 tyres I've had problems fitting is the M+ due to the sidewalls being so stiff.
All the other 406 tyres I've tried (racers, supreme, plain M, BA, tryker, kojak) have more supple sidewalls and have gone on fairly easily.
So unless your rims are slightly oversize, I wouldn't really worry about fitting a 406 tyre.
Second this. The only ones I've had trouble with are Marathon Plus, and regular Marathon on one problematic rim (which threw me, as they normally go on without any drama).
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Back in The Very Old Days some of the fast boys were using BMX race tyres with the knobs ground off. And the Tioga Comp Pool, which used consistently to be at or near the top of the lack of rolling resistance charts, was a BMX tyre. So this Unit would surmise that “BMX” is not necessarily synonymous with “crap”.
I was under the impression that puncture resistance seem to be a low priority in the BMX tyre world.
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Back in The Very Old Days some of the fast boys were using BMX race tyres with the knobs ground off. And the Tioga Comp Pool, which used consistently to be at or near the top of the lack of rolling resistance charts, was a BMX tyre. So this Unit would surmise that “BMX” is not necessarily synonymous with “crap”.
I was under the impression that puncture resistance seem to be a low priority in the BMX tyre world.
I am not sure that it is not a consideration; after all you need to finish the race. The only BMX disciplines that I know of are the track racing (we have a couple of tracks in Limoges) and the bikepark stunting sort of stuff. But neither requires that your tyres stay up more than a couple of hours. I would be more concerned about fitting them since, given the treatment they receive, there might well be a requirement for being bastard tight on the rim and not coming off at the first excuse!
There was mention up thread of the Maxxis DTH but I am not sure which model (and narrower section , I think). I will return to look :facepalm:
Tioga tyres are still available and look promising if only they would quote the sizes in language I could understand - I would assume that fractional sections are 451 and decimal are 406 but that is only assumption - the site that I use doesn't quote them in ISO.
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Marathon Racers are, compared to the 'regular' Marathons considerably lighter, considerably faster, and (relatively speaking) made of cheese- a fast tyre with puncture resistance, not tough as old boots. I've had multiple punctures on them in both 700C and 406 sizes. Marathon Supremes are just as fast, tougher, and sadly no longer available in 406.
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Nutrak are fast and very cheap 20” tyres that my partner has on his velomobile. He likes them a lot.
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I have just fitted some schwalbe inpac tyres on my trice 1.95 s . Initial impressions are that they are light, fast rolling and grippy. I suspect that time will prove them to be puncher prone. I will report back :)
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Marathon Racers are, compared to the 'regular' Marathons considerably lighter, considerably faster, and (relatively speaking) made of cheese- a fast tyre with puncture resistance, not tough as old boots. I've had multiple punctures on them in both 700C and 406 sizes. Marathon Supremes are just as fast, tougher, and sadly no longer available in 406.
That sounds like the Marathon Racer is the tyre I should be fitting - longevity is not part of the mission requirement and I generally ride in a less agressively flat-prone environment than UK. However in the interests of science I will probably end up trying the lightweight Mitas tyres which will probably be made from well matured Camembert (not even tough old Cheddar!) and will shred in next to no time (at which point I will get a set of MR).
I have limited my choices so what is currently available on my preferred web supplier. Other tyres may be available through different sources or from this one at other times of the year but limiting the choice a bit makes decision making a bit easier.
Edit: Order passed. Only one Dom left in stock. I thought about an MR (or even a pair) but in the end the cheapskate won and the second is the standard Mitas Rubena. Makes working out comparisons a bit more difficult of course.
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I think on real world rough roads the difference a 406 tyre makes to average speeds is less than you think. I think the width does, the wider the better, reducing vibration and smoothing the road. I’m currently using a 32-406 Contact urban on front. Last summer I had a 37-406 Pasela on the front. I’m not convinced the latter is slower, and at its min pressure setting virtually eliminated vibration at the bars. So I might switch back to that soon enough or at least put it on for my longer rides. I bought two last year so have an as new one sitting in shed to fit. Last year’s one died after hitting a subsided drove road at night in the fens last year. In winter I stick a marathon green guard on.
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I think on real world rough roads the difference a 406 tyre makes to average speeds is less than you think. I think the width does, the wider the better, reducing vibration and smoothing the road. I’m currently using a 32-406 Contact urban on front. Last summer I had a 37-406 Pasela on the front. I’m not convinced the latter is slower, and at its min pressure setting virtually eliminated vibration at the bars. So I might switch back to that soon enough or at least put it on for my longer rides. I bought two last year so have an as new one sitting in shed to fit. Last year’s one died after hitting a subsided drove road at night in the fens last year. In winter I stick a marathon green guard on.
Width is one of the factors that makes me choose the Mitas (or eventually a Maxxis) over the Marathon or Conti options. I have 47-406 Kenda lorry tyres on at present, great in the woods (limited by rear mech ground clearance!) but I don't think a Big Apple for example would go under the guards. The tyres I am choosing are 44-406 with smoother tread profiles and more supple sidewalls. The Schwalbe and Conti options are 40-406.
Is this the one you are referring to as a Greenguard https://www.cycletyres.fr/pneu-schwalbe-marathon-endurance-twinskin-greenguard-764.html ?
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Is this the one you are referring to as a Greenguard https://www.cycletyres.fr/pneu-schwalbe-marathon-endurance-twinskin-greenguard-764.html ?
Yes, I have it in 406-40 and fitted from late October till March. Basically when I don’t want to be fixing punctures in the cold.
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I think on real world rough roads the difference a 406 tyre makes to average speeds is less than you think. I think the width does, the wider the better, reducing vibration and smoothing the road. I’m currently using a 32-406 Contact urban on front. Last summer I had a 37-406 Pasela on the front. I’m not convinced the latter is slower, and at its min pressure setting virtually eliminated vibration at the bars. So I might switch back to that soon enough or at least put it on for my longer rides. I bought two last year so have an as new one sitting in shed to fit. Last year’s one died after hitting a subsided drove road at night in the fens last year. In winter I stick a marathon green guard on.
I'm thinking of ordering a 42-406 Contact Urban for the front of my Nazca Paseo. I have a 49-406 Maxxis DTH at the moment but I'm finding it difficult to step over the frame and 7mm less height would be helpful. Also the 49mm DTH hums and doesn't feel fast. I have 38mm DTHs too but am tempted by the slightly larger Urban which also has a reputation of low RR. Anybody got them and if so, what do you think? Advertised weight is 360g.