Yet Another Cycling Forum
General Category => The Knowledge => GPS => Topic started by: andyoxon on 25 February, 2013, 02:16:24 pm
-
Sorry this is another 'first' question, but I don't possess either a smart phone or a GPS bike computer, and was thinking about getting something. So GPS or smart phone? Are the maps/performance comparable? Any good deals out there for say GPS bike computer units?
-
So GPS or smart phone?
This is one of the few areas where I could be quite emphatic - GPS.
Whilst a smartphone will work, for my money they have too many caveats and limitations - most notably battery life. I feel they're a compromise solution.
-
Depends on what you want to do with it.
Any smartphone will be fine with something like strava, endomondo or MMR. However, battery life is 3-4 hours max so if you need if for longer rides then GPS units will be much better.
So what useage do you intend to put it to?
-
Thanks. I guess I'd want something that would cover 'day' rides, so looks like a GPS bike unit then...
-
There is a GPS section on this forum
-
There is a GPS section on this forum
<moved> Thanks. I've never been here. :)
So just to ask... What's a good (minimum?) spec, type of mapping, to aim for in a GPS unit?
-
Depends on your budget and the use you want to put it to.
If you are wanting performance data off it - then the Edge models
If primary intersest is in navigation, then Etrex is more appropriate
.... but the functional boundaries get blurred when you go up the model range.
Mapping: I've been quite satisfied with OSM (free!) - others less so.
Garmin mapping is expensive (until you compare it with the cost of equivalent papaer maps)
Personal opinion is that OS Landranger style mapping, whilst familiar, is not the best for a tiny screen.
-
The best maps I have seen, by far, are Openfietsmaplite. The detail and clarity are head and shoulders above any other map I've used on my Etrex.
http://www.openfietsmap.nl/downloads/other-countries/uk-ireland to download the gmapsupp.img file of the UK and Ireland.
-
I am rapidly learning that not all bike gpses are as easy to use as Garmins. I recently bought a Magellan eXplorer 710.To say the interface is counter-intuitive is an understatement! It also deas not play well with the method I use of putting routes onto the sd card, it keeps seeing them as tracks, not routes. It also has a great loathing of circular routes.
Guess I will stick with my Edge until I either work this out or throw it out of the window!
-
Thanks all.
The best maps I have seen, by far, are Openfietsmaplite. The detail and clarity are head and shoulders above any other map I've used on my Etrex.
http://www.openfietsmap.nl/downloads/other-countries/uk-ireland to download the gmapsupp.img file of the UK and Ireland.
Could this mapping software be put on any unit? Any problems with units running 3rd party software?
-
It's not executable software, just map data. Those .img files are a standard format shared by the current and previous generation of mapping Garmin GPSes. Various people have created Garmin map images from the free (as in freedom, not beer) Openstreetmap data, with their own tweaks of what's shown and how it's rendered to suit different purposes.
Other than size limitaitons, compatibility isn't usually a problem - the maps should work equally well in all units (though some may be faster to render/route than others). The main drawback of OSM derived maps is that coverage can be inconsistent - typically *extremely good* in urban areas (down to marking the silly gates on Sustrans paths, and showing where the steps are on my local university campus), but for example country lanes that haven't been explored by an OSM geek may be absent. There can be subtle flaws in the routing data that mean a Garmin set to automatically find a route from A to B will go via point D because someone forgot to 'connect' the two roads at junction C. This is academic if you intend to follow a track 'manually' with the map as a backdrop (a preferred method on many audaxers).
Garimin's City Navigator maps are more consistent, and tend to route more reliably, but only really cover proper roads and may be more out of date than Openstreetmap. Their Ordnance Survey derived topo maps can be nice for walking, but less useful for road navigation - too much of the wrong kind of clutter makes for a crowded display.
I think it's fair to say that Openstreetmap is now "good enough" for most purposes, unless you're somewhere with really patchy coverage, or intend to mainly use the unit in idiot satnav mode.
-
Agree with what has been said about openstreetmaps. I have used a few and have settled with velomap as it seems to give the best routes suitable for me on my Etrex 20 though openfietsmap is better looking.
I have done a comparison of the 2 using Basecamp here http://medialoft.co.uk/basecamp.html
-
Nobody has yet answered my queerie about Bryton Rider 50T using OpenCycleMaps, so I guess if you don't buy a Garmin, you'll be excommunicated.
-
I have a Bryton as well as a Garmin but haven't seen your question.
As a general response, the Bryton was a bargain but it's connectivity limitations and restricted map options can be irritating.
-
I guess if you don't buy a Garmin, you'll be excommunicated.
It can happen if you buy a Garmin too. Some questions just seem to capture the imagination and some don't.
-
Nobody has yet answered my queerie about Bryton Rider 50T using OpenCycleMaps, so I guess if you don't buy a Garmin, you'll be excommunicated.
Not quite, and as far as I know there are a few Bryton users on here.
Quite simply put, though, the Garmins just work. To give an example, I went to Catalonia last year, had the routes all loaded into my Garmin Edge. One day I decided to change the route and looked how to do it on a paper map (1:200000 scale). I found the rough route and then went to the Garmin. I simply went through the menu, found the town I was heading for and hit "Route to here". Off I went.
I have tried doing something similar with my Magellan and ended up pulling my hair out!
-
I guess if you don't buy a Garmin, you'll be excommunicated.
It can happen if you buy a Garmin too. Some questions just seem to capture the imagination and some don't.
Or, some questions are answerable and some aren't ;)
-
Or, some questions are answerable and some aren't ;)
OT, I know but.... questions needn't necessarily be answered, they can invite discussion too! :)
-
What I liked about the eTrex was the ability to construct a route by marking waypoints. This could be done standing on a grass triangle. Not so the Edge ??
What I disliked about all of my Garmins was:-
‘Avoids’ set on Mapsource weren’t carried over to the handset when the map section was loaded.
Routing between waypoints on the unit wasn’t the same as routing on Mapsource.
Finally, a stretch of motorway near where I live was NOT designated ‘Highway’ and even when the handset was configured ‘By bicycle’, the routing took me on it.
My eTrex Legend went into the river Avon at Stratford, and my Edge 605 was sold.
-
My eTrex Legend went into the river Avon at Stratford
By design or misadventure?
I ask because I managed to launch an iphone over the Severn Bridge at Chepstow in the New Year. :facepalm:
-
I've had a bit of a poke about in what's available. What's the upgrade diffs between the G. eTrex20 & 30?
-
My eTrex Legend went into the river Avon at Stratford
By design or misadventure?
I ask because I managed to launch an iphone over the Severn Bridge at Chepstow in the New Year. :facepalm:
It had Stow on the Wold to Stratford upon Avon route programmed, which I thought was a suitable epitaph to the Midlands Mesh.
-
Ah right- not just a cold-fingered clutzy moment like mine then, a funeral at sea :thumbsup:
My effort was supposed to be a landmark moment for me - my first 100 mile ride, my first trip across from Wales to England on my bike. So I stopped at the bridge to take a photo. But it was cold and wet, my fingers fumbled the phone as I removed it from my pocket. On instinct I tried to catch it as it fell only bat it instead and watch helplessly as it sailed over the barrier and into oblivion. :-\
Still, at least the insurance payed out ::-)
-
I've had a bit of a poke about in what's available. What's the upgrade diffs between the G. eTrex20 & 30?
There's nothing vital missing on the E20.
The E30 has altimeter (which has some utility, but arguable how much) and electronic compass (which has almost no utility at all) and can communicate with a limited set of wireless accessories (heart rate, cadence - but if that sort of thing is of interest the Edge types do it better).
I did think the E30 had a mSD card slot whereas the E20 didn't, but I've been corrected on that one in another thread, apparently they both do.
I'd get an E30 for the altimeter and the related functions that go with it - but to be quite clear, the E20 will log 'elevation' just the same, but using GPS fixes.
-
I've had a bit of a poke about in what's available. What's the upgrade diffs between the G. eTrex20 & 30?
There's nothing vital missing on the E20.
The E30 has altimeter (which has some utility, but arguable how much) and electronic compass (which has almost no utility at all)
Disagree. The compass works well for orienting the display quickly and correctly when you're on foot (where GPS derived direction of travel is unreliable). How useful this is depends on whether you're going to use the Garmin on foot, and whether you have a brain with built in rotating-maps-to-fit-what-you-see functionality.
It doesn't achieve much on a bike, though.
As for wireless gadgets, I can see the appeal of an eTrex 30 with heartrate or cadence if you're into that sort of thing but don't want to faff about with trying to power an Edge. The wireless chipset allegedly allows you to transmit routes waypoints etc. between units, too.
-
If primary function is going to be navigation. what does the panel think about Garmin’s road classifications. What are ‘Highways’ and what ( in the UK ) constitutes a ‘Highway’.
-
I've had a bit of a poke about in what's available. What's the upgrade diffs between the G. eTrex20 & 30?
There's nothing vital missing on the E20.
The E30 has altimeter (which has some utility, but arguable how much) and electronic compass (which has almost no utility at all) and can communicate with a limited set of wireless accessories (heart rate, cadence - but if that sort of thing is of interest the Edge types do it better).
I did think the E30 had a mSD card slot whereas the E20 didn't, but I've been corrected on that one in another thread, apparently they both do.
I'd get an E30 for the altimeter and the related functions that go with it - but to be quite clear, the E20 will log 'elevation' just the same, but using GPS fixes.
But Edge brings the battery limitations to the table, and I'm not clear how they could be better anyway - I can have cadence / hr showing whilst I have the rest of my usual audax fields showing. What more could an Edge do?
-
I've had a bit of a poke about in what's available. What's the upgrade diffs between the G. eTrex20 & 30?
One vital difference for cycling is that the Etrex 30 will integrate with ANT+ sensors.
-
But Edge brings the battery limitations to the table, and I'm not clear how they could be better anyway - I can have cadence / hr showing whilst I have the rest of my usual audax fields showing. What more could an Edge do?
The Edge can do stuff like show your average heart rate and average cadence, or heart rate as a % of max, or heart rate zones. And it can do laps, and show your average heart rate for the current lap.
Plus you can set alerts, so it beeps if your heart rate goes too high or too low etc. Or more complicated workouts, where you can set a target heart rate for a length of time etc.
-
But Edge brings the battery limitations to the table, and I'm not clear how they could be better anyway - I can have cadence / hr showing whilst I have the rest of my usual audax fields showing. What more could an Edge do?
The Edge can do stuff like show your average heart rate and average cadence, or heart rate as a % of max, or heart rate zones. And it can do laps, and show your average heart rate for the current lap.
Plus you can set alerts, so it beeps if your heart rate goes too high or too low etc. Or more complicated workouts, where you can set a target heart rate for a length of time etc.
Ooh, I would like that!
Someone should do a hack of the firmware so that the Etrex can get all the 800 series function.
-
Someone should do a hack of the firmware so that the Etrex can get all the 800 series function.
And all the features from the HCx that went missing... :thumbsup:
-
Someone should do a hack of the firmware so that the Etrex can get all the 800 series function.
Agreed. I'd be happy with a 305 with more ride history storage and AA batteries!
-
Thanks. I guess I'd want something that would cover 'day' rides, so looks like a GPS bike unit then...
Another vote for GPS. Mine is currently not in love with the satellites and I have had to resort to my phone. The phone (Android) is no much for having my a fully functioning Garmin Edge 800, at least for me.
Hopefully my 810 arrives today.
Andrew
-
Someone should do a hack of the firmware so that the Etrex can get all the 800 series function.
Incuding all the crash'n'burn functions and the unique ability to run out of battery 2 hours before you stop riding.
-
I've had a bit of a poke about in what's available. What's the upgrade diffs between the G. eTrex20 & 30?
There's nothing vital missing on the E20.
The E30 has altimeter (which has some utility, but arguable how much) and electronic compass (which has almost no utility at all) and can communicate with a limited set of wireless accessories (heart rate, cadence - but if that sort of thing is of interest the Edge types do it better).
I did think the E30 had a mSD card slot whereas the E20 didn't, but I've been corrected on that one in another thread, apparently they both do.
I'd get an E30 for the altimeter and the related functions that go with it - but to be quite clear, the E20 will log 'elevation' just the same, but using GPS fixes.
There is something vitally missing on ALL Garmin handheld outdoor / cycling GPS enabled devices.
Its a piece of software which dissallows the device from going on roads with a 70 mph speed limit when switched to 'Bicycle' or 'Walking'. That's IF, and its a BIG IF, the unit and the mapping talk to each other in the same language.
"Garmin Topo GB, to the Edge 605, sounded like the braying of a donkey."
-
I've had a bit of a poke about in what's available. What's the upgrade diffs between the G. eTrex20 & 30?
There's nothing vital missing on the E20.
The E30 has altimeter (which has some utility, but arguable how much) and electronic compass (which has almost no utility at all) and can communicate with a limited set of wireless accessories (heart rate, cadence - but if that sort of thing is of interest the Edge types do it better).
I did think the E30 had a mSD card slot whereas the E20 didn't, but I've been corrected on that one in another thread, apparently they both do.
I'd get an E30 for the altimeter and the related functions that go with it - but to be quite clear, the E20 will log 'elevation' just the same, but using GPS fixes.
There is something vitally missing on ALL Garmin handheld outdoor / cycling GPS enabled devices.
Its a piece of software which dissallows the device from going on roads with a 70 mph speed limit when switched to 'Bicycle' or 'Walking'. That's IF, and its a BIG IF, the unit and the mapping talk to each other in the same language.
"Garmin Topo GB, to the Edge 605, sounded like the braying of a donkey."
So you mean if one is on a cycle tour and using the unit to plot a route..? Rather than downloading a route from PC and following it via the unit... My tomtom car satnav has an 'avoid motorways/highways' option in the prefs, but then I can't download a route map to it.
-
There is something vitally missing on ALL Garmin handheld outdoor / cycling GPS enabled devices.
Well of course ! ::-) Nothing is perfect, by design :facepalm:
;)
Its a piece of software which dissallows the device from going on roads with a 70 mph speed limit when switched to 'Bicycle' or 'Walking'. That's IF, and its a BIG IF, the unit and the mapping talk to each other in the same language.
"Garmin Topo GB, to the Edge 605, sounded like the braying of a donkey."
Try routing as a 'car' (but still 'avoid highways') - it might work better. Especially if (like me) you have an aversion to being sent down rough unsurfaced lanes.
Personally I find 'avoid highways' cuts out some roads that I would definitely want to cycle on, so I don't even use that - I just use 'car' and 'avoid unpaved roads'. Or in towns I might use 'delivery' (which isn't available on newer units).
It's possible too, that Topo is relatively crude when it comes to routability - that map has strengths which are generally not on-road ones.
-
It would take me all day to list the sections of road Garmin thought were ‘Highways’, which cyclists were legally permitted to use.
It would take me the rest of this hour to list the sections of motorway Garmin thought were suitable for cyclists.
-
I know - but my solution to that conundrum is to allow it to route along 'highways' (which may well be useful to me) but to not cycle past blue signs which say 'cyclists forbidden'. And to use sufficient intemediate waypoints that the situation doesn't arise - using Metroguide (a different map from Topo) I wouldn't trust the routing to take me more than, say, 15km between waypoints. Ever. I suspect Topo may not be quite as good as Metroguide in this respect (though much better in some other respects).
-
But Edge brings the battery limitations to the table, and I'm not clear how they could be better anyway - I can have cadence / hr showing whilst I have the rest of my usual audax fields showing. What more could an Edge do?
Take up less space and weigh less? Smaller/neater bracket?
The Edge 605/705 battery can be changed in less than five minutes, so a spare can be carried if needed. Not ideal for long-distance cycling, but we're not all long-distance cyclists here.
-
I know - but my solution to that conundrum is to allow it to route along 'highways' (which may well be useful to me) but to not cycle past blue signs which say 'cyclists forbidden'. And to use sufficient intemediate waypoints that the situation doesn't arise - using Metroguide (a different map from Topo) I wouldn't trust the routing to take me more than, say, 15km between waypoints. Ever. I suspect Topo may not be quite as good as Metroguide in this respect (though much better in some other respects).
IIRC, Metroguide wouldn't autoroute, so the F. Cooke 'stringer' method was used.
-
There's a hack for Metroguide, that gives it full autorouting functionality.
See Metrowizz (http://www.geodude.nl/community/content/view/15/31/) for a free version.
-
I met a bloke in the pub who said he'd been using metroguide v8 with the routing patch for years. He said MetroWizzz is incredibly long winded with special utilities and what not, and that there's a much better patch available which just flicks a couple of flags in the Metroguide mapset definition file so Mapsource can download routable maps to the GPS, business as usual. Apparently.
-
I opted out of that. I made a mistake by buying an Edge 605 and loading Topo GB, which was no better at routing round Coventry than a blind chimpanzee in New York.
-
I opted out of that. I made a mistake by buying an Edge 605 and loading Topo GB, which was no better at routing round Coventry than a blind chimpanzee in New York.
You're using the wrong maps.
Load the City Navigator maps, and all will be well.
-
Sorry, I am not prepared to lash out £200 until I've witnessed a Garmin construct a sensible route.
My idea of 'sensible' is 'By Bicycle' using any road that is usable by a cyclist. ie all roads except M ways.
Garmin routing seemed to err on safety. Nothing I could do could get it to generate the same routes as the satnav in my car configured to 'Bicycle'.
-
I have a an Edge 605 and Garmin City Navigator and free OSM and contour maps (combined one file). I use it on Car/Motorcycle mode for cycling. It recalculates the route when you don't go on a motorway that it tells you to go on.
The routing seems to be the same regardless of which map I've got turned on.
-
Or try some OSM maps designed for bicycle routing. eg VeloMap.
-
Sorry, I am not prepared to lash out £200 until I've witnessed a Garmin construct a sensible route.
audacious [ɔːˈdeɪʃəs]
adj
1. recklessly bold or daring; fearless
2. impudent or presumptuous
[from Latin audāx bold, from audēre to dare]
Where's your spirit of adventure! I thought you didn't want to know where you are going?
-
I tried out my Garmin eTrex20 lastnight to plot a route from my house to Edinburgh for work. First I set the route finder thingy to bicycle, and it routed me along the A90 off the Forth Road Bridge, a 3 lane near motorway which has well established and signposting which excludes pedestrians, bicycles, horse drwan carrages etc... I set the mode to pedestrian and the route remained unchanged. Funny as it set off from my house and in both cases found a long cut (opp of a short cut) round the back of my estate on a bumpy path through an industrial estate which I knew of already. So now I know not to use the 'where to' route finder on Garmin devices as it either routes me down a (nearly) motorway or on long convoluted overgrown paths instead or parallel along a quiet road.
I hate to say it, but whats crying out here is a partnership between Google and Garmin for route finding where, for instance, with a Wifi connection the device could use Googles pedestrian route finding online to find a safe route thereby reducing the processing overheads of the onboard cpu etc...
-
I’m sorry again, but that’s not good enough. Have the Garmin on ‘Car/motorcycle’ and allow highways, and it will try to put you on a motorway if the motorway is its version of a sensible route. Get to the motorway junction and there isn’t an alternative road except retrace the road you’ve just ridden down or the continuation of that road ahead as it winds off in the wrong direction to the Garmin route on the motorway. End up riding over five miles ( sometimes further ) while Garmin recalculates to get you to your destination.
I once tried riding to Shrewsbury from Cov. It took me to the M6. It recalculated and took me to the M6 junction at Coleshill. It recalculated and took me to the M6 junction at Spaghetti. It recalculated and took me to the M6 junction at IKEA Wednesbury. It recalculated and took me to the M54 junction north of Wolverhampton. It recalculated and took me to the M54 at Telford. From there it took me along the A5 trunk road with 70 mph trucks.
The route my car’s satnav suggested was Birmingham, Wolverhampton, Ironbridge and lanes to Shrewsbury.
In the end, I’d ridden twenty five miles ‘round the Wrekin’. ;D ::-)
-
Basically, you shouldn't allow the Garmin total freedom on routing.
You should prepare the route in advance, on the PC, setting intermediate route-points to force the routing where you want to go.
-
I was out with my club one Sunday going to the cafe at Broadway. I had a route installed. Half way, a decision was made we should not go to Broadway, but go to Jinny Ring instead.
"Wait here lads. I'll just pop home and sort out a route on my PC." ;D
-
I’m sorry again, but that’s not good enough.
You've already got the hardware. So what are you going to do? Enjoy it as best you can, or replace it with something that does more thinking for you?
Personally, I chose the 605 for a decent compromise between compactness, price and function. I didn't expect it to have the best routing. If you did, then you bought the wrong product.
-
Get to the motorway junction and there isn’t an alternative road except [...........]
Or use the map on the screen well before you get to the motorway junction and find an alternative road for yourself, then let the GPS auto-recalculate. I have mine set to display the map and the route instructions at the same time, so I can see in advance if the route is not to my liking.
I was out with my club one Sunday going to the cafe at Broadway. I had a route installed. Half way, a decision was made we should not go to Broadway, but go to Jinny Ring instead.
"Wait here lads. I'll just pop home and sort out a route on my PC." ;D
Or just ride to Jenny's ring, using the map on the GPS as required - unless you need auto routes for every bit of every ride, in which case you need a new unit.
-
I met a bloke in the pub who said he'd been using metroguide v8 with the routing patch for years. He said MetroWizzz is incredibly long winded with special utilities and what not, and that there's a much better patch available which just flicks a couple of flags in the Metroguide mapset definition file so Mapsource can download routable maps to the GPS, business as usual. Apparently.
I mentioned Metrowizz because it's free.
The downside is you have to invoke it each time you upload a mapset to the Garmin.
Metrogold is the better patch (it's a once-only registry change) and costs a few pennies. Same web link. Both patches effectively convert Metroguide into an unlocked City Select - very useful for households with multiple GPSs.
-
First I set the route finder thingy to bicycle, and it routed me along the A90 off the Forth Road Bridge,
Bicycle is simply not the best option. I know we'd all like it to be, but it isn't.
I have a an Edge 605 and Garmin City Navigator and free OSM and contour maps (combined one file). ...
The routing seems to be the same regardless of which map I've got turned on.
A rather fun thing I noticed recently - I had a map in which was basically Garmin Metroguide (routable, as above), but with a 'hole' punched in it around Heathrow - and OSM (routable) filling that hole** and overlapping a bit on all sides. Both maps displayed. I then tried routing to Heathrow T1 (off-motorway route) which of course involved crossing the join somewhere round Hayes way - it took fractionally longer than usual for the GPS to calculate, but the route it offered was fine, including across the join and where the maps overlapped. I was impressed.
** because OSM is far better around Heathrow, than the elderly middle-aged Metroguide which is missing T4 and T5 altogether.
-
Different maps route in different ways. The settings in the Etrex may not have the effect expected. As an example, Velomap gives the best cycling route if Automotive mode is used. I use my Etrex 20 to autoroute and find that this setup works very well. More here http://www.velomap.org/velomaporg/autorouting/
An experiment with different modes in Basecamp here http://medialoft.co.uk/basecamp.html
-
Different maps route in different ways.
Is this true on the Edge 605/705? (I haven't noticed it, but I haven't thoroughly tested). If so, yes, Ningishzidda should try Velomap, as you say.
I've got Velomap but haven't had much of a go with it yet. The colours are very different from standard OSM and City Navigator - which is confusing or nice, depending on your preference.
-
Sorry, I am not prepared to lash out £200 until I've witnessed a Garmin construct a sensible route.
My idea of 'sensible' is 'By Bicycle' using any road that is usable by a cyclist. ie all roads except M ways.
Garmin routing seemed to err on safety. Nothing I could do could get it to generate the same routes as the satnav in my car configured to 'Bicycle'.
You are asking too much of a piece of hardware.
I rarely ask my Garmin to find anything for me, and if I'm on a ride I usually have a paper map with me. I plot a track in Bikehike and then download it to the garmin and follow the breadcrumb trail. It saves getting a map out at every junction to remind yourself which way to go.
OK, if you want a machine to take all your navigation decisions for you, then you aren't going to get full stop. Surely, you decide where you want to ride your bike?
If I do want the garmin to navigate for me, I look at a reasonably direct route using the sort of road I want to ride on and then break it down into small sections, if necessary setting waymarks every two or three miles and navigating piecemeal.
-
Good thread. Are there any older eTrex to avoid* because they can't handle current mapping software e.g. Openfietsmaplite, due to screen/memory/processing power deficits..? I'm looking perhaps for a s/h one that will do the basics OK, e.g. allow routes on decent mapping software to be downloaded etc. Not so bothered at this stage about HR monitoring etc (though perhaps a bonus if it's there)...
* or recommendations :) eg. Legend/Vista Hcx?
-
You are asking too much of a piece of hardware.
To be fair, it's not asking much to want motorways excluded without all highways excluded. It's only expecting Garmin to understand cycling that is too much, sadly.
-
The maps will work on just about any Garmin that can take a memory card. So any of the Etrex Cx or HCx models would work.
The older models do have slower processors, which can mean that scrolling around the map can be a bit slow, especially in areas with lots of detail. Plus maybe slower to calculate routes. Apparently the processor on the HCx models is a bit faster than the Cx, though I'm not sure how much difference it makes.
Also the older models can only read a single map gmapsupp.img file. Which means its a bit more complicated use a combination of maps from different sources. You have to use software to combine all of your different maps into the one file. Whereas with newer models, you can just copy maps on separately.
Also the newer models support raster mapping, which means you can use things like OS Landranger maps, or your own scanned maps or aerial imagery. Maybe not very useful for road cycling, but sometimes nice to have as an option.
-
You are asking too much of a piece of hardware.
To be fair, it's not asking much to want motorways excluded without all highways excluded. It's only expecting Garmin to understand cycling that is too much, sadly.
Yes, that's basicslly correct.
But this is an issue with the maps, not the hardware.
The City Navigator maps are basically road maps aimed at motorists.
Where the roads co-incide with the cycle routes, they work well.
Where the cycle routes deviate from the car-roads, then generally fail.
Examples:
Forth Road Bridge.
The maps don't know about the cycle-way, and route you onto the main road, the A90.
The Barmouth Bridge ( onthe BCM600 ).
The maps don't know there's a cyclway, and try to route you via a massive diversion.
You need to pre-plan the route on the PC, and inspect where the route is going to take you. You need to be prepared to deviate from the route at certain points. Having a track displayed underneath the route will help you see where these deviations are.
-
The maps will work on just about any Garmin that can take a memory card. So any of the Etrex Cx or HCx models would work.
The older models do have slower processors, which can mean that scrolling around the map can be a bit slow, especially in areas with lots of detail. Plus maybe slower to calculate routes. Apparently the processor on the HCx models is a bit faster than the Cx, though I'm not sure how much difference it makes.
Also the older models can only read a single map gmapsupp.img file. Which means its a bit more complicated use a combination of maps from different sources. You have to use software to combine all of your different maps into the one file. Whereas with newer models, you can just copy maps on separately.
Also the newer models support raster mapping, which means you can use things like OS Landranger maps, or your own scanned maps or aerial imagery. Maybe not very useful for road cycling, but sometimes nice to have as an option.
Thanks.
re. maps from different sources - what would be the main reason/purpose for wanting to combine different maps..?
-
re. maps from different sources - what would be the main reason/purpose for wanting to combine different maps..?
Each map has better detail than the other maps in different areas or types of places, so you select the best map for the place. "Combining" here means combining maps into single files; they're still selectable as individuals on the device. Also you can lay a contour map over another map.
-
I’m sorry again, but that’s not good enough. Have the Garmin on ‘Car/motorcycle’ and allow highways, and it will try to put you on a motorway if the motorway is its version of a sensible route. Get to the motorway junction and there isn’t an alternative road except retrace the road you’ve just ridden down or the continuation of that road ahead as it winds off in the wrong direction to the Garmin route on the motorway. End up riding over five miles ( sometimes further ) while Garmin recalculates to get you to your destination.
I once tried riding to Shrewsbury from Cov. It took me to the M6. It recalculated and took me to the M6 junction at Coleshill. It recalculated and took me to the M6 junction at Spaghetti. It recalculated and took me to the M6 junction at IKEA Wednesbury. It recalculated and took me to the M54 junction north of Wolverhampton. It recalculated and took me to the M54 at Telford. From there it took me along the A5 trunk road with 70 mph trucks.
The route my car’s satnav suggested was Birmingham, Wolverhampton, Ironbridge and lanes to Shrewsbury.
In the end, I’d ridden twenty five miles ‘round the Wrekin’. ;D ::-)
You are Ayesha AICMFP
Same old same old...
-
Thanks.
re. maps from different sources - what would be the main reason/purpose for wanting to combine different maps..?
On the newer models such as Etrex 20/30, several maps can be installed and used individually or as an overlay. For example, on my E20 I have OSM, Velomap, OFM and Birdseye installed. For cycling, I disable all maps except Velomap and Birdseye (which has no routing functions). This ensures that the device routes suitably for my cycling. If walking, I use OSM and get suitable routes.
The key is that it is the map which effects the routing. If more than one 'routing' map is enabled, results may be less than desirable.
-
You are asking too much of a piece of hardware.
But asking for what the product is designed for is reasonable. My Etrex 20 does exactly what I require including autorouting for bicycle BUT it has been a learning curve. I am now convinced that it is the installed map which is the key to this. Velomap works for me, others prefer OFM.
-
I've just downloaded and installed Velomap for Great Britain. I launched it and zoomed into my local area but only A roads are shown??? I thought it was as detailed as OSM or Openfeits??
-
I've just downloaded and installed Velomap for Great Britain. I launched it and zoomed into my local area but only A roads are shown??? I thought it was as detailed as OSM or Openfeits??
It may just be your area, or your detail settings, or your device playing up. Velomap has more detail than OSM at some bits I've looked at (post boxes, for example). Turn it off and on again, detail level up one, and scroll about.
-
Sorry I haven't been able to find the download for the GPS yet. I installed some executable which appears to be a simple form of planning on my PC...
I'm looking through the website for a link to the image file.
-
Ah I have two Garmin directories, one for my Garmin device (which I was looking at 'Training Centre') and one for Velomap. Velomap directory appears to have loads of image files??? I'm new to this eTrex 20 device and have Openfeits and OSM maps on my microSD card. I assumed Velomap would be another single map file?
Readme file!! Great...
-
Velomap .exe file for Great Britain:
http://www.velomap.org/donate/odbl/download_great_britain_en.html
-
An easy way of managing maps for your Etrex (and other Garmins) is to use Basecamp. It is not the quickest way to install maps onto your device, but it a more understandable process. Instructions here http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=70581&hilit=maps&start=30#p608771
-
Hi
I have copied over osm, openfarts ;-) and velomap. I think I prefer osm but will keep velomap on, as its good for route finding. I was thinking that they might have vastly different looks but I guess they are all just slightly different tweeks of the original.
I do like OS maps but I think its way too expensive for my liking.
-
Hi
I have copied over osm, openfarts ;-) and velomap. I think I prefer osm but will keep velomap on, as its good for route finding. I was thinking that they might have vastly different looks but I guess they are all just slightly different tweeks of the original.
I do like OS maps but I think its way too expensive for my liking.
One affordable solution if you would prefer OS maps is to purchase Birdseye https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=86339 for a specific area. This gives an OS map overlay to your installed routing map be it OSM OFM or Velomap. The overlay has no routing capabilities so does not affect the autorouting of your enabled map. The result is a zoomable high quality OS map image.
If buying an Etrex, some models ship with a £20 Birdseye voucher.
-
If I was to get an eTrex 20 - is this mount any good? http://www.buybits.com/Product/15559/Garmin-Etrex-10-20-30-Locking-Strap-Golf-Trolley-Mount-sku-15559.aspx
If not - which is best regarded?
-
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Garmin-Bike-Mount-Colorado-Oregon/dp/B0012MI7QE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1362321690&sr=8-1 Is the official one. I'm using two of those with an eTrex 30. It's secure and unlike the older eTrex bike brackets, can be attached to a vertical tube (eg. stem).
-
You can still buy brand new Garmin Edge 705 units on ebay for £188, absolutely incredible value. I use OSM and have never had a problem navigating. From cities to Dartmoor.
-
How do you find the battery life on the 705?
-
How do you find the battery life on the 705?
The quoted length of 15 hours is about right for a new/decent condition battery- like all rechargeables, it'll go eventually, but replacements are pretty cheap and easy to fit, not long replaced the one in mine. Obviously that will depend on use- cane the backlight, flip between screens a lot, and have turn-by-turn directions on for 200k, and it'll be rather less. For long runs a USB battery pack of some kind is a good idea (I use ones that take two or three AAs).
-
How do you find the battery life on the 705?
I used mine on a 200k yesterday in navigation mode and it was on from 7.30am until 6.30pm with still half battery remaining. So, not bad.
-
Is a unit like the eTrex Vista Hcx only for mapping functions or can one get speed/distance output totals etc? Just wondering if it's only the Edge that has the overlap with what one would get off the normal non-GPS bike computer?
-
Any of the Etrex models will tell you your speed, average speed, max speed, distance, elapsed time, moving time, time of day, elevation etc.
So just about everything that a bike computer will do (except cadence/heart rate, only the Etrex 30 does that).
-
Any of the Etrex models will tell you your speed, average speed, max speed, distance, elapsed time, moving time, time of day, elevation etc.
So just about everything that a bike computer will do (except cadence/heart rate, only the Etrex 30 does that).
Excellent thanks.
-
You get speed/distance etc with all models based on GPS info anyway, but only a limited number have direct sensor inputs (Edge 705 and 800?).
Note that the Edge 605 DOESN'T have non-GPS speed and cadence, nor an electronic compass, but is otherwise the same as the 705.
-
(except cadence/heart rate, only the Etrex 30 does that).
If you buy or have the required ANT+ sensors
-
Another option, if you want added versatility are the handheld units like my Oregon 450T which I've used walking, cycling, driving (in Furrn parts)
The thing which you will probably have gathered from all these comments is that there is a bit of a learning curve getting to use it to its best effect, no matter which unit you get. Sure, you can use them to good effect out the box, but their usefulness increases the more effort you put into to getting to know it.
As far as routing is concerned, here's a radical thought: you are on a bicycle. You can choose which roads you ride on, you don't have to ride on the M1 EVEN if the GPS tells you to. Trufact.
With a flexible unit (I can only speak for my Oregon but many others will do this) you can set the endpoint then zoom to see the likely route, zoom into the map and then just ride. If you really want to, you can set waypoints at places: towns, road junctions, POIs and just route to those. If you come across a road you don't want to ride..... you just don't.
You've got a route you want to detour somewhere else, just do it. You want to get back to your route, look at the map, drop a waypoint and head for it.
If you expect to have a bike GPS work like a car GPS but for bikes, you will be sore disappointed. It stands to reason that unless the quality of each road or track is ridden and assessed (and never subsequently changes) it will be impossible for routing GPS to work properly for bikes, get over it. Let's face it, most car GPS won't work well for HGVs. If you expect your bike GPS to provide flexibility to keep you rolloing with a smile on your face knowing you always know where you are, it will do that.
-
Well I went for an eTrex Vista Hcx in the end. I've ordered a bar mount (£7), which I may fettle (as others here) to place on the stem sitting on something shock absorbent. But apparently some tape in the mount will prevent rattling of the unit.
So it takes AA batteries - will probably use NiMH. If the batteries need changing mid ride - is this possible?
Also any info on the software to combine maps that Fuaran mention may be needed?
What format of route file needs to be saved for the Hcx?
Cheers
Andy
-
Well I went for an eTrex Vista Hcx in the end. I've ordered a bar mount (£7), which I may fettle (as others here) to place on the stem sitting on something shock absorbent. But apparently some tape in the mount will prevent rattling of the unit.
So it takes AA batteries - will probably use NiMH. If the batteries need changing mid ride - is this possible?
Also any info on the software to combine maps that Fuaran mention may be needed?
What format of route file needs to be saved for the Hcx?
Cheers
Andy
I doubt you'll be able to change batteries mid-ride without saving & reloading data, but an external USB power source would keep it running (unlike the Edge, it won't charge the batteries).
-
I agree with Ham. Although it is annoying, there is a learning curve involved with everything. Take the Edge 705 I have, for instance. Select an endpoint, select route. If in parts furrin it doesn't necessarily understand that some roads are just not for cyclists (especially if your maps are out of date). So go old school, start the route by using a paper map, avoiding the major routes, where bikes are not allowed. Eventually you get to a point where the GPS unit gives up and allows you to go your way. You can almost hear it sigh is disgust. GPS units should be treated like maps, or recipes. They are a suggestion as to the way to go, not a "set in stone" route that you must follow at all costs. Start thinking like that and you will get the most out of your GPS.
-
Well I went for an eTrex Vista Hcx in the end. I've ordered a bar mount (£7), which I may fettle (as others here) to place on the stem sitting on something shock absorbent. But apparently some tape in the mount will prevent rattling of the unit.
So it takes AA batteries - will probably use NiMH. If the batteries need changing mid ride - is this possible?
Also any info on the software to combine maps that Fuaran mention may be needed?
What format of route file needs to be saved for the Hcx?
Cheers
Andy
I doubt you'll be able to change batteries mid-ride without saving & reloading data, but an external USB power source would keep it running (unlike the Edge, it won't charge the batteries).
No, you can change the batteries whenever you want (or switch the unit off in the caff) and the only effect will be to put an artificial break in any tracklog you are recording. No big issue at all - it will still be just the one tracklog file, and it is easy to edit the track segments out on a PC if should need to do so. Otherwise, when you switch back on it should start up where you left off.
I'll leave the other questions for others to answer more precisely than I can.
-
Well I went for an eTrex Vista Hcx in the end. I've ordered a bar mount (£7), which I may fettle (as others here) to place on the stem sitting on something shock absorbent. But apparently some tape in the mount will prevent rattling of the unit.
So it takes AA batteries - will probably use NiMH. If the batteries need changing mid ride - is this possible?
Also any info on the software to combine maps that Fuaran mention may be needed?
What format of route file needs to be saved for the Hcx?
Cheers
Andy
I doubt you'll be able to change batteries mid-ride without saving & reloading data, but an external USB power source would keep it running (unlike the Edge, it won't charge the batteries).
No, you can change the batteries whenever you want (or switch the unit off in the caff) and the only effect will be to put an artificial break in any tracklog you are recording. No big issue at all - it will still be just the one tracklog file, and it is easy to edit the track segments out on a PC if should need to do so. Otherwise, when you switch back on it should start up where you left off.
I'll leave the other questions for others to answer more precisely than I can.
Yes I have an old eTrex I sued to use (no mapping function) and when I stopped to change batteries the GPX track had not break. There must be some internal button battery which is used to save preferences etc.. as well as minimal data for when changing batteries.
-
I suspect it's not as sophisticated as that. When you turn it back on it just starts again. It knows where you are (obviously!) and just carries on to the next routepoint. The unit will only produce one tracklog file per calendar day however often you start and stop the device. With each part defined as a track segment within that file.
-
Let's face it, most car GPS won't work well for HGVs.
Agreed, but fortunately my Etrex works much better than my Truckmate GPS ::-)
-
Well I went for an eTrex Vista Hcx in the end. I've ordered a bar mount (£7), which I may fettle (as others here) to place on the stem sitting on something shock absorbent. But apparently some tape in the mount will prevent rattling of the unit.
The tape is quite important - to reduce any rattle between the GPS and the mount, which is the main source of some unreliability.
Stem mounting is a bit problematic unless you're lucky enough that it sits at the right angle for you.
So it takes AA batteries - will probably use NiMH. If the batteries need changing mid ride - is this possible?
Unless you're in the habit of not recharging your batteries - they won't run down mid-ride. Good ones can last 30+ hours in an Etrex. Carry a (cased) pair of lithiums as spares because they weigh little and have good storage life - like carrying a tyre boot you'll never need.
Changing bats takes about 20 secs and there is no data loss.
-
(except cadence/heart rate, only the Etrex 30 does that).
If you buy or have the required ANT+ sensors
Except that - according to posts elsewhere on yacf - there seems to be an issue with having separate speed/cadence sensors, whereas the combined one works (allegedly) - which is a bit rubbish for a recumbent.
The old-stylee-old-Polar-like Garmin HRM works fine tho' - the later soft strap version with a rectangular podule on the middle seems to have some issues (IIRC fixed by using just the strap section of the equivalent Polar in the case of dropouts)
http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2010/08/solution-to-heart-rate-dropoutsspikes.html
http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2012/08/how-to-fix-heart-rate-strap-chaffing.html
-
Except that - according to posts elsewhere on yacf - there seems to be an issue with having separate speed/cadence sensors, whereas the combined one works (allegedly) - which is a bit rubbish for a recumbent.
My only experience of such sensors is using a Bryton with a combined sensor and a HRM sensor. I note from the Etrex manual that the unit will only record HR and Cadence. It may be that the unit would not be able to match up with a speed sensor?
-
but ... but ... but ... ???
A friend of mine disconnects his van speedo for 10 months of the year, to keep the 'clocked' mileage down (!!) - uses his satnav to display the speed.
-
My only experience of such sensors is using a Bryton with a combined sensor and a HRM sensor. I note from the Etrex manual that the unit will only record HR and Cadence. It may be that the unit would not be able to match up with a speed sensor?
Sorry - yes, that's correct - as I understand it, it's that you have to you have to use the combined sensor, rather than the neater and less expensive cadence-only sensors available from other manufacturers.
-
You can make combined maps using Mapsource (which comes when you buy any Garmin map, or can be installed free at a pinch) or, I'm told, Basecamp.
For example, if you had bought a map on DVD such as City Select, which gives you an installation of Mapsource. Then you download some OSM mapping as a 'Mapsource installer' from such as http://garmin.openstreetmap.nl/ (http://garmin.openstreetmap.nl/) - you'll end up with Mapsource on the desktop switchable between the 2 maps. You can then select 'tiles' from both those maps (or as many as you have available - I have about 12!), and connect the GPS and 'transfer map' and hey presto you have a combined map on the mSD card, with options to switch maps on and off via the GPS menus. (If it's a big map (slow to compile) it may be worth copying it back onto HD for future use, rather than recompiling.)
See for example here (http://www.aukadia.net/gps/lwg_14.htm) for ways to add a contours overlay (rather an old page now, but I think it all still holds good).
-
You can make combined maps using Mapsource (which comes when you buy any Garmin map, or can be installed free at a pinch) or, I'm told, Basecamp.
For example, if you had bought a map on DVD such as City Select, which gives you an installation of Mapsource. Then you download some OSM mapping as a 'Mapsource installer' from such as http://garmin.openstreetmap.nl/ (http://garmin.openstreetmap.nl/) - you'll end up with Mapsource on the desktop switchable between the 2 maps. You can then select 'tiles' from both those maps (or as many as you have available - I have about 12!), and connect the GPS and 'transfer map' and hey presto you have a combined map on the mSD card, with options to switch maps on and off via the GPS menus. (If it's a big map (slow to compile) it may be worth copying it back onto HD for future use, rather than recompiling.)
See for example here (http://www.aukadia.net/gps/lwg_14.htm) for ways to add a contours overlay (rather an old page now, but I think it all still holds good).
Thanks for this - sorry I had moved my query about map merging for older units, to a new thread... (but have deleted that now)
-
Can I join in asking for help please? I explored this a while ago and then decided to stick with paper maps and basic wired cycle computers for the time being. Things have changed(think building work, things stored carefully away and box with all bike computers and connectors went in trash in error :facepalm:) and I'm back to this and still struggling to get my head round it. So I'm going to ignore maps for the time being as it seems to be a separate area to the units. If I go with a GPS I expect many future hours sussing out maps and options and routing. So:-
1. if I go GPS then I'd like to do away with any need for other cycle computers and just have multiple bike mounts
2. am I right in thinking I no longer need wheel sensors etc?(see told you I was thick on this stuff)
2. I have no interest in fancier personal data like cadence and heart rate
3. a lot of the riding it would only be used to record speeds and times which I keep separately so a running odometer isn't a requirement
4. I'm not averse to the idea of a two unit solution
How does this sound? - getting an Edge200, or better, to use as a general computer and putting a mount for it on each bike. That would cover my short term needs for replacing existing stuff. Price wise this seems not much different to needing to get new computers and or multiple new bike mounts. Then I get something much fancier for more adventurous riding and I'm thinking Etrex/Dakota/Oregon/Montana here. Get one bike mount for that and transfer between bikes as the need arises, I'd like this unit to perform quite well offroad and walking as well as on bike.
The final part of my devilish plan will be to enlist some training help on mapping with the enticement of a ride including food and drink.
-
If you don't want cadence/heart rate etc., just "how fast am I going", "where have I gone" and "where am I going", then just the eTrex/whathaveyou will do you fine - no need for a bike-focused Edge.
-
If you don't want cadence/heart rate etc., just "how fast am I going", "where have I gone" and "where am I going", then just the eTrex/whathaveyou will do you fine - no need for a bike-focused Edge.
Did cross my mind but I'm really unsure on where I'm going in that direction, apologies for the pun. I can get the Edge200 with all the bike mounts I need for about £100. Whereas I'm not so sure about using a bigger, officially handheld unit, for my everyday stuff plus I haven't decided which one yet. Being me I may even never reach a final decision on the full unit but I do need a computer now....if that makes sense.
-
2. am I right in thinking I no longer need wheel sensors etc?
Yes, if you are happy for the distance to be measured by GPS. GPS won't measure every wobble and micro-turn you make like a normal cycle computer would. If you don't mind that, then just about any GPS unit will do what you say you want.
Next step: decide on size, weight, bracket type, price, battery life.
I don't know if still available new, but you might like a Garmin Edge 605. It's the same as the 705 but without wheel and cadence inputs and electronic (non GPS) compass. Otherwise look at the eTrex range and other makes and models.
-
ah, for the full deal I really fancy one of the non cycling handhelds, I think I should have phrased my original post better. I was more thinking whether a 200 would work as a multi bike basic computer and it seems it would, extra brackets are cheap as well. I know it works out a little pricier but it's worth it to me to do away with wires and sensors. I don't need super accurate training info I just like a rough comparative analysis and the info it displays when riding is all I ever looked at on my previous computers. I did consider the 810 but it's too much of a cycle computer for my needs and not enough of a GPS, if that makes sense. Which is why I got to my 2 unit solution.
-
Well the itchy finger was scratched and I have a 200 winging its way to me along with extra mounts, so that sorts out a new bike computer for me.
I will immerse myself in jargon and reviews around the handheld offerings before I seek further help on that choice. I think I'm just too clueless to make decent use of the info offered as yet.
-
I decided all I needed was "Which way should I go?" and "When will I get there?", so I dumped Garmin.
-
Ah, a dump.
-
I tried to read this whole thread I really did.
Ok, so what _I_ want is a head unit with a touch screen about the size of an iPhone 5 that will take inputs from a Hrm, cadence sensor and a wheel sensor (I'd like power, but the rholoff hub and planned Speed Drive exclude it) with GPS and OS mapping (or at least OS standard of mapping). I want to be able to turn off levels of detail and increase font size to allow for the screen real estate and my ageing eye sight. I want routing controls to be able to turn off specific road types (eg motorways, dual cartridge ways ferries ect) I'd like to be able to select areas to avoid, specific roads to avoid, and the option to choose transport modes/mixed transport modes. Ideally I should be able to plan a route on my mac before is set off, alter the route while out on the head unit or my iPad. It should be able to record my heart rate, speed and cadence along with my route, altitude and calculated gear. It should be switchable between navigation modes such as turn by turn, overview, direction, waypoints so I can use it to,walk cycle motorcycle or car. It should be weather proof. And finally I should be able to charge it from 240/110 ac supply, a 12v supply, a SON hub or a solar panel. Oh and of course I should be able to get updates to the map data without a) losing any of my route data or journey data and b) breaking the bank.
Have I missed anything?
Ok, so although i know that the above IS technologically possible, I also know that is unlikely just at the moment, mainly from a cost and demand perspective. I've had the dubious pleasure working with routing software long before Garmin or Google came on the scene so I understand the technological and commercial challenges. I've also been using paper maps longer than I care to remember and GPS units in various forms long enough to understand the practical benefits.
At the moment the available products are all compromises, and to get to any sort of comprehensive solution requires geekery above and beyond the consumer level that we can now expect in my areas. I'd rate the current situation to be in the early pentium era of PCs. COTS (Commercial Off The Shelf) solutions will do 80% of what 80% of most consumers think they want out of the box, but if it breaks or if you want the other 20% you are in serious geek territory. And the more the 80% use the commercial offerings the more they realise they are only getting 40 % of what they want. (though they probably NEED less in any case )
The above waffle amply demonstrates my level of boredom this evening, please feel free to ignore me :)
PS if anyone knows of a device that meets my needs PLEASE let me know 8)
-
For something with a big touch screen, the best options probably are the Garmin Oregon or Montana.
I think they will do quite a lot of the stuff you want. eg they will work with a HRM, and a sensor for cadence (though probably not a wheel sensor for speed).
It seems the Montana does have a lot of options for routing, eg setting avoidances. Routing can also depend on what maps you are using, eg if you use OSM maps designed for cycling, they should avoid any motorways.
The Montana does have the option of a Lithium-ion battery pack (instead of AAs) which can be charged from USB, so connect that to a dynamo or solar panel etc.
The Oregon 600 or 650 do have Bluetooth, which would let you connect to an Ipad or Iphone for planning routes.
Or there's the rumoured Garmin Monterra, which may be available sometime soon. Apparently similar to the Montana, but running Android. So hopefully that would let you tweak the software with whatever geekery you want...
-
Beardy’s shopping list is pretty comprehensive. But if I can be slightly mischievous, I’d add that top of my list, before any of the techy stuff, is that (a) I need to be able to see the screen in all conditions; (b) I need to be able to operate it whilst wearing heavy winter gloves; and (c) I need it to be reliable - no random freezing or mysterious powering down.
For me, touchscreens are out, if only because I need to be able to wipe off the rain without sending the unit into paroxysms of unintended action. And the buttons need to be engineered so they are the correct “weight” and I can feel what’s going on.
I know this can’t really be true but I can’t avoid the feeling that manufacturers simply do not test their products in the real world. If they did, they’d surely get these basics right, without which none of the fancy stuff is any use at all.
Or perhaps it’s just me? :-[
-
For something with a big touch screen, the best options probably are the Garmin Oregon or Montana.
I think they will do quite a lot of the stuff you want. eg they will work with a HRM, and a sensor for cadence (though probably not a wheel sensor for speed).
I have a Garmin Oregon 600 on order so yet to confirm this but they are ANT+ compatible and the "good" old GSC-10 is marketed as an accessory for the Oregon so it should in theory use the sensor for speed as well as cadence unless there is a firmware "switch" which disables the speed signal. The manual mind you is vague on this aspect.
Andrew
-
Not sure if it has been asked, but I am thinking of buying a GPS logger to back up my main unit (I'm planning on some long rides, and don't want to risk relying on a single unit/etrex30).
No bells/whistles etc, just something compact/light that records a track of location and altitude, and can be downloaded to Windows computer. With sufficient memory for rides that are at least 600km/40hours in duration, but ideally 2000km/200 hours in duration - I'm guessing 1GB would suffice.
Any suggestions? I've done some research but don't know any of the manufacturers (eg Hilux) or how suited the units are to cycling as opposed to fleet management.
-
Not sure if it has been asked, but I am thinking of buying a GPS logger to back up my main unit (I'm planning on some long rides, and don't want to risk relying on a single unit/etrex30).
No bells/whistles etc, just something compact/light that records a track of location and altitude, and can be downloaded to Windows computer. With sufficient memory for rides that are at least 600km/40hours in duration, but ideally 2000km/200 hours in duration - I'm guessing 1GB would suffice.
Any suggestions? I've done some research but don't know any of the manufacturers (eg Hilux) or how suited the units are to cycling as opposed to fleet management.
When the Midlands Mesh was still alive, I planned a Stratford upon Avon, Lands End, Berwick on Tweed and back to Stratford trip. 2000 km.
I had an eTrex Legend at the time. Doing the trip without collecting paper proofs NEVER crossed my mind. On a journey of that distance, real life ATM and shop reciepts had to be the primary PoPs. If the Garmin's GPX recording was the one-and-only, something was bound to go wrong.
-
Thanks. I would rely on paper based evidence. But as this relates to bagging the first Grimpeur du Sud SR (i.e. a full SR series in the South East with each ride having AAA points) and paper based DIYs don't facilitate AAA, it doesn't help in this case. Being fussy, I've got an old eTrex legend but it has several limitations that mean I'd prefer a more basic logger.
-
This'll only really work if you're already running a dynohub, but if you have the ability to charge it via usb while on the move would a cheap android smartphone fit the bill?
-
This'll only really work if you're already running a dynohub, but if you have the ability to charge it via usb while on the move would a cheap android smartphone fit the bill?
Possibly. I've got an expensive android smartphone. Perhaps a back up back up plan(!)
-
Not sure if it has been asked, but I am thinking of buying a GPS logger to back up my main unit (I'm planning on some long rides, and don't want to risk relying on a single unit/etrex30).
No bells/whistles etc, just something compact/light that records a track of location and altitude, and can be downloaded to Windows computer. With sufficient memory for rides that are at least 600km/40hours in duration, but ideally 2000km/200 hours in duration - I'm guessing 1GB would suffice.
Any suggestions? I've done some research but don't know any of the manufacturers (eg Hilux) or how suited the units are to cycling as opposed to fleet management.
I bought a Hilux logger for this sort of purpose (a backup on GPS perms) but it fell short of my needs. Specifically, I could not get it to record altitude, which the GPS DIY orgs need. It might have been my fault - the instructions were very poor, and I'm not the techy-est guy around. In the end I gave it away. I suspect the recipient has also ditched it. There must be other, better, devices like it, but the Hilux was quite cheap. Probably a connection there!
-
The elevation track from my i-got-u mentioned in the other thread was complete fiction. Didn't matter to me...
/flatlander
-
I'd like to add my experiences of Bryton and their Rider 50 sat nav unit.
I purchased the unit about 3 years ago and it has performed perfectly, I've been very impressed with the unit. I ride long distance Audax events and have just completed the 875 mile London Edinburgh London and used the Rider 50 to navigate throughout the whole event by using the GPX files from the organisers website.
During the event the sat nav got very wet during a downpour and I had lost the USB port cover which meant that the when I returned home I was unable to download the files to my PC. I contacted Bryton and they said to send the unit to Taiwan, which I did. They replaced the USB port on the unit and retrieved the files from the unit and emailed them to me. They also the replaced the unit's case. I received the unit back and it still had the files on it anyway and now works flawlessly again.
Even though the unit's warranty period had expired they did not charge me for the repair, even though technically it was my fault for allowing the ingress of water into the unit.
This company's customer care is absolutely outstanding and the guy at Bryton (Steven Hsu) and his tech team who fixed the unit and retrieved the log files are absolute stars.
I would highly recommend this company and its product because of the customer service and the brilliant features of the fantastic device and it's much cheaper than the equivalent Garmin device. Need I say more?
LEL rider J44
-
Moving on from the 50, the Bryton Rider 60 looks to be cracking bit of kit, but, for reasons unknown, Bryton don't seem to be shipping it. Announced in May, there is still no sign and Bryton themselves won't be drawn on the delay. With bluetooth and optional OS maps, it looks to be a lot better than the just announced Garmin Edge Touring
-
If I may make a small suggestion. When we bought our now elderly Garmin Oregon 300 for Geocaching it was useless as far as mapping went. After some hunting around we discovered http://talkytoaster.info/ and his map came on a card at a very reasonable price and the detail is excellent.
This info may or may not assist but is offered in the hope it might be useful to you.
PH