The other big one is the fridge, which is about 100W. Duty cycle varies according to what's in it, of course.
Four of them have a nifty electricity consumption feature so we can see what is drawing the most power
The other big one is the fridge, which is about 100W. Duty cycle varies according to what's in it, of course.
A pedant writes:
The duty cycle depends on how often you open it and the air temperature surrounding it. Its contents is immaterial unless you've just put a hot thing in.
The interesting one is the old microwave. I stupidly thought the load would vary for different power settings, but actually it just modulates on and off, spending more time off at lower settings.
The ones I bought with the electricity measuring are these:Four of them have a nifty electricity consumption feature so we can see what is drawing the most power
Can you point me at which product this is, I'm interested!
I've also done some measurements around our place. Laptop - charging and in use 13W+, router 7.5W approx.
The interesting one is the old microwave. I stupidly thought the load would vary for different power settings, but actually it just modulates on and off, spending more time off at lower settings. The shocker was opening the door as it has an old incandescent lamp so it was pulling 20W with the door open; nearly as much as all the new LED kitchen lights.
Our 24 year old small chest freezer was the big user - 3kWh a day. Soon ditched that for a A++ rated replacement and reduced our overall usage by about 20%!
I believe a few now drive it with an inverter, but not sure what advantage that has.
The first microwave I had actually did low power with a different winding on the transformer, but it only had two power settings.The interesting one is the old microwave. I stupidly thought the load would vary for different power settings, but actually it just modulates on and off, spending more time off at lower settings.
Pretty much all microwaves work like this; you can hear the magnetron cutting in and out on the lower power settings.
I believe a few now drive it with an inverter, but not sure what advantage that has.
Just cost, I think.
Heavy iron and copper HV transformers are expensive.
SMPSes are cheap.
Unlike other microwave ovens, Inverter Technology delivers a seamless stream of cooking power –– even at lower settings –– for precision cooking that preserves the flavor and texture of your favorite foods. Other microwaves mimic lower heat settings by turning the power on and off repeatedly, which can result in overcooked edges and cool spots in the middle. With Inverter, you can poach, braise and even steam more delicate foods, all with the speed and convenience of a microwave. You'll enjoy delicious, healthy cooking results, and all in less time
The interesting one is the old microwave. I stupidly thought the load would vary for different power settings, but actually it just modulates on and off, spending more time off at lower settings.
Pretty much all microwaves work like this; you can hear the magnetron cutting in and out on the lower power settings.
I believe a few now drive it with an inverter, but not sure what advantage that has.
The ones I bought with the electricity measuring are these:Four of them have a nifty electricity consumption feature so we can see what is drawing the most power
Can you point me at which product this is, I'm interested!
I've also done some measurements around our place. Laptop - charging and in use 13W+, router 7.5W approx.
The interesting one is the old microwave. I stupidly thought the load would vary for different power settings, but actually it just modulates on and off, spending more time off at lower settings. The shocker was opening the door as it has an old incandescent lamp so it was pulling 20W with the door open; nearly as much as all the new LED kitchen lights.
Our 24 year old small chest freezer was the big user - 3kWh a day. Soon ditched that for a A++ rated replacement and reduced our overall usage by about 20%!
https://smile.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B07B911Y6V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fpw=alm
They work with the Smart Life App, Alexa and Google Home.
Seems like this type is only for US or Euro sockets unfortunately. I assume some other manufacturer will pop up and provide them soon enough.The ones I bought with the electricity measuring are these:Four of them have a nifty electricity consumption feature so we can see what is drawing the most power
Can you point me at which product this is, I'm interested!
https://smile.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B07B911Y6V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fpw=alm
They work with the Smart Life App, Alexa and Google Home.
I can't find any UK equivalent. Anybody else seen one?
I am wondering about these smart plugs. Which ones are any good?
Is it worth getting ZigBee, instead of WiFi? Would require a separate gateway hub thing.
Are any different brands compatible with each other, so can control them in the same app?
Do any of the apps work without an internet connection?
I want something that can be connect to my Google Home speakers, for voice control, and setting some scheduled routines. Maybe a light turning on will help me wake up in the morning.
So a few plugs would do for now. Though maybe nice to get a few colour changing bulbs as well.
I notice Lidl have some plugs and bulbs in this week. They use ZigBee, they have a bundle with the gateway.
Probably best if you don't own the microwave, either. Unless you got it from freecycle for roasting AOL CDs.
What are they like for power factor? Maybe using an inverter improves that...
I am wondering about these smart plugs. Which ones are any good?
Is it worth getting ZigBee, instead of WiFi? Would require a separate gateway hub thing.
Are any different brands compatible with each other, so can control them in the same app?
Do any of the apps work without an internet connection?
I want something that can be connect to my Google Home speakers, for voice control, and setting some scheduled routines. Maybe a light turning on will help me wake up in the morning.
So a few plugs would do for now. Though maybe nice to get a few colour changing bulbs as well.
I notice Lidl have some plugs and bulbs in this week. They use ZigBee, they have a bundle with the gateway.
I am looking at buying a couple of tp link kasa 105 smart sockets to test with Google home and if successful I can see a place for similar trv units.
Does anybody use smart light bulbs?
Does anybody use smart light bulbs?
Are there smart switches? Possibly better option than bulbs.
I agree with b). VW's tail light (100 Hz, 10% duty cycle) are some of the worst.
With the exception of Sansi, I've yet to find a lamp manufacturer who discusses (b) at all - it's like the entire industry is stuck in advanced stages of "well, it looks alright to me" denial, and to hell with anyone on the autism spectrum, with a visual impairment, prone to eyestrain, taking photographs or using rotating machinery.
I gave up and built my own LED fixtures. They're varying degrees of bodgy-looking, have a brick of a PSU/control unit (you can't just stick them in a ceiling rose), expensive, the right kind of smart, repairable, and flicker-free.
I am looking at buying a couple of tp link kasa 105 smart sockets to test with Google home and if successful I can see a place for similar trv units.
Does anybody use smart light bulbs?
Are there smart switches? Possibly better option than bulbs.
There are, and they do seem like a better option from a usability perspective, but I think most of them require a neutral wire, and traditional BRITISH wiring doesn't have a neutral at the switch. Probably need a relatively deep backbox, too.
I have read that smart switches not requiring a neutral are under development but don't know how they might work.
We've had Hive on our heating for a while together with some plug/sockets and light bulbs - all works pretty well . . . I'm just waiting for delivery on a Hive thermostatic radiator valve to try - reviews are mixed but that seems to be the TRV side that's the problem rather than the simple "on/off" which is what I want them for - to isolate specific rooms at scheduled times (e.g bedrooms during the day) We'll see if they're any good.
I did try an Eqiva valve that doesn't require a hub as it's Bluetooth - after 4 hours of trying to set it up. it doesn't so it's winging it's way back to Mr Bezos.
We'll see on the Hive - not cheap but it's part of the overall single system.
Does anybody use smart light bulbs?
I'd like to, if I knew of some that a) use an open control protocol that doesn't rely on access to the internet and b) don't PWM at visible frequencies.
Obviously manufacturers are fairly cagey about (a), as their marketing is all about the convenience of their proprietary apps. I bought an open source ESP8266-based smart lamp from an Italian company as an experiment, but it never worked properly.
With the exception of Sansi, I've yet to find a lamp manufacturer who discusses (b) at all - it's like the entire industry is stuck in advanced stages of "well, it looks alright to me" denial, and to hell with anyone on the autism spectrum, with a visual impairment, prone to eyestrain, taking photographs or using rotating machinery.
I gave up and built my own LED fixtures. They're varying degrees of bodgy-looking, have a brick of a PSU/control unit (you can't just stick them in a ceiling rose), expensive, the right kind of smart, repairable, and flicker-free.
I almost bought the Tapo plug but the amp loading is lower than the Kasa and as it's for a heater I thought I'd best go with the Kasa.
Resurrecting this thread because I have recently discovered Tasmota (https://tasmota.github.io/docs/). Open source firmware for myriad internet-of-shit devices that can make them a lot less shitty (speaking MQTT/HTTP locally, without any of that cloud nonsense).Does the Bold bit mean Jeff Bezos/Sundar Pichai don't get to know when you're turning your kitchen light on? It's all within the Kim & barakta Towers Netjbex?
Resurrecting this thread because I have recently discovered Tasmota (https://tasmota.github.io/docs/). Open source firmware for myriad internet-of-shit devices that can make them a lot less shitty (speaking MQTT/HTTP locally, without any of that cloud nonsense).Does the Bold bit mean Jeff Bezos/Sundar Pichai don't get to know when you're turning your kitchen light on? It's all within the Kim & barakta Towers Netjbex?
Today's adventure in wanky automation was configuring CUPS to tell the smart plug feeding the laserjet to switch on when a job is added to the print queueue.
This is obviously a vast improvement on the previous system of messaging barakta on IRC to tell her to frob the switch...
Today's adventure in wanky automation was configuring CUPS to tell the smart plug feeding the laserjet to switch on when a job is added to the print queueue.
This is obviously a vast improvement on the previous system of messaging barakta on IRC to tell her to frob the switch...
Ooh I like that one. How much delay did you have to build in before the print job gets sent to allow the printer to boot and dhcp etc? Or does CUPs just keep retrying until the printer comes online?
Tuya ConvertThe RTL devices are cheaper and being Arm based lower power apparantly.
Tuya devices are sold under numerous brand names but they're all identifiable by the fact that they connect with these phone apps: "Smart Life" or "Tuya Smart". They incorporate different types of Tuya Wi-Fi modules internally.
Tuya has begun manufacturing some Wi-Fi modules using a Realtek RTL8710BN Wi-Fi SOC instead of an ESP82xx chip.
Tasmota cannot run on Realtek devices and there are no plans on supporting them.
Relay |
|
HWLBL SELi |
|
|
| LED
Button 1 |
| BL0937 CF
GND |
| HLWBL CFi
VCC |
So the 12F needs connecting like this. Connections in brackets are shown for completeness, I don't need them as this PCB doesn't have the power monitoring: GPIO15 |
|
(GPIO03) |
|
|
| GPIO00
GPIO13 |
| (GPIO05)
GND |
| (GPIO14)
VCC |
There's no connection for RST and EN. Those are handled on the riser board, see the 3 little resistors down the bottom (Blitzwolf socket so this is an ESP riser){"NAME":"Mehross MSS210","GPIO":[320,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,32,0,224,0,0],"FLAG":0,"BASE":18}
New favourite smart plug: https://templates.blakadder.com/athom_PG04-UK16A.html
Functionally equivalent to the Blitzwolf, but pre-flashed with Tasmota, so no mucking about to get access to the serial pins, calibrating the power monitoring, etc. Button on the top rather than the side, which is more convenient in most socket scenarios. Only the single (blue) blinkenlight though. Overall slightly smaller.
(I was shocked to discover a proper Bussmann BS1363 fuse inside.)
I've just taken a punt on https://www.mylocalbytes.com/products/smart-plug-pm-uk as a potential replacement.
A short switched extension lead, either on top of the thing they live on, or next to it so that switch can be operated with a foot?
If I understand your use correctly then you can also "train" multiple outputs to run off one switch (or vice-versa)? Though you could achieve that with a 4-way extension lead into one rc socket?
I almost bought the Tapo plug but the amp loading is lower than the Kasa and as it's for a heater I thought I'd best go with the Kasa.
Best 'recognised brand' option for home assistant?
Apparently the tp-link Kasa plugs (look identical) used to support Home Assistant, but now don't, because api removed? https://alerts.home-assistant.io/#tplink.markdown
no timer, no app, no wank basically.Can you cope with a bit of that as part of the setup process? The 4 sockets I modified above are set up as a group, push the on/off button on any one and the other 3 follow suit. No software/app involved at all in use and groups are just a basic tasmota (the software they run) function. The tasmota ready sockets Kim found will be able to do it.
We've had Hive on our heating for a while together with some plug/sockets and light bulbs - all works pretty well . . . I'm just waiting for delivery on a Hive thermostatic radiator valve to try - reviews are mixed but that seems to be the TRV side that's the problem rather than the simple "on/off" which is what I want them for - to isolate specific rooms at scheduled times (e.g bedrooms during the day) We'll see if they're any good.
I did try an Eqiva valve that doesn't require a hub as it's Bluetooth - after 4 hours of trying to set it up. it doesn't so it's winging it's way back to Mr Bezos.
We'll see on the Hive - not cheap but it's part of the overall single system.
Update on the Hive TRV - installation was pretty simple and our desired use as simply an on/off mechanism for the radiator in one room works fine - at the moment it's set at the same temperature as the rest of the house and comes on from 1415 and goes off at 1545 ... to coincide with my wife using the room from 1500-1600 (yoga!)
The one annoyance, which nowhere does it tell you, is that the TRV control ONLY works on the Hive phone/tablet app and not the PC/browser which is my preferred method.
Setup was a dawdle, or so I thought. That was until I started playing with my hub to reassign my 4 plugs with sequential IP addresses (so I can remember them). Three of the 4 worked fine, but then I stupidly told the fourth one to connect to the SSID for the hotspot on my BT hub, rather than the regular SSID.
Now the plug seems to be in no-mans-land - I don't have a clue what IP address it's now using, so I can't get at it with a browser. I naively thought that holding down the button until it flashes would reset the device so that I get at the configuration page again, but that proved not to be the case.
The button does, however, toggle the power output on and off, so I'll be using it as a dumb plug instead unless I can figure it out. >:(
Tasmota recovery: https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Device-Recovery/#recovery-techniques
Sort of related to this thread - I'm looking for suggestions/recommendations for a basic plug-in energy monitor for about £20/25 . . .
Hi,Sort of related to this thread - I'm looking for suggestions/recommendations for a basic plug-in energy monitor for about £20/25 . . .
Most (but not all) of the "Smart Switches" as in this thread can do Energy Monitoring and much more "advice" could be given if you want to follow that path. However, you would probably prefer an integrated display type, such as have been sold by Lidl/Aldi and Maplin (I have both). IMHO the former are typically German, too many functions on a few buttons, with a tiny display, and of course Maplin shops are long gone. So a quick google has produced two other suggestions:
The Energenie ENER007 (https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2720873.pdf) looks interesting (< £20), available from Screwfix/Toolstation/CPC, etc. and even Maplin (except they're out of stock, as are Localbytes for the Tasmota Plug in the thread above). Another possibility (with a backlight) is Here (https://www.onbuy.com/gb/power-meter-plug-energy-monitor-with-backlight-lcd-display-electricity~c13234~p29991744/) but note that only the https://www.onbuy.com/gb/shop/low-energy-supermarket-ltd/ seller appears to be shipping directly from the UK.
Cheers, Alan.
Hi,
Personally, I prefer ebay to aliexpress, etc. (or even some Amazon "Marketplace" sellers), because they seem more "up front" about typical/latest delivery times and the VAT surcharge, etc.. There are some Chinese sellers who do keep UK stock, or bulk ship (aeroplane) within a week (sometimes marked "posted from UK"), and the "Speedpack" service is impressive (usually tracked) at a moderate price. So I always look carefully at the predicted delivery window.
The two Energy Monitors that I linked do seem to be quite different, just as the various (apparently identical) "cylindrical" smart switches of this thread can have quite different features and software, sadly almost impossible to identify from their listing/descriptions :( (except for the Tasmotas). Of the DIY shops, I usually start at the Screwfix webpage because they have Q&A and Customer Review pages (but object that it defaults to all the 5* reviews first, not in sequence of posting). Their reviews seem mainly positive but I see that they have no stock of the Energenie in any of my local branches (but Toolstation have ;) ). There are contradictions whether it has/needs a battery, because another of my objections to the Lidl device is that it has a coin cell battery which its manual suggests may expire quite quickly unless it is left plugged in.
Cheers, Alan.