Yet Another Cycling Forum
General Category => The Knowledge => Topic started by: rogerzilla on 30 March, 2021, 02:12:12 pm
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Irritatingly, it's neither 130mm nor 135mm, so always needs to be squeezed or stretched to get a hub in. Has anyone here reset one to a proper 130mm? I probably won't DIY due to the value of the rear triangle and the stiffness of the thing.
I want to put in a SA hub which cannot be spaced any more widely than 130mm and is nutted with the minimum safe nut engagement. I'm not happy with the nuts having to pull the rear end together as well as clamp the axle. If maximum torque is 25Nm (which it is) and 5Nm has been used just to draw the rear end together, it might creep on climbs.
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The TSR30 is 132.5mm from the factory and I coldset mine to 130mm so that HK and I could share wheels. I just used a Spanish windlass while checking frame alignment. It took quite a bit of muscle but it is close enough for my purposes.
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I might get Argos to do it. The dropouts need to be parallel, as hub gears don't like bending forces in the axle. A repaint wouldn't hurt anyway, as the powdercoating is meh and is flaking off at sharp edges and allowing unsightly rust. I despise powdercoat.
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Dropout alignment tools are available and easy to use but be careful which ones you choose. Park have made some adjustable alignment tools with woeful tolerances in the past.
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I've always used a huge adjustable spanner and a long straight edge with the BB faces as a reference.