GP5000-TL, but with tubes

[quixoticgeek]

I'm trying to decide what tyres to use for my big ride this summer.

I've been running GP5000 622x32mm for the last couple of years, and they are fantastic. But I'm wondering if I would get any benefit from running the tubeless version, but with tubes (I'm not ready to go tubeless yet). In theory the TL version has stronger side walls. Would this give a poorer quality of ride when run with tubes?

Am I crazy?

J

[Zed43]

How many abandoned rides caused by sidewall failure did you have over those years ?

[dat]

It’s hard enough to mount them tyres tubeless. Also getting them off at the side of the road will be a right PITA, just have some plugs and sealant.

[zigzag]

it's not something i would do. i've used latex inner tubes with clincher tyres on tcr, had two punctures, 10-15min to sort out. additional 5min each morning to top up tyre pressure - well worth the time and effort for a better ride experience. i would probably use tubeless with sealant now.

[Cudzoziemiec]

Different tyres in a different size, but I'm running Panaracer Gravel King TLC in 38-622 with tubes. I've found them very easy to fit and not noticed ride quality problems due to stiff sidewalls.

The reason I'm running them with tubes is because when I bought them, I didn't realize until they arrived that I was getting the tubeless compatible version. So although I already had tubeless compatible rims, I didn't have a compression wotsit pump or sealant, so decided just to carry on with the tubes from the previous tyres. And since then, well, I just haven't got round to it.

[quixoticgeek]

How many abandoned rides caused by sidewall failure did you have over those years ?

Zero...

J

[Zed43]

Which begs the question, why consider the TL version when the "weak point" of the regular version is strong enough for you, yet the TL version may manifest possible disadvantages like harsher ride because of thicker side walls and a suggested tighter fit on the rim making swapping tubes a chore?

FWIW, I have the 28mm GP5000 TL on order that I intend to run without tubes (shame there's no 32mm for ERTRO 584 aka 650b). Less than 1/2 the price of my regular Compass 38mm tyres, possibly even less rolling resistance, curious about comfort on block pavement and bad tarmac. And TL obviously.

[quixoticgeek]

Which begs the question, why consider the TL version when the "weak point" of the regular version is strong enough for you, yet the TL version may manifest possible disadvantages like harsher ride because of thicker side walls and a suggested tighter fit on the rim making swapping tubes a chore?

Cos I'm looking at the biggest ride of my life, and am scared...

FWIW, I have the 28mm GP5000 TL on order that I intend to run without tubes (shame there's no 32mm for ERTRO 584 aka 650b). Less than 1/2 the price of my regular Compass 38mm tyres, possibly even less rolling resistance, curious about comfort on block pavement and bad tarmac. And TL obviously.

Based on the other friesland 300 2 years ago, 32's on pave glide over a lot easier, than 28's, which are a lot easier than 25's, and they are even easier than 23's. We had a group with one bike running each of the 3 sizes. I had to wait at the end of each pave section...

J

[slugbait]

I guess the big ride is TCR? I wouldn't worry about the cobbled sections near Lille (perfectly doable on your normal tires), but more about those crazy gravel bits in the Alps. That's where reinforced sidewalls may prove to be beneficial, I guess.

FWIW, I have been doing quite some gravel (including a "rocky" descent in Limburg) on 28mm GP5000s lately and they hold up really well. Good traction, no punctures.

(And that other Friesland 300 had no pavé, just very bad "klinkers".)

[quixoticgeek]

I guess the big ride is TCR? I wouldn't worry about the cobbled sections near Lille (perfectly doable on your normal tires), but more about those crazy gravel bits in the Alps. That's where reinforced sidewalls may prove to be beneficial, I guess.

Yep, It's CP3 Parcour I'm worrying about.

FWIW, I have been doing quite some gravel (including a "rocky" descent in Limburg) on 28mm GP5000s lately and they hold up really well. Good traction, no punctures.

(And that other Friesland 300 had no pavé, just very bad "klinkers".)

They were very bad klinkers...

J

[Frank9755]

Generally using tubeless tyres with tubes is sub-optimal because they are harder to get on and off, and your chances of nicking the tube when you put them back on is much higher (I had a long walk in February as a result of this)

Best plan would be to buy a GP5000 tubeless tyre and see if you can mount it on your rims.  If you can't, there's no point thinking about using them. 

I wanted to use GP5000 TL when they came out, but I don't because I did that test.  I could mount them on Kinlin XR31s, in my garage with a struggle, but would not fancy my chances by the roadside.  I also tried them on Lightbicycle carbon rims and they were clearly going to be as difficult, so I gave up to avoid causing damage.  However, I can get them on to an old Ultegra wheelset ok, so I use them on that, but not on my racing wheels.   

[Zed43]

I just mounted a pair of 28mm GP5000 TL on HED Belgium 650b rims and concur with Frank: they are a PITA to get them on. I had to resort to a VAR tyre jack. I'm running them tubeless, let's see how that works out. Running them with tubes will no doubt result in more swearing than usual when you puncture 

Personally I would go with "the devil I know", with a meter of Gorilla tape wrapped around the pump as a means for emergency repair.

[Frank9755]

I just mounted a pair of 28mm GP5000 TL on HED Belgium 650b rims and concur with Frank: they are a PITA to get them on. I had to resort to a VAR tyre jack. I'm running them tubeless, let's see how that works out. Running them with tubes will no doubt result in more swearing than usual when you puncture 

Personally I would go with "the devil I know", with a meter of Gorilla tape wrapped around the pump as a means for emergency repair.

You are a better man than me if you managed that!  I broke my VAR lever on them.  I then broke my front rim when I resorted to a metal lever to get the tyre off, when it was clear I wasn't going to use it.  It was an expensive lesson, but not as expensive or painful as trying to do it at the side of the road with tired hands, rain, middle of night, etc.

They must work on some rims, though, so I'd always say it's worth trying as, otherwise, they seem to be the best tyres for what the OP wants.