Centrelock to 6 bolt converter

[jhob]

I am currently building a wheel with a centrelock rear hub that I want to convert to 6 bolt so that I can easily take the rotor off mid ride should I need to get in behind it for whatever reason (broken spoke etc).

A lot of the adapters I've seen seem to use pins instead of the 6 bolts and still use a lockring to ultimately secure the disc (along with the converter) in place which negates my purposes of wanting 6 bolt.

Anyone know of a decent converter that secures the disc in place just using bolts? I.E. it is only the converter that is secured by lockring.



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[Kim]

Interesting question.  Would have obvious roadside fettleability benefits.

[PaulF]

I’m pretty sure I had one like that but didn’t pay much attention at the time and sold the wheel a few years ago.

[PhilO]

There are a few that use screws to hold the rotor, including Shimano's own (https://aplbike.com/epages/ec2373.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/ec2373/Products/4524667354673&Locale=en_GB) but the problem seems to be that the splines are quite close in size to the PCD of the six bolts, so the lock ring still overlaps the heads.

The fancy Woodman adapter might work: https://www.bikerumor.com/2015/09/07/eb15-woodmans-clever-and-light-centerlock-to-6-bolt-rotor-adapter-more/.  Or there's the Problem Solvers design, which clamps the splines radially so could be used without a lock ring? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Problem-Solvers-Centerlock-Adaptor-Rotors/dp/B001C4PTI6.

Alternatively, use a Shimano one, or similar, and cut a slot or drill a hole in the lock ring flange so that you can remove it using a punch.

Or don't bother. I don't think I've ever wanted to remove the rotor mid ride in 20 years of using disc brakes. I just tape a broken spoke to its neighbour to stop it rattling and leave it for later. You'd want to remove the cassette too, anyway, and if you have the tool for that then you have the tool for the centerlock.

[Polar Bear]

Hmmm, now I did have a solution to this potential issue years ago but it depended upon my rather cool Gerber Cool Tool mk1 which has a mini adjustable spanner.  I also carried an NBT2.   I still have both tools but at present nothing with centrelock disks.

I was able to use the Cool Tool once to refit the non driveside crankarm on a bicycle belonging to a damsel in distress.  Saved her and her child's ride.     

The original Cool Tool is very versatile indeed.

[Brucey]

I am currently building a wheel with a centrelock rear hub .....

whoa! Why not just use a hub with a  six-bolt mounting instead?

....Or don't bother. I don't think I've ever wanted to remove the rotor mid ride in 20 years of using disc brakes. I just tape a broken spoke to its neighbour to stop it rattling and leave it for later. You'd want to remove the cassette too, anyway, and if you have the tool for that then you have the tool for the centerlock.

for day rides and MTB excursions this is probably right. If you were really bothered then it is simple enough to carry an emergency spoke (that can be fitted without removing the disc or cassette) and deal with it properly later.

It is also usually possible to thread a repair spoke 'the wrong way' through the NDS flange and carry on with it like that until you can get to a workshop.

For touring and longer rides then it makes sense to use equipment that you can fix/maintain with minimal tools but then I guess you would take some kind of cassette tool anyway.

cheers

[jhob]

Or there's the Problem Solvers design, which clamps the splines radially so could be used without a lock ring? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Problem-Solvers-Centerlock-Adaptor-Rotors/dp/B001C4PTI6.

Yes, that could well work, I like the look of it.

Alternatively, use a Shimano one, or similar, and cut a slot or drill a hole in the lock ring flange so that you can remove it using a punch.

Another good idea!

Or don't bother. I don't think I've ever wanted to remove the rotor mid ride in 20 years of using disc brakes. I just tape a broken spoke to its neighbour to stop it rattling and leave it for later. You'd want to remove the cassette too, anyway, and if you have the tool for that then you have the tool for the centerlock.

I'm also considering this option too.  The wheel will be 32h so even if a spoke went should stay perfectly true enough to ride.  I was mainly thinking about clearance to get an emergency spoke on.  But yes, maybe I'm over-thinking this...

[jhob]

I am currently building a wheel with a centrelock rear hub .....

whoa! Why not just use a hub with a  six-bolt mounting instead?

Because I had already purchased the hub before realising the issue with the converter.  It's a shimano FH-RS505 unit which at the time offered me the best trade-off between weight/reliability and price.

....Or don't bother. I don't think I've ever wanted to remove the rotor mid ride in 20 years of using disc brakes. I just tape a broken spoke to its neighbour to stop it rattling and leave it for later. You'd want to remove the cassette too, anyway, and if you have the tool for that then you have the tool for the centerlock.

for day rides and MTB excursions this is probably right. If you were really bothered then it is simple enough to carry an emergency spoke (that can be fitted without removing the disc or cassette) and deal with it properly later.

It is also usually possible to thread a repair spoke 'the wrong way' through the NDS flange and carry on with it like that until you can get to a workshop.

For touring and longer rides then it makes sense to use equipment that you can fix/maintain with minimal tools but then I guess you would take some kind of cassette tool anyway.

cheers

I do have an emergency spoke (and have used it previously!).  I was able to fit it when a rear drive side spoke went so I guess I should  be able to manage the same on the disc side, which is less likely to go pop anyway and if it does it would be at the bend so broken spoke removal shouldn't be an issue.

[Kim]

You'd want to remove the cassette too, anyway, and if you have the tool for that then you have the tool for the centerlock.

Is my approach.  It's come in handy a few times, mostly for the extraction of thoroughly wedged chains on other people's bikes.

whoa! Why not just use a hub with a  six-bolt mounting instead?

SON Delux.  Before SP came along with their six-bolt version, it was the only game in town.

[grams]

This looks like it might be what you're looking for.

That said, I just grabbed a couple of cassette lock rings and a six-bolt rotor from my junk pile and note that neither lock ring fits inside the gap in the rotor, so any lock ring designed for this needs to be unusually small.

and if you have the tool for that then you have the tool for the centerlock

Beware the Shimano adapter requires a Hollowtech BB tool for the lock ring.

[Brucey]

I'm not quite sure what you had in mind but the screw thread on a cassette lockring is different (slightly smaller IIRC) from that of a centrelock  disc lockring.

cheers

[grams]

I was working on the assumption that they're roughly the same and I had some cassette lock rings right in front of me. My point was that the relative dimensions of the two parts make it hard to build without compromise.

* digs up Centrelock lock ring *

The threads appear visually the same, but a digital calliper gives 30.2 and 30.3 mm over the threads for the cassette lock rings and 30.6 mm for the Centrelock lock ring. That seems slightly too big to be engineering tolerances and slightly too small to be deliberately different. Hmmmm....

[Brucey]

  It's a shimano FH-RS505 unit which at the time offered me the best trade-off between weight/reliability and price.

do bear in mind that once you have bolted the disc and lockring on, there is often little difference between the weight of a centre lock and a six bolt hub/disc assy. The centrelock disc and the lockring are usually heavier than the six-bolt disc and the six bolts.

Often the six-bolt discs allow more choice and less expense when buying them, too.

cheers