Yet Another Cycling Forum
General Category => The Knowledge => Topic started by: nikki on 14 June, 2020, 06:09:23 pm
-
I picked up a trailer from Freecycle this week. Turns out to be a Trail-a-tot one in not very good condition. I'm wondering if it's worth trying to refurb it a bit or just throw it away. What does the panel think?
I'm on minimal budget and just what tools I've got handy. No real fabrication options, but I could probably sort a wooden platform.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50005830722_2a481f29c6_z.jpg)
It stank of cat wee, so I've removed all the fabric and the upper bit of the frame associated with it:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50005005398_020f0585a1_z.jpg)
The wheels have seen better days:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50005010753_b2ef19513a_z.jpg)
How would they normally be held in place? Cotter pin?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50005033303_45e3bfdd71_z.jpg)
This is the 'hinge' where the towing arm is fixed to the main frame:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50005561106_4852859709_z.jpg)
And the connecting-to-the-bike end:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50005565391_150f3c89ff_z.jpg)
I could give it some time and effort with a wire brush and some rattle cans, but it's probably the wheels that concern me the most and I'm not sure I could ever get it up to a suitable state for loaning to others or using for an event, but I'm open to ideas. What say thee?
-
What size wheels are they? Could you swap out the axle to another set of wheels.
I would rough the metal and paint with cold galvanising spray.
-
I'd start with the wheel rims and see if I could clean them up sufficient to paint.
Wire brush and emery cloth, a rust inhibitor and then paint them. They don't need to be shiny do they?
I'd try a bolt to fit the axle hole with a nylon nut and a washer between bolt and frame.
If that works the frame needs similar treatment to the rims.
-
Trailer tyres run at very low pressure to absorb bumps. The rims could just about be Swiss cheese and still work.
Split pins would work adequately to secure the wheels but a spring clip might be preferable.
I am too lazy to put a lot of work into a trailer like that but you might enjoy it.
-
overall it looks like it ought to be a 'goer' once it has a lick of paint on it. Trailer wheels don't have to be super if you are not planning on carrying precious/heavy cargo.
The wheels would normally be secured using some kind of detent pin; this sort is traditional
(https://cdn.tracepartsonline.net/PartsDefs/Production/WIXROYD_2072744115/90-09072019-035133/Pictures/90-09072019-035133L.gif)
in which case the loop is spring loaded so flips down and stops the pin from coming out. There are also centre push types if you want to go spendy. A nut and bolt would do if you don't want to spend money or take the wheels off on a regular basis. FWIW if you make a trailer with a flat platform on it, it can be hung up flat to a wall with the wheels off, in which case it can be stored under cover and further corrosion is less likely. A similar pin can be used to make the trailer QD from the coupling. You can buy spare couplings of that sort (for buttons, on ebay) so the trailer can be used with multiple different bikes if you want too.
One thing I would definitely do is to make sure the trailer can't come off if the spring in the coupling breaks; these springs sometimes break anyway and once they are rusty this is even more likely to happen. To this end a short woven strap with eyelets in it is commonly bolted across the coupling. However some care is needed with its placement; if it is poorly thought out, spring breakage involves the trailer getting tangled in the back wheel, which you might well deem worse than the trailer becoming completely detached.
cheers
-
How thick is that rust on the rims? If you take off the tyres, what do they look like inside? Also, what state are the hubs in?
-
R clips are your friend
-
Make it into a soapbox car. Then ride it down a hill and crash it.
-
I need to have a proper look at the wheels, don't I. TBH I was still a bit reluctant to touch them as I suspect the cat may have got them too!
I'm not sure of the size: 16" at a guess. In which case replacements seem like they might be £50 a pop.
The previous owner said they'd consistently had problems keeping the one inflated, so that needs a proper examination. The other's flat too. Apparently they've just been using them like that (for getting the shopping in).
Last time I was in Japan and browsing the bike departments there, I picked up a tube of something claiming to be rust remover. This may be its chance to prove itself! I've not encountered galvanising spray before, so thanks for that tip!
I can confirm the bolts are made of cheese. I'd be looking to replace the ones that are still on there, I think.
Will have a look for detent pins and coupling stuff. Wheel removal & flat storage would definitely be a bonus if it gets to that stage.
-
The problem with something like that, is that you start thinking you could molish a decent new one for a similar amount of effort...
That said, if the hubs are okay, it has a decent advantage over the usual structure-outboard-so-it-can-use-standard-front-hubs design.
If the hitch is knackered, you could probably retrofit a Carry Freedom spare without too much drama.
-
yes you could make a trailer from scratch but it would need lots of tools and so forth, so in this case a refurb is a much better idea. if the spring ever breaks, using a 'carry freedom' "lollypop" instead makes for an excellent tow hitch, much better than the spring type.
FWIW I have a few other thoughts
1) the way the axle brackets mount to the frame looks like it may easily allow the wheels to be moved forwards slightly. You may find this is desirable depending on what loads you intend to carry.
2) If the wheels are shot then I would suggest that a set of 36h BMX wheels (406 size) would not be difficult to find (used) and could be refangled easily onto those hubs. They would also give an immensely strong and reasonably lightweight wheel; even a cheap aluminium rim in this size is normally very strong. Also, this would arguably be an ideal introduction to the arcane business of building wheels; the wheel wouldn't have to be perfectly straight or perfectly tensioned to be good enough for trailer use.
3) if the 'fold flat for storage' scheme is appealing, it wouldn't be difficult to drill vertical holes through the frame, so as to allow the wheels to be attached flat to the frame for storage.
This is all very do-able and would make for a really practical load-lugger, all at a fraction of the cost of a new trailer (that is worth having) leave alone a carrier bike that will accommodate similar loads.
cheers
-
yes you could make a trailer from scratch but it would need lots of tools and so forth
Yeahbut this is nikki.
If the wheels are shot then I would suggest that a set of 36h BMX wheels (406 size) would not be difficult to find (used) and could be refangled easily onto those hubs. They would also give an immensely strong and reasonably lightweight wheel; even a cheap aluminium rim in this size is normally very strong. Also, this would arguably be an ideal introduction to the arcane business of building wheels; the wheel wouldn't have to be perfectly straight or perfectly tensioned to be good enough for trailer use.
My thoughts exactly (see above).
-
this is the carry freedom lollypop
(https://shop.planet-used.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/700x700/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/k/u/kupplung-2017_1.jpg)
cheers
-
How does that give degrees of flexibility, or do you still need the spring?
I have been using releasable ball joints for years on my trailers. I will need to get some new ones soon, but the company I used last time were expensive on delivery and they took a month to arrive. >:( >:(
-
it is a polyurethane elastomer; that is all you need. Just bolts into the towing arm of the trailer.
FWIW ball joints work OK but there is no shock absorbing element unless one is added separately.
cheers
-
Put it on eBay as a classic with "patina" ;D
-
How does that give degrees of flexibility, or do you still need the spring?
The elastomer lollipop is surprisingly flexible-but-tough. The bike can lie on its side without trouble.
I believe Tigerbiten OTP managed to break one, so beefed the hitch up with a second. That's on a trike, so it doesn't have as much flexing to do. It's the sort of thing you could reasonably carry a spare of while touring.
-
yes you could make a trailer from scratch but it would need lots of tools and so forth
Yeahbut this is nikki.
Yeahbut can't get to my studio or the workshops.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50012301763_b736a0d920_z.jpg)
Having looked a bit more closely at the wheels, I find I have zero enthusiasm for trying to de-rust them (the tyres are knacked, too). Wheelbuilding stuff I'm up for, depending on costs.
Can you clue me up on the hub and axle situation please? I've given the wheels a spin and one of them is significantly graunchy and would benefit from a service, but how do you get into it?
I can't spot any flats for getting spanners on to
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50012829561_691d54a13c_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50013095932_821e0d9d30_z.jpg)
Is this just an end cap I prise off?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50012834661_06f5d6030d_z.jpg)
If I were to start from scratch, are the hubs just normal front hubs, or are they something specific to trailers?
Is it possible to buy the axles separately?
I've had a search around but I'm not finding much - possibly 'cos I'm searching for the wrong terms...
-
Hubs of this type tend to be found on trailers, the front of tadpole trikes and wheelchairs.
I'd expect the axle to be able to slide out somehow (not quite sure what that is that's retaining it), and the hub to be little more than a shell for a couple of sealed bearings.
-
The hubs will have sealled bearings - most front bike hubs still tend to use cup & cone and have thinner axles designed to be supported both sides.
-
It does indeed look like an endcap that needs either prising or tapping off. Hopefully all will then be revealed.
-
If the hubs are smooth you don't need to tinker with them just now; you could 'travel in hope' and cross that bridge when you come to it. But the usual arrangement is that the dustcap is a push fit and beneath that there is a nut that secures the axle through the hub. I wouldn't set my hopes on obtaining wheels/hubs which fit those exact stub axles; I'd build new rims onto those hubs.
As I mentioned before a pair of cheap 36h BMX wheels would be a good donor, possibly spokes and all.
cheers
-
I'll have a poke around that cap tomorrow.
It would be full commit, but it seems I have a certain amount of enthusiasm for destructive liberation of the hubs from the spokes and rims! :demon:
SJS have these rims: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-tape/budget-20-x-175-inch-alloy-rim-silver-36-hole/
What happens with lacing patterns at that size? Is it still 3-cross?
-
I tend to do 20" wheels 2-cross. My trailer's factory wheels are laced radially.
I suspect it's a case of anything goes, since it's never under acceleration or braking torque.
-
the old wheels are built x3 so you may as well rebuild that way too.
cheers
-
3 different answers in 2 posts! ::-) :thumbsup: ;D
I've been trying unsuccessfully to remove the 'dust cap'
...which has cleaned off enough of the crud on the other side to reveal a retaining clip!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50017240092_1452b725c2_z.jpg)
Doing battle with that now as the hub won't sit nicely in my truing stand as it is, due to the different diameters of washers and other things going on.
-
Doing battle with that now as the hub won't sit nicely in my truing stand as it is, due to the different diameters of washers and other things going on.
If you do manage to get it off:
https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=56266.0
-
The once in a decade outing for the circlip pliers.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
The once in a decade outing for the circlip pliers.
I bought some last year after a swearing-at-pingfuckits incident. Haven't used them yet.
-
The once in a decade outing for the circlip pliers.
I bought some last year after a swearing-at-pingfuckits incident. Haven't used them yet.
I bought some in the 1980s for some good reason I am sure. They have haunted me ever since, every time I need proper pliers they are there teasing me. The inny-outy are the worst, at least the outy-inny there is some hope of pliers like behaviour.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Yeah, trying to get a screwdriver in isn't working.
I'll add pliers onto the Screwfix order with the galv spray...
Annoyingly I've got the merest hint of a memory that maybe, just maybe I've got a pair somewhere in amongst the distributed tool collection. That's not going to do much for the frequency of use stats if I end up with two pairs!
Nice tip with the thru-axle adaptor Kim, thanks.
Remembered I had a tap and die set while ranting about Battlestar Galactica
-
Remembered I had a tap and die set while ranting about Battlestar Galactica
Yes, I've been trying to work out the connection. ???
-
if you don't have a through-axle adaptor then an old axle from a cup and cone hub with two cones on it works quite well.
cheers
-
Soooo...
Next challenge: the bearings are no good - with the one hub I've looked at so far, the bearings are completely seized and it looks like the axle has just been rotating against the inner ring of the bearing unit.
It would be good to replace the bearings if possible. What's the normal approach for getting them out? I've been trying to use a screwdriver as a drift from the other side, but no signs of movement yet. I could get some Deep Creep in between the bearing housing and the hub - I don't suppose there's anything to be lost in terms of the performance of the bearings if it gets into them!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50034795801_ec087c0740_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50035056397_5dee1c07a8_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50035055317_fbaa851d69_z.jpg)
-
one way of making the job easier is to 'travel in hope' and to build the wheels first before getting the bearings out. The spoke tension loads on the flanges ease the fit of the bearings in the hub, so they will come out more easily. Also modest heat will help; an easy/safe method is to tip a kettle full of boiling water over the hub immediately prior to using the drift on the bearings.
FWIW you have absolutely nothing to lose by using a pointed tool to remove the outer bearing seals and seeing if the bearings will respond to a little oil/TLC. Often they will miraculously spring back to (slightly rumbly) life. Again this is more likely to work once the wheels are built, because the clearances are more in your favour.
cheers
-
The spoke tension loads on the flanges ease the fit of the bearings in the hub, so they will come out more easily.
Good point! (You've done this before, haven't you...)
using a pointed tool to remove the outer bearing seals and seeing if the bearings will respond to a little oil/TLC. Often they will miraculously spring back to (slightly rumbly) life.
Whoop! One unit is now rotating! (Verrrry rumbly!)
The other is looking like it'll need some periodic soakings with penetrating fluid to unstick it, but it'll be a while before the parcel from SJS arrives, so I can play the long game with it.
Thanks.
-
After a quick lace and cranking up of the tension, I've managed to extract 3 of the bearing units and get them replaced with buttery smooth ones. The 4th shows no signs of moving, so I've refurbed it as much as I can and I shall quit while I'm ahead.
Through going through this process though, I'm bracing myself for discovering the spokes might be a tad too long.
This photo overstates the situation as the rim was off centre and the spokes on the other side of the rim were below the top surface of the nipples, but it is a single-walled rim so there's nowhere to hide (except under the rim tape) if the spokes do turn out to be too long.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50079359282_64c815e14f_z.jpg)
So, question: how long is too long: how much protrusion might I be able to get away with before I start getting spoke-induced punctures?
-
Just grind or file off the excess spoke length if they protrude from the nipples, given it is a single wall rim.
-
Just grind or file off the excess spoke length if they protrude from the nipples, given it is a single wall rim.
yep, SOP for single walled rims
cheers
-
Yes - so I gather - but because I'm working out of my front room with whatever tools I have to hand, rather than just being able to get on with it I'll probably have to make judgement calls on whether a) grinding/filing needs to happen b) to what extent and c) if that's going to need me to buy more tools. Hence trying to find out what sort of leeway there might be.
-
Blob some sugru over them and cover them with rim tape. What's the worst that could happen?
Or dismantle the wheel and lop a few mm off the spokes with a hacksaw...
-
A decent file takes length off galvanised spokes like butter and stainless isn’t much more difficult. I would be surprised if you needed to remove much more than a couple of millimetres.
-
Or dismantle the wheel and lop a few mm off the spokes with a hacksaw...
If you do this it would be worth running a nipple onto the spoke first. After you have cut the spoke, removing the nipple will reform the damaged thread.
-
if the spokes are likely to poke out the top of the nipples then building single-walled rims with washers under each nipple can help with this and makes for a stronger wheel to boot.
cheers
-
Blob some sugru over them and cover them with rim tape. What's the worst that could happen?
Or dismantle the wheel and lop a few mm off the spokes with a hacksaw...
Is that a doube-rec for adhesives followed by "What's the worst that could happen?". From you, Kim?! ;D
Hacksawing is my least favoured option due to not having a vice/sturdy workbench combination.
I've got one wheel trued up and the spoke pokes are all over the place, lengthwise. I'm going to do the other and see if that's a similar situation.
-
I've got one wheel trued up and the spoke pokes are all over the place, lengthwise. I'm going to do the other and see if that's a similar situation.
the spoke lengths vary between 'inside' and 'outside', and even if the hub and rim are made perfectly this results in an apparent variation in the spoke length that persists in the built wheel if the wheel is built 'skew'. By which I meant the inside spokes are leading on one side and trailing on the other (which is how the wheels were built originally). By contrast if the wheel is built 'symmetric' instead (inside leading or trailing both sides) then the spoke lengths can be averaged (which always means less filing or even none), or made such that only half the spokes need filing, in pairs.
Normally I'd have said following the old spoking pattern might be the best option (even though it is skew) but in this case you might end up with more spoke filing to do. In some wheels it can make a small difference to how the wheel works whether the wheel is built skew or not, or which way the inside spokes face etc, but in the case of a trailer wheel (unbraked) it doesn't.
cheers
-
(which is how the wheels were built originally).
*goes back and checks photos*
Well spotted!
I'd just automatically treated it as a rim-braked front wheel and gone for symmetrical, pulling spokes on the outside.
I can't see a pattern in the protrusions. I think the worst offender is related to the seam.
I'll see how the other one shapes up, anyway.
-
Wheels built (turned out one of the spokes was longer than spec) and a mahoosive box arrived today:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50216306307_aaa5574f9d_c.jpg)
Well, two mahoosive boxes. After confirming that small children do still enjoy playing in large cardboard boxes, the outer one has been gifted to the family nextdoor.
The inner one is looking like it'll do the job on the trailer.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50216055751_91173d9dc0_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50215366248_3d8626f72a_c.jpg)
I 'just' need to sort out the middle bit...
Those of you with trailers, what kind of thickness is the main platform, and are there any nice features you'd recommend regarding fitting points?
I probably need to accommodate box on and box off, also bungee and ratchet strap fixings for $RandomStuff as befits an art student.
-
The Carry Freedom Y-frame's bed is a sheet of ~15mm ply with grip tape on top (slightly overkill weight-wise, tbh, but it's certainly durable). 4 largish holes to accommodate rubber feet mounted on the underside of a box to prevent slippage. I've supplemented this with an assortment of smaller holes to accommodate the hook of a bungee.
My preferred box restraint mechanism is a cam strap, rather than the supplied velcro.
I've previously mentioned the only-slightly-surprising discovery that woodworking clamps are ideal for clamping bits of wood (load) to other bits of wood (trailer), when buying wood.
(http://www.ductilebiscuit.net/gallery_albums/cycling/IMG_20130306_160727.sized.jpg)
-
the required bed timber thickness depends on what load you intend to carry, how strong the bottom of the box is and how many rails there are in the chassis of the trailer. I'd be tempted to break out the welding set and add a couple of rails to the chassis and maybe use marine ply ~12mm thickness, or even no ply at all if you intend to use the box always. It'll probably need to be thicker ply than that (or reinforced with screwed+glued timber ribs perhaps) without additional rails in the chassis.
I thought this trailer would have to fold....? That is a big box!
cheers
-
The frame I've got is steel and not going to win any awards for being lightweight - given how hilly Lancaster is, it would be good to keep the weight down on the platform where possible.
The wheels will be easy enough to remove, and if the box is removable too, then that's fine storage-wise. No need to get any more foldy than that, and I don't think that would be possible anyway without serious frame re-workings.
The box will be useful for food shopping and maybe participatory workshop scenarios. I wouldn't be surprised if it has to carry a sewing machine at some point, and loads of random metal and wood (nice work with the clamps, Kim!) are all par for the course.
Additional chassis crossbars would be a good move, I think, but welding access is still unlikely. Probably they're retrofittable to a certain extent, or it might be possible to bolt something on.
I'm trying to remind myself that a) in its original form there was just a thin layer of cloth supporting a couple of small children and b) wood can always be replaced if necessary.
Thought: I suppose I'm going to have to contrive to make it D-lockable as well.
-
<Mad idea>
Given that Lancaster's hilly and some of those loads sound pretty heavy, but that you're "way too young" for an e-bike, and given the cost of an e-bike and the possible desire or need to use this trailer with multiple bikes, how about a small electric motor on the trailer? To be controlled from the bars of the rider's bike via some gadgetry.
A powered trailer. What could possibly go wrong?
</Mad idea>
Sane idea: rather than a D-lock, a decent chain would be more flexible in the types of things you could lock it to, would be able to secure wheels and frame, and shouldn't require modifications to frame etc.
-
<Mad idea>
Given that Lancaster's hilly and some of those loads sound pretty heavy, but that you're "way too young" for an e-bike, and given the cost of an e-bike and the possible desire or need to use this trailer with multiple bikes, how about a small electric motor on the trailer? To be controlled from the bars of the rider's bike via some gadgetry.
A powered trailer. What could possibly go wrong?
</Mad idea>
Like all the best mad ideas, it's an existing product. https://ridekick.com/
Sane idea: rather than a D-lock, a decent chain would be more flexible in the types of things you could lock it to, would be able to secure wheels and frame, and shouldn't require modifications to frame etc.
I just lock one of the (removable!) wheels of the trailer to something with a cable-lock. Admittedly, I'm just popping into the shop, rather than leaving it all day outside a university. I never came up with a good way to secure the plastic box.
Standard Carry Freedom security enhancement for touring: Replace the hitch pin (and probably the one attaching the hitch arm to the frame, unless you opt for a nut and bolt) with an appropriately-sized padlock.
-
<Mad idea>
Given that Lancaster's hilly and some of those loads sound pretty heavy, but that you're "way too young" for an e-bike, and given the cost of an e-bike and the possible desire or need to use this trailer with multiple bikes, how about a small electric motor on the trailer? To be controlled from the bars of the rider's bike via some gadgetry.
A powered trailer. What could possibly go wrong?
</Mad idea>
Like all the best mad ideas, it's an existing product. https://ridekick.com/
500W in a trailer? No, nothing bad could happen. And it'll carry a briefcase? Very useful for $849.
Sane idea: rather than a D-lock, a decent chain would be more flexible in the types of things you could lock it to, would be able to secure wheels and frame, and shouldn't require modifications to frame etc.
I just lock one of the (removable!) wheels of the trailer to something with a cable-lock. Admittedly, I'm just popping into the shop, rather than leaving it all day outside a university. I never came up with a good way to secure the plastic box.
Standard Carry Freedom security enhancement for touring: Replace the hitch pin (and probably the one attaching the hitch arm to the frame, unless you opt for a nut and bolt) with an appropriately-sized padlock.
A decent length chain should be able to go through frame and at least one wheel. I doubt if the box on its own is particularly attractive to thieves and you could always carry it with you if you were worried about it. Well, maybe. It is kind of big.
Ha, you could put castors on the bottom of the box and tow it behind you like a suitcase. Castors would fit into cut outs in the plywood, so not rolling around on the trailer.
-
Given that the route to campus has spent some of the last week under water, maybe a paddle wheel attachment and use the big box as a flotation aid?
The box has castors - they're not in the photos because they weren't helping things stay where I wanted them.
Standard Carry Freedom security enhancement for touring: Replace the hitch pin (and probably the one attaching the hitch arm to the frame, unless you opt for a nut and bolt) with an appropriately-sized padlock.
Noted: thanks!
-
<Mad idea>
Given that Lancaster's hilly and some of those loads sound pretty heavy, but that you're "way too young" for an e-bike, and given the cost of an e-bike and the possible desire or need to use this trailer with multiple bikes, how about a small electric motor on the trailer? To be controlled from the bars of the rider's bike via some gadgetry.
A powered trailer. What could possibly go wrong?
</Mad idea>
The KMX guys built one back in 2002/3 and had it at one of the Cyclemagic events in Leicester - it was a flat bed with bateries and motor below, IIRC. I remember one of them 'surfing' on the trailer behind one of the junior KMX Kart trikes. ;D
Given that the route to campus has spent some of the last week under water, maybe a paddle wheel attachment and use the big box as a flotation aid?
The big trailer I built from a section of scaffold tower could be used to tow the 8ft pedal boat that I built, but it could also be fixed behind the boat, floats added, and the towing bike fixed to a 'roof-rack bike rack' on the trailer. So you could tow the bike on the trailer with the boat. :smug:
-
The big trailer I built from a section of scaffold tower could be used to tow the 8ft pedal boat that I built, but it could also be fixed behind the boat, floats added, and the towing bike fixed to a 'roof-rack bike rack' on the trailer. So you could tow the bike on the trailer with the boat. :smug:
That's impressive! How much in the way of extra floats does a big trailer built from scaffold tower require?!
-
I was not allowed to try it out, but the trailer was about 15kg, plus the weight of the bike - probably another 15kg.
The pair of floats were ones I was given, and I would guess they were 30-40 litre displacement, each.
These floats...
(https://i.ibb.co/fnCKyhS/float.jpg)
Which fitted this trailer...
(https://i.ibb.co/rM3Drp8/boattrail.jpg)
That would have gone behind this boat
(https://i.ibb.co/bmyD99R/mouseped.png)
-
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50368086553_b8dee306b2_c.jpg)
Big box doing sterling work as a small workbench.
Getting there...
-
As I am getting low on stock of the trailer hitches I use, and gave a trailer to a local lad starting a gardening business, I looked for a better supplier of the M10 releasable ball joints I use.
I got some from this company, and they seem pretty good - wondered if you are interested Nikki, if you want a quick to hitch/unhitch solution to the attachment issue.: https://www.wdscomponents.com/en-gb/steel-quick-release-ball-joints-wds-557/c-431/p-2078/v-15136
-
As I am getting low on stock of the trailer hitches I use, and gave a trailer to a local lad starting a gardening business, I looked for a better supplier of the M10 releasable ball joints I use.
I got some from this company, and they seem pretty good - wondered if you are interested Nikki, if you want a quick to hitch/unhitch solution to the attachment issue.: https://www.wdscomponents.com/en-gb/steel-quick-release-ball-joints-wds-557/c-431/p-2078/v-15136
A quick to hitch/unhitch solution sounds appealing but I have to confess I have no idea how that joint works!
nikki, are your electric tools duelling?
heh! My German supermarket brand drill's battery went kaputt, so the uni's DeWalt would definitely win!
-
A quick to hitch/unhitch solution sounds appealing but I have to confess I have no idea how that joint works!
I googled it...
I'd have to do a fair bit of construction to make a bracket that attaches one bit to the bike and the other to the trailer, wouldn't I? I think that's going to be beyond what tools I've got access to atm.
-
I trailered the trailer yesterday!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50545606821_3e9a11f0f2_c.jpg)
Needed some encouragement to get out of the studio...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50544876573_73996b3bda_c.jpg)
(But it did fit in the goods lift.)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50545743272_b345326060_c.jpg)
Bins!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50544858803_9b7008fabb_c.jpg)
I'm already fed up with faffing with the QR each time I attach and detach the trailer, and I've ordered some rubber feet to use as locating gubbins on the base of the box to prevent it drifting into the wheel.
The bike's not very stable when it's all parked up (although it was pretty windy yesterday), so I'm also pondering some sort of stand for the front of the trailer so I can detach it and still have it horizontal to function as a useful surface during workshops.
-
top job!!
-
Thanks!
The old maxim "it'll be nice when it's finished" :-)
-
:thumbsup:
-
Very smart 🤓 👌
-
:thumbsup:
Need a wider studio door...
-
In the absence of a studio ceiling that doesn't let water in from the floor above, they're moving us to different studios. The next one has a double door - just lots of narrow and corner-y stuff to get to it...
-
From someone who spent almost 50 years working in engineering, "Most impressive bit of fettling" :thumbsup:
-
A quick to hitch/unhitch solution sounds appealing but I have to confess I have no idea how that joint works!
I googled it...
I'd have to do a fair bit of construction to make a bracket that attaches one bit to the bike and the other to the trailer, wouldn't I? I think that's going to be beyond what tools I've got access to atm.
I took a couple of photos at the weekend, when I had the trailer in use - The attachment to the bike used a couple of inches of angle-iron, and tools used were hacksaw, file, centre-punch and drill (plus a vice). Although attachment to the trailer involved welding a M10 bolt into a bit of tube, I could have just drilled a 10mm hole through at 90deg to the tube, and put a bolt through.
(https://i.ibb.co/TtpQksK/IMG-2216.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/rt2t6Sw/IMG-2218.jpg)
-
Thanks for the photos Wobbly John (and for the various positive responses, everyone else!).
I decided to just suck it up this time and get the Carry Freedom hitch.
I'm really looking forward to getting out and about with it. Oh...
-
I'm really looking forward to getting out and about with it. Oh...
Daily food run. Plus essential research.