b+m IQ Fly Plus instructions

[handcyclist]

 ..... say 'do not use the dynamo cable already provided on the bicycle'  - why not?

and 'do not cut off cable - just shorten it to the required length' - WTF does that mean?

 

[handcyclist]

To clarify the question, I reckon it's all H&S / product liability bollockspeak, they just don't want you shorting anything by imperfect wiring and claiming it was their fault. So, assuming I'm capable enough to check the polarity outa the dynamo, why shouldn't I use the bike's original cable at the length that suits the frame?

[Greenbank]

'do not cut off cable - just shorten it to the required length'

At a guess I'd say it means either loop it around the frame tube or fold it up and tape/ziptie to take up the excess rather than cutting it and redoing the spade terminals.

[handcyclist]

Gotcha.

But is there any reason not to use the cable that's in the frame already?

Does it have to be a specific length for instance?

[leeg]

I don't read instructions very closely so just cut the cable coming out of the light to the correct length and my IQ Fly has been working OK for a month now.

I even managed to remove the front wheel pulling the cables out of the spade connectors the first time I used it.  I just poked them back into the rubber sleeves and its still working (reminds me that I should fix that properly).

Is there a correct way round to connect the wires to the dynamo or have I just been lucky so far?

[handcyclist]

Is there a correct way round to connect the wires to the dynamo or have I just been lucky so far?

A 'dynamo' chucks out AC - so it should make no difference which way it's hooked up to a two wire installation. If the frame is being used as an earth return, it would make a difference if the lamp's is already earthed via its mounting. Don't think that would apply with the IQ, which as a plastic body.

[rogerzilla]

I thought they were hardwired, and you *had* to use the light's own cable?

[delthebike]

I thought they were hardwired, and you *had* to use the light's own cable?

You still get light if you wire the spades directly, but you bypass the switch if the light is a Senso Plus. A good thing if the original, in built, cable breaks as you can use a spare.
OP: It means do not entirely remove the in built cable but cut it to length if it is too long. They want you to wrap it around handy forks or bundle it up and tape it.

[rogerzilla]

Ah...I see now.  I just ignored the spade terminals, as I use a battery rear light.

[clarion]

Slightly OT, but I was looking at Thing2's IQ Fly as we were running along the riverbank near Kew last night.  Great beam.  I need one.

[handcyclist]

I thought they were hardwired, and you *had* to use the light's own cable?

You still get light if you wire the spades directly, but you bypass the switch if the light is a Senso Plus. A good thing if the original, in built, cable breaks as you can use a spare.
OP: It means do not entirely remove the in built cable but cut it to length if it is too long. They want you to wrap it around handy forks or bundle it up and tape it.

The one I just bought is the 'N' model, it has no built in cable, just a supplied spade terminal/bare end wire and two sets of spade terminals for dynamo and rear light - I'm guessing they are in parallel, since they aren't marked and the diagram in the instructions only refers to 'current' and 'earth'.

[edit] oops got that wrong, see below

[andrew_s]

The one I just bought is the 'N' model, it has no built in cable, just a supplied spade terminal/bare end wire and two sets of spade terminals for dynamo and rear light - I'm guessing they are in parallel, since they aren't marked and the diagram in the instructions only refers to 'current' and 'earth'.

The 'N' model is the one with a basic mechanical switch for a hub dynamo, but no standlight or senso function. There's no "senso" unit to bypass, so the normal spade terminals are all that's needed.
There should be embossed symbols to separate the earth and live/current terminals. On the Oval I just checked they are one side only, and not right next to the terminals.

[handcyclist]

Actually, on checking, I have the 174QDi model for bottle dynamos. not the 'N'. Standlight but no sensor or switch. Hence no permanent cabling I guess.

It still seems to me that there is no reason for not using the wiring already in my frame - and since it's ac current, it doesn't matter one iota which way the terminals are connected? 

[Maladict]

The statement about connecting earth/power the correct way around is quite correct, it doesn't matter which way it flows, but it does matter that it flows through the lights rather than through the frame and straight back to source.

If you use a non-earthed dynamo like the SON, however, this should not apply, and connection polarity can be either way around.

[handcyclist]

Ok, thanks, it's an all plastic body so no earth return, and the existing cable is two wires so no problems I can foresee.

Cheers, hc.

[Von Broad]

Actually, on checking, I have the 174QDi model for bottle dynamos. not the 'N'. Standlight but no sensor or switch. Hence no permanent cabling I guess.

Do you have a hub or bottle dynamo?

[Edit - opps, looks like you just answered my question!]

I was in Warlands [good shop that] in Oxford today and was chatting to the owner about the IQ fly. I'd heard there was a hub version and a bottle version of the light after I bought mine [just by accident I have the hub light], and seeing them hang up in the shop was enquiring about the difference between the two. He was told by Ambra Marketing [who import B&M gear] that it's important not to use a bottle light with a hub dynamo, as the electronics are slightly different and can lead to damage.

Having said that, I've used my hub light on an old Union bottle and it worked ok.

Search me.

I know that's not your issue, but I offer it here anyway  

[handcyclist]

It's an AXA HR dynamo - bottle.

I seem to remember a forum post elsewhere with a quoted email from the B+M importers saying the same thing about not mixing the types. Can't see why - surely both chuck out 6V AC? The only difference you'd want with a hub dyno would be an on/off switch wouldn't it?

[Maladict]

I think RichForrest is using an unswitched one he bought from me, possibly with a hub dynamo.

I don't know if they make the electronics substantially different between the normal and N versions; I can't see why they would tbh since standardising the electronics would save on development and manufacturing costs.

[RichForrest]

No I have 2 bottle dynamo ones, one with a standlight.
2 wires from dynamo to light, I've cut one wire also and it works fine.

I've got a hub dynamo but have yet to build it onto a wheel, would a switch put somewhere between on the wires work instead of a switched light.

Rich.

[Maladict]

I've got a hub dynamo but have yet to build it onto a wheel, would a switch put somewhere between on the wires work instead of a switched light.

Rich.

Yes