if you insist on running tyres which have the structural integrity of a second-rate condom all winter long, presumably you can congratulate yourself on 'a lack of punctures' if you run tubeless and the sealant actually works.
But I would say that if you choose tyres that are more appropriate to the conditions, you would not be getting many 'annoyance' type punctures anyway. Does it really make a blind bit of difference if you run a 'performance tyre' on your training/commuting bike in the winter? I'd argue 'definitely not'... [arguably you will get fitter by riding a slower bike, won't you...?
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FWIW I run tyres (in the winter and for utility/training purposes) that are typical 'training tyres' on the front and something slightly more durable on the rear. I run my tyres a lot longer than most folk do and I would say that on average I get a couple of punctures in each tyre before they are headed for the bin. So the tyre and tube come on and off the rim two or three times over the life of the tyre. With carefully chosen tyres and rims this is easier and takes a lot less time than changing a tubeless tyre even once.
With the right tyre and rim, a fresh tube can be fitted and you can be on your way in a couple of minutes. For me this happens maybe once or twice a year, only, and I do thousands of miles in all conditions; not as many miles as some I am sure but plenty enough.
The other aspect is that a significant fraction (maybe a third?) of the punctures that I get (and see happen to others) are 'game over' punctures, where the tyre is rent asunder, with a gash that is so bad that a fresh tube and a boot is needed as a get-you home measure, whether you are running tubeless or not. [BTW out of curiosity I have run tyres with various different boots in to destruction and not all boots are made equal by any means.]
But the point is that if this happens to a tubeless tyre (or even a normal tyre on a tubeless rim), it is a real bloody performance to get yourself up and running again; you need to wrestle the (overly tight) tyre off the rim, deal with all the sticky crap inside the tyre, get the valve stem out the rim (another nightmare in the making, usually requiring pliers...(!!
) before you start, and you still need to boot the tyre and fit a tube etc. A tube that is more likely than normal to get pinched because the tyre is such a tight fit and a boot that is less likely to stay put because of the sticky crap....
So I'd argue that if you are getting very many punctures in normal tyres, maybe you are running the wrong tyres for the conditions. If you are getting 'a normal' number of punctures, there is little if any advantage net in using tubeless tyres. Using normal tyres on tubeless-compatible rims is perhaps the worst of all worlds, i.e. it is just making more work for yourself than is necessary.
cheers