Presta valve lock rings

[Blodwyn Pig]

Interesting thread on CTC forum regarding the knurled valve lock rings, and how some folks never use them. The argument is that in a quick deflation scenario, the restrained valve can be torn out of the tube by the time you stop. Well funnily enough I had a quick  deflation yesterday, t’was a large flint and perfectly repairable, but on inspection the valve was half torn out, but not leaking, so I binned it as it was the front one. So tomorrow I’ll loosen off / remove the lock ring. Any one else heard of this? Must admit it had never occurred to me.

[Feanor]

My objection to them came from when I was on a 300k DIY some years ago.

I had to deal with a p*ncture, and I could not remove the old tube from the wheel.
The lock ring had seized to the valve stem most severely.
I had to use the chain-breaker doo-hicky on my multi-tool as a makeshift mole-wrench to unscrew the thing.
I thought that once I'd broken the seize, it would then spin off easily enough, but no.
I had to clamp it and turn it by 30 degrees one million times.
Took me about an hour.

On any bike where there's a lock-ring, I now either remove it, or every time I pump some air into the tyre, give the lockring an experimental twiddle to ensure it's removable.

[robgul]

The only useful lockrings are the ones that have a flange to enable a Presta-valved tube to be seated in a Schraeder-valved rim - and even then the benefit is dubious.

[Blodwyn Pig]

I’ve added a poll. 

Also what about the plastic caps, do you still use them as well, must confess, most time I try to take them off , it unscrews the inner core, which is a pain, despite tightening the inner core with small pliers first.

[Auntie Helen]

I once ended up having to take a taxi as I got a puncture in my trike and the lock ring on the Schrader valve had frozen to the valve. It was indeed a very cold day.

 I tried with all the tools in my tool bag to unscrew it but no luck.

The taxi for the 4 km home cost me £15, this was over 12 years ago, and it really annoyed me so I always remove the locking ring now after I have pumped the tyre up.

[rogerzilla]

Either put them on the inside of the rim, or throw them away.

[T42]

The only useful lockrings are the ones that have a flange to enable a Presta-valved tube to be seated in a Schraeder-valved rim - and even then the benefit is dubious.

Zackly.

[IanDG]

I voted never use them - but sometimes use them as Robgul suggests when using presta tubes in schraeder drilled rims.

[D.A.L.E.]

On tube valves, never. For reasons already stated. The only benefit they serve (for me) is (sometimes) they stop an annoying rattle. In which case I'd use tape or an o-ring. No idea why you would put them on loosish?

(As mentioned) Continentals lockrings are a step up for a Schrader drilled rim, which can be handy.

Also what about the plastic caps, do you still use them as well, must confess, most time I try to take them off , it unscrews the inner core, which is a pain, despite tightening the inner core with small pliers first.

Only for storage, like what they're designed for. Stops the metal pokey bit touching the soft rubbery bit. And Blodwyn (and others) - get yourself a valve core tool for the saddlebag - Cheap or not cheap.

[grams]

The one time they’re useful is if you have a barely-long-enough valve for the rim and a crappy rubber clamp on pump that needs something to grip on.

[Kim]

The one time they’re useful is if you have a barely-long-enough valve for the rim and a crappy rubber clamp on pump that needs something to grip on.

This.

Also the Schrader hole thing.  Agree about the dangers of doing them up too tight.

As for (Presta) valve caps, I use the on the Reasonably Priced Mountain Bicycle, on the basis that the valves spend a statistically significant amount of time covered in mud.  Otherwise, I only use them on spare tubes, to stop the pointy end of the valve causing visitations in transit.

Schrader valve caps are another matter entirely.

[Cudzoziemiec]

What's the mechanism that causes a rapid puncture to rip out the restrained valve? Presumably the rest of tube must be moving, rather rapidly and rather far, but I find it difficult to envision the scenario.

[Kim]

I've had that happen a couple of times on the Streetmachine, which suffers from a suspension system good enough that on a rough road it's entirely possible to ride for some distance unaware that your rear tyre is flat.  Presumably the tube-ripping happens when torque is applied to the wheel through acceleration or braking.

[yoav]

They're dead useful as washers if you need something a bit thicker than a normal washer.

[De Sisti]

Valve lock-ring and top-cap.

[nextSibling]

Stopped using them as a messenger 30+ years ago (no time for that faffing). Never caused a problem in decades.

On the other hand, pretty essential for tubeless setups.

[Genosse Brymbo]

Just buy Michelin Airstop tubes because these don't have the unnecessary lock rings.  Fit these inside your Michelin tyres 

[Socks]

They're dead useful as washers if you need something a bit thicker than a normal washer.

And if you need something a bit thicker, there's always the local Tory MP

[drossall]

Well I use them systematically on all my wheels

[mzjo]

They are dead useful for fitting nutted brakes to bikes with holes for sunken tube nuts.Usually needs a bit of a cleanout of the thread to allow the ring to slip over the brake bolt.

[quixoticgeek]

Use them, and do them up enough that they don't come lose in normal riding. If I don't then the valve rattles..

It's bloody annoying.

I also have dust caps, with a Schrader to presta adapter fitted to both valves.

J

[SpaceBadger]

They're dead useful as washers if you need something a bit thicker than a normal washer.

And if you need something a bit thicker, there's always the local Tory MP

I see you live Round Here, too. Commiserations.

[Cudzoziemiec]

They are dead useful for fitting nutted brakes to bikes with holes for sunken tube nuts.Usually needs a bit of a cleanout of the thread to allow the ring to slip over the brake bolt.

Yes, and mudguards.

[Paul H]

And Blodwyn (and others) - get yourself a valve core tool for the saddlebag - Cheap or not cheap.

A chain splitter is usually the same size and even cheaper if you already have one.

[Paul H]

The argument is that in a quick deflation scenario, the restrained valve can be torn out of the tube by the time you stop. Well funnily enough I had a quick  deflation yesterday, t’was a large flint and perfectly repairable, but on inspection the valve was half torn out, but not leaking, so I binned it as it was the front one.

I can't visualise what would have happened if you hadn't had a nut fitted.  Presumably the tube was rotating and the valve prevented it, wouldn't that still be the case without a nut? Or would it drag the stem into the wheel?
I use them, mainly because I've never thought about not doing so, they aid the initial fitting and inflation and I might remove, repair and re-fit mid ride so it's useful to have it there.