Author Topic: Help with frame related questions  (Read 300024 times)

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #500 on: 16 November, 2022, 10:36:47 am »
Thanks Dave, much appreciated. Its made it as far as the west end of Newcastle so I'm happy to keep in in the North East.

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #501 on: 11 May, 2023, 07:37:19 pm »


Trying very hard to not buy this... Shed any light on this Dave?

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #502 on: 13 May, 2023, 12:42:57 pm »
Sorry, without a frame number and size it is just another frame. If you can get said details I can help with  date and other limited details. I might have the original order form but unlikely as most of them were lost in a flood when we moved from Wallsend
It's not just hitting it with a hammer but knowing where to hit it and how hard

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #503 on: 13 May, 2023, 01:20:43 pm »
Fair. I was just looking for any clue as to what it was/when it was from. I can make out Machine on the top tube and that's about it. Will update if I buy it. Cheers.

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #504 on: 26 May, 2023, 11:10:02 am »
is it possible to change the steerer tube on some forks from 1 inch to 1 1/8 inch? or is that not good for the forks' longevity? Saw some 853 touring forks that I was thinking of maybe using on a bike frame. thanks

rogerzilla

  • When n+1 gets out of hand
Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #505 on: 26 May, 2023, 11:33:01 am »
Impossible.  You'd need a new crown with a 1 1/8" steerer socket, so you'd be rebuilding the entire fork.
Hard work sometimes pays off in the end, but laziness ALWAYS pays off NOW.

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #506 on: 26 May, 2023, 04:07:16 pm »
Ok thank you for telling. Learnt something new, though now I look at it, it is simple

rogerzilla

  • When n+1 gets out of hand
Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #507 on: 27 May, 2023, 12:18:15 pm »
There are reducing rings that allow you to use a 1" fork in a 1 1/8" head tube but there's little point; a 1 1/8" fork is stiffer where it matters.  Most 1 1/8" forks are threadless and most 1" forks are threaded, just to throw in an extra complication.

Quill stems look nice, and most of my bikes have them, but a threadless setup is technically much better and you can really feel the extra stiffness.  A quill stem is only attached at its very bottom and moves a lot during riding.  You can tell this from the way a freshly fitted quill stem pumps grease out of the headset top nut!
Hard work sometimes pays off in the end, but laziness ALWAYS pays off NOW.

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #508 on: 01 June, 2023, 12:28:17 pm »
Any idea of the frame manufacturer that puts the serial number on the seat post part of the frame and the number start with NG.

The frame has a Raleigh head badge.

EDIT: It is a nottingham built 1974 raleigh. From here https://www.jaysmarine.com/TH_raleigh_serials.html

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #509 on: 24 June, 2023, 02:53:50 pm »
Does anyone know about the Joe Waugh M Steel bicycle frame numbering?

Bought this and people have mentioned that it looks very like an M steel build bike.

The frame number starts with mf, so is it an M steel bike, is there anyway I can tell?

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #510 on: 27 September, 2023, 09:28:40 pm »
Hola, me llamo David, soy de España y tengo un cuadro JOE WAUGH y busco información,
pero nunca he usado un foro y no sé cómo poner fotos El número de cuadro es MS379
Gracias!

Blodwyn Pig

  • what a nice chap
Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #511 on: 21 January, 2024, 04:24:35 pm »
Hj Dave , are you still there?  Am I right in thinking you built Pearson frames?  If so I have one, 22" 531 ST , 120 spacing at the rear, cantilevers, no upper rack mounts, no fork mounts, I'm thinking late 70's.Untitled by mark tilley, on Flickr
by mark tilley, on Flickr

I think that says 1713
The cantilever bosses appear to be cubes rather than post where they attached. One of yours?

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #512 on: 04 May, 2024, 09:31:47 pm »
Hj Dave , are you still there?  Am I right in thinking you built Pearson frames?  If so I have one, 22" 531 ST , 120 spacing at the rear, cantilevers, no upper rack mounts, no fork mounts, I'm thinking late 70's.Untitled by mark tilley, on Flickr
by mark tilley, on Flickr

I think that says 1713
The cantilever bosses appear to be cubes rather than post where they attached. One of yours?

Hi Mark

Just found this, I sometimes get notifications about posts but in this instance not !
Alas, not one of ours. 1713 was an Audax frame built late Jan  1986 which was long before we started building for Pearsons. All the components of the frame look fairly generic for the late 70s there were a few builders turning out stuff like this around that time
It's not just hitting it with a hammer but knowing where to hit it and how hard

Blodwyn Pig

  • what a nice chap
Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #513 on: 04 May, 2024, 11:10:33 pm »
Ok thanks Dave, out of interest, how does 1713 relate to late Jan ‘86 ?

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #514 on: 05 May, 2024, 08:16:51 am »
The main number sequence starts with the first frame I built in 1976, 001. It continues through to 11553, a Condor, the last frame I built at Steel's in 2005. There were a couple of  subsidiary sequences over the years, about 20 to 30 of the first 753's had a number starting DY753. All the Flying Scot frames we made for Dales in Glasgow were prefixed FS and I seem to remember some  touring frames had the prefix MS. All the Condor frames had their own number stamped on the bb but were logged in our system under our number. I still have the original order books apart from a few pages missing from the first one although I do remember the first one I made at the workshop in East Howdon was 072. Given a number I can give date ordered, date invoiced, type, tube and size. We lost most of the original order forms in a flood just as we were moving out of the Wallsend workshop in 2005. I reckon that, including all the frames made here in the last 18 years I have made, persoally, about 4000 and been responsible for around 15000 all told.
It's not just hitting it with a hammer but knowing where to hit it and how hard

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #515 on: 16 May, 2024, 04:24:00 pm »

Hello,
I have Flying Scot FS1845. It's my favorite bike lately.  On the Flickr Flying Scot group a person posted that he was told "7 or 8 guys" built the later day Flying Scot frames.  Is that true? Would we recognize these builders?

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #516 on: 16 May, 2024, 08:21:19 pm »
Hi Dana
FS 1845 is indeed a frame built for Dales in March 86 by us at M Steel Cycles.  The chap that said he was told the Dales Flying Scots were built by "7 or 8 guys" was told wrong!!  All the Dales Flying Scots were built by M Steel Cycles, I have never counted how many but I would reckon at least a couple of hundred. They were built to our standard designs apart from some custom jobs, all had the FS prefix on the number and many had SCOT engraved vertically on the seat stay top eyes.
Glad to hear yours is still going strong after 39 years ;D
It's not just hitting it with a hammer but knowing where to hit it and how hard

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #517 on: 20 May, 2024, 01:54:29 pm »
I came across this lopro frame recently and wondered if it was one of yours? I know GS Metro had some association with M Steel, and this frame has M Steel on the crossbar but I don't think the frame nuber is one of yours. Frame No. 247190.

gsm 2 by guzzijohn, on Flickr

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #518 on: 20 May, 2024, 04:35:37 pm »
Hi John

Not one of ours, I'm pretty sure I did not make any low pros with a bent down tube and the number certainly is not ours. Sorry, cant shed any light on it
It's not just hitting it with a hammer but knowing where to hit it and how hard

guidon

  • formerly known as cyclone
Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #519 on: 21 May, 2024, 11:31:15 am »
I'm currently trying to fathom out whether to repair or skip  a bike I bought recently.....It's a Daniel Salmon mtb (I live in Brittany so its is local)...
It's bent - from the saddle it turns normally to the right but dangerously quick to the left!
So the question is the back end....The wheel is standard: at the brake mounts it is centered but at the chainstays - 6.5 mm out! the front forks are also distorted by 3mm front to back although the wheel pulls them back into line...
It seems also that the downtube is bent in a couple of mm from about 200mm above the bb.......This all seems to point to a severe smack on the bb area yet the seat post appears straight....
Options :1. Attempt to press the bb area straight(er)  2. send it off to a frame repair specialist (however its ikely to be several times what the bike is worth, also involving shipping to the UK and customs etc) 3. Strip it and skip it...(chalk it up to being stung and in a hurry to get to work)

Your verdicts and opinions please............
 

Re: Help with frame related questions
« Reply #520 on: 22 May, 2024, 08:23:55 am »
Hi Guidon
Not familiar with the make, is it a local custom builder, larger French producer, badged far eastern ?  What is it made of? By "down tube" are you actually referring to the seat tube? A frame that pulls to one side usually  indicates that the forks are at fault and your comment about it being "3mm" distorted points in that direction. A picture or two would be useful. Check the dish on your back wheel, a badly built wheel is often the culprit with back end issues. Check the frame tracking by tying a piece of string to a rear dropout then forward, around the head tube to the opposite dropout. Measure the gap between the seat tube and the string on both sides, it should be the same, if not the rear end needs re setting.
On the basis of what you have said I would get the forks checked and possibly straightend and try it again.

Cheers

Dave Yates
It's not just hitting it with a hammer but knowing where to hit it and how hard