Could this be fixed?

[mcshroom]

I'm deliberating about a new singlespeed/fixed and I was looking at a Pompino, but while looking around at alternatives I noticed a Trek 4th District on Evans Cycles. It's a bit unusual with a alu frame and carbon fork, but does take guards and have a sensible looking geometry.

What looks very strange to me, though, is the rear dropouts


It looks like they are vertical dropouts, but the whole assembly moves backwards and forwards (on both sides) for tensioning. Is this assembly as weird as I think it is? Also do you think it would work fixed?

[rogerzilla]

It would be fine, if a little over-engineered.  I think it's designed for belt drive, where you need some means of getting an endless belt around the chainstay.

[Chris N]

Yep, belt drive-ready: http://trekdistrict.com/2008/10/belt-tensioning/
Would be just fine fixed.

[Crumbling Nick]

I've no doubt it would work with a fixed gear. Weird & over-engineered for that purpose perhaps, but probably as sound as the rest of the frame (no irony intended).

It's less than ideal for the routine chain-tensioning task & a bit worse if/when you want to flip the wheel to change gear during a ride. 6 fasteners and 2 tools is a hassle IMHO. On the positive side, it's better than track ends for wheel removal aka fairy visitations.

[rogerzilla]

Of course, any track ends are harder than front-facing fork ends if you have mudguards.  You either have to leave unfashionably large clearance between the mudguard and the tyre, or carry an 8mm spanner to undo the eye bolts.  Or remove and refit the wheel with a deflated tyre, which is possible if you plan ahead.

[Pickled Onion]

It's hard to tell from the picture but is looks like the contraption has vertical dropouts which in theory should make taking the wheel out easier - my new frame has full length horizontal dropouts and the (28mm) tyre needs to be deflated, smaller tyres might squeeze out inflated.

I'm not sure how easy it would be to get the wheel back in if the chain is properly tensioned - would you need to loosen the tensioning bolts? If so it would be quite a pain.

[Tewdric]

Of course, any track ends are harder than front-facing fork ends if you have mudguards.  You either have to leave unfashionably large clearance between the mudguard and the tyre, or carry an 8mm spanner to undo the eye bolts.  Or remove and refit the wheel with a deflated tyre, which is possible if you plan ahead.

Or use the SKS safety clippy thingies.

[Tomsk]

I'm not sure how easy it would be to get the wheel back in if the chain is properly tensioned - would you need to loosen the tensioning bolts? If so it would be quite a pain.

My Kona 'A' mtb has a similar arrangement - designed as a singlespeed, but with an Alfine 8 on it now. Vertical drop-outs make it easy to put the wheel back just so and no chain tensioning needed. Only issue is now the thick but rather soft alloy slots have worn 'prefered' positions for the bolts: can be a pain to set the chain tension just right, depending on the amount of wear in the chain affecting it's position.

[mcshroom]

Well I confirm it does work fixed. The cog fits fine and the bike seems happy with pedal braking.

However at the moment I don't seem to.

Next question, how the hell do learn how to start and stop fixed? My aborted first ride involved being almost pushed out of the saddle when clipping my second foot in (apparently I launch with my right leg and then use the freewheel for a little bit while I find and clip in with my left) and scared myself trying to slow down to the point where I unclipped both feet and wobbled to a stop.

Er is there a beginners fixed riding thread anywhere? Also would it be better if I didn't try to use the same gear as my singlespeed (69") and went lower, or lower the seat a bit? (feel like a complete noob again).

[clarion]

What sort of pedals do you use?  I'd recommend SPDs as easiest.  You can start with one foot (in my case, the right) clipped in, then the pedal can come round to meet your foot on the upstroke.  If you're not in by TDC, you're still OK to push and maybe you'll slot in anyway.

69" is a reasonable gear to learn on.  I'd go for something slightly lower, like about 65", but that gets very spinny very quickly, and that's worse. 

If you ride SPDs, then unclipping is not as bad as you think it is.  If you're slowing anyway, your legs will be turning slower than you imagine, and you can unclip one foot good and early.

[mcshroom]

The bike has double sided SPDs on it, so I should be ok on that front.

I also have an 18t cog as well as the 17t I fitted which would give me a 65", I might try that.

What I found rather disconcerting when I was going was that for some reason was sure the bike was going to chuck me at the deck.

I think I'm just going to have to have a few goes at it and get over a few mental hang-ups. I'm also going to have to unlearn the way I always stop (which involves coasting to a stop) and how I start.

[tiermat]

Find a flat, quiet, bit of road or park.

Practice.

Practice a bit more.

Practice some more.

It'll happen and just feel right, when it feels right. This might take a day, might take longer, but persevere!

[Deano]

Flat pedals, or pedals with toeclips, can be a useful learning tool - you can get on and pedal without the extra clipping in bit to worry about.

Otherwise, as clarion says, don;t worry too much about getting clipped in at the first stroke, just stomp down and you're away. The constantly turning pedals can be useful - use that motion to your advantage, rather than fighting against it.

Unclipping, I find that the best place is at the top of the stroke, but that may be personal preference.

Lowering the seat could help a bit with spinning, but I wouldn't worry about that unless/until it becomes an issue.

Aye, practice. You'll be trackstanding in no time.

[phantasmagoriana]

It gets easier with practice! I did the wobbling to a stop and unclipping both feet thing the first time I tried, too, and was mildly terrified of stopping at junctions. I didn't think I'd ever get used to it either, but I don't have to think about it any more (and I still coast to a stop on my geared bikes, so I haven't unlearned that!).

FWIW I started with 69" and moved to 65" because I wanted to have some hope of getting up hills. It's a bit spinny downhill, but I don't mind that.

[Deano]

69" is probably about right, though you may want a little bit lower for steep up hills. I'd stick with it until you get the hang of spinning.

[mcshroom]

Well just had a slightly more successful go this time. I wore normal trainers so didn't need to worry about clipping in, and did a few laps of my street (there's a loop). I must have done about 30 starts and stops (which will have confused the neighbours).

Now I can start ok, but I'm still having to spend a long time slowing down and stopping as I'm not comfortable. At least I'm not jumping off both pedals now

I think it will be a while before I switch over and try any hills though.

[Pickled Onion]

What's wrong with jumping off both pedals?

http://bikesnobnyc.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/off-back-how-to-dismount-your.html