Changing the Freewheel on a Longstaff Cyclon

[Zaxx2]

Hello All,

This is my first post on this forum - I hope it's in the right section!

Back in Early November I purchased a Longstaff 'Cyclon' MTB conversion Trike, I presume it's a early 1990's model since it has a 5-speed Shimano freewheel drive system and is a OWD, It wasn't in the best condition (which made the ride home with it interesting) so I decided to give it a overhaul / upgrade to 7 speed before using it properly, I've asked Longstaff for info and so far the the best I've got back is that they haven't made 5-speed OWD Cyclons for a while and would see if they could identify it...

 My regular commuting ride is a Catrike Expedition, while fun to ride and relatively quick, it's not suited to British Winter / Wet Weather, especially on the Rural roads through the Surrey hills... Hence Why I got the Longstaff!

But I digress, back to the the point of this post, how do you change the Freewheel?

On my Longstaff, if you take out the Allen bolt in the middle (same size as a crank bolt) then the hub comes off, leaving the axle in place.

I gather from what I've read that to remove the freewheel on a OWD Longstaff you just undo the inner M5 Allen bolt in the centre of the freewheel and then this is removed with its carrier from which you can remove the Freewheel.

However, I've done this and there isn't enough room to remove the Freewheel...

Anybody any ideas as to how to remove the Freewheel?
Has anybody else here changed a 5 speed freewheel to a 7 speed on a Longstaff Cyclon?

Wayne

[mtrike]

On my yeti because of the double freewheel  I can't get the freewheel off because of lack of room in the cage.  However if you remove the driven wheel you should be able to see a circlip inside the axle tube.  Remove this and release the freewheel Allen bolt completely.  There may also be a grub screw locating the bearing and this needs removing as well.  You can then remove the axle although this is easier if you refit the wheel first.  As you do this the freewheel should fall out.  If it is this tight in the cage tho will a 7 speed fit?  It also a bit of a fiddle fitting the freewheel back and locating the Allen bolt.  Depending on how tight the clearances are you may need to remove the non driven axle first and send down a long extension to remove the Allen key holding the freewheel - I have to.  The owd is so much easier.

[Zaxx2]

Thanks mtrike, I was wondering if/ how you removed the axles, however I was hoping not to have to mess with the axles just yet, looks like I'll have no choice now..

 There is plenty of room for the freewheel to move to the non drive side for removal it's just not enough to slip the carrier off the axle, since we are talking mm's here, I'm wondering if the drive axle has some how drifted a bit towards the non drive side?

I'm reasonably sure a 7 speed freewheel fit as there is physically enough room and the extra cogs on the 7 speed Shimano Freewheel I have seem to both at the large cog end so will just over lap the freewheel carrier, of course I can't be 100% until I can remove the 5 speed freewheel completely.

I know what you mean about  the Allen Bolt being fiddly to get too, I can just about manage it with a long reach ball head Allen key.

Just out of interest would you recommend upgrading to TWD?

[tatanab]

I will pm you an exploded view of the axle.  George published this some years ago.  It is for the old two wheel drive that Mtrike has but the principle is the same.

Beware - when tightening the little grub screws note that their purpose is to stop the bearing outer rotating, so they need to be just tight enough to do that.  Tighten them too much and you will distort the bearing which will not run so smoothly.

Modern two wheel drives are nicer, and a lot lighter.  They are cassette based with a purpose made "freehub" with 2 sets of pawls instead of the 2 Maillard frewheels of old.

Two wheel drive is the way to go, but remember that the Cyclon is/was a budget machine based on standard frames from Raleigh etc to suit.  Conversion to TWD would be an expensive job (about £300) so you have to ask yourself if it is worthwhile.  Either Longstaff or Trykit Lightweight Racing and Touring Tricycles and Conversions could do the work.

[mtrike]

[quote author=Zaxx2 link=topic=45948.msg907438#msg907438

I know what you mean about  the Allen Bolt being fiddly to get too, I can just about manage it with a long reach ball head Allen key.

Just out of interest would you recommend upgrading to TWD?
[/quote]

I don't think the axle could have drifted as the wheel hub will foul the bearing if the spacing washer is missing and I can't think of another way the position could drift as the axle length fixes the spacing.  I should have added do not misplace the washer/spacing piece it is not a standard size and looks hand made so not easily replaced.   
I use the yeti off road and in the snow so I need twd.  However if you ride on the road I'm not sure I can see an advantage.  On the road Longstaff I occasionally have problems on steep damp hills but this is rare and I don't feel the need to change from owd although two rear brakes would be good.

Trikit and Longstaff both do adaptors for owd trikes that allow the use of a cassette replacing the freewheel .  This is a simple replacement for the freewheel carrier.  You might have problems fitting one if the spacing is tight but they should be able to advise on this.

The mechanics are really quite simple and being able to lie the trike on it's side helps working on it.