Zipp disc wheel right angle inflator

[Feanor]

A new Zipp disc rear wheel is supplied with a right-angled doo-da to allow you to get a pump attached onto the valve in the cut-out in the wheel...


Zipp right angle inflator by Ron Lowe, on Flickr

This appears to be a 2-piece thing.
I'm quite unable to get it to seal in any useful way.

There's a short stem which screws onto a presta valve, with an end which looks like it should be crimped onto a hose!
But the end that screws onto the presta valve has no sealing elements at all, just a thread.

Then there's the right-angle thing which looks like a small weed pipe.
It has a rubber seal in the valve-facing end, and a schrader-sized thread at the pump end.

How in the name of hell are you meant to use this?

The short stem doesn't seal properly against either the valve or the right-angle extension.

The right-angle extension on it's own Just About seals against the valve on it's own, if you leave out the short stem, but only if you have four hands and gorilla grip strength to clamp it in place and operate the pump at the same time.  There's no clamping lever or anything.

It all seems to be a PoS to me, but perhaps I'm doing something wrong.

I might buy something like this, which looks like it threads onto the valve allowing me to operate the pump with my remaining 2 hands:
https://www.topeak.com/global/storage/app/media/download/product-manual/Pressure-Rite%20Presta%20Valve%20Adapter/pressureriteprestagb0813.pdf

[Kim]

The latter looks like the quick-click Presta head on the Prestaflator, which is just a rubber washer seal that presses down onto the Presta valve (to be fair, if you're using a Prestaflator it's reasonable to assume that you have one hand to hold the chuck and one to operate the trigger, with the job of supplying the compressed air farmed out to something non-human-powered).  The washer is a wear component, so it starts off quite stiff, works well for a while and eventually starts to leak until you replace the washer.

No idea where the little widget comes in.

[LittleWheelsandBig]

It looks like a cheap valve extension.

[giropaul]

Find the exact size of Allen key that slips between the connector and the hole in the disc and holds it tight on.
Otherwise travel with a willing helper with strong fingers.

[Feanor]

It looks like a cheap valve extension.

That's what I thought, but it's not.

Valve extensions are externally threaded on the tube end, with a wee o-ring, to fit into the place where the original valve core was.
And are internally threaded on the pump end, to accept the valve core which has it's own wee o-ring.

This item has none of these features, and has no function I can imagine.

It has an internal thread on the tube end, and so screws on *over* the existing valve core, but with no actual sealing mechanism other than the thread.
The pump end is just as you see, a stub that looks like it needs a hose crimped onto it.

[Feanor]

Find the exact size of Allen key that slips between the connector and the hole in the disc and holds it tight on.
Otherwise travel with a willing helper with strong fingers.

The inside of the disc appears to be rather delicate foamy stuff, and I won't be using it to lever the chuck against the valve!

I'm coming to the conclusion that they have just thrown some cheap and nasty thing into the bag for completeness, with no intention that it actually be used.

[LittleWheelsandBig]

Cheap valve extensions don't reposition the valve core like more expensive extensions do. The brass knob is left undone all the time.

Most right angle adaptors don't have a lever mechanism as there isn't enough room in the wheel cutout. Usually you hold the adaptor in place with one hand and pump with the other. Otherwise, ask a friend for assistance. I used a Silca adaptor that replaced the normal leverlock head completely but some adaptors can be used in conjunction with a normal leverlock head.

[Feanor]

Cheap valve extensions don't reposition the valve core like more expensive extensions do. The brass nob is left undone all the time.

Ah, right. OK.
And the cheapness extends to there being no sealing mechanism other than the threads where it screws over the existing valve core?

[rob]

I gave up on valve extenders and just use tubes with 60mm valves which put the valve in the right place to utilise the crack pipe.

I replaced the HED crack pipe with a Silca one that my track pump will grip.   As LWaB says you need to hold it in place with one hand and pump with the other.   I can get to 100psi like this.   Alternatively ask someone to hold it in place while you pump or the other way round.   

Do not forget to carry it round in your toolkit.   See also sticky patches to cover the hole up before you race.

[LittleWheelsandBig]

Use plumber's tape on cheap valve extensions. The best option is of course long valves but they didn't exist for a long time, hence extensions.

[Karla]

Crack pipes are also a pain.  For a few extra squid over the cost of the crack pipe you can get a pump head that is designed to fit in the hole in your disc wheel - and then as Rob says you just use tubes that put the valve in the right place. 

KCNC make one for £35.  I haven't used it but have some other KCNC bits and they're all well made.
Some guy on TTF will sell you one that is a bit more expensive - this is the one I have as the KCNC one wasn't made when I bought mine.
Hirame make one that is more expensive still.
Lezyne make one that you need to hold on, but I think it screws onto your pump hose if you have a Lezyne pump, so you can switch it back for a Schrader head if you need.

[Feanor]

Thanks all.

The rear wheel came supplied with a tube, which I used.
It was not a *very* long valve ( I didn't measure it ), as the cut-out in the wheel is close to the rim.
So the valve is already in the 'right' place without messing about with extensions.
So I will ignore the cheap extension supplied.
The crack pipe is truly an awful PoS, but it will do for now till I get something better.

The front wheel did not come with a tube, but it did come with a 'proper' extension and a wee plastic tool for removing and replacing the valve core.
It's a very deep section, and requires a proper long valve.
This extension is quite long, and when used with an already long valve (didn't measure either) it's actually a bit too long.
I will use a different configuration when I have to replace the tube; either a long valve ( if there exists one long enough for this rim ), or a shorter valve with the extension.

[rob]

I think the Zipp disk is solid so probably won't effect you, but beware dropping the crack pipe inside the disc.    Took bloody ages to get it back out which made the morning before a TT a little more stressful than it should have been.

[Frank9755]

Crack pipes are also a pain.  For a few extra squid over the cost of the crack pipe you can get a pump head that is designed to fit in the hole in your disc wheel - and then as Rob says you just use tubes that put the valve in the right place. 

KCNC make one for £35.  I haven't used it but have some other KCNC bits and they're all well made.
Some guy on TTF will sell you one that is a bit more expensive - this is the one I have as the KCNC one wasn't made when I bought mine.
Hirame make one that is more expensive still.
Lezyne make one that you need to hold on, but I think it screws onto your pump hose if you have a Lezyne pump, so you can switch it back for a Schrader head if you need.

I have the Hirame one.  Sometimes you buy something and think I need this but it is really expensive. This was, but it is so good that it was worth it.  Much better than any other pump head I've had.

[Feanor]

The devices in the links above all look fine, but they appear to have *hose* attachments at the input end; ie they are replacements for the existing head, which I didn't want to do.
I want to leave the existing head on my track pump.

I bought the Topeak Pressure-Rite I linked to in the OP.
It's exactly what I wanted.

It screws onto the valve in the cutout, thus requiring zero hands or gorilla grip to hold it there.
It has a proper O-ring seal, so air doesn't piss out.

The pump end is a presta thread, and you now have both hands free to use any of your preferred inflation devices: Track or hand pump, with either lever-lock or screw-on head, CO2 inflator, Bellows, re-purposed bagpipes or whatever.

It Just Works, and is smaller and lighter than the stupid crack pipe.

[Kim]

Crack pipes are also a pain.  For a few extra squid over the cost of the crack pipe you can get a pump head that is designed to fit in the hole in your disc wheel - and then as Rob says you just use tubes that put the valve in the right place. 

KCNC make one for £35.  I haven't used it but have some other KCNC bits and they're all well made.
Some guy on TTF will sell you one that is a bit more expensive - this is the one I have as the KCNC one wasn't made when I bought mine.
Hirame make one that is more expensive still.
Lezyne make one that you need to hold on, but I think it screws onto your pump hose if you have a Lezyne pump, so you can switch it back for a Schrader head if you need.

For completeness, let's add: https://www.prestacycle.com/product/prestacycle-right-angle-quick-click2-disc-wheel-head/

[Frank9755]

The devices in the links above all look fine, but they appear to have *hose* attachments at the input end; ie they are replacements for the existing head, which I didn't want to do.
I want to leave the existing head on my track pump.

I bought the Topeak Pressure-Rite I linked to in the OP.
It's exactly what I wanted.

It screws onto the valve in the cutout, thus requiring zero hands or gorilla grip to hold it there.
It has a proper O-ring seal, so air doesn't piss out.

The pump end is a presta thread, and you now have both hands free to use any of your preferred inflation devices: Track or hand pump, with either lever-lock or screw-on head, CO2 inflator, Bellows, re-purposed bagpipes or whatever.

It Just Works, and is smaller and lighter than the stupid crack pipe.

Only problem is that it doesn't do what you want it to do, which is where things like the Hirame come in.  They do all of the above and also do it on disc wheels.

[Feanor]

The devices in the links above all look fine, but they appear to have *hose* attachments at the input end; ie they are replacements for the existing head, which I didn't want to do.
I want to leave the existing head on my track pump.

I bought the Topeak Pressure-Rite I linked to in the OP.
It's exactly what I wanted.

It screws onto the valve in the cutout, thus requiring zero hands or gorilla grip to hold it there.
It has a proper O-ring seal, so air doesn't piss out.

The pump end is a presta thread, and you now have both hands free to use any of your preferred inflation devices: Track or hand pump, with either lever-lock or screw-on head, CO2 inflator, Bellows, re-purposed bagpipes or whatever.

It Just Works, and is smaller and lighter than the stupid crack pipe.

Only problem is that it doesn't do what you want it to do, which is where things like the Hirame come in.  They do all of the above and also do it on disc wheels.

I'm not sure I understand your reply.

It does *exactly* what I want it to do.
It turns the inaccessible presta valve through 90 degrees, providing an accessible inflation point, which is compatible with any of my air sources, and it screws in place so I don't need to use any hands to hold it there.

[Frank9755]

The Hirame and similar fit into the hole on a disc wheel and clamp on to a (presta) valve leaving you with two hands to operate a track pump.  Essentially, they combine the function of the standard pump head and a crack pipe.  I'm not familiar with your specific wheel but it is all I need to inflate my disc - no angled extenders, crack pipes or other workarounds.

[Feanor]

Yes, but the input is a hose / jubilee clip fitting.

You need to replace the head of your track pump with it.
Which I don't want to do.
I want my track pump to retain it's existing Presta / Schrader head.

There's no way to attach a CO2 inflator to it either.

What I like about the device I posted is that the input is a Presta connector, not a hose / jubilee clip.
So I can use my existing pumps / CO2 inflators or whatever.