Author Topic: New shimano hub adjustment  (Read 1103 times)

quixoticgeek

  • Mostly Harmless
New shimano hub adjustment
« on: 17 April, 2018, 12:16:58 pm »

I've had my new DEORE XT FH-M8000 hub built into a wheel, spinning it in my hands, there's a certain roughness, and it occasionally sticks. This seems to be common with shimano hubs and I'm used to adjusting the cones on a new hub. But this hub confuses me, there is a slot on the non drive-side that a cone spanner can fit in, but on the other side, there is such slot. Interestingly the axle seems to have what looks like a slot for an allen key to fit.

Can anyone offer any guidance on how one goes about adjusting such a hub's cones?

J
--
Beer, bikes, and backpacking
http://b.42q.eu/

Re: New shimano hub adjustment
« Reply #1 on: 17 April, 2018, 03:37:07 pm »
step 1 is to get yourself a big swear jar ready; you will be using it. The bearing adjustment is meant to be easier but in reality it is a lot less easy to

Take a look at the EV techdoc and all will become clear

http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FH-M8000-3866.pdf

Basically you need to hold the RH end of the axle, hold the LH cone with a cone spanner, and use an allen key to unscrew the LH axle end which works as a locknut.

The correct adjustment is to leave a tiny bit of free play in the bearings, such that the free play just disappears when the QR is used to tighten the wheel in the frame.

The really annoying thing is that as well as the usual trial and error (which can usually be avoided by employing a hub vice), one has to refit the QR either with the wheel in the frame or with spacers to simulate  the dropouts, before the bearing adjustment can be verified.  This means it takes a fair bit longer to adjust the bearings correctly; there is (AFAICT) no possibility of a hub vice that replicates the QR loads on the axle, since the QR occupies the same space as is needed for the allen key which tightens the locknut.

Because of this alone I won't be buying any such hubs anytime soon, although some folk won't buy them anyway because there was (or is) a design fault in the freehub body which means that plenty of them have broken at low mileage.

cheers

quixoticgeek

  • Mostly Harmless
Re: New shimano hub adjustment
« Reply #2 on: 17 April, 2018, 03:42:46 pm »
<snip helpful useful advice>

Because of this alone I won't be buying any such hubs anytime soon, although some folk won't buy them anyway because there was (or is) a design fault in the freehub body which means that plenty of them have broken at low mileage.

Oh... That's not good to hear... I'm hoping to do 2000km on this hub in the next 3 weeks...

I'll give the rest a go over.

J
--
Beer, bikes, and backpacking
http://b.42q.eu/

Re: New shimano hub adjustment
« Reply #3 on: 17 April, 2018, 03:58:29 pm »
in fairness heavy duty MTBing brought out the worst in them and they say they have fixed the problem now. I have not heard of reports of such failures very recently.

AFAICT the pawls have two 'ears' on them which the springs locate into. If the freehub bearings are at all slack the pawls can sit at angle when under load and this can (because the pawls were not ground to the right shape to avoid it) load up one of the 'ears' so that it can snap off. Then the broken piece can cause trouble and in addition the pawl can escape its seatings and cause the freewheel to freewheel in neither direction, and perhaps even the freehub body to explode.

If you google 'broken XT freehub' there is lots to horrify you, eg



In most such failures the sprockets hold the mess together and you don't lose drive, so you can ride home perhaps, but the freewheel doesn't work. This means that you can carry on riding but you cannot freewheel, even for a fraction of second.  If you have to go far like this, it is probably better to shorten the chain and to run as a singlespeed, otherwise the top run of the chain will go in the spokes if it runs slack, even briefly.

Annoyingly the XT freehub design ought to be stronger (having more, wider pawls, set on a larger diameter) but in reality it is just more likely to break.  If there is any slack in the freehub  bearings, I think this failure is made far more likely.

cheers