Brake levers and electric motor.

[nobby]

The brake levers that come with my Bafang motors are great thick nasty things that each incorporate a cut out to switch the motor off when you brake.
I am not co-ordinated enough to use a lever to switch the motor off momentarily while I changed gear (Alfine 11 IGH) so bought a press for off switch instead and fitted better brake levers.
That works ok on my upright for gear changing and  I can hold the button down to switch the motor off as I brake to slow.

As I change my ICE Q to electric I am wondering if that will work. The brake levers fit 'upside down' and it is going to be difficult to fit the button where I can reach it and pull the lever at the same time.
Is there another solution or is not pedalling as I brake enough?

I understand that Cycleman uses tractors and narrow bridges over streams for emergency halts but I am not sure they are going to be reliably in the places that I need them 

It's hard this electrickery and my head spins! 

[Torslanda]

The shut off of the Bafang is almost instantaneous. Around 0.25 sec.

As long as you don't pedal (forwards) while braking you won't need a cutout switch.

[Frank9755]

The cut-out is quick (assuming it's a pedelec motor) but 0.25sec of motor power would still increase stopping distance a bit.

I once bought some switches that I was going to solder into normal brake levers to make my own cut-outs.  It would have been a fiddly job but a good solution - but my need disappeared before I got round to doing it. 

I agree that the stock brakes with cut-outs are clunky but could you possibly come to terms with them?  They would give the best solution without resorting to DIY.

[Torslanda]

The levers on Cycleman's Trice were almost identical to the standard Tektro units. IIRC the only discernible difference was the blades being silver. Less obvious when they get road rash...

[Kim]

What's the gearing?  If it's derailleurs you'll probably cope just by stopping pedalling.  It's hub gears needing you to ease off the power completely that are the problem.

I'd certainly try it without them and see if it's workable.

Failing that, some cunning arrangement of reed switch and magnet could probably bodged to pretty much any brake system.

[cycleman]

Don't worry nobby, there are plenty of options for stopping in Wolverhampton  . Lorries. , cars. , trams canals. , pedestrians  ect  . Problem solved   

[nobby]

Don't worry nobby, there are plenty of options for stopping in Wolverhampton  . Lorries. , cars. , trams canals. , pedestrians  ect  . Problem solved   

You're right Chris. Yam -yams leaping out of dark corners all over 

[nobby]

What's the gearing?  If it's derailleurs you'll probably cope just by stopping pedalling.  It's hub gears needing you to ease off the power completely that are the problem.

I'd certainly try it without them and see if it's workable.

Failing that, some cunning arrangement of reed switch and magnet could probably bodged to pretty much any brake system.

It is hub gears. I'll try without first because 0.25 second doesn't sound a lot.

[Auntie Helen]

I have the Bafang on an ice Sprint.

Mine takes at least a second to stop the motor when I stop pedalling. I use the brake cut out when changing gear (I also have an Alfine 11). The tiniest dab on the brake with my left hand whilst shifting with my right. Works well for me and I don’t find the brake levers too awkward.

[nobby]

I have the Bafang on an ice Sprint.

Mine takes at least a second to stop the motor when I stop pedalling. I use the brake cut out when changing gear (I also have an Alfine 11). The tiniest dab on the brake with my left hand whilst shifting with my right. Works well for me and I don’t find the brake levers too awkward.

Hi Aunty H
I have used the information on your blog (and admired the cake pics) a lot and thank you for making it available.
Using your method on my upright I couldn't co-ordinate well enough not to lose significant speed in the gear change which was unwanted when going up hill, but a second would be too long to be braking against the motor in an emergency brake so I'll have to rethink this.
I have found this on eBay - 1.8M Mechanical Disc Brake Cut Off Sensor Switch Cable for Electric Bike ZY - which is available for handlebar or disc but I can't work out how either works from the small pictures.

[Kim]

I have found this on eBay - 1.8M Mechanical Disc Brake Cut Off Sensor Switch Cable for Electric Bike ZY - which is available for handlebar or disc but I can't work out how either works from the small pictures.

I'm guessing it's a magnet and (because it's a three-wire connection that requires power) a hall sensor.  I expect it fits in-line with the cable like a barrel adjuster, the magnet clamps to the inner cable, and the sensor detects it moving within the body of the unit.

[nobby]

I have found this on eBay - 1.8M Mechanical Disc Brake Cut Off Sensor Switch Cable for Electric Bike ZY - which is available for handlebar or disc but I can't work out how either works from the small pictures.

I'm guessing it's a magnet and (because it's a three-wire connection that requires power) a hall sensor.  I expect it fits in-line with the cable like a barrel adjuster, the magnet clamps to the inner cable, and the sensor detects it moving within the body of the unit.

Thanks Kim.

[Torslanda]

Slightly OT. Can you run an Alfine in a 'pre-selector' style? i.e. Click the shifter for the next gear and ease off allowing the shift?

I remember vaguely that Sturmey hubs would operate that way on the upchange, accelerate hard in 1st, click for 2nd whilst at full pressure then ease off slightly to let the hub shift. Rinse & repeat.

Or is it risking mechanical mayhem? Asking for a friend . . .

[nobby]

Slightly OT. Can you run an Alfine in a 'pre-selector' style? i.e. Click the shifter for the next gear and ease off allowing the shift?

I remember vaguely that Sturmey hubs would operate that way on the upchange, accelerate hard in 1st, click for 2nd whilst at full pressure then ease off slightly to let the hub shift. Rinse & repeat.

Or is it risking mechanical mayhem? Asking for a friend . . .

You are supposed to be able to shift under power with an Alfine but I've always eased off because that's how you did it with SA.
Can't say as I remember your SA method from the past.

[Torslanda]

I never broke one but it only worked changing up! Only had a 3-speed roadster for a few months before I got a bike with Disraeli gears. Not ridden one in nearly 40 years either.

[Kim]

Last cable-operated^[1] Alfine I rode was an 11, and it certainly did the thing of ignoring up-shifts until you eased off.  Whether you can buffer your shifts in a predictable way like you can on a Sturmey, I couldn't say.


_{[1] DI2 Alfine Nexus 8 makes nasty noises if you try this shit.  Presumably the servo's a bit more insistent than the cable return spring.}