Author Topic: Drilling through a galvanised water trough to provide a plugable drainhole hole?  (Read 2581 times)

slope

  • Inclined to distraction
    • Current pedalable joys
Following on from all the helpful replies to a previous thread. The new 'Bateman' 8' galvanised water trough I bought doesn't have a drain plug (the 'IAE'manufacturered ones state theirs does ::-)).

I'd very much like to have the ability to empty and 'refresh' the water periodically* (free water supply from a Welsh mountain spring :)). It's being used to soak willow for basketmaking and as such might? benefit from not getting too contaminated and stale? Unlike cows???

I'd also like to provide an overflow just under the rolled top edge of the trough (which might mean a drain plug won't be necessary as the water will get natural replenishment from Welsh skies)

What do the panel suggest re drilling holes, rust prevention, sealing and types of bung/hardware?

*tipping to empty the trough full of ~400l water is not going to be at all easy as it will be mounted on 3 supports some 450mm off the ground.

Aunt Maud

  • Le Flâneur.
Galvafroid is your go to friend for rust prevention.

Oscar's dad

  • aka Septimus Fitzwilliam Beauregard Partridge
I don't know why I am offering advice as I know fuck all about water troughs but how about SOMETHING LIKE THIS designed for boats (about which I know a little)?

any breach in the galvanising will be prone to corrosion unless you choose your materials/sealing compounds carefully. Take a look at how horse/cattle troughs are done; IIRC all the fittings that are required are added before the thing is galvanised.

It might be that plastic fittings with rubber washers and lots of silicone grease might work well enough for you.

On the other hand just baling the thing (eg using a bucket, until is about 1/4 full and can be tipped) or syphoning (walk away and leave it until it is empty) might not be such a big deal depending on how often it needs doing. You might want to tip it up to clean it anyway.

cheers

You will need a hole saw that can cope with (presumably) steel. Oh and use a punch to stop the bit skidding everywhere when you start.

https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/holesaws/cat5920018
I think you'll find it's a bit more complicated than that.

robgul

  • Cycle:End-to-End webmaster
  • cyclist, Cytech accredited mechanic & woodworker
    • Cycle:End-to-End
My experience is with troughs for horses ... and my 2p would be to suggest a valve rather than a plug as the latter will let water by, however slowly.  A valve would give a positive shut-off.

rob

I suggest putting off punching holes in your lovely galvanizing for a while, and instead relying on syphoning to empty it. You just need a short length of hose.
<i>Marmite slave</i>

slope

  • Inclined to distraction
    • Current pedalable joys
I suggest putting off punching holes in your lovely galvanizing for a while, and instead relying on syphoning to empty it. You just need a short length of hose.

or syphoning (walk away and leave it until it is empty) might not be such a big deal depending on how often it needs doing. You might want to tip it up to clean it anyway.

I think you and Brucey have provided the simplest resolution :)

Many thanks to everyone's helpful suggestions and useful information too  :thumbsup:


Feanor

  • It's mostly downhill from here.
I suggest putting off punching holes in your lovely galvanizing for a while, and instead relying on syphoning to empty it. You just need a short length of hose.

Sooking a mouthful of fousty water to prime the syphon!

Oh Nom Nom Nom!  Somebody Stop Me!

fuaran

  • rothair gasta
Or a submersible pump would be quicker, if you have a power supply. Though most pumps won't drain it completely, they would leave a few cm in the bottom. You would need to syphon it, or tip it up if you want to empty it all.

Kim

  • Timelord
    • Fediverse
I suggest putting off punching holes in your lovely galvanizing for a while, and instead relying on syphoning to empty it. You just need a short length of hose.

Sooking a mouthful of fousty water to prime the syphon!

Oh Nom Nom Nom!  Somebody Stop Me!

Skanky fish tank maintenance top tip:  Fully immerse the short length of hose in the water.  Tilt until all the air comes out.  Stick thumb over one end.  Remove that end from tank and place below water level.  Remove thumb.  Observe functioning siphon with no sucky-sucky.

Feanor

  • It's mostly downhill from here.
I suggest putting off punching holes in your lovely galvanizing for a while, and instead relying on syphoning to empty it. You just need a short length of hose.

Sooking a mouthful of fousty water to prime the syphon!

Oh Nom Nom Nom!  Somebody Stop Me!

Skanky fish tank maintenance top tip:  Fully immerse the short length of hose in the water.  Tilt until all the air comes out.  Stick thumb over one end.  Remove that end from tank and place below water level.  Remove thumb.  Observe functioning siphon with no sucky-sucky.

Yes, that would work.

Sorry, Brucey, didn't see your response.

Kim's syphon technique will work. I have used that to empty many water troughs.
<i>Marmite slave</i>

Kim's technique will work and it's how we empty our aquariums but my farming experience says it's no fun sticking your hands in the trough when its dark, pissing it down and the water's just above freezing point. I think I'd buy a syphon pump example https://www.screwfix.com/p/laser-fuel-transfer-tool-8mm/85358

edit: not a model recommendation, lots of others available

Assemble the following:
gear / brake cable.
Onto this thread a washer slightly smaller than the bore of the hose, with a hole small enough that the nipple won't pull through.
Thread a piece of closed cell foam which has a snug fit in the bore of the hose, onto the cable, so that it butts up against the washer.
Insert the assembly into the hose, with the foam plug just inside the collection end.
Immerse this end in the tank - you might need a second pair of hands to ensure it stays immersed
In one deft movement, pull the cable assembly right through the hose, until the foam plug and washer emerge from the delivery end.
The water will follow.
No sucky-sucky
+ water emerging at pressure 
The faster you pull the cable through, the more pressure you'll have  :thumbsup:

Kim

  • Timelord
    • Fediverse
On that basis, I bet the tampon-tied-to-a-brake-cable arrangement I use for de-gunking chain tubes would start a siphon reasonably well.

Aunt Maud

  • Le Flâneur.
Or for lesser mortals.........

Go inside and fill the hose up via the hot tap, then go outside and stick one end in the trough and un-thumb the other and water will gush forth.

You could always drill a hole in the bottom of the trough and put a tap on it.

If you have a siphon hose rigged up (cable tie it to a suitable lump of something heavy in the bottom of the trough), you can put a tap/valve on the output end. Just open the valve to start siphoning.
<i>Marmite slave</i>

On that basis, I bet the tampon-tied-to-a-brake-cable arrangement I use for de-gunking chain tubes would start a siphon reasonably well.
As it expands to fill the available envelope, my guess is that would work well, possibly better than a lump of closed cell foam.