New Build for mixed surface riding.

[morbihan]

I'm having a new bike built up to do some distance stuff that will largely be used off road, but primarily not into MTB territory.
Multi day endurance stuff such as the Divide type routes.
I have discounted a mountain bike, not being a fan of flat bars and wanting to be able to cover more ground expeditiously when the trails allow.
Ive largely based the geometry around a Rando bike I had built up that is extremely comfortable for super long days.
The new rig will have much more tire clearance though. (57mm 700cc) and a higher BB.
The HT angle will allow for a gravel suspension fork, but In not installing one, at least initially.
Ive gone with 2 x gear set up to allow a greater range. Its similar to my random gearing but with a slightly bigger top gear. There is clearance round the stays to install this with mtb cranks.

In terms of additional compliance, I know nothing of  suspension seat posts and stems, but would welcome the additional comfy ride.
Any feedback from YACF'ers who use them? Also do they limit your options with installing bike packing gear or is there a way to still rig them?
Thx.

[mike]

the redshift elastomer-fitted stems are quite good, a few friends use them when the ground is very dry and hard, they're on my eventual upgrade list for my gravel bike.  No issue that I've heard about with luggage!

[LittleWheelsandBig]

How are the Redshift stems any improvement on the Proflex Flexstems of last century? They were a right pain with drop bars because the leverage changed depending on where your hands were on the bars and the bars rotated as the stem flexed. The Allsop Softride parallelogram stems solved both those issues at the cost of more money and pivots.

[Paul H]

I use a Thudbuster ST (Short Travel) on an E-bike that was previously a harsh ride, I think partly due to the very stiff frame but also from sitting more on it and pedalling less.
Works great, exactly as claimed, forget about it till you ride the same rough road without and notice the difference. Not sure how much difference adding luggage weight to the saddle would make, it'll only be a small percentage increase and there are different elastomers for different rider weights.

[L CC]

I have a thudbuster ST seatpost on the audax tandem (though I don't sit more nor pedal less- honest) mostly because I can't see the road in front of the wheel and react to it. I'm short legged and there's only just enough room for it. I certainly wouldn't be able to put anything on my seatpost. I don't know how much difference it really makes- as soon as you add suspension anywhere some of your effort is going into bounce rather than powering wheels forward.
Just curious- why are you ruling out flat bars? I'm quite loving mine on the commuter for stability descending on shitty road surfaces- by which I mean badly repaired subsidence on steep hills. My drop bars are quite narrow though, so it's a bigger difference than it might be for a bloke on those fugly splayed gravel drops.

[ElyDave]

I'm very happy with my suspension seatpost on my Faran, there's enough room to let me attach the tailfin

[perpetual dan]

How are the Redshift stems any improvement on the Proflex Flexstems of last century? They were a right pain with drop bars because the leverage changed depending on where your hands were on the bars and the bars rotated as the stem flexed. The Allsop Softride parallelogram stems solved both those issues at the cost of more money and pivots.

I suspect the main difference is availability

But, as the owner of one I'd say that with shallow drops, maybe different (and tuneable) elastomers to before, and using it on somewhat rough ground - the change in position is small enough to be acceptable.

If the ride really needs a suspension fork then this isn't the solution. But for a bit of a softer ride than just tyres and bar tape gel provide - it's a bit smoother. Also my wallet is lighter, which must help?

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[LittleWheelsandBig]

I have Allsop and Proflex stems in my possession but no Redshift stem, so availability for me might be the reverse of your experience.

http://www.bikepro.com/products/stems/girvin.html
If you think this is a long-travel stem, think again. There were multiple durometers available back in the day and you can still get new elastomers.

http://www.bikepro.com/products/stems/soft.html
The Al version actually works pretty well but look for the 'zigzag top', rather than the recalled tubular top section. The Fe version tended to wear out pivots because of corrosion.

[morbihan]

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.
I did get a view else where by a bike fitter that the susp seat posts mess up your bike fit. I'm not overly convinced as I move around a fair bit especially as I use flats.
I will hold off initially though, and try a suck it and see approach with a regular ti post.
If it turns out that the bike is too bone shaking on the trails I'll see if I can track down a ride with a susp. post that's already installed and have a feel of the difference.

[Blodwyn Pig]

But Shirley running 700c x 57 tyres your pressure would only be 40 psi ish, so should be quite compliant, negating the ‘bone jarring’.?

[morbihan]

But Shirley running 700c x 57 tyres your pressure would only be 40 psi ish, so should be quite compliant, negating the ‘bone jarring’.?

 You may well be right. I'll be running 55's at about 35 psi, so yes lots of cushion there. Having said that they will likely be endurance casing (due to the terrain) so thicker sidewalls and  consequently a less cushy ride than the extra light version of the tyres that I run on my Rando bike.
A couple of the events Im looking at do tend towards front suspension though, so Im after extra insurance rather than switching out the fork.

[ElyDave]

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.
I did get a view else where by a bike fitter that the susp seat posts mess up your bike fit. I'm not overly convinced as I move around a fair bit especially as I use flats.
I will hold off initially though, and try a suck it and see approach with a regular ti post.
If it turns out that the bike is too bone shaking on the trails I'll see if I can track down a ride with a susp. post that's already installed and have a feel of the difference.

I can't see why the bike fitter would be saying that, if you get the seat post set up correctly in terms of preload for you weight, then there should be no bobbing under normal pedaling.  When you are hitting the rough stuff is when you would be moving around more in any case.  Having fitted one to my gravel bike/tourer I just don't see it.

[morbihan]

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.
I did get a view else where by a bike fitter that the susp seat posts mess up your bike fit. I'm not overly convinced as I move around a fair bit especially as I use flats.
I will hold off initially though, and try a suck it and see approach with a regular ti post.
If it turns out that the bike is too bone shaking on the trails I'll see if I can track down a ride with a susp. post that's already installed and have a feel of the difference.

I can't see why the bike fitter would be saying that, if you get the seat post set up correctly in terms of preload for you weight, then there should be no bobbing under normal pedaling.  When you are hitting the rough stuff is when you would be moving around more in any case.  Having fitted one to my gravel bike/tourer I just don't see it.

good to know thanks.

[Frank9755]

How are the Redshift stems any improvement on the Proflex Flexstems of last century? They were a right pain with drop bars because the leverage changed depending on where your hands were on the bars and the bars rotated as the stem flexed. The Allsop Softride parallelogram stems solved both those issues at the cost of more money and pivots.

I don't know as I never used one of those but I did check out some reviews which said the redshift worked a lot better before I bought one a few years ago.  Also it's designed mainly for road use so not sure if it's appropriate for this.

I've been pretty happy with it. I've just used it for the TCR, and hands are in better condition than after previous long rides. Mostly I don't notice it is there, but it helps on bumps, potholes, and bits of gravel.

It doesn't make a massive difference but I don't notice any negatives from using it.

[Frank9755]

Are you having a custom frame built?  I hope not but fear it sounds like you are. In which case make sure your frame builder has done, ideally loads of, the type of riding you want to do on the type of bike you want.

I'd start by identifying the events you want to ride it in and look at what bikes and what kit people are using now.

[morbihan]

Are you having a custom frame built?  I hope not but fear it sounds like you are. In which case make sure your frame builder has done, ideally loads of, the type of riding you want to do on the type of bike you want.

I'd start by identifying the events you want to ride it in and look at what bikes and what kit people are using now.

That's a yes Frank, the guys who have built my other bikes. They have built a fair few off road orientated bikes as well as MTB's and everything in between.

I have had a look at the set ups of other riders bikes in the events, but there is pretty wide disparity between them all. Some I imagine is what people have available or what they are familiar with.  The French seem to be very oriented towards MTB on the events Im looking at, (in France)  maybe a cultural thing. Im really resistant to flat bars, upright ultra riding.
The endurance bike I have used on TCR's could be used on some of the events, particularly by someone bendier, younger than me. It would be short in the wheel clearance department and need the gearing swapping out.
I'm getting older and less supple too so looking to future proof.


Thanks for the feedback of the suspension seat post, that's encouraging.

[Sergeant Pluck]

Multi day endurance stuff such as the Divide type routes.

Is Q factor something you need to consider, for avoidance of knee issues etc.? If so 2x11 GRX may be worth looking at - Q factor not much more than road (2.5mm per side) and depending on pedal choice (e.g. XTR with -3mm spindles) you can bring it down road width.

[morbihan]

Multi day endurance stuff such as the Divide type routes.

Is Q factor something you need to consider, for avoidance of knee issues etc.? If so 2x11 GRX may be worth looking at - Q factor not much more than road (2.5mm per side) and depending on pedal choice (e.g. XTR with -3mm spindles) you can bring it down road width.

I have gone with 2x with some Grx components Sgt P. for the gear ratio I wanted.  Paired  WI mountain crank, partially for aesthetics; I really don't like the look of the GRX cranks (though that's a personal thing) but also because they are glued together. I have the same set up on a Rando bike and it works well, though this one will have a slightly higher top gear.

[Sergeant Pluck]

For some reason I thought you were going for a MTB crankset, hence the Q factor comment.

The WI cranks are very nice indeed.