Yet Another Cycling Forum
General Category => The Knowledge => OT Knowledge => Topic started by: robgul on 23 November, 2020, 10:01:58 pm
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I'm replacing some lamps and need to connect 240V 1mm multi-strand cable to 3A or 5A "chocolate block connectors" in order to then have a short length of cable to connect to the transformer/lamp unit (to get the reach to the new fittings.
The 1mm cable is too thin to engage in the chocolate block . . . what I'm looking for is something like the brass ferrules that crimp onto the thin cable to give it a bit more body for the chocolate block to grip (the cable I have from the other side of the block to the transformer is 1.5 single strand)
I have about 5 I bought from Tandy in the last century!
Any idea what they might be called, where I might get them please? - I need about 50 (a lot of downlighters being replaced, halogen for LED)
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Bootlace ferrules
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/connectors/wire-terminals-splices/bootlace-ferrules/
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Personally I would use spring lever or pushfit/spring connectors. Toolstation stock various types. Wago is also a 'name'. BTW all connectors should be enclosed with strain relief. A Wagobox does this neatly.
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+1 and +1 respectively.
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Personally I would use spring lever or pushfit/spring connectors. Toolstation stock various types. Wago is also a 'name'. BTW all connectors should be enclosed with strain relief. A Wagobox does this neatly.
The transformers have spring connectors - the mains cable at 1mm is too fine to engage safely hence the choc block and short cable adapter..
I assume the RS product is OK for mains? I've only seen them on low voltage electronics.
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The transformers have spring connectors - the mains cable at 1mm is too fine to engage safely hence the choc block and short cable adapter..
Proper Wagos (and the clones) do an amazing job of working with pretty much any cable diameter securely. The clear ones are especially good because you can check the longitudinal alignment.
I find all flavours of screw terminal pretty abysmal at holding on to anything reliably.
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I was going to say, I've used Wagos successfully with Cat5[1], wouldn't expect them to be a problem with 1mm2. The great thing about the Wago type connectors is they don't loosen with thermal cycling the way screw terminals are inclined to if they're carrying current and you fail to get them appropriately tight.
Screw terminals work okay if they're the type with a clamping plate, particularly the ones that tighten upwards. (Those tend to be more of a wire-to-board connector that something you'd use in a junction box.)
[1] Not for Ethernet.
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Robgul, I understand your reason for bootlace ferrules to include a flexible tail, perhaps you have a reel? The transformer spring connectors push fit with solid. I am not sure a bootlace will push in easily or secure as it is first crimped onto the strands and starts off anything but round and smooth. Usually they are then clamped into shielded screw connectors and get flattened by the pressure. Other reason for using spring connectors - quicker and easier. The lever connectors work with stranded and solid and as I mentioned you can buy pushfit/pushfit and pushfit/lever interface connectors which are slightly quicker and easier again. I could send you a set of bootlace crimpers and some ferrules for experiment but think you will have to go solid/solid cables Hope we have convinced you of benefits over choc blocks.
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Thanks for all the replies - all I wanted was a name/source for the ferrules! - I do appreciate the comments about the spring connectors etc BUT . . .
The solution with the tails was recommended by an electrician primarily as there is very little incoming mains to cable (the lights are replacing Halogen units where the fittings or transformers are starting to fail) to work with to connect to the new downlighter units - and the choc block (I screw them really tight!) to connect to the mains cable. The cable to each light is separate rather than looping, presumably coming from sort of splitter in the ceiling void - the cable tail will just rest on the plasterboard in the void with no strain.
One point which I think may be confused in the last post - the existing incoming (thin) mains cable will have a ferrule crimped on, and then inserted/crushed in the choc block, exiting the choc block will be the tail cable with no ferrule - that in turn, with no ferrule, is clamped directly into to connector on the lamp unit.
These are the lights we're fitting - they have spring connectors in the black box - https://www.ledbulbs.co.uk/products/aurora-enlite-fixed-fire-rated-downlight-polished-chrome-en-fd101pc
Ferrules have been ordered.
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Note to self take your own advice and don't use ferrules with spring terminals*. Despite first crimping them on the wire pulled out of the ferrule. After getting the ferrule out I reverted to strip and insert bare conductors. Note to self: only use ferrules with screw terminals.
* These were big professional spring terminals with a high clamp force. A screwdriver is inserted in an adjacent hole to depress the spring and allow insertion of up to 6 mm sq. stranded conductors I thought ferrules would make things easier/neater for the 1mm stranded I was using.
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Note to self take your own advice and don't use ferrules with spring terminals*. Despite first crimping them on the wire pulled out of the ferrule. After getting the ferrule out I reverted to strip and insert bare conductors. Note to self: only use ferrules with screw terminals.
* These were big professional spring terminals with a high clamp force. A screwdriver is inserted in an adjacent hole to depress the spring and allow insertion of up to 6 mm sq. stranded conductors I thought ferrules would make things easier/neater for the 1mm stranded I was using.
I lost track of what you were saying there!
Anyway, I got some ferrules (massive box of all sizes for £8, you know where) - job is now done and all worked: cut cable from mains, stripped and crimped on ferrules (with extra long bare wire in the metal part), nipped the end of the ferrule metal parts as they were a shade too long for the choc-blocks, attached new lights with short cable tails to the choc-blocks, tested and refitted to the ceiling. Easier than expected, only one of the ceiling holes needed a very minor touch-up on the plaster.
... even better, the halogens downlighters I removed were all working, 19 of them - listed on Gumtree and sold in 10 minutes :thumbsup: - that cash covered the cost of all the GU9 LED bulbs I've bought to replace halogens in a load of other wall and ceiling lights around the house. Result.
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Good news about your lights! (I post early in the morning as it gets me back to sleep... it shows