Yet Another Cycling Forum
General Category => The Knowledge => Topic started by: toontra on 16 October, 2020, 01:10:20 pm
-
I’ve just tried to fit a Power2Max NGeco spider onto my Force 22 chainset. The problem is the P2M spider isn’t configured for the hidden bolt, so now the pin that prevents shipping between the crank arm and chainring is in the wrong place (out in the open). Also the hidden bolt is now exposed and the retaining bolt doesn’t look like the others (this is probably only a cosmetic issue but a nuisance none the less).
I don’t feel happy installing something that may lead to problems down the road. Any thoughts?
(https://i.postimg.cc/bY40PTNs/20201016-124309.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXcBc95b)
-
I use mismatched cranks and chainrings without a problem, and have done for some years. I use what I can easily buy. However, I curse the hidden bolt design.
-
I use mismatched cranks and chainrings without a problem, and have done for some years. I use what I can easily buy. However, I curse the hidden bolt design.
Cheers. So you think it's OK just to go ahead and fit?
-
If it does not offend you aesthetically. Or you could remove the pin. We rode without such pins for decades after all.
-
;D My mind is eased.
-
Not using SRAM I thought I would check. It seems the crank is carbon so if you have a history of dropping a chain in the gap, then maybe not so good.
-
You could also drill and tap a new location in the chainring to line the pin up with the crank. Some replacement big chainrings (TA for Campag?) came with two threaded locations for just this reason.
-
Drilling and tapping a new hole would seem to be the way to go, especially as you say with carbon arms and a pricey power meter spider below. Trouble is I haven't the faintest idea or the tools to accomplish this ;D
EDIT: Actually, the pin isn't even screwed in. It's rivited ::-)
-
Just use a small enough metric Allen bolt, a sleeve the diameter of the bolt head and some Loctite.
-
some SRAM chainrings are drilled already in two different places for the chain peg, 180 degrees apart. In the ones I have seen the peg is lightly riveted in place. If so, it can be as easy as knocking the peg out (eg using a drift and a small socket to support the chainring close to the peg) and then refitting it in the other hole. A knock with a suitable punch will reflare the rivet head well enough for it to be secure.
cheers
-
Brucey strikes again! :thumbsup: ;D
On close inspection, at 180 degrees from the pin there is what to all intents and purposes looks like a plain rivet similar to all the others, but it's in fact a plastic plug that can be removed!
Will have a go tomorrow with a punch. Many thanks all.
-
Success. Pin removed with sharp tap using a nail punch and moved 180 degrees. Chainrings rotated and pin now behind the crank arm where it should be.
Thanks all.
-
good work fella!
cheers
-
Thanks brucey. Never would have spotted that without your help!
Just to tidy things up I'll get a spare chainring bolt to replace the hole left by the hidden one (which is now at 180 degrees in plain sight!). Apparently you can tap out the female part from the inside and then it's a straight swap.
-
Just to tidy things up I'll get a spare chainring bolt to replace the hole left by the hidden one (which is now at 180 degrees in plain sight!). Apparently you can tap out the female part from the inside and then it's a straight swap.
yep that sounds familiar; IIRC it was pretty straightforward to do this too.
cheers
-
Thread resurrection! I'm now changing the chainrings in an effort to eliminate an annoying noise (see other thread) and I need to remove the SRAM knurled edge chainring nut of the hidden bolt from the large ring (shown in pic in 1st post), and sadly Brucey is not posting ATM.
Anyone any idea how to remove these? I presume it's a case of either drilling or knocking out but I'm unsure of the technique or tools required and don't want to screw up the new ring.
EDIT: Solved - by threading a male crank "nut" into the hidden bolt (leaving some space between the shoulder of the male bolt and the chainring surface), placing over the hole in a spanner socket (with some kitchen roll inbetween to avoid scratching) and tapping through with a small hammer.