Replacing track chain

[dat]

Should I be replacing my chain on my fixed wheel bike at 0.75 elongation like a bike with a dérailleur? I've only done 1,062miles and it's already at 0.75.

[The Solo Socialist]

I would say so if not chainring and cog will be next.

[jiberjaber]

Should I be replacing my chain on my fixed wheel bike at 0.75 elongation like a bike with a dérailleur? I've only done 1,062miles and it's already at 0.75.

I went through my first chain quite quick, similar distance, after a thread on here, I switched to Pearl Izumi and it's been a lot better!

[rogerzilla]

On a fixie (or any non-derailleur bike) you can run the chain and sprocket into the ground, especially if you have even-numbered sprocket and chainring and you always put the chain back in the same phase with the sprocket teeth.  Nothing is going to slip.

If you're using £50 sprockets you might want to change the chain at 1/16" per foot.

[DuncanM]

I assume if you're changing your sprockets semi regularly for gearing reasons, you probably want to change the chain more frequently? Or maybe even have one chain per sprocket?

[dat]

Well the kmc K810sl didn't last too well. Can anyone recommend me a 3/32 track chain? I would prefer to shell out and get light and durable rather than cheap and crap.

[devriae]

For my 3/32 fixed transmission, I've been using a KMC Z610.  Easy to rivet up (if you prefer not to use the spring link). Seems to do the job quietly and lasts for over 2000 miles. Its inexpensive, but a little on the heavy side - if that's important for you and, well, not very pretty.

The Z510 is the 1/8 version.

[dat]

I've gone with the Wippermann connex 708 chain.
https://www.connexchain.com/en/product/connex-708.html
Pretty light, £11 and if it lasts well I can pick them up for £7 from Germany. I used to run Wippermann on my Moulton as you could get them with 120 links and it lasted well on that.

[pumpkin]

changed the drivetrain and there is a lot of noise from it. So new chain (KMC B1) new ring and sprocket - all 1/8". Chain isn't bar-taut but the noise disappears once the drive train is going at a pace. It's under load that it's noisy. Any suggestions on making it quieter?

[rogerzilla]

How good is the chainline?  Have you checked it with an actual straight edge?  Measuring it front and rear assumes the frame is millimetre-straight, and few are.

The B1 is a bushed chain and will not be happy with the slightest error in chainline.  A bushingless chain, like a SRAM PC-1, won't care.

[pumpkin]

i suspected the chain but in my ignorance I thought they were basically the same (obviously some are thicker than others).

[giropaul]

Well the kmc K810sl didn't last too well. Can anyone recommend me a 3/32 track chain? I would prefer to shell out and get light and durable rather than cheap and crap.

Erm ... track chains are 1/8. Almost all 3/32 chains have flexibility built in for gear changing.
It’s fine, by the way, to run a 1/8 track chain with a 1/8 sprocket but a 3/32 chain ring if you wish

[rogerzilla]

Given that you can buy 3/32" NJS-marked track sprockets, someone must use 3/32" on the track.

[grams]

I imagine they use whatever multi speed road chain they fancy. There are lots of ways the track environment is *less* demanding than the road.

[pumpkin]

How good is the chainline?  Have you checked it with an actual straight edge?  Measuring it front and rear assumes the frame is millimetre-straight, and few are.

The B1 is a bushed chain and will not be happy with the slightest error in chainline.  A bushingless chain, like a SRAM PC-1, won't care.

I salute you and your knowledge . A cassette spacer has lowered the noise level. I've prob not run a bushed chain on the fixed before.

[bludger]

Unfortunately I think I replaced my own track chain a tad late - I think the sprocket is done as if I bang the cranks around while the bike is still, the chain jumps about on the sprocket. I think that's what's making the din.

The good news is I've got a few sprockets kicking around at home. I don't think the chainring is too badly worn but I suppose I'll find out...

[rogerzilla]

How good is the chainline?  Have you checked it with an actual straight edge?  Measuring it front and rear assumes the frame is millimetre-straight, and few are.

The B1 is a bushed chain and will not be happy with the slightest error in chainline.  A bushingless chain, like a SRAM PC-1, won't care.

I salute you and your knowledge . A cassette spacer has lowered the noise level. I've prob not run a bushed chain on the fixed before.

Under a threaded sprocket?  How thick is it?  This can work but there is a risk of stripping the threads if there's not enough engagement; try to have at least four full threads engaged.  I have a 1.6mm SA spacer under the Surly sprocket on my commuting fixie but it survived White Horse Hill in the summer* so it must be ok.

*the steepest bit is 18%

[dat]

Just thought I'd say that I ended up buying an izumi chain and after around 4,000 miles it's only at 25% worn. Picked up another one to have on hand for when it does eventually die.

[JonB]

Just thought I'd say that I ended up buying an izumi chain and after around 4,000 miles it's only at 25% worn. Picked up another one to have on hand for when it does eventually die.

Interesting, I use the cheap KMC chains and don't get anywhere near that distance. I bought a couple of Izumi's on a recommendation and found it noisy and have never fitted the other one but given that kind of longevity I think I'll give it another go next chain change.

[DuncanM]

How good is the chainline?  Have you checked it with an actual straight edge?  Measuring it front and rear assumes the frame is millimetre-straight, and few are.

The B1 is a bushed chain and will not be happy with the slightest error in chainline.  A bushingless chain, like a SRAM PC-1, won't care.

I salute you and your knowledge . A cassette spacer has lowered the noise level. I've prob not run a bushed chain on the fixed before.

Under a threaded sprocket?  How thick is it?  This can work but there is a risk of stripping the threads if there's not enough engagement; try to have at least four full threads engaged.  I have a 1.6mm SA spacer under the Surly sprocket on my commuting fixie but it survived White Horse Hill in the summer* so it must be ok.

*the steepest bit is 18%

I stripped the threads on my fixed/fixed wheel in the summer - 2 spacers and a plastic wheel cover meant too few threads engaged.  Thankfully the other side is OK.

[rob]

Just thought I'd say that I ended up buying an izumi chain and after around 4,000 miles it's only at 25% worn. Picked up another one to have on hand for when it does eventually die.

Interesting, I use the cheap KMC chains and don't get anywhere near that distance. I bought a couple of Izumi's on a recommendation and found it noisy and have never fitted the other one but given that kind of longevity I think I'll give it another go next chain change.

Izumis are noisy but wear pretty well.   I get through 3 or 4 a year across 3 bikes.   They supply so many links that I have built a complete chain out of the leftovers I found in the tool box.

[JonB]

Izumis are noisy but wear pretty well.   I get through 3 or 4 a year across 3 bikes.   They supply so many links that I have built a complete chain out of the leftovers I found in the tool box.

Ha, I've just done the same thing with KMC left overs