Gravy. That’s such an awful, proletarian sauce. The sort of meal time ruffian that puts the lump in lumpen. Jus, on the other hand, is a svelte little thing, back on the Eurostar from a weekend in the south of France, giggling coquettishly over your julienned vegetables and waving to the coy little splatter of coulis on the edge of your plate. Jus is from a world where things aren't brutally mashed, they're elegantly puréed and blitzed, then daintily arrayed so they can gaze flirtatiously at one another across the empty grey expanse of slate that lies between them. Gravy, on the other hand, looms over your food like a hard-faced bailiff waiting to take your TV. Gravy, I’m sure, lives some place monochrome up north. In the next few years, somewhere in Hackney, there'll be a gravy café, serving all manner of exotic gravies* for facially hirsute Guardian readers. It'll even be served in a literal boat.
I have a fear of gravy, dating to the monstrous stuff that was served by my parents. It had the texture of lumpy wallpaper paste, a kind of unctuous sludge that would gum up your mouth and make everything for the next two days taste of Bisto. With cornflakes, you name it. It’d ooze over the plate like a mudslide. It wasn't helped by my father’s fervour for hot food, merely serving food from the stove wasn’t enough, the plate not only had to be warmed to a cherry red glow beforehand, the entire sizzling mess then had to go back into the oven to be warmed for another twenty minutes. The result, by the time it arrived at the table, sizzling and popping like a volcanic mud pool. I've never actually tasted a volcanic mud pool but I doubt I'd be surprised.
I confess a secret hankering for Count Chocula. Admittedly, it would be healthier and marginally less addictive to just give your kids a couple of rocks of crack.
*not as outlandish as it may seem, a couple of years ago at a conference in Florida, I was surveying the distributed buffet options (it was an outside do, arrayed around the patio and pool) and I discovered an entire table of differently flavoured mashed potato. Cheese and chive, tomato and chilli, bacon, you name it, I swear about a dozen kinds of cheerfully confected potato. I was in stodge heaven. I swear by the end of the evening every Brit and Irish person in southern Florida had been drawn to that table, while the Americans looked on in horror.