Right bright lights

[rafletcher]

Check out Battery Logic UK - Uniross Batteries - Uniross Battery Chargers and get some Hybrio rechargeables and a Technoline charger for them. The Hybrios don't lose their charge whilst idle, unlike conventional Li-ion ones and the Technoline chargers keep them in good condition.

[Russell]

 I'd say that the hinge is a fundamental design weakness, especially as the light is made out of plastic.

Nowt wrong with the hinge but the closing clip is weak - but then again mine did bounce down a rough track when I failed to clip it in properly.  However, it did carry on working for a good while afterwards held shut with several turns of insulting tape.

It now has developed an intermittant that switches it off with road vibration, but if that is connected with its unplanned off road excursion I don't know.

I'll punch the hinge pin out to see if it fixable but thank goodness I should not need it this winter (change of job!).

[CommuteTooFar]

Reply I agree use low self discharge batteries.  You must always carry a spare set with you on a long commute.  Ordinary rechargeables may be almost run down as the ones you just exhausted.

Uniross Hybrios are fine
I use Ansmann maxE and Sanyo Eneloop cells.
available from Tantronics etc.
Pre-Charged Ready To Use Rechargeable Batteries and Battery Chargers

[Biggsy]

Now - rechargeable batteries! How quality is Quality? I have some Energizer thingies that seem fine for other high-power items like digital cameras. I'll give them a go and see what happens. Otherwise - are there better ones or does brand not matter? Is it all about the mAhs (whatever they are)?

I have seen people on here recommending things from 7DayShop but I have had nothing but rubbish from them so I don't think I'll go back.

There's so much variation from cell to cell with any brand that I've not found any consistent difference from one brand to another (and I've tried quite a few), so you might as well get whatever brand you fancy.  Go for the highest, or near highest, capacity available.  The capacity is quoted in units of mAh (milliamp hours).

It helps to use a good charger that inteligently charges each cell independently to get the most juice from it.  This one's a good investment.

Energizer Lithium (non rechargeable) batteries are good for emergency backups as they're light and have an extremely long shelf life.

[Morrisette]

Thanks all. I was thinking of just having a pack of ordinary batteries for back up - in fact that is what I do now, as rechargables don't like being stored in a bag for months do they?

Guess I have to do some winter commuting now that I have bought all this kit  Hope it doesn't start snowing October 1st!!!!

[mrcharly-YHT]

I'm hoping for snow - so I can justify setting up a winter bike.

The 'hybrio' batteries that have been mentioned aren't supposed to self discharge when stored unused. This is true to a point. alkalines like duracell don't last long in high-power devices, so a part drained rechargeable can still outperform alkalines.

That said, I tend to carry some alkalines during winter, just in case.

[TheLurker]

While the B&M Ixon IQ is a good light in a similar league to the Hope (and has that lovely B&M beam shape), I struggle to recommend it on the grounds of various reliability problems.  While I got a couple of years of good use out of mine before the battery contacts sheared (I was able to manufacture a replacement out of a cake tin, but I no longer trust it as a primary light), I've seen them suffer from intermittent connection problems somewhere inaccessible beyond the hinge.

^^ This ^^

Mine's still in warranty and I need to send it back before the nights properly close in.  I'd say that the hinge is a fundamental design weakness, especially as the light is made out of plastic.

Were both of you using the supplied charger or were you removing the batteries from the lamp to charge them? If it was the latter then perhaps using their charger may prevent or delay the occurrence of these problems as B&M's bit of kit lets you charge the batteries in situ.  I'll let you know in about year - as the two I have charge of (ha ha) are only a year old.

[Biggsy]

Thanks all. I was thinking of just having a pack of ordinary batteries for back up - in fact that is what I do now, as rechargables don't like being stored in a bag for months do they?

The hybrid type of rechargeable is ok left in a bag for some months, like Uniross Hybrio, Sanyo Eneloop and 7DayShop Ready to Go.  So these ones are ok for backups.  Energizer Lithium are better than alkalines as well.

[tatanab]

Were both of you using the supplied charger or were you removing the batteries from the lamp to charge them? If it was the latter then perhaps using their charger may prevent or delay the occurrence of these problems as B&M's bit of kit lets you charge the batteries in situ.  I'll let you know in about year - as the two I have charge of (ha ha) are only a year old.

My Ixon IQ is into its third winter now.  Batteries are always charged in situ.  The only problem I have had was when I dropped it and the catch opened.  When reclosed the light did not work.  "I've heard about this", I thought to myself, "maybe it's the end for this light".  I needed to bend one of the battery contacts to make contact a bit more firmly and it has been ok ever since.  For pitch black lane riding I much prefer the shaped beam of B&M over the spray light everywhere conical beams of many other offerings.

[Kim]

Were both of you using the supplied charger or were you removing the batteries from the lamp to charge them?

I was, for the most part, charging them in the light.  There was the odd occasion where I had to swap to a spare set of batteries, of course, but that wasn't very often.

I did have to bend the battery contact out a bit a couple of times to solve intermittent contact problems.  It was after doing this that it sheared (though I believe this to be a manufacturing fault, rather than fatigue from my bending - that entire piece of spring steel was dull, where the other contact was shiny).  I never suffered from the intermittent-contact-somewhere-inaccessible problem, thankfully.

Obviously that has no bearing on naff brackets - the handlebar and plasticy fork crown brackets all rely on a short self-tapping screw, screwed into plastic.  After a year or two of bouncing around on a bike, it's unsurprising that it fails.  I've recently invested in the new 475D/492GAPB style fork crown bracket to mount it on my recumbent, which has a single piece of moulded plastic, and should hopefully be a bit more durable.

I'm now using the dynamo-powered IQ Cyos as my primary lights.  The same lovely beam shape, more light, no batteries or contacts to worry about, and nice sturdy metal brackets.

[Cunobelin]

I use the Hybrio batteries as they maintain their charge longer, but the most important thing is the charger.

An intelligent charger will extend battery life and also the efficiency.

I have mine "on charge" all the time. My practice is to take the charged batteries out and put into the light when I get home and then place the spent ones on to charge for the following evening.

I then "refresh" the batteries once a month.

A normal charger would fry the batteries very quickly, where as my Technoline BL700 keeps them going for years

[Bledlow]

Dinotte.

Can't be beaten.

Very nice, but how much? The price went through the roof in late 2008, when the pound went down & the UK distributor & Dinotte fell out, necessitating buying them from the USA direct, which means one must add international postage, the VAT you have to pay before the Royal Mail will let you have it, & the handling charge Royal Mail charges for collecting that VAT. IIRC that lot's about £40 on top of the price of a Dinotte 200L.

[rafletcher]

So.. if one uses a dyno-hub and a cyo front lamp, what happens when one stops?  And what would one run as a rear light - also a dynamo driven one?

[teethgrinder]

So.. if one uses a dyno-hub and a cyo front lamp, what happens when one stops?  And what would one run as a rear light - also a dynamo driven one?

If the dynamo packs up and it's a Schmidt, send it back to get it fixed. If the cyo lamp packs up, you're very unlucky and it'll be the first I've heard, but it will go eventually, so replace with a new one or whatever will be the best at that time if they continue to improve. In the meantime, I'd use my Tesco torch with lithium batteries for seeing and a Polaris  to be seen and save the batteries on my Tesco torch until I'm up and running again.

I use a Smart half watt with lithium batteries for a rear. Some have had trouble with these, but I haven't. Cheap and very bright. Too bright really, they do guzzle the batteries. Perhaps I should start using rechargables?

[MSeries]

So.. if one uses a dyno-hub and a cyo front lamp, what happens when one stops?  And what would one run as a rear light - also a dynamo driven one?

When one stops, the stand light comes on. I use a B&M D-Toplight with my Cyo. Also have a Basta Ray rear light but not used it with the Cyo so far. (Used it with a Lumotec and a Schmidt E3)

[TimO]

I'd suggest that given your usage has both likely morning and evening use for a substantial period of time, some spare lamps are a really good idea.

A spare rear light can often be fitted to the back of the bike, and used as a hot spare if the conditions dictate it.  Most bikes will allow lamps on the rack and seat pin, and there are other options.

A hot spare on the front isn't as necessary, since you'll soon see the front light fail.  A cheap spare lamp in the bottom of your panniers is probably a good idea, since a failed light in the middle of nowhere can be somewhat unnerving since it leaves you walking along dark country roads with little to warn approaching vehicles of your presence.  Even a cheap LED light from the like of Halfords or Argos will let you progress, albeit somewhat slower than a Hope Vision 1, and will likely work off of AAs as well.

I carry spare front and rear lights, and spare spare lights (and some spare batteries), and have used them all on some occasions.  This does mean that my complete lighting setup probably costs close to £500.   I do have a lot of redundancy, but I don't have anyone to call who can come and pick me up, and it's often a long walk for me if my lights fail.  My main front light and spare are both Exposure lights which are expensive by most standards, but do give a very nice smooth beam pattern, which I like.  I use my lights on most days of the year, and for more than ten night rides a year, so I reckon it's money well spent.  I appreciate that most people won't spend as much, but a certain amount of backup is a very good idea.

[Zoidburg]

Keep the spare on your bars or keep a head torch on your helmet if you wear one.

A few minutes with no front light while you fish out a spare down an unlit lane is a few minutes too many.

Being narrow and twisty the car danger is in both directions.

[rafletcher]

So.. if one uses a dyno-hub and a cyo front lamp, what happens when one stops?  And what would one run as a rear light - also a dynamo driven one?

When one stops, the stand light comes on. I use a B&M D-Toplight with my Cyo. Also have a Basta Ray rear light but not used it with the Cyo so far. (Used it with a Lumotec and a Schmidt E3)

So the Cyo has incorporated into it the standlight? Apologies for denseness here  And is the same true of the rear light? Of does the hub contain some capacitive battery?

[border-rider]

Modern LED dynamo lights do have pretty effective standlights. The capacitors are in the lights.

I must say I've not bothered with a dynamo-driven rear light for a decade; the wiring always seems messy and accident-prone to me, and I prefer to have all the available watts up front

Plus they're not as bright as battery rear LEDS, and the batteries in those last an age these days anyway

[rafletcher]

Thanks MV - I tend to agree re rear lights and wiring, so should the need arise I'll stick with battery LEDs at the back.

[Kim]

LED dynamo rears use approximately bugger all power, and are just as bright as equivalent battery-powered lights (though I accept the real frikkin' lasers are all battery powered)...   

The wiring can indeed be a pain, though.  Perhaps less so on a 'bent.

[MSeries]

Rear dynamo lights are just fine, people have commented on how intense my actually is. The wiring is not a problem either. There is no difference in the front light with or without the rear connected. No batteries is the big win.

[MacB]

Ok, I think I'm there, it looks like it's going to be two dynohub wheels, both SON28 in silver with Rigida Snyper rims. One will definitely be the disc version and I'm still musing on taillights. If anyone could help with a couple of questions:-

the first wheel will be on main commuter with disc brakes, the second will be on the general back up bike that only runs rim brakes. It would make sense to me to spend the extra £20 and get both wheels in disc version, giving me the ability to swap wheels if needed. Are there any problems with running a disc brake hub, with rotor attached, in the non disc frame?

The front lights will be an Edelux on the main and a B&M IQ Cyo 60 on the backup. Can both of these be run with or without a taillight, and do I have to change anything to switch between the two modes?

rear lights - both bikes have racks and mounting plates, I think they're Tortec models. If I went taillight on each what's the best option and do the connecting wires come with them?

Finally - hooking it all up, by ordering the wheels and lights will I get all of the necessary connections and fork crown mounts, or do I have to order extra seperately? Are there any pitfalls when putting together I should look out for?

[Crepello]

I don't forsee any problems myself except...
I've always had to bend the steel wire brackets (that come with IQ lights. And why doesn't the Fly come with a long bracket like the Cyo???) to get a good fit around the headset  cup and gear cables. And if you are using dual pivot brakes on your back up bike, you'll need a longer nut, to compensate for the spacer that is necessary to clear the bracket of the headset. They're a couple of £ from Planet X.

[Oscar's dad]

What have I started?! Thanks for all the advice/suggestions. I have gone for a Hope from Wiggle, I'll see how I get on with it. Seemed to be the same price as lots of other places but I had a frequent user discount thing with them (oh dear!).

Now - rechargeable batteries! How quality is Quality? I have some Energizer thingies that seem fine for other high-power items like digital cameras. I'll give them a go and see what happens. Otherwise - are there better ones or does brand not matter? Is it all about the mAhs (whatever they are)?

I have seen people on here recommending things from 7DayShop but I have had nothing but rubbish from them so I don't think I'll go back.

When you attached the bracket to the light ignore the instructions and fit it back to front.  This means the clamp's screw is at the front of the light not behind it and makes it much easier to do the clamp up tightly.  If this doesn't make sense I will post a photo when I have a minute.

The Hope is a great bit of kit in my opinion.  I use Uniross batteries recharged on a Technoline BL700.  It all adds up money wise but works.