m5 frameset is here

[ElyDave]

I am amazed that carbon stays can be re-set like that since the material is basically resin and fibre rather than crystalline. Is there a confirmation in the literature somewhere to confirm that works OK? Otherwise, I would be tempted to go for the rim brake option. The wheel will be slightly less strong having more dish at 130mm but there is a huge choice of hubs, rims, and complete wheels to choose from compared to the options with 135. I built my Encore with 135mm hubs (Schlitter provide shims to allow either width to be used) because they are less dished and that limits my options for lightweight hubs quite dramatically but I am still using rim brakes because they are lighter, cheaper and less faff - pros and cons all round.
Alf

Bram say he's done it before.  I went for the M5 Cr-Mo rather than CHR.

[Wothill]

Ah! Beg your pardon. I just jumped to conclusions seeing all that black on the frame. I suppose ChroMo would be fairly straightforward to re-set. Certainly looks like a carefully thought out method from ElyDave compared to the hold down with foot and heave (which I have never tried but seems to be advocated by some)
Good luck.

[ElyDave]

I'll supply pictures when I get to that bit, probably towards the end.

Seat holes are now drilled in the right positions (this time ) but a little more needs to be taken off the front end before I drill to final diameters and fix the seat. I want a clear space between seat and frame to allow any flex.

All components now here, so I see seat positioning as a big step forward to being able to set boom length, fettle drive train and front brake before moving on to the rear end.

[ElyDave]

Getting there.  Having the seat position sorted was a very definite step forward psychologically and an enabler of many other things.

Over the weekend
- rear forks spread by a couple of mm, disc braked wheel now just difficult rather than impossible to fit
- brakes set up - may need a little tweaking
- gears set up and indexing OK
- chain line set up, just need a bit more chain tube to prevent the chain eating my leg.

Still to do
- final boom adjustment
- bar tape, seat tape,
- rear mudguard
- mirror
- bottle cages
- soure and fit headrest

[ElyDave]

Getting there.  Having the seat position sorted was a very definite step forward psychologically and an enabler of many other things.

Over the weekend
- rear forks spread by a couple of mm, disc braked wheel now just difficult rather than impossible to fit
- brakes set up - may need a little tweaking - DONE
- gears set up and indexing OK
- chain line set up, just need a bit more chain tube to prevent the chain eating my leg. - DONE

Still to do
- final boom adjustment - DONE
- bar tape, seat tape,
- rear mudguard -
- mirror
- bottle cages - DONE
- soure and fit headrest - Sourced, not fitted yet

I'm very tempted for a quick, incomplete test pootle

[ElyDave]

Here it is.

No mirror yet so only a very tentative 500yard test ride.  A few mods to the ride position, which will take some getting used to.

[DrMekon]

Looks quick standing still.

[Kim]

Very nice...   

[LMT]

Looks good, I'd drop the chain and run it through an over/under idler. I think it'd look cleaner and you can get rid of the chain tubes.

[ElyDave]

Looks good, I'd drop the chain and run it through an over/under idler. I think it'd look cleaner and you can get rid of the chain tubes.

The single idler, as you suggest is the standard config, but I deliberately added the second idler. Speaking to others, the chain line you suggest restricts the steering a lot due to clashes with the front wheel. You'd probably still want one length of chain tube though to manage interaction with the right leg.

I may end up with a 26" or 650 front wheel, and I need to redo the bar tape (had a brain wave on that while cooking breakfast this morning). I may also end up changing the chain line with experience.