Yet Another Cycling Forum
General Category => The Knowledge => Topic started by: andyoxon on 10 November, 2019, 12:01:31 am
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The vertical mudguard (Bluemels) fixing tab is prevented by the headset from going up any further. It's kind of annoying because there's bags of potential clearance but I'm stuck with about 5mm of mudguard over the tyre - mud starts sticking/scraping. I tried bending the tip of the vertical tab, but then found it tricky the get the mudguard to sit straight.
It's a design fault IMO / bike design has changed. My ancient (90s) bluemels, were fine.
Any ideas/fixes?
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I bent the tab to fit the one on my Dawes, but I think I had a little more room to play with between the bolt and the crown race. Some fiddling and harsh language was certainly involved, but it's fitting mudguards, so that's to be expected.
Pad it out with washers (or molish a custom spacer on your lathe) under the tab so the top of the tab can overhang the crown race? Non-destructive, so probably worth a try.
Cutting down the tab would probably work (perhaps in combination with a larger washer). Since it's clamped, does it matter if it's an open slot? I don't like it as a solution though, it's bound to break.
Nuclear option: Remove the fixing entirely, drill a couple of holes in the mudguard (or re-use the ones where the rivets now aren't) and pass a cable tie through it and the mounting hole.
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The SKS tab is like this on my bike. I bent the top bit, above the bolt, back. It sits straight.
In theory, you could cut off the bit above the bolt.
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... I tried bending the tip of the vertical tab, but then found it tricky the get the mudguard to sit straight.
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Can you explain why the ‘guard wouldn’t sit straight? Or do you have a pic?
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I've increased clearance by chopping off the fitting, and using zip ties instead.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/bg2s5yqerf3wo17/mudguard2_zps04a95cca.jpg?dl=0)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/2dqanxa6rxqd4v7/mudguard1_zps3cc7a1dc.jpg?dl=0)
If the bottom of the brake is lower than the bottom on the fork crown, you may want a spacer of some sort.
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as the bolt is holding only the mudguard, i would just add a spacer (e.g. 3-4 valve lockring nuts, simple washers, v-brake pad washers..) so that the tab clears the headset. a longer bolt might be needed.
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Here's mine:
(https://imgur.com/2PoWEw1.jpg)
My brake is bolt-on, the spacer is there because the back of the fork crown is not flat. Luckily, it brings the tab away from the headset and the brake bolt is just long enough.
Zip ties might actually reduce the gap depending on the thickness of the rivets and zip ties and how flat you can get the zip ties to lie flat on the inside of the mudguard. And they're fugly.
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Thanks all. :thumbsup:
Probably me just not bending the tab evenly (with molegrips I think) & not having a good spacer...
Spacing out with washers would be easy, but yes, existing M5 hex crown bolts are stubby and not long enough. edit. scavenged an old threadless headset cap bolt. :)
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I bent mine in the same way but it certainly was a pain getting it to sit straight, I think it was just not having enough hands to hold the guard, light, then both ends to tighten it up! Got there eventually though :)
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Good fitting guide here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lG_WZVS9SUY
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I went for spacers on mine around an awkward carbon fork fitting: -
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49042974842_99f4e9ae87_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hHL4ML)
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The SKS tab is like this on my bike. I bent the top bit, above the bolt, back. It sits straight.
In theory, you could cut off the bit above the bolt.
That’s what I did, Dremel in hand.
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Problem Solver Fender Nuts (https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/problem-solvers-sheldon-fender-nuts-10-13-mm-per-pair/)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/3820/19502340403_e05ef57aa4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/vHmAmk)Henry Burton Tourer/Audax (https://flic.kr/p/vHmAmk) by Ian-d-g (https://www.flickr.com/photos/acf_windy/), on Flickr
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I've sawn through a couple on different bikes and they've been fine
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Common problem
I used Hubner's solution. Even with that, I only have about 3mm clearance for 37mm tyres. Real pain when roads are muddy (or I can regard it as resistance training).
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Cutting the top of the tab off works better IME than bending it. However, as it's stainless steel, it's hard to cut through with a junior hacksaw! Why can't SKS make these tabs of aluminium?
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Fatigue and corrosion resistance means that SS is a better option.
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A piece that small and spindly in aluminium would disintegrate either as you hacksawed it or as you bolted it up.
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Fair points. I understand SKS have now moved to plastic for that tab but I'm not sure of the reasoning.
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I've increased clearance by chopping off the fitting, and using zip ties instead.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/bg2s5yqerf3wo17/mudguard2_zps04a95cca.jpg?dl=0)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/2dqanxa6rxqd4v7/mudguard1_zps3cc7a1dc.jpg?dl=0)
If the bottom of the brake is lower than the bottom on the fork crown, you may want a spacer of some sort.
This will give the tightest clearance
On one of my bikes I've hacksawed off the top of the tab as suggested by others
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Cutting the top of the tab off works better IME than bending it. However, as it's stainless steel, it's hard to cut through with a junior hacksaw!
I'd probably reach for the Dremel for that one...