Tubeless for Dummies

[vorsprung]

I'd say that if you are in doubt, then you already have your answer.

+1
tubeless tyres are fabulous but you have to use them
I *do* have them on my MTB which I will sometimes not ride for months but it seems to be able to tolerate the tyres going down to <10 psi without any issues.  Probably as it has 2.25" tyres and you can run them at under psi riding if you like

[BrianI]

My MTB has Schrader drilled rims. When converting them using Tessa tape, and a cafelatex rim strip, and a cafelatex tubeless valve (presta), the valve came with extra rubber seals which  meant you could use the presta tubeless valves on Schrader drilled rims.

[BrianI]

My view on tubeless is that it is more hassle than it is worth if it is a bike you don't ride regularly because you do need to pump up the tyres every few weeks. If you leave them for a few months they can deflate, unseat and leak.

I'd say that if you are in doubt, then you already have your answer.

No issue with my converted rims on my MTB after not using it for a few months due to health issues. Just more air in the tyres.

[fd3]

No problem. I am still puzzled about my situation.

Sounds a bit like my current situation.  Pump up tyres and ride to work and back fine, but then deflate overnight and sometimes deflate when at work.

Turns out I have a puncture, but I only hear the hiss from the puncture when I pump up to 80PSI (max rating of tyre).  If I park my bike with the puncture at the bottom then it doesn't deflate.  I'm going to continue with this method for a bit and then check the tyre in water for punctures, have a closer look, get covered in tubless goo and then maybe consider a puncture repair doo-dad.

Anyway, the reason I bring this up is that unless I hit high pressure there was no hiss or tubless goo spray indicating a puncture, so I effectively have a slow puncture, which sounds like your issue.

[vorsprung]

My view on tubeless is that it is more hassle than it is worth if it is a bike you don't ride regularly because you do need to pump up the tyres every few weeks. If you leave them for a few months they can deflate, unseat and leak.

I'd say that if you are in doubt, then you already have your answer.

No issue with my converted rims on my MTB after not using it for a few months due to health issues. Just more air in the tyres.

MTB tyres stay mounted at very very low pressures because that's what they are designed to do.  Road tyres usually do but it's possible they could loose the seal if they are deflated

[Somnolent]

Possibly more likely to unseat with weight on wheels (i.e. bike standing up) ?
My tubeless road bike is hung from ceiling and seems to go down to 20psi without unseating if left long enough.

IME the whole seating thing is very much down to chance.  Just built a supposedly tubeless ready Kinlin rim, and getting a Schwalbe One TLR to seat on it (without sealant, but lashings of soapy water) took at least half a dozen attempts with the Airshot.  Same tyres on Archetypes, it's a 50/50 chance if they seat with track pump or need the Airshot.   

[zigzag]

properly designed rims should not let the tyres unseat, even with zero pressure. there are a fair number of wheels that manufacturers claim they are tubeless, but they are not really.

[zigzag]

regarding air leakage, perhaps worth spraying some soapy water on the wheels?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pyok6z-e_nk

even among the tyres of the same model there are inconsistencies how airtight they are. out of six (s-works tyres) in my case two are leaking, the rest can maintain pressure for a week or longer, even without any sealant in them.

it's long overdue for clear and understandable standards, so that you know what you are getting.

[BFC]

I have found that marking known punctures/damage with a paint marker helps (on all tyres). Short term marking on the running area will wear off in a few tens of miles. A mark on the sidewall or near the bead will give a long term marking for "keep an eye on it" purposes.
I also marked up the very tight fold(s) on some tyres when unpacking them - it proved out that was where the delamination on some tyre models started (Michelin Pro Race 3 - not brought folding Michelins since!).

With tubeless it gives the option of parking the wheel with the dominant puncture at the bottom at cafe stops etc when you remember.

[BFC]

regarding air leakage, perhaps worth spraying some soapy water on the wheels?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pyok6z-e_nk

even among the tyres of the same model there are inconsistencies how airtight they are. out of six (s-works tyres) in my case two are leaking, the rest can maintain pressure for a week or longer, even without any sealant in them.

it's long overdue for clear and understandable standards, so that you know what you are getting.

Be careful when using washing up liquid - it contains salt. Aluminium and salt don't get on! Submerging an aluminium rim in salt water never seemed like a good idea to me. Carbon rims should be OK unless they contain aluminium nipples (is it worth the risk?).
Baby shampoo is salt free and generally Ph balanced and unlike car shampoos doesn't have added wax to make tyre grip and braking "interesting" (highly recommended by car valeting people, look out for special offers when it is far cheaper than car shampoo).

[fd3]

I have found that marking known punctures/damage with a paint marker helps (on all tyres). ...
With tubeless it gives the option of parking the wheel with the dominant puncture at the bottom at cafe stops etc when you remember.

This is basically what I did.  Used a bit of tubeless goo and wiped it on the sidewall - needs light shining on it to notice though.
After a week or so of parking it puncture-down I forgot for a few days and it's retaining pressure.

[aidan.f]

Thread bump!

Now  I'm sure I could  read  through but  I'm picking  up my  first tubeless trike on Wednesday and  riding a  400 on Saturday

New  tyres no flints and low risk of cuts and thorns

 What  should I carry?  all or just some of these...

1. Stans Darts
2. Sealant
3. Tube(s)
4. Tool to get tubeless valve out
5. Tyre levers
6. Tyre patch
7. Something to mop up sealant
8. Pump

[Hot Flatus]

All if it is your first go at tubeless and it's a 400.

Most likely to be used? Nothing.

Second most likely? dart and pump

[Ian H]

Valve removal is just undoing the lock-ring and waggling it out.  I've never needed an implement.

I have had what appears to be a bad batch of Stan's darts.  Two have come apart during insertion (oo-er, missus), so I'm trying the Dynaplug system, though not used it yet.

[yoav]

I think aidan means a tool for removing the valve core, rather than the valve body. To add more sealant, I guess so a valve tool is useful for that.

[L CC]

I'm not a happy bunny.

Picked the bike up last weekend from a "silver service". When I pinch the tyre with my feeble girl fingers air and sealant is pissing out at the rim.

I walked the rest of the track, (Taff Trail above Talybont reservoir) then pumped it up and gingerly descended on the road. It seems to be holding up but what a mess.

[sojournermike]

First tubeless failure the other week - horrible cold and wet evening and riding Challenge Paris-Roubaix HTLR. something cut across the edge of the tread rubber and the sidewall and, despite trying valiantly, the sealant couldn't hold it. I suspect the problems were that the edge of the tread rubber/sidewall flexes a lot and that I rode it for 1/2 a mile before stopping to look. OKO High Fibre sealant.

Lesson learnt to not ride expensive Italien (branded) race tyres on a cra**y winters evening in Yorkshire. Said tyres now hung up until the weather is nicer and replaced with a pait of Hutchinson All Season that I found in the shed.

Mike

[zigzag]

i had to use tyre plugs yesterday, for the first time in 5+ years of running tubeless. the first cut was too large to seal and squirted almost all the sealant out of it after i removed a flint. another cut was smaller and kinda sealed, but still kept spraying on and off. when the tyre started to suddenly deflate in the train on the way home i plugged it too. the bike needs a good scrub now.

[morbihan]

i had to use tyre plugs yesterday, for the first time in 5+ years of running tubeless. the first cut was too large to seal and squirted almost all the sealant out of it after i removed a flint. another cut was smaller and kinda sealed, but still kept spraying on and off. when the tyre started to suddenly deflate in the train on the way home i plugged it too. the bike needs a good scrub now.

plugged a few times here, and have a related q.
I assume that the metal spike used to lance the tire means that putting a tube in some time down the road is now a no no. Or is there a way of slicing off the spike from the inside and using a tube in a  future drama?

[sojournermike]

My kit doesn’t leave the spike in place. I have a metal fork that pushes the worm through and then is pulled out leaving the worm in place.

I reckon that, with a bit of care, half a worm will do most punctures, and in extremism I could probably dig up more 🐛/ 🪳to use in a remote situation.


OK - I made the second part up:)

[zigzag]

my opinion is that if one decides to use tubeless tyres, they should forget about inner tubes, that such thing even exists. so i don’t carry inner tubes with me as they are a bad idea and can do more harm than good. tyre plugs, some sealant and a pump (and a valve tool) should fix most tyre issues, save for some calamity that may happen once in a blue moon.

[bobb]

I assume that the metal spike used to lance the tire means that putting a tube in some time down the road is now a no no. Or is there a way of slicing off the spike from the inside and using a tube in a  future drama?

I had that concern a while ago. I ended up pulling the plug out and used a tubeless tyre patch. It's been fine ever since...

[Hot Flatus]

I don't know if this is the case for all the dart type plugs, but on mine the metal tip can be pulled off so if you did fit a tube you could remove the tip once you have one side of the tyre off.

[jiberjaber]

New failure mode today.

Rapid deflation from 2 holes in the tyre - pulled up, put 2 worms in and started to pump the tyre back up.

Valve insert sheared off in the end of the pump leaving the valve in the end of the pump.

I had a tube with me but decided to call the team car up for service back home. 30 mins later I was home and it was starting to rain, so small blessings!

Not sure on the age of the valve insert but I've never had one snap before!

[Dominic]

So, came to cycle home, tyre flat, pumped up with mini pump, got me home no problems, 15 miles.  Seemed to be holding air, so pumped up with track pump. Came out the next morning flat, found hole, fixed that.  Can't for the life of me to get the tyre to inflate.  Done the airshot, soapy water, every time I inflate it seems to be coming from the edge of the rim around the seating but it seems to be properly seated.

Any ideas?