The Sainsbury white bread flour I used is 13.9% protein.
I got two bags of hastily repackaged Tesco bread flour yesterday with a measily 11.3% protein. The Allinson plain white I have is 9.9%, so not that far behind.
I wonder if stuff that is packaged as 'bread flour' is a bit like the stuff you used to get called 'whipping cream' - for whipping, you want a high fat content, so double cream (defined as 48% butterfat) is best. You might imagine something called 'whipping cream' would be specially designed for the job and therefore have an even higher fat content, but in fact it was a cheaper alternative to double cream that had
just enough fat content to make it whippable - and also be more tolerant to overwhipping without turning to butter. I don't think I've seen 'whipping cream' on sale for some years though.
Likewise, I suspect 'bread flour' is
just strong enough to make bread (probably optimised for machines) while also being low enough in protein to result in a nice soft crumb, as opposed to 'strong flour' which has to pass a defined threshold for protein content. Higher protein will also result in chewier bread, which may or may not be a desirable quality.
The flour I got from our local baker friends is just 12.3% - that is just labelled as 'flour' (ie not 'strong' or 'bread'). This is a loaf I made on Sunday, using just this flour, at about 66% hydration:
- not as much 'spring' as I'd like, but I put that down to not using a cloche/dutch oven, and I suspect I didn't give it quite long enough at the final proving stage either. But the key thing to note is that it held its shape pretty well, no collapsing when turned out of the banneton. The point being that it is possible to achieve a decent loaf with all white flour and high(ish) hydration, even with relatively low protein flour. It's all in the shaping, as I believe Flatus has previously noted.
Also worth noting that stoneground flour will take more water than the bog-standard, highly refined roller-milled stuff - this is because it has higher bran content (and bran absorbs water more readily than germ, which is why wholemeal loaves need much higher water content).
A much better bread day.