Author Topic: Replacement bearings for On-One track hubs (Read 4055 times)

greenmeansgo · « **on:** 05 June, 2011, 11:07:41 pm »

I noticed recently that the rear hub on the fixie isn't very smooth, despite doing exactly the same mileage as the front hub.

1. Does anyone know what / where I should be looking for replacement bearing units?
2. Why should the front be fine but the rear not? Simply weight borne by the respective hubs?

Cheers

wooliferkins · « **Reply #1 on:** 06 June, 2011, 03:18:17 pm »

Your rear hub takes all the grunt from your drive. If you can get the bearings out measure them accurately (internal dia, external dia, and width) and you'll probably find a commercially available bearing available. If not Wheels Manufacturing should have them.

border-rider · « **Reply #2 on:** 06 June, 2011, 03:21:49 pm »

Quote from: greenmeansgo on 05 June, 2011, 11:07:41 pm

2. Why should the front be fine but the rear not? Simply weight borne by the respective hubs?

one thing that destroys rear fixed hubs is having the chain a bit tight, so it binds. It should be tight enough that there's no real play but not so tight it binds. Which is fine if everything is lined up & round & concentric, not so easy with cheap/worn components

greenmeansgo · « **Reply #3 on:** 06 June, 2011, 04:08:34 pm »

sounds about right. I have a tendency to run the chain fairly tight.

Thanks for the Wheels Manufacturing link. They have a nice pdf for identifying which bearing you need. Doesn't look like I'll have to measure that accurately either (just to the nearest mm)!

Gattopardo · « **Reply #4 on:** 07 June, 2011, 01:21:17 am »

Think they are 6001 rs whne you remove them the number are written on.

Any bearing supplier can do the bearings without fail.

greenmeansgo · « **Reply #5 on:** 07 June, 2011, 09:41:23 am »

Great, thanks.

GrahamG · « **Reply #6 on:** 07 June, 2011, 12:33:38 pm »

Get a '2RS' as a replacement - that means it's double sealed (moisture can still get in from the inside) and should last a good deal longer.... if your chain isn't too tight

aidan.f · « **Reply #7 on:** 07 June, 2011, 08:24:48 pm »

More friction though! and moisture is sucked into the hub as the air in the body contracts, think nice warm day, heavy downpour cooling contraction,
I'm not sure whether having no seals on the inside makes this better or worse - One seal may allow any drops of water to disperse into the larger centre volume rather than being trapped between the two seals.
Schmidt hubs - with a lot of volume have a tiny breather hole in the centre of the (hollow) axle to avoid this problem.

GrahamG · « **Reply #8 on:** 08 June, 2011, 10:15:44 am »

I have to confess that I've not given any of my track hubs enough use to compare bearings but the single sealed variety only lasted a friend of mine one winter of commuting (30 miles a day admittedly) before being totally destroyed whilst the 2RS (and admittedly higher quality anyway regardless of sealing!) replacements have since given a good deal longer service.

greenmeansgo · « **Reply #9 on:** 04 May, 2012, 02:36:41 pm »

Thread resurrection! I've only just got round to starting this

Once I have the old bearings out, what is the best way to install the new ones? I've read a few things about finding a big washer/using the old bearing to press the new bearings in by tightening the track nut onto it, which seems like a good idea. Other techniques just tap the new one in carefully with a hammer.

I understand that the important bit is to not push the bearing in using the inner part as this might ruin the bearings, but to keep the force on the casing.

Have I missed anything?

Adrian · « **Reply #10 on:** 04 May, 2012, 09:15:44 pm »

Quote from: greenmeansgo on 04 May, 2012, 02:36:41 pm

Thread resurrection! I've only just got round to starting this

Once I have the old bearings out, what is the best way to install the new ones? I've read a few things about finding a big washer/using the old bearing to press the new bearings in by tightening the track nut onto it, which seems like a good idea. Other techniques just tap the new one in carefully with a hammer.

I understand that the important bit is to not push the bearing in using the inner part as this might ruin the bearings, but to keep the force on the casing.

Have I missed anything?

That sounds right to me. A length of threaded rod, some heavy washers, and nuts will do the job. Putting the bearings in the freezer and the hub in the oven will make the fit looser, provided you work quickly enough.

GrahamG · « **Reply #11 on:** 06 May, 2012, 02:33:14 pm »

I use a socket (as in from a socket set) the same diameter as the outer housing. Then I twat it... OK, tap gently.

greenmeansgo · « **Reply #12 on:** 08 May, 2012, 09:50:15 pm »

Great, thanks. A job for the weekend!

greenmeansgo · « **Reply #13 on:** 11 May, 2012, 05:06:37 pm »

For future reference for anyone else needing this info, the bearings are 6000, not 6001. 10x26x8 mm. I've now ordered the correct part, having removed the old ones!

drossall · « **Reply #14 on:** 10 November, 2012, 09:01:21 pm »

That's saved me extracting the old bearings on mine to check, thanks. Looks like I've kept the chain on my fixed a bit taut, and the bearings have suffered.

greenmeansgo · « **Reply #15 on:** 10 November, 2012, 09:51:53 pm »

Glad it was useful to someone else, rather than just being a reference for me, for next time!

drossall · « **Reply #16 on:** 17 November, 2012, 09:43:25 pm »

Would you happen to know the cone size as well? Looks as though it might be 17mm, and the nut underneath the same. I've had 13/14 and 15/16mm Campag cone spanners for three decades, but I don't think I have anything to fit these, so I can't easily measure them.

greenmeansgo · « **Reply #17 on:** 19 November, 2012, 10:26:56 am »

I've a feeling it's a 15mm cone, and 17mm nut, but I'll check this evening.

drossall · « **Reply #18 on:** 19 November, 2012, 08:59:57 pm »

Thanks, I appreciate that. Don't think the cone was 15mm because my Campag spanner didn't fit.

greenmeansgo · « **Reply #19 on:** 20 November, 2012, 11:46:13 am »

How old are your hubs? My 15mm Park cone spanner fits the cones (well it's a little bit loose, but it's not 14mm), and a 17mm spanner fits the nuts.

drossall · « **Reply #20 on:** 20 November, 2012, 08:29:59 pm »

Couple of years old, maybe. Pretty sure my Campag cone spanner wouldn't fit. I've ordered some Park ones. I'll report back.

greenmeansgo · « **Reply #21 on:** 20 November, 2012, 09:08:22 pm »

In what way didn't the campag tool fit? The jaws too thick to fit between the cone and the adjacent nut, or just like it was the wrong size spanner for the cone?

drossall · « **Reply #22 on:** 20 November, 2012, 09:25:30 pm »

No, wrong size. It's a cone spanner

LittleWheelsandBig · « **Reply #23 on:** 25 January, 2020, 11:39:07 am »

Quote from: greenmeansgo on 11 May, 2012, 05:06:37 pm

For future reference for anyone else needing this info, the bearings are 6000, not 6001. 10x26x8 mm. I've now ordered the correct part, having removed the old ones!

Good to find this. I'm a bit too lazy to pull the bearings before ordering replacements. It is also helpful to keep the commuter on the road continuously.

rogerzilla · « **Reply #24 on:** 25 January, 2020, 11:53:51 am »

I replaced the bearings on a similar hub when it was out of the wheel. I don't recommend this - it makes it much harder as the fit is tighter. The tension of the spokes actually stretches the hub radially. Likewise, if you adjust cup and cone bearings in a nutted hub perfectly, then build it into a wheel, you'll find there is a load of free play that wasn't there before. 36 spokes all pulling outwards with over 70kgf is a lot of stretch!

Author Topic: Replacement bearings for On-One track hubs (Read 4055 times)

border-rider