Quick link pliers - recommendations?

[Sergeant Pluck]

I currently have this Shimano tool, the TL-CN10:

https://www.bikeparts.co.uk/products/shimano-tl-cn10-quick-link-tool

initially that was good, but now it only works to close the link, not to open it, as it has become distorted over time. Not, however, as distorted as my face when I try to close the link on a freshly waxed chain. Therein lies the origin of the problem as I have abused the tool when things were not quite lined up right due to excess wax.

So - do I get another one to replace it, or go for the Park version?

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Park-Tool/Master-Link-Pliers-MLP-12/ZF

Or is there something better?

For opening the Shimano 11s quick link, the plastic ”Clever” tyre levers, sold under multiple brands like KMC, work very well. Less so for closing.

[Kim]

I've no complaints about the Park one, though I don't really abuse it, and haven't got anything higher than 10-speed.

[citoyen]

Or is there something better?

Not using wax lube?

Seriously, though, the problem is that you’re abusing them, not a flaw with the tool itself. Buying a more expensive make will just make the problem more expensive.

My cheapo Lifeline ones have lasted very well.

You really shouldn’t ever need to use enough force to distort the prongs.

[grams]

Why are you using a tool to close a quick link? Move it to top of the loop, make sure the both bits are properly aligned, hold the bike still and stamp on the pedal.

[rafletcher]

Why are you using a tool to close a quick link? Move it to top of the loop, make sure the both bits are properly aligned, hold the bike still and stamp on the pedal.

This. Never used a tool to close a quick link. And never bent one (Park Tools) opening one

[slope]

AS recommended by robgul OTP ?

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/super-b-chain-master-link-pliers-tb3323/

[Paul H]

I have a Bike Hand one, it's the only one I've used so can't compare, works fine though most of the time I can remove without a tool and I've never used one to fit. I don't see how it would wear out without it being seriously misused.

[freeflow]

No tool needed.  As used by me with waxed chains for the past three years.


https://www.merlincycles.com/wippermann-connex-chain-link-100750.html

[T42]

Tried one of those a couple of years ago but it clunked going through the derailleur on the 11-spd 11T.  Otherwise yes, great.

What's the point of that sticky-out bit at the ends of the link?

[robgul]

AS recommended by robgul OTP ?

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/super-b-chain-master-link-pliers-tb3323/

Indeed a top tool - can't quite get the price of the Shimano item in the OP!!!!!!  - the SuperB is available, unsurprisingly, from other suppliers at a lower price.

The add-on for this chain link plier tool is the old spoke bent into a double ended hook as a "third hand" to hold the two ends of the chain together while you fit and close the link  (it's also useful when opening th chain to stop at leat one of the magic link parts flying across the workshop when the chain parts and falls to the floor!!)

[T42]

The add-on for this chain link plier tool is the old spoke bent into a double ended hook as a "third hand" to hold the two ends of the chain together while you fit and close the link  (it's also useful when opening th chain to stop at leat one of the magic link parts flying across the workshop when the chain parts and falls to the floor!!)

Or disappears into your stock of wood offcuts.  I've been using the double-hook idea for >20 years but last time for some reason I forgot to. Still, it was an ordinary SRAM link and it's been done up and released around 15 times so I dare say a change was due.

[howdee]

No tool needed.  As used by me with waxed chains for the past three years.


https://www.merlincycles.com/wippermann-connex-chain-link-100750.html

Can one of these links be safely transferred across to a new chain when the old worn chain is replaced. Or do master links wear like the rest of the chain? I'm unsure if it's the pins or the rollers (or both) that wear down.

[T42]

No tool needed.  As used by me with waxed chains for the past three years.


https://www.merlincycles.com/wippermann-connex-chain-link-100750.html

Can one of these links be safely transferred across to a new chain when the old worn chain is replaced. Or do master links wear like the rest of the chain? I'm unsure if it's the pins or the rollers (or both) that wear down.

Connex links reputedly last for ever and ever.  SRAM says its 10- or 11-spd links are use-once, 9-spd and under are re-usable. I've re-used SRAM 10- and 11-spd links multiple times.

[Sergeant Pluck]

Or is there something better?

You really shouldn’t ever need to use enough force to distort the prongs.

I didn’t think I was using enough force to distort the prongs, but on one occasion it seems that I did. I look after my tools and I was surprised to realise that there must have been some (invisible) bending going on. 

For oiled chains, I don’t need to use a tool to close the quick link, but then I would only need to do that once per chain at the end of its life. For a waxed chain that needs to be swapped out for another fairly frequently, I find it much trickier to get everything to stay lined up to enable a tool-free closure and hence prefer a tool.

No tool needed.  As used by me with waxed chains for the past three years.


https://www.merlincycles.com/wippermann-connex-chain-link-100750.html

What chains are you using those on?

[quixoticgeek]

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/accessories/products/pack-pliers

Am a big fan of these. I carry a set in the top tube bag of my bike.

J

[Kim]

Those look like a well-thought-through tool, but I've never found myself in need of quick link pliers at the roadside.  (You don't need a tool to fit links, and if you need to undo a link to resolve some terminal chain-entanglement, I've always found that dribbling some lube on it is sufficient to make it undo-able by hand.)  Is this a single-use link thing?

[quixoticgeek]

Those look like a well-thought-through tool, but I've never found myself in need of quick link pliers at the roadside.  (You don't need a tool to fit links, and if you need to undo a link to resolve some terminal chain-entanglement, I've always found that dribbling some lube on it is sufficient to make it undo-able by hand.)  Is this a single-use link thing?

Not had any issues with links being single use. I've used it a few times in the living room, and once at the side of the road. Great that it also solves the not losing the spare quick links in the tool bag.

J

[Kim]

My p*nct*r* repair kit contains a small zip-lock bag for all the items that could save your ride and are so small and light that it's silly not to have them.  Quick links, cleat bolt, valve core, etc.

[T42]

For a waxed chain that needs to be swapped out for another fairly frequently, I find it much trickier to get everything to stay lined up to enable a tool-free closure and hence prefer a tool.

Try joining up the two ends of the chain again before waxing.  That said, I still use a tool.

[Sergeant Pluck]

Those look like a well-thought-through tool, but I've never found myself in need of quick link pliers at the roadside.  (You don't need a tool to fit links, and if you need to undo a link to resolve some terminal chain-entanglement, I've always found that dribbling some lube on it is sufficient to make it undo-able by hand.)  Is this a single-use link thing?

I have tried several times but haven’t been able to undo the Shimano 11sp single use QL by hand. I just can’t grip it well enough. 9 and 10sp KMC were manageable. But a tool is so much better.

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/accessories/products/pack-pliers

Am a big fan of these. I carry a set in the top tube bag of my bike.

J

Excellent suggestion, thanks.

[grams]

If you need to undo a quick link at the roadside without a tool, position it on the chainring so it sticks outwards (ie the QL and a normal link form a triangle sticking out over one chainring tooth) then bash the appropriate edge of the QL with a blunt object like the side of a multitool.

[Kim]

If you need to undo a quick link at the roadside without a tool, position it on the chainring so it sticks outwards (ie the QL and a normal link form a triangle sticking out over one chainring tooth) then bash the appropriate edge of the QL with a blunt object like the side of a multitool.

Top tip that!

[Kim]

I have tried several times but haven’t been able to undo the Shimano 11sp single use QL by hand. I just can’t grip it well enough. 9 and 10sp KMC were manageable. But a tool is so much better.

I suspected as much.  I've always found 7 and 9-speed to be trivial to undo by hand unless seriously gunked up, the KMC reusable 10-speed ones are a little more awkward, but doable with mucky hands^[1] and harsh language.  I've yet to experience 11 or 12-speed (or 8-speed, but I assume it's basically the same as 9-speed).


_{[1] I'm working on the principle that if I'm having to break a quick link at the roadside, I'm already covered in chain schmoo because I've been trying to un-jam the chain from behind a sprocket or chainring guard or something, or perhaps bodging around a catastrophic derailleur failure.}

[slope]

If you need to undo a quick link at the roadside without a tool, position it on the chainring so it sticks outwards (ie the QL and a normal link form a triangle sticking out over one chainring tooth) then bash the appropriate edge of the QL with a blunt object like the side of a multitool.

I think I remember? donkeys' years ago Chris Juden in the CTC mag describing this technique with photos? Mind you, memory could be faulty a lot more these days?

I've certainly been successful with it on gunged up worn 8 speed KMC and Sram links previously, placed at 3 o'clock on the big ring, which removes any chain tension at that position.

Will try on a 10 and 11 speed chains tomorrow in the comfort of the heated bike shed

[Paul H]

If you need to undo a quick link at the roadside without a tool, position it on the chainring so it sticks outwards (ie the QL and a normal link form a triangle sticking out over one chainring tooth) then bash the appropriate edge of the QL with a blunt object like the side of a multitool.

I think I remember? donkeys' years ago Chris Juden in the CTC mag describing this technique with photos? Mind you, memory could be faulty a lot more these days?

Your memory is correct.
https://www.cyclinguk.org/sites/default/files/document/migrated/publication/201107050.pdf