Cold setting frame

[andyoxon]

I want to try and cold set a 501 frame (RRS) from 126mm OLN to something approaching 130mm. 

Strangely, I was previously able to pull the frame to insert a shimano 130mm wheel for testing, but today couldn't get another 130mm wheel in (mind you have a dodgy shoulder atm).   
Anyway have had a look at 2008 thread : https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=9138.0

Probably to go for the threaded bolt / washers + string, first off.  Technique-wise how far do I spread the frame in first instance, then check etc?   Is it likely that it may not fully cold set without damage?  i guess one can never quite tell if the brazing's dodgy - frame in outwardly good nick.  Any other tips?

[Karla]

Try an extra centimetre, slack it off, measure it and then go again. 

Don't worry about breaking the frame, 126 to 130 mm will be well within what a steel frame can stand.  I've set a MTB frame from 135 to a Sturmey AW, which is a 25 mm difference.

[nikki]

I think I've seen a few people talking about wrapping a strap around the stays near the brake bridge to reduce the chance of incidents at those joins.

There's a RJ the Bike Guy YouTube video where he's using the threaded rod method, and IIRC he measures the distance he spreads the dropouts to before releasing the tool and then he measures what distance he's got between the dropouts as a result. If you can find that one, that should give you a rough idea, although perhaps it's foolish to assume it'll be the same for different frames.

Good luck with it though - I've got a project coming up where I'll be giving it a go too.

[andyoxon]

Thanks both.  RJ bike guy '126-130mm cold setting" YT video is helpful.

[T42]

I did this with an old hardtail MTB frame in 2011.  No problems.

[rogerzilla]

I do it just by pulling.  Go slowly and keep measuring. Pull each side independently; it is rare that just spreading the dropouts (e.g. with a threaded rod) will give you the same change on each side.  Ideally stick the BB shell in a big bench vice (use old cups to protect it) so you can pull one side then the other.

Check the dropouts for parallelity (is that a word?) when finished.

[aidan.f]

I set a full marathon tandem frame. It was only +5mm but took some heaving. Used straps about 1/3 of the way along seat stays from brake bridge and chain stays bottom bracket. The lateral I left to itself

[rogerzilla]

Some MTBs can also be very hard to reset, although thankfully this is rarely necessary.  Shorter stays and bigger tubes.

[andyoxon]

Thanks.  I'm slightly concerned about frame alignment, about is being able to measure 2mm width each side, with a ruler & some taught string.  Hopefully ~4mm expansion is unlikely to be all on one side anyway.

[DuncanM]

Go to the Broken Spoke workshop and use their tools. I re-set my fixie from 126 to 120 there, and it was really helpful having tools and guidance in getting the rear dropouts aligned. Also, you can use their mech hanger alignment tool to sort that out when you are done.

[andyoxon]

I've reset the oln distance to 130mm. 

I started using the threaded bolt with washers & nuts method, and went to 132mm ish by opening to ~150mm.  Discovered that the DT wheels /Miche hubs still didn't go into the dropouts easily - then realised that the width of the dropout 'slot' must be a bit too narrow on this RRS 501 frame.  The miche hubs have an unthreaded hub 'shoulder' which must be slightly too wide for the frame.  Which possibly explains which I couldn't spring the frame 2mm each side to get the Miche/DT wheels in. 

Some std Shimano wheels fit OK. So at this point I started pressing and pulling the frame, which is surprisingly easy to do - to get the right oln distance which is now at 130mm and SeatT equidistant from string.     Not checked to see if dropouts parallel.

Any thoughts?  I guess I'll just stick to the Shimano wheels, as widening the dropout 'slot' wouldn't be easy/doable AFAICS.

[mcshroom]

If the axle is a bit to wide for the slot, you can file flats on the axle (top and bottom) so the flats can slide into the slot. I did that to get a QR front wheel into an old Raleigh fork before.

That was with a fairly cheap Alexrims whell on a bog standard shimano hub though, so a pretty beefy steel axle.

[mrcharly-YHT]

I altered an MTB hub to fit in road frame - so going 135-130.

Just ground down some of the washers, carefully.

[rogerzilla]

You can file the dropout, but only file the lower edge of the slot.

[andyoxon]

Thanks all.  Tried to file flats on the steel (probably hardened) drive side of the axle for starters, but my beefy flat file removed about an atom's depth after quite a lot of effort - basically just buffed it up a tad.  File was fairly cheap, I wonder if a better carbon hardened steel file, would do the trick.  ATM, don't really want to file the dropout slot  - but an option.  Will removing the paint be much of an issue?  Guess I could rust treat it.

[aidan.f]

The dropouts won't be hardened.  #1 good quality file #2 find a way of clamping the dropouts so you can put some work into the file / dropout interface rather than just vibrating the ends.

[andyoxon]

Thanks.  I reckon probably <1mm or so would do it.  I think I'll initially just use the RS Shimano wheels, which fit with no issues.