Another grand day yesterday with plenty of fine, no superb views at the top of long steady climbs over the Pennines. Only about 50 miles covered which compared to two weeks ago is the equivalent to just one stage of the Mille Alba but it is odd how you can adjust to stopping at 3 cafes and a pub for 3 pints on the way as part of a daily routine. We met two chaps riding the whole thing in one go and not a jot of envy passed through me; there's too much to see and enjoy to rush this ride. As it was dry, we tried a couple of the off-road sections; the best being the spectacular climb up the last hill of the entire route to the old station (and cafe - have forgotten the name - Parkhead?) at the start of the Waskerly Way cyclepath. The cafe does accomodation but as there was no beer, we decided to press on however they do offer a variety of puddings and are well worth a visit.
We have been meeting a cross section of cycling groups on the way (one consisting of 30 cyclists) and most remember our group due to the bottle of McQuigan Shiraz in my bottle holder. Pretty much all of them stopped at Allenheads at the pub where the landlord has something of a grim reputation. I can see how he could rub people up the wrong way but we found him to be OK (if quirky) and to be fair, whilst loads of cyclists were stopping there, we were the only ones drinking beer (our daily 3 pints) which must hack him off. One woman cyclist was being particulary demanding and I could see that this sort of interaction with him was going to get her nowhere. They don't do food during the daytime so we went to the local cafe which seemed pretty disorganised but did a superb meat pie with chips and peas.
The stop over last night was at a bunkhouse at Hownsgill farm which is just outside of Consett. Although we had heard grim stories about this as well (cold showers etc), it was tip top. According to the visitors log, this was also used by the FNRttC crew on their recent ride London to JoG which was a pleasant surprise plus there is a cafe across the yard that serves breakfast from 9 this morning. We got some wine in (given a lift down by the landlord) and ordered a takeaway set meal which was delivered to the bunkhouse and defeated the lot of us.
Consett itself was built on the success of ironstone but 140 years of prosperity came to an abrupt end in 1980. The feeling of a part of the world still in shock and trying to recover are tangible but the warm welcome we have received everywhere gives you hope for the north-east/west's recovery.
It's our last stretch to Sunderland today with a roast dinner booked at the Mad Hatter tea room. Spiffy.
H
