Author Topic: Going Dyno  (Read 3061 times)

Going Dyno
« on: 03 February, 2017, 10:49:28 am »
Did put out a shout for 2nd hand stuff but guess there isn't much of a desire for people to sell on. I'm going to need at least a front wheel but possibly a wheelset as my old mountain bikes converted rather nicely into a touring/winter road bike but does have an rather heavy set of hope wheels on it. Will also need obviously a front light.

I know Rose/Spa are recommended but for whatever reason can't get on with Rose's website. Have seen this on Spa's

http://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s170p3038/SPA-CYCLES-SP-PD-8-Disc-Dynamo-Wheel

or was recommended this by bolt

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231395286118?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Ideally I'd like to get front wheel and light for sub £200 and maybe a bit more if for complete wheelset.

Oh and on the lights I'm fairly baffled by the options, needs to be at the brighter end of the scale and would prefer with USB charger for if I get a cycle computer that can be charged off this in the future

Thanks

Re: Going Dyno
« Reply #1 on: 03 February, 2017, 11:16:35 am »
This might suit you http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=332112990075#ht_500wt_1414.  It is a centrelock disc dynamo attached to a Velocity A23 rim so you can use it rim or disc.  It is Quick release not through axle.

There are two ways to go with bike light and USB charging.  First B&M with USB out or Igaro which you wire in parallel with your light and does all your USB charging.

I had a B&M which failed on me and there are comments about waterproofing so I would possibly recommend a dynamo light of your choice and the Igaro https://www.igaro.com with the advantage that the Igaro is british.

Re: Going Dyno
« Reply #2 on: 03 February, 2017, 12:56:31 pm »
In reverse order:

Light - you won't do better than the B&M IQ Cyo Premium at £48 from Rose (sorry) or e50 from Bike24. Probably worth adding a Secula Plus or Toplight Line Plus if you have a rack - both from Spa

Front wheel - I like the SP hubs for performance and value. Think about rim choices and what you want. You could build a wheel with disc specific rims if you preferred, although cost is likely higher. As a solid, general purpose rim at a sensible price the LX17 is hard to beat. Spa are charging just over 30 on top of the retail cost of parts for the build, which seems fair, and only 5 for delivery. Be aware that light mtb rims may not like the higher pressures used in road tyres.

That lot will be just over 200 all in, unless you can buy the rear light from Germany for less. Or less than 200 without the rear light. You can always add a rear wheel later or just swap the rim/spokes if your current hub is fine.

Mike

Re: Going Dyno
« Reply #3 on: 03 February, 2017, 01:44:52 pm »
Chris is that wheel on eBay something your selling of just exercising the search engine Zen that I lack?

Mike I have no issue with Rose as a company, found them very helpful when emailed them but I for whatever reason find there website hard to navigate. Thanks for the link to the headlight

Re: Going Dyno
« Reply #4 on: 03 February, 2017, 02:11:47 pm »
That is my wheel that I am selling as my new bike is through axle


Re: Going Dyno
« Reply #6 on: 22 February, 2017, 03:01:42 am »
The hub alone retails for less than half the price of Shimano's best dynamo hub, the DH-3N80. No description of the spokes, and no description of the rim. My guess is that it's somewhere at the cheap and nasty end of the spectrum.

Kim

  • Timelord
    • Fediverse
Re: Going Dyno
« Reply #7 on: 22 February, 2017, 12:35:19 pm »
Electrical performance is the same, but the '30' hubs have significantly more drag than the high-end ones.  Okay for a utility bike.

Re: Going Dyno
« Reply #8 on: 22 February, 2017, 01:09:52 pm »
The extra drag of a 3N30 over a 3N80 is about 1.5W
(i.e. about 3W lights off, 8W lights on, at 25 km/h)

The lights off drag is about double, but it's still fairly trivial compared with other sources of extra drag, such as which tyres you use
http://mccraw.co.uk/hub-dynamo-friction/

The bearing quality and seals will also be a step down over the higher end hubs, and the weight will be more, but there's no reason to avoid a 3N30 or 3D30 if the price is iof interest. You should still get several years use from it, by which time you will know whether something better is of interest.

Re: Going Dyno
« Reply #9 on: 22 February, 2017, 05:47:07 pm »
I got one of the bundle deals from Spa a while ago. It is an SP hub with a B&M Luxos U light, mine came with a cheaper back light than the package, but they have gone up a fair bit since and whilst it was over your budget at the time I think it is nearly 50% over now. I have successfully used mine to charge my Garmin Edge Tour (lights need to be off for it not to be a PITA with slow climbs and stops, no additional buffer battery required), although the one time I really needed the facility I was so delirious through exhaustion, sun, and heat that I forgot about it. I think it is probably the cheapest route to reliable USB charging as well as lighting.

I am not overly impressed by the build quality, and the stand light on the back light gave up for a while, but seems to have come back to life now, presumably through improved dryness (I don't think it would like to live out in the rain any more than a cat). I am, however, enormously impressed with its ability to provide useful light at all speeds from a slow walk right up to freewheeling downhill speeds. It claims to be about as bright as the EdeluxII when all of the LEDs are lit, it has a kind of high beam function although I've never felt it actually improved how far ahead I could see, or the level of detail of stuff I could already see. I think. I'm not sure if there are any other lights that provide this range of useful operating speeds.  If you value useful light at low speeds and the USB facility enough then it is perhaps worth considering the additional cost. Anything else it offers, such as the great spread of light, is almost certainly available without those facilities at at rather more favourable cost.

Re: Going Dyno
« Reply #10 on: 23 February, 2017, 06:37:58 pm »
Thanks. Think I'll give it a miss and look for something better or try out some cycle shops when in Germany. Shame not near any Rose bike stores

Re: Going Dyno
« Reply #11 on: 02 March, 2017, 02:20:12 pm »
I have a B+M Luxos U and a B+M Toplight (?)... powered by a Schmidt dynamo though they were originally running on a Shimano when I first had them. They were an upgrade from the original lights I had on the Brompton, a retrofitted B+M iQ Cyo and the Brompton rear dynamo light. I've found them to be excellent, the headlight has a good beam and covers that moment when you go from streetlit to out of town perfectly, I just leave them on now unless I'm at a train station as the rear light as well as having a stand function has an accelerometer fitted so when it detectys you slowing down it gets brighter while you do it... I've noticed cars backing off as a result. The Schmidt dynamo is incredibly pretty and a thing of wonder next to the Shimano.

vorsprung

  • Opposites Attract
    • Audaxing
Re: Going Dyno
« Reply #12 on: 02 March, 2017, 02:30:42 pm »
https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=7&menu=1000%2C2%2C140%2C141&__qf_form-filter=&pgc%5B3796%5D=3800

but compare prices with Spa Cycles, taking into account exchange rates and shipping

http://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s170p0/Parts-and-Accessories/Lights-Dynamo-Lighting-Handbuilt-Wheels

I'd agree that a Cyo is the best front lamp to use.  It's very reliable

Kim

  • Timelord
    • Fediverse
Re: Going Dyno
« Reply #13 on: 02 March, 2017, 02:33:32 pm »
the rear light as well as having a stand function has an accelerometer fitted so when it detectys you slowing down it gets brighter while you do it...

I expect it detects you slowing down by the change in frequency of the 'dynamo'[1] power.  It's like having a cycle computer sensor with 28 magnets, so there's no point in adding a dedicated sensor.

I have noticed that this detecting deceleration approach can cause the light to flash with each pedal stroke when climbing at certain cadences.  A switch on the brake system would perhaps be better, but that adds complexity.


Quote
I've noticed cars backing off as a result. The Schmidt dynamo is incredibly pretty and a thing of wonder next to the Shimano.

Some years ago I built a dedicated slowing-down light as a Sunday afternoon PIC project.  I never really noticed an effect on other road users, apart from other cyclists when riding in a group, who thought it was a good idea after we'd had the "your rear light's got a dodgy connection" conversation.  People simply don't expect a pedal cycle to have a brake light.

In practical terms, I don't think this sort of thing is very useful when the rider's pedalling (or lack thereof) is visible.  I'd only consider it really worthwhile on a cargo cycle or velomobile.  Consequently when I last bought some dynamo lights I opted to save the extra tenner and bought the Toplight Line Plus without this functionality.


[1] Technically it's a magneto, as the output is AC.

Re: Going Dyno
« Reply #14 on: 31 October, 2017, 06:47:05 am »
Right getting my act together and sorting this finally. Light is sorted. Just need to sort the front wheel now. 26" disc compatable and ideally 6 bolt.

Budgets about £100 for the wheel. Seem to be various ones on eBay from Taylor bikes.

Bike 24 as suggested seem to have lots. Rose bikes may but as I said I just can't work out there website.

Just slightly bemused by all the choices and due to it still being rather niche in this country can't do my preferred going to a shop to have a look.

Any further input much appreciated

Re: Going Dyno
« Reply #15 on: 31 October, 2017, 07:33:10 am »
These are a cheap disc compatible dynamo, albeit center lock but I think you can convert

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/dynamos/shimano-dh3d37qr-6v-30w-quick-release-centre-lock-disc-dynamo-front-hub-silver-36-hole/

Choose a suitable rim and by 36 spokes and it just needs putting together. SJS also have a dynamo wheel at 80, though you'd need to ask if they would build one with a disc hub.