Author Topic: Senegal...  (Read 1566 times)

Treewheeler

Senegal...
« on: 14 June, 2009, 10:03:42 pm »
Any-one been there?
 Thought about riding home from Dakar...

Re: Senegal...
« Reply #1 on: 14 June, 2009, 10:25:23 pm »
Not been, but a chap I met in the US recommended it as a touring destination.  He said there was some type of government scheme that provided accommodation in villages for tourists to bring money in. Can't remember what it was called though.

He did suggest a charter flight to the Gambia as the easiest & cheapest way to get there.

Trip report here http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/jnewcomb/3/1196445720/tpod.html
Not fast & rarely furious

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Jezza

Re: Senegal...
« Reply #2 on: 14 June, 2009, 11:00:08 pm »
I would think cycling in Senegal to be pretty good - usual African travel standards apply, so rough going in places, but a real adventure. Your problem's going to be further north. Mauritania may be heavy going - keep an eye on the security situation, and check travelblog.org and thorntree to see if anyone's been that way lately. Overland trucks do pass through en route to Dakar, but most go down the coast. Inland there can be problems with militants. Western Sahara is very undeveloped (I think John Spooner's been there recently) and the border is mined. And it's probably best to avoid Algeria - last time I was there the border with Morocco was closed anyway.    

Treewheeler

Re: Senegal...
« Reply #3 on: 16 June, 2009, 10:17:10 pm »
Thanks for your replies.
 I know the Algerian border is closed to cycle tourists, shame really.
 IF I go it will be to meet a friend who is on his way back to France. Bruno has been cycling around the world by less travelled roads.
 Gambia... now thats another stamp in the old 'passaporte si vous plait...'

Re: Senegal...
« Reply #4 on: 16 June, 2009, 10:29:20 pm »
I have ridden in both Gambia and (briefly) Senegal. On the main roads trucks do not deviate from their path at all when coming up behind cyclists: it is expected that the cyclist will get off the tarmac when a lorry is heard coming up behind. There are a few lorries that will move over but most will not and will react with astonishment if you do not automatically get off the road (the first few times, I assumed that since there were had been no oncoming vehicles for the last half hour, and since the road was easily wide enough for two trucks, that they'd give a bit of room. Nope.) Usually this is easy enough to do as the roads generally merge into a sort of dusty sloping hard shoulder.
Vehicles are often badly maintained (all the UK's ageing Mercs seem to end up in Africa). Actually, no, they are cleverly kept going by all manner of recycling of parts, but the brakes are often ropey. Along the roadsides there will be frequent evidence of horrific accidents - mini-buses are the way the locals travel and they can be jam packed, doors tied shut with bits of string etc - such as mini-buses compressed to about a third of their original length by some old French truck.
The only decent vehicles will be the Land Cruisers of the NGOs, and from time to time you'll get a glimpse of some local crim threading his Lambo through the potholes.

Treewheeler

Re: Senegal...
« Reply #5 on: 17 June, 2009, 07:21:04 pm »
And...
 Go on , this is the kind of stuff I need  :thumbsup:
What about eating and accomodation...?
 

Re: Senegal...
« Reply #6 on: 17 June, 2009, 07:52:31 pm »
Gambia:
Might be worth researching the political situation nearer the time, I think it is a bit unstable at the moment. Travellers, as a source of income, are usually well looked after though.
I recall seeing some rather robust policing methods. Avoid any contact with soldiers.
Every village will have its bustling incredibly noisy market (normal conversational volume is about 9/10). Chunks of meat hang, literally covered in flies. Speaking of flies, the Gambia has flies like I've never seen before - but then I am not all that well travelled - you can stop for a minute, no flies, 30 seconds later there is a fly, 30 seconds later you are being devoured by insects that do not seem to care whether they live or die. Starving flies.
I did not, however, have any belly woe in either country - take the usual precautions with uncooked food and water sources - and be careful with ice. In fact, avoid ice unless it is from a big hotel or somewhere you can rely on the source of water.
Food is decent enough - one of the best places to find cheap eats was to find where the taxis park in the larger villages - there would always be a little tin hut or something nearby where the taxi drivers would eat. Lots of nice fish (I was generally near the coast) butterfish and others I have not had before, plus rice and cheap-ish fruit. Bottled water readily available.
Watch the sun: it was always overcast with heavy looking cloud out there but this did not prevent me being burnt to cinder to begin with.
In the Gambia you'll be seen as a nutter for cycling anything other than a short distance. Out of the bigger towns, you'll be quite an event. Kids will shout "toubab, toubab" and before long you'll have a gathering just staring at you. Get used to it. The locals are always friendly but may be a bit shy. Be careful taking photos - ask permission - for instance, taking photos of a market scene in which you inadvertently include women can go down badly.  
In the bigger towns, near hotels, you'll be accosted by people trying to get you to go to this or that restaurant or bar, and will happily attempt arrange a liason with their "sister". These guys can be right pain in the arse and you need to be forthright from the off. Friendly, but a firm no. Most of them are not Gambians but are from Nigeria or Sierra Leone etc.
More in a bit. Must dig out some photos.

Another thought: if you fly to The Gambia, you'll be pounced on on arrival by various characters all claiming to be this or that. They can be very convincing. Basically they are just touts operating for various hotels, taxi drivers, etc. Keep a hold of your luggage or it will be whisked off somewhere by someone who will convincingly claim to have been waiting there just for you.

microphonie

  • Tyke 2
Re: Senegal...
« Reply #7 on: 19 June, 2009, 08:39:23 am »
Might be worth contacting Bike Dreams - they do a supported Paris-Dakar ride & even though I imagine they're pretty self-sufficient re accomodation they should have some idea about food & security issues.
Bingo! That's what I am, a saviour.
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