Keep the disc bolts torx. The only time you will need to remove them will be if you need to replace wheel bearings or spokes.
yup I agree, although there is possibly some confusion over nomenclature
C - CSK socket head
D - Caphead socket head (allen)
E - Button head socket head
F - Hexagon Head
The torx bolts that are used to attach discs are like E, but with a torx socket i.e. they are torx socket button heads.
If you try to use the screws above there are problems as follows
C - wrong head shape entirely. Torque rating on socket inadequate.
D - head too tall and will foul fork on front disc fitting. Questionable torque rating on socket for repeated use on discs
E - head the correct shape but torque rating on socket inadequate
F - head too tall (just, usually) for front disc as per D. Best torque rating on head.
I fit the usual torx screws (as per E but with a torx fitting that is at least +50% stronger than a 3mm allen key) or I fit 'F' having machined the head down for front fitment. The head is usually so shallow that the countersink on some sockets etc is too much and not every socket (or ring spanner) will work without the end being ground square.
The torx screws are normally quite reliable but if you do lots of work on bikes you quite often get one that strips instead of unscrewing normally. The screws (on unmaintained bikes) often end up with more tension in them because of corrosion in the interfaces.
The force required to unscrew the bolt is partly friction in the threads and partly friction under the head of the bolt. When the fastener tension increases, so do the friction elements. If the key fitting strips, and you have to grind the head off the bolt, it isn't unusual to find that the threaded portion of the bolt unscrews from the hub using just your fingers, once the tension is gone.
cheers
