Yet Another Cycling Forum
Random Musings => DIY => Skip Bike and Bodge It => Topic started by: Si on 08 April, 2008, 11:08:42 am
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Here’s a thread for everyone to list their favourite bodges.
What is a bodge? I like to think of it as a repair or improvement that includes a little lateral thinking and doesn’t require buying an expensive new part from the bike shop. Reuse, recycle, remanufacture.
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Here’s oldie but a goodie to start you off.
Keeping your hub bodies clean. Why bother with all that agro with the toothbrush between the spokes? Just put a strap loosely around the hub (an Armstrong L1vestrong wrist band works well) and as the wheel turns the strap will jump about and stop most of the dirt accumulating.
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Things to do with old inner tubes #1. Don’t spend your hard earned wedge on Marsas tape, just split the old inner tube open length ways, wind it around your handlebars, secure with a bit of electrical tape and put the normal bar tape on top. Added comfort at no expense and one less tube on the landfill site.
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Elastometers
You've either an old MTB with elastometer suspension, or a folding bike that has elastometor bump-stop/suspension. But, woe is you, the elastometer has gone hard and your beautiful plush ride is no more. You hunt around the net: but a new elastometor is nowhere to be found, what to do, what to do?
Boil it!
Fill a bowl with boiling water (get an adult to help you) and drop the elastometer in for around thirty seconds. Carefully fish it out, let it dry and hey-presto, it's squishy again.
This isn't a permenant solution, you'll find that after a while it starts to go hard again. You can, of course, boil it again, but the times between boilings tend to get less and less. At this point you need to get your whittling knife out and make a new elastometer from one intended for a different bike.
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If, like me, you rarely cut steerers on threadless forks, either because you might one day want to fit the fork to another frame, or you suffer from back problems and might need to raise the bars at some point, don't pad the steerer out with spaces, no, instead put two stems on it. One points up, the other down. One takes your handlebars, the other takes a sawn off bar. Thus you can fit loads of bar furniture: computer, lights GPS, bar bag, etc with little trouble, and because they are at different heights the bar bag won't interfer with the lights.
As a used stem can be picked up for peanuts this works out both cheaper and stronger than a space grip.
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Here’s oldie but a goodie to start you off.
Keeping your hub bodies clean. Why bother with all that agro with the toothbrush between the spokes? Just put a strap loosely around the hub (an Armstrong L1vestrong wrist band works well) and as the wheel turns the strap will jump about and stop most of the dirt accumulating.
Except you can't get it on there except when building a wheel ;D
Old-skool CTC types use a little buckled leather saddlebag strap.
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Things to do with old inner tubes #1. Don’t spend your hard earned wedge on Marsas tape, just split the old inner tube open length ways, wind it around your handlebars, secure with a bit of electrical tape and put the normal bar tape on top. Added comfort at no expense and one less tube on the landfill site.
Matt Chester recommends mouse mats to pad handlebars - cut to fit and wrap tape over the top.
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I know an old chap who uses old inner tubes to weatherproof his headsets. He cuts old ones up so he has six inch lengths. Then, double wraps them over the top and bottom once a year when he removes the forks for a check and regrease before winter.
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You can boot a ripped tyre with a piece of folded crisp packet; it will stay in place when the tube is inflated. Don't use a piece of fag packet as it will shred within a few miles - I found this out the hard way (and before anyone asks, I don't smoke; it was just the first thing I found lying about).
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Last Saturday, on a 200 perm, I traced a rattle on the fixie to a loose mudguard bolt, then discovered my multitool didn't have an allen key of the right size for the bolt. I tightened the bolt as far as I could with Finger Power (tm), then stretched a bit of rubber band between bolt and mudguard stay to serve as an impromptu washer.
No more rattly mudguard misery...
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You can boot a ripped tyre with a piece of folded crisp packet; i
or Australian banknotes
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24 x 1 3/8" inner tubes fit MTB tyres OK and are much lighter. Only problem - they're hard to find nowadays, since "junior racers" have died out.
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You can boot a ripped tyre with a piece of folded crisp packet; i
or Australian banknotes
You can buy a new tyre with Australian banknotes.
If you are in Australia and are near a bike shop.
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You can buy a new tyre with Australian banknotes.
If you are in Australia and are near a bike shop.
And if GruB hasn't squandered them on ice cream.
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Here’s a thread for everyone to list their favourite bodges. What is a bodge? I like to think of it as a repair or improvement that includes a little lateral thinking and doesn’t require buying an expensive new part from the bike shop. Reuse, recycle, remanufacture.
1) Many have made mudguard mudflaps (http://www.amba-marketing.com/smsimg/58touringmudflap.jpg), bleach bottles in same colour as the frame to accessorize, handy on the back guard as well as front as it helps keep your friends clean, plus on a bike ridden at night you can put reflective strips on it.
2) Wine or even better still Champagne/Cava corks (http://www.myclubbing.net/uploads/blog/resized/1163336129champagne%20cork.jpg) with a bit of fettling instead of bar end plugs, a good holiday reminder on your tour bike that
3) Quil pedals (http://www.bikeplus.co.uk/graphics/mks_sylvan_roadth.jpg) with the right technique can be used as bottle openers
Paul_Smith (http://www.bikeplus.co.uk/graphics/Paul_Smith_Home_Page.jpg)
www.bikeplus.co.uk (http://www.bikeplus.co.uk/)
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Conventional QR levers can be used as tyre levers - no need to carry that extra weight.
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Not sure if this counts as a bodge, and it's not mine.
Brian Mann's homemade pen holder. Keep a pen handy for those Audax info controls.
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff320/jspooner99/P1010402.jpg)
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Don't use your low-rider bosses? With a bit of aluminium tubing as a spacer (B&Q), a few washers and a long M5 bolt, you can put any standard dynamo headlamp on there. It's a very rigid connection and won't fatigue like those useless steel fork crown brackets...at least, if your fork fatigues you'll have more to worry about that which way your front light is pointing :o
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Don't use your low-rider bosses? With a bit of aluminium tubing as a spacer (B&Q), a few washers and a long M5 bolt, you can put any standard dynamo headlamp on there. It's a very rigid connection and won't fatigue like those useless steel fork crown brackets...at least, if your fork fatigues you'll have more to worry about that which way your front light is pointing :o
I have used low rider bosses as a lamp boss for years on the Blue here (http://www.bikeplus.co.uk/graphics/531_Pearson_Bikes.jpg), works a treat
Paul_Smith (http://www.bikeplus.co.uk/graphics/Paul_Smith_Home_Page.jpg)
www.bikeplus.co.uk (http://www.bikeplus.co.uk/)
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Don't use your low-rider bosses? With a bit of aluminium tubing as a spacer (B&Q), a few washers and a long M5 bolt, you can put any standard dynamo headlamp on there. It's a very rigid connection and won't fatigue like those useless steel fork crown brackets...at least, if your fork fatigues you'll have more to worry about that which way your front light is pointing :o
The thread on a QR skewer is M5, extend it down and cut it short and have a QR and adjustable lamp.
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How is the light throw with the lamp mounted there ? I may consider it for La Chignole next year.
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Don't use your low-rider bosses? With a bit of aluminium tubing as a spacer (B&Q), a few washers and a long M5 bolt, you can put any standard dynamo headlamp on there. It's a very rigid connection and won't fatigue like those useless steel fork crown brackets...at least, if your fork fatigues you'll have more to worry about that which way your front light is pointing :o
The thread on a QR skewer is M5, extend it down and cut it short and have a QR and adjustable lamp.
I use the thread on a QR skewer as well
(http://www.bikeplus.co.uk/graphics/QR_Skewer_Boss.jpg)
Paul_Smith (http://www.bikeplus.co.uk/graphics/Paul_Smith_Home_Page.jpg)
www.bikeplus.co.uk (http://www.bikeplus.co.uk/)
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The light throw is better than usual, because you can have a long bright patch on the road without having the lamp pointing downwards too much - so it's also more visible to oncoming traffic.
The tyre doesn't really cast an annoying shadow if your lamp has a tight beam (like the Schmidt E6 - I haven't tried the Supernova E3 down there yet), but Tony Oliver used to mount his on the left side of the fork to avoid this. If you mount your only headlamp on the left, bear in mind that it's technically illegal under UK law and the lamp will be hidden from oncoming traffic, albeit only just before they pass you.
A refinement to this tip is to use V-brake dished/domed washer pairs either side of the lamp for incredibly precise aiming.
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The lamp I would use is not my E6 but one of my Sigma Ellipsoids which I have modified to operate from my dynamo hub and have a switch. These lamps use a 2.4 or 3.0 watt halogen and have a good reflector and lens. They illuminate the full width of the road about 3m ahead and throw light immediately in front with enough power to illuminate reflective signs at the distance one wants to see them. I suppose I should try it lower down. The fork blade is an ideal out of the way place for a lamp and easy to mount with a bolt and spacers.
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Bent your rear mech. hanger?
The rear axle thread is the same size as the derailleur fixing bolt. Remove the derailleur, screw the end of your axle in it's place, and use the wheel as a lever to bent the hanger straight. :thumbsup:
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A 700c tube will work on a 26" tyre. Just fold over the excess. On lightweight tyres you may get some unevenness in ride, and I wouldn't go overboard on the pressure, but it will get you home.
A touring tip: if you run out of water on a hot day, try around the back of a church. There is often an outside tap for the graveyard flowers. Check that it's mains pressure first, though.
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5 miles (8k) into a 100k audax today my saddle came away from the seatpost. I stopped OK but the
nail screw bolt had snapped (I shouldn't have had that second bowl of Frosties at breakfast ::-)). The only vaguley shaped bolt was holding my cantilever brake cable. There was a bolt in the tools for a 'traditional' seatpost but mine is a weird racing one with two bolts, so he used the unbroken one where the most strain was, and screwed a nut onto the end of the broken bolt. Once screwed together it worked for the rest of the ride, I just had to be careful. :)
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Handlebars cluttered? Unused pair of Cinelli Spinacis (or similar) in the shed? Cut off a straight section and mount it in one of the brackets to make an excellent, rigid place to mount your GPS - which can go out of the way, centrally above your stem.
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Handlebars cluttered? Unused pair of Cinelli Spinacis (or similar) in the shed? Cut off a straight section and mount it in one of the brackets to make an excellent, rigid place to mount your GPS - which can go out of the way, centrally above your stem.
Like this?
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2270/2069520874_c0418e502c.jpg?v=0)
Ok, I used both brackets and a section of straight handlebar, and I ain't got a GPS, but it works for lights etc too. :thumbsup:
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Like this?
Mine (single-sided) puts the GPS above the middle of the stem because I ride a recumbent, and mounted anywhere else it fights with my knees!
But yours is very nice too. And let's face it, Spinacis aren't much use for anything else, are they? :)
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If you use a mudguard and a pannier rack and the guard rubs the tyre, lash the mudguard to the rack.
If the mudguard stays are proving problematic, perhaps because there is only one eye on the rear dropout, and the guard touches the rack at some point, drill the guard where it touches, cable tie it to the rack and forget about the stays.
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If you use a mudguard and a pannier rack and the guard rubs the tyre, lash the mudguard to the rack.
If the mudguard stays are proving problematic, perhaps because there is only one eye on the rear dropout, and the guard touches the rack at some point, drill the guard where it touches, cable tie it to the rack and forget about the stays.
A bit like this, then?
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2290/2097295881_c94c9cce3d_m.jpg)
:thumbsup:
Also, lashing the stays (rather than screwing) allows them to pull clear in the case of a jam...
And BBQ skewers make good stays... 8)
If you have a rack with a solid upper surface, why use a mudguard below it? Just extend out the back:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2402/2098076816_c9e309e67f_m.jpg)
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The gear cable on the Triplet broke the other day. The cable is nearly 4 metres long. Instead of buying a new one I put a new standard length front cable in the shifter, and joined it to the remaining part of the original cable with a couple of electrical connectors.
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The gear cable on the Triplet broke the other day. The cable is nearly 4 metres long. Instead of buying a new one I put a new standard length front cable in the shifter, and joined it to the remaining part of the original cable with a couple of electrical connectors.
An AA man did something similar to the clutch cable of my Capri once.
"That'll last you a couple of months" he said.
It broke six days later, descending the northen side of the Galibier :(
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The gear cable on the Triplet broke the other day. The cable is nearly 4 metres long. Instead of buying a new one I put a new standard length front cable in the shifter, and joined it to the remaining part of the original cable with a couple of electrical connectors.
An AA man did something similar to the clutch cable of my Capri once.
"That'll last you a couple of months" he said.
It broke six days later, descending the northen side of the Galibier :(
I did something similar to repair the throttle cable on an old VW beetle.....used one of the wires from the rear speakers and attached with the electrical connections. Worked fine, but then a clutch has a much bigger spring than a carb.
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The gear cable on the Triplet broke the other day. The cable is nearly 4 metres long. Instead of buying a new one I put a new standard length front cable in the shifter, and joined it to the remaining part of the original cable with a couple of electrical connectors.
An AA man did something similar to the clutch cable of my Capri once.
"That'll last you a couple of months" he said.
It broke six days later, descending the northen side of the Galibier :(
I did something similar to repair the throttle cable on an old VW beetle.....used one of the wires from the rear speakers and attached with the electrical connections. Worked fine, but then a clutch has a much bigger spring than a carb.
It is also possible to use a short piece of gear/brake cable and an electrical connector as an emergency spoke repair kit (you don't need to take the cassette off either).
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Bent your rear mech. hanger?
The rear axle thread is the same size as the derailleur fixing bolt. Remove the derailleur, screw the end of your axle in it's place, and use the wheel as a lever to bent the hanger straight. :thumbsup:
Also useful: If you have a crossed thread on the hanger (it happens!), find an old axle and use a file to cut a V in the end of the threads to turn it into a simple tap. If you run it in from the inside of the frame, it will clean up the thread nicely.
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Please do not do this!!!:- see replies from Mal Volio & JJ
Aluminum frames have large diameter tubes, and invariably the cable stops are integral to the frame.
Unfortunately, the adjuster bolts in my example of such a frame seized up. Attempts to loosen the bolts failed, so I did this:
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj163/jharris2268/bodged_dt_cable_stops_2.jpg) (http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj163/jharris2268/bodged_dt_cable_stops.jpg)
To mount the band-on (originally part of a set of dt shifters):
1. Bend the band such that it matches the profile of the down tube
2. Mark where the bolt holes of the band are on the tube
3. Drill two 2mm holes. Note that aluminum is soft, and aluminum tubes are thin, so it won't take many turns of a hand drill.
4. 'Tap' the holes using a 2.5mm steel bolt.
5. Use such bolts to attach band to frame.
Neither pretty nor clever, but surely better than getting rid of the frame? My engineer friends weren't that impressed, though.
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My engineer friends weren't that impressed, though.
That's definitely a bodge, not an engineered solution. Well done!
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Shamelessly thieved from somewhere else (though I can't remember where). Fitting a rear light onto a rack: cut the bottom off an old seatpost, hacksaw a suitably sized groove in it, file the groove to shape and voila:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3215/2927770776_84a1f1355f.jpg)
If it isn't level, you have two options. Option A is continue filing until it's perfectly level and pack the space a bit. Option B is lash it into place any old how with electrical tape. :thumbsup: for option B.
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Clamping something intended for thinner MTB bars onto road bars (e.g. shifters and bells)
ONLY TRY THIS WITH THIN STEEL CLAMPS!
Get a longer clamping bolt than the one supplied, a Nyloc nut and a washer. Make a kink in the bolt by putting it in a vice and hitting it with a hammer. Bend the clamp to fit the wider bars and you'll find the holes no longer line up, hence the need for a bent bolt. Tighten the nut while holding the bolt still, not the other way round.
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Shamelessly thieved from somewhere else (though I can't remember where). Fitting a rear light onto a rack: cut the bottom off an old seatpost, hacksaw a suitably sized groove in it, file the groove to shape and voila:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3215/2927770776_84a1f1355f.jpg)
If it isn't level, you have two options. Option A is continue filing until it's perfectly level and pack the space a bit. Option B is lash it into place any old how with electrical tape. :thumbsup: for option B.
Simpler and neater..
I just wrapped some old innertube around the rack until it was the same thickness as a handlebar, wrapped some insulation tape around it to prevent unwrapping and then the pressure exerted by the lamp bracket clamps the whole thing in place. It's been fine for 2.5 years and 8000 miles.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u249/freddered/Various/cateye.jpg?t=1223650126)
You can also twist it up and down if, for example, the Audax rider behind you is getting blinded and it will stay put without slipping.
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Shamelessly thieved from somewhere else (though I can't remember where). Fitting a rear light onto a rack: cut the bottom off an old seatpost, hacksaw a suitably sized groove in it, file the groove to shape and voila:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3215/2927770776_84a1f1355f.jpg)
If it isn't level, you have two options. Option A is continue filing until it's perfectly level and pack the space a bit. Option B is lash it into place any old how with electrical tape. :thumbsup: for option B.
Simpler and neater..
I just wrapped some old innertube around the rack until it was the same thickness as a handlebar, wrapped some insulation tape around it to prevent unwrapping and then the pressure exerted by the lamp bracket clamps the whole thing in place. It's been fine for 2.5 years and 8000 miles.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u249/freddered/Various/cateye.jpg?t=1223650126)
You can also twist it up and down if, for example, the Audax rider behind you is getting blinded and it will stay put without slipping.
I've done the same. Neat and flexible... :thumbsup:
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Nice one, Lee :thumbsup:
Sadly, when I did the same, it kept slipping. So I tried a different approach.
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3. Drill two 2mm holes. Note that aluminum is soft, and aluminum tubes are thin, so it won't take many turns of a hand drill...
Neither pretty nor clever, but surely better than getting rid of the frame? My engineer friends weren't that impressed, though.
:o
Blimey
I wouldn't ever drill into an Al frame.
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No kidding Stress concentration - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_concentration)
If it were mine, I'd check it for cracks pretty often.
At the very least I'd avoid the North Atlantic and wear a parachute.
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I discovered quite by chance yesterday that the blanking plate from the back of a PC expansion slot makes a perfect carrier for a Halfrauds Bikehut rear light. The hole in the blanking plate even matches the locating lug on the light. It was a simple matter to cut the elbow off the plate and drill a mounting hole in it to fix to the rear rack of my hack bike.
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I discovered quite by chance yesterday that the blanking plate from the back of a PC expansion slot makes a perfect carrier for a Halfrauds Bikehut rear light. The hole in the blanking plate even matches the locating lug on the light. It was a simple matter to cut the elbow off the plate and drill a mounting hole in it to fix to the rear rack of my hack bike.
Wrap it up in insulation tape and it wont go rusty.
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...
:o
Blimey
I wouldn't ever drill into an Al frame.
No kidding Stress concentration - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_concentration)
If it were mine, I'd check it for cracks pretty often.
Thanks for the advice!
I looked out for cracks when I did this. It looks fine 6 months later, but obviously I can't see what is happening inside the tube. In any case, the frame is retired now.
wear a parachute.
Who doesn't?
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Extreme sport mtb dude?
Tie a bit of innertube across the stanchions of your fork above the wheel.
Keeps a bit of the mud off. :thumbsup:
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Gear cable snappage? Small nut, washer and bolt combination to clamp around the stub of cable adjacent to the mech to set the mech on a sprocket/ chainring that makes finishing the ride doable.
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Extreme sport mtb dude?
Tie a bit of innertube across the stanchions of your fork above the wheel.
Keeps a bit of the mud off. :thumbsup:
To clarify, this should be between the fork crown and the arch, not between the stantions.
As per the commercial version, pictured here (http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/bikes-and-gear/accessories/mudguards/MBK221.tested.guard-399-75.jpg).
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3. Drill two 2mm holes. Note that aluminum is soft, and aluminum tubes are thin, so it won't take many turns of a hand drill...
Neither pretty nor clever, but surely better than getting rid of the frame? My engineer friends weren't that impressed, though.
:o
Blimey
I wouldn't ever drill into an Al frame.
I did see a MTB the other day that had a rack fitted, it was an Italian coke can thin XC race job, which has the exact same ally plate drop outs as my Saracen
The chap had drilled and tapped the big drop out plate to hold a rack, seemed to be OK-ish
I think :-\
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I'd be less worried about dropout plate, as long as the hole is nice and smooth
I drilled the Al crown of the carbon forks on my Pomp in 2003 without too many qualms. I'd not drill tubing tho'
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I'd be less worried about dropout plate, as long as the hole is nice and smooth
I drilled the Al crown of the carbon forks on my Pomp in 2003 without too many qualms. I'd not drill tubing tho'
I wouldn't either
A tube is strong because its a tube with out ragged holes near points of stress.
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Ever-loosening cranks can be fixed by inserting strips of thickish paper between the bottom bracket axle square faces and the crank. Cut or tear them to the width of the flats and have a slight overlap at the front to stop them slipping back as you push the cranks on. Best done when creaking starts before the crank socket distorts.
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Gear cable snappage? Small nut, washer and bolt combination to clamp around the stub of cable adjacent to the mech to set the mech on a sprocket/ chainring that makes finishing the ride doable.
Just use the lower limit screw and turn it until the mech alignes the chain with the ring/sprocket of choice.
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Ever-loosening cranks can be fixed by inserting strips of thickish paper between the bottom bracket axle square faces and the crank. Cut or tear them to the width of the flats and have a slight overlap at the front to stop them slipping back as you push the cranks on. Best done when creaking starts before the crank socket distorts.
An American couple were attempting something similar on their tandem on PBP. The fact that no-one present knew the French term for "aluminium foil" probably didn't help...
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Ever-loosening cranks can be fixed by inserting strips of thickish paper between the bottom bracket axle square faces and the crank. Cut or tear them to the width of the flats and have a slight overlap at the front to stop them slipping back as you push the cranks on. Best done when creaking starts before the crank socket distorts.
An American couple were attempting something similar on their tandem on PBP. The fact that no-one present knew the French term for "aluminium foil" probably didn't help...
"Stella Artois", surely?
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To be able to use a bar bag, the front light had to go elsewhere, so i put it on the front mudguard. Even a light light (as opposed to a heavy light...) eventually cracked the mudguard when vibrating over bumps, and when I got the solidlights I knew the mudguard wouldn't last half a mile with that on the end, so this is the bodge:
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-11/1104901/DSC_0011.JPG)
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-11/1104901/DSC_0010.JPG)
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-11/1104901/DSC_0012.JPG)
Two picture frame hangers, rivetted to the mudguard with washers both sides, then chopped down mudguard stays bolted on with the usual mudguard eyebolts.
It's sturdy enough to hold a brick, so probably just about strong enough for the solidlights.
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To be able to use a bar bag, the front light had to go elsewhere, so i put it on the front mudguard. Even a light light (as opposed to a heavy light...) eventually cracked the mudguard when vibrating over bumps, and when I got the solidlights I knew the mudguard wouldn't last half a mile with that on the end, so this is the bodge:
I did that some years ago with a lightweight dynamo lamp, except I used an old mudguard bridge to attach the stays in the conventional manner. I'd seen it on French touring and cummuting machines many times and consider it a very neat way of attaching the lamp. The only problem is that the lamp is in exactly the right place to get all the spray back from the leading edge of the mudguard, and so needs cleaning often.
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My light bracket:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2537/3853689650_56840221e8.jpg)
The active ingredients are a long M5 bolt, an expanding wedge bar end, and a 1" to 1 1/8" stem adaptor sleeve. And electrical tape, of course.
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To be able to use a bar bag, the front light had to go elsewhere, so i put it on the front mudguard. Even a light light (as opposed to a heavy light...) eventually cracked the mudguard when vibrating over bumps, and when I got the solidlights I knew the mudguard wouldn't last half a mile with that on the end, so this is the bodge:
I did that some years ago with a lightweight dynamo lamp, except I used an old mudguard bridge to attach the stays in the conventional manner. I'd seen it on French touring and cummuting machines many times and consider it a very neat way of attaching the lamp.
By "conventional manner" do you mean attaching them at the bottom near the dropouts? I'm sure it's just as good but I had those unused low-rider bosses just begging for the job.
The only problem is that the lamp is in exactly the right place to get all the spray back from the leading edge of the mudguard, and so needs cleaning often.
I thought that at first but in practice it's not a problem. I suppose if I do a lot of muddy stuff I might change my mind about that!
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By "conventional manner" do you mean attaching them at the bottom near the dropouts? I'm sure it's just as good but I had those unused low-rider bosses just begging for the job.
No, I too used the low rider bosses. As a you say - ideal, simple, and quite elegant. By conventional manner I meant that the additional stays attach to a mudguard fitting (a fitting removed from old mudguards, one where the stays attach to the mudguard) in the conventional manner. The mudguard fitting was simply attached to the mudguard by a single bolt through the mudguard, which also served as the fixing bolt for a simple and low profile lamp bracket.
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I went down the expanding bar end plug route as well, I used it with just a short off cut of piece bar and it is now bolted to an old computer mount, the off set kind that sits the computer over the middle of the stem clamp. My old vista now lives ban in the middle of the bars and leaves room for the back up light.
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The mudguard fitting was simply attached to the mudguard by a single bolt through the mudguard, which also served as the fixing bolt for a simple and low profile lamp bracket.
Excellent - bypasses the malarky I had to deal with to drill a block to fit the light mount to... see pics. It's ended up very solid but rather heath robinson all the same. Now you've mentioned that I might re-do it some time if I find the right kind of mudguard bridge...
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A rather crude bodge, I'm afraid - the rear mudguard on my Brompton broke. For the last year, at least (I forget) it has been held together by a wire coathanger, cunningly wound around the mudguard stays & crimped in place, & some reflective gaffa tape.
Mrs Bs road bike has a dynamo headlight (brake bolt mounted), fitted with a plug compatible with the battery pack from the good old Smart twin headlights. With a 6W bulb, it's not a bad light. My old Roberts had the same arrangement. The light fitted nicely under my Carradice bar bag, lighting up the road nicely without dazzling me. The Smart lights go on our mountain bikes.
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A pretty obvious one this; an oil can for hard to reach places.
1x Pump action bottle. The Body Shop lemon foot spray bottle is a handy size.
1x Diffuser top & straw from a can of GT85
Swap existing diffuser on pump action bottle with diffuser from can GT85. Put oil in pump action bottle*. Use.
*Probably a good idea to clean it out first tho' eh?
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I use a 12" steel rule to measure chain wear, and have previously judged by eye the extra 1/16" at which the chain should be replaced. I was considering buying a longer ruler, but I already have more than one steel rule, so made a small modification using the other steel rules and a(n already blunt) stanley knife.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4391953249_32ca146930.jpg)
I'm surprised it took me so long to think of this (blindingly obvious) solution!
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This is actually a bodge:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/ado15/WARTYWhsh017.jpg)
[/quote]
The Shimano 600 Arabesque groupset seems to have only been produced with band-on levers. And it's mighty purty. But my bike, though 1980, has some custom features ahead of its time (vertical dropouts; brazed on lever bosses etc). So I took the levers off their band, and used the curved spacer from my ole Shim Light Action levers. The spacers are a bit haphazard, and I have to admit the RH lever does unscrew a bit with use, meaning it won't always hold the tension*, but oldskool riders will be used to giving the latch a tweak now and again.
Looks fine, tho, dunnit? :D
* Yes, of course it's friction! Why would I want to use anything else? ;)
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The 600 Arabesques would fit directly onto a lever boss that was designed for old-skool Campag levers. I used them thusly on my Merlin, c1983
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The spacing wasn't quite right for mine (the screw wouldn't tighten far enough), so I had to root around for a suitable sprung washer.
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(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6147/6005796913_e7587090e1_m.jpg)
Had a job removing a casstte lockring the normal way - using a large adjustable spanner and chain whip. The chain whip actually broke. So this was solution number 2, after the chain whip was repaired. Anchor the wheel in corner of garage door with an old chain nailed to the post. Get an extra piece of pipe onto the adjustable and with less strain on the chain whip I was able to put far more power into the right hand with the extension. Worked first time. What a cracker!
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:thumbsup:
Nice gloves btw. :-*
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Whilst on a short Tour of Belgium Mick's freewheel packed up and lost drive so to keep him going I used a cargo strap and threaded it through the inner sprocket to the spokes.
This allowed him to use it as a sort of fixedwheel and ride 10 miles to a bike shop 'Henys' in Poperinge where they fitted a new wheel for him :thumbsup:
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6196/6024223774_a691be11e9_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/abkHR9)
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Those old battery lights (pre-LED) had large lenses that made excellent wine glasses when bus shelter touring.
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Bagman support using 3 cable ties.
Stops saddlebag saggage for almost no cost or weight penalty.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u249/freddered/Misc/RackSupport.jpg?t=1312887887)
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Whilst on a short Tour of Belgium Mick's freewheel packed up and lost drive so to keep him going I used a cargo strap and threaded it through the inner sprocket to the spokes.
This allowed him to use it as a sort of fixedwheel and ride 10 miles to a bike shop 'Henys' in Poperinge where they fitted a new wheel for him :thumbsup:
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6196/6024223774_a691be11e9_z.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/abkHR9)
.
Just because you're a fixed wheel nut, doesn't mean everyone else wants to be one!
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Since I got the folding pedal on my Borm, I've been mildy concerned about the way it can go over centre and hit against the frame when it's all folded. I mentioned it to MFWHTBAB how it needed some padding, and he said "What you need is a length of cable sleeve split lengthways and a couple of zipties.
What a stroke of luck that we'd just pulled a length of pyro cable off the wall in preparation for some plastering.
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6165/6132978203_a190cb5bf3.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59866846@N02/6132978203/)
DSCN2522 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59866846@N02/6132978203/) by Panticle (http://www.flickr.com/people/59866846@N02/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6195/6132975969_978593e3ea.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59866846@N02/6132975969/)
DSCN2518 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59866846@N02/6132975969/) by Panticle (http://www.flickr.com/people/59866846@N02/), on Flickr
Concept by MFWHTBAB, realisation by me.
(yes, if I'd been patient I'd have flaked all the old paint off, but I figure it'll come off eventually)
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Dismantled an unused Klickfix maptrap, a little of trimming with a Stanley knife to fit the back of a Legend HCx (a rather bruised and battered spare back plate, courtesy of Kim )
Drilled right through the Klickfix with a 1/8" dia drill, then counterbored the "top" with a 5mm.
UNC4-40 x 5/8" long socket head screws through and into the threaded hole in the Garmin back, and a 5g packet of sugru to fill the gaps and repair the damage in the back plate.
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt318/porkypete58/GarminKlikfix.jpg)
The Klickfix bracket is really secure on the stem, and mounts the screen an inch or so higher (every little helps - my eyes are getting no younger). Doesn't tend to mess up the sticky band on the Garmin Legend like the predecessor RAM mount did.
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt318/porkypete58/GarminKlikfix2.jpg) (http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt318/porkypete58/GarminKlikfix3.jpg)
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I'm not proud of this one, but it did get me home when I was running out of options.
Due to a somewhat convoluted set of circumstances, I found myself in the middle on nowhere with a flat tyre, both spare tubes already used, and no usable puncture repair kit. I did, however, have a Park Tools self adhesive tyre boot. As a very last resort, I tried wrapping this firmly around the inner tube, slipping it back into the tyre, and pumping gently. To my astonishment, I couldn't hear a hiss, so kept pumping until the bike was rideable. Even more amazingly, I then rode it like this for about 50km back to event HQ, with no further drama except a slight judder from the rear wheel at high speeds.
I note that this morning the tyre is flat, so this is very definitely just a get-you-home solution. But it does seem to work as a last resort!
Me, I'll be super-careful to make sure I don't pick up an old puncture kit with a dried-out tube of adhesive in future. But I'll be sticking with my policy of carrying a Park boot on longer rides, too...
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Not sure if this is a bodge or not.
How to get six speeds from a Sturmey Archer X-RD3 three speed hub and still use 1/8" chain.
Remove the single sprocket and the plastic dust cover from the drive end. Replace with a 16t and 18t dished sprocket so as to have the widest gap between the teeth. The spring clip should still fit. On mine the 16t is a 3/32" and the 18t is a 1/8" so that might make a difference.
Fit a rear mech designed to clamp in the horizontal drop outs.
Set the high screw limit to align with the 16t. Ignore the 18t low screw as it won't have the reach as a stop.
Use a friction shifter but ensure the limit on the end of the shifter is on the low gear side. This is what stops you shifting the chain into the spokes.
Connect a cable and adjust so that when the lever is on the stops the 18t is selected and when the selector is moved off the stop the 16t is selected.
Instant wide range hub ratio splitter.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y179/Eversley/Bikes/DSC_0046.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y179/Eversley/Bikes/DSC_0044.jpg)
I did have more photos but can't find them now.
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(http://www.jon.demon.co.uk/images/double_bike_bodge.jpg)
Two in one:
- Cat-eye with broken bracket attached to rear reflector bracket with various odds and ends found in shed. When found to be too wobby reinforced with a bent spoke
- Rear mudguard similarly attached via cunning use of bent piece of rusty metal of unknown origin
(Not visible: original seat post rusted into place. After many hours trying to cut it out, just hammered the remains it down inside, bought new seatpost and chopped the end off until it was short enough not to hit the old one)
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Halfords red reflective tape turns a GoPro case into a very good rear reflector, with the added benefit of highlighting the camera's presence to drivers.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/Minitar1/Phone%20Stuff/IMG_1860.jpg)
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Not mine, but this one made me smile the other day. I saw in in the bike shed after work. I presume it's a larger capacity battery bodge for a light intended for use with small replaceable batteries. If I ever see the owner I'll ask for details. Looks like the archetypal academic's bike and bodge:
(http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv40/notwhatucallanatural/Bike%20stuff/front%20light%20battery%20bodge%20in%20bike%20shed/IMG_20130516_182627_zpsca116457.jpg) (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/notwhatucallanatural/media/Bike%20stuff/front%20light%20battery%20bodge%20in%20bike%20shed/IMG_20130516_182627_zpsca116457.jpg.html)
(http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv40/notwhatucallanatural/Bike%20stuff/front%20light%20battery%20bodge%20in%20bike%20shed/IMG_20130516_182555_zps9ecadc09.jpg) (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/notwhatucallanatural/media/Bike%20stuff/front%20light%20battery%20bodge%20in%20bike%20shed/IMG_20130516_182555_zps9ecadc09.jpg.html)
(http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv40/notwhatucallanatural/Bike%20stuff/front%20light%20battery%20bodge%20in%20bike%20shed/IMG_20130516_182701_zps1460d95a.jpg) (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/notwhatucallanatural/media/Bike%20stuff/front%20light%20battery%20bodge%20in%20bike%20shed/IMG_20130516_182701_zps1460d95a.jpg.html)
ETA: The two speedo's perform different roles - one is a speedo, the other is for cadence!
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I wouldn't ride that anywhere that is a bit sensitive for the anti-terrorist lads!
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Can we have non-bike bodges? Yesterday evening, I watched MFWHTBAB panel beat a flashing kit to replace the one missing from the second hand Velux window I got for free last year, using copper from some old cut up immersion tanks.
It's times like that, among many others, that I know why I love him so much....
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Don't use your low-rider bosses? With a bit of aluminium tubing as a spacer (B&Q), a few washers and a long M5 bolt, you can put any standard dynamo headlamp on there. It's a very rigid connection and won't fatigue like those useless steel fork crown brackets...at least, if your fork fatigues you'll have more to worry about that which way your front light is pointing :o
such a good bodge that a well known touring specialist in Harrogate now sells something similar for about eight quid. Should have saved the cash
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Bodged a repair on the cracked rear SKS mudguard on my Thorn.
LBS did not have any replacement narrow guards in stock so glued and clamped a 6 inch piece of old mudguard over the bit that was cracked with some epoxy glue from the pound shop.
It dried surprisingly quickly and is holding up so far.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3859/14787796159_c6390e4d50.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/owKjAK)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3853/14807672710_bc01760f99.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oyvccU)
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Not bike related but, as hinted elsewhere-
We got our ride on mower back from its service today complete with a new flashing orange beacon onna pole to keep the elf 'n safety Nazis at bay.
The pole is a foot too tall for the mower to be stored in the 'garage' so I have had to fettle a folding pole bodge- remove 3 of the 4 bolts at the bottom of the pole (vertical bracket fixing pole to chassis), loosening the 4th slightly. Transform forward bolt hole into a slot with a bit of hacksawage then replace forward bolt with a bolt and wing nut. Feed all the excess in the power cable from the switch end to the pole mount end and the pole now pivots backwards. I am in the process of bodging a tether to stop it pivoting too far back. When in use, the pole is pivoted forward and secured by tightening the wing nut.
Photo's will follow in The Appropriate Thread
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/mattlangridge/Photo0037.jpg) (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/mattlangridge/media/Photo0037.jpg.html)
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/mattlangridge/Photo0038.jpg) (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/mattlangridge/media/Photo0038.jpg.html)
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/mattlangridge/Photo0039.jpg) (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/mattlangridge/media/Photo0039.jpg.html)
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/mattlangridge/Photo0041.jpg) (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/mattlangridge/media/Photo0041.jpg.html)
It now fits in the 'garage'.
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The Bins For Jane thread is that way --->
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It's only that way if you if you turn the thread through ninety degrees. Which would be an æxcellent bodge in itself.
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Bagman support using 3 cable ties.
Stops saddlebag saggage for almost no cost or weight penalty.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u249/freddered/Misc/RackSupport.jpg?t=1312887887)
It surprises me that Carradice do not add a bar across the width, not only to prevent saggage, but to make the support more rack-like for when the bag is not a attached. Would then allow say a small dry pack or other odds and sods to be carried.
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More an economical bodge-enabler than a bodge - DW40 on eBay is IMO even better than WD40, at a fraction of the price. Decant onto an empty Granger's Proofer bottle for precision spraying.
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Because of one of these-
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/mattlangridge/Photo0091.jpg) (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/mattlangridge/media/Photo0091.jpg.html)
due to failure of one of these-
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/mattlangridge/Photo0086.jpg) (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/mattlangridge/media/Photo0086.jpg.html)
I took some of these-
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/mattlangridge/Photo0089.jpg) (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/mattlangridge/media/Photo0089.jpg.html)
and did this-
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/mattlangridge/Photo0087.jpg) (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/mattlangridge/media/Photo0087.jpg.html)
to facilitate this-
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/mattlangridge/Photo0088.jpg) (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/mattlangridge/media/Photo0088.jpg.html)
which led to this-
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/mattlangridge/Photo0092.jpg) (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/mattlangridge/media/Photo0092.jpg.html)
How long till the little darlings restructure it I wonder?
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They have non-illuminated posts, both concrete and wooden, at the end of the cul-de-sac leading to Fort Larrington. It is opposite a primary school. I do not think there is a single one which has not at some time been killed utterly to DETH by a Yummy Mummy in an Audi 4x4.
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Made a new fixing eye for my Cyo with Sugru.
(http://i.imgur.com/5wvPXAa.jpg)
Seems to be holding.
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Made a new fixing eye for my Cyo with Sugru.
Ooh, I'll be interested to hear how well that lasts. I've got a Cyo with the same problem.
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Ooh, I'll be interested to hear how well that lasts. I've got a Cyo with the same problem.
Three months so far, although I haven't ridden that bike much- maybe averaging twice a week. Let's see if it makes it through the winter when I'll be using it every day.
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I've had a really annoying Cateye blinky for about a year, a TD-LD560. It came out of the bargain bin in the LBS and it's supposed to come on automatically when it gets dark, it has a light and movement sensor in it (so- presumably- it goes off when you park your bike in the shed). You can disable this function by holding down the on/off button according to the manual.
As soon as I put batteries in it the thing started blinking and no matter what sequence of pushing/ holding down the on/off button I tried it remained on forever. I never got around to returning it.
Today I took it to work to have a look at it. I extracted the PCB and noticed there were copious flux residues all over it (not surprising it wasn't cleaned but it wasn't very appealing). I chucked it into a beaker, sloshed in some isopropanol and a bit of deionized water and buzzed it in the ultrasonic bath for an hour (I thought of firing up the semi-aqueous cleaner but didn't, not because it was overkill but because I'd have to fill up the wash tank). Gave it a nice rinse in deionized water, stuck it in an oven at 80C for 30 mins.
And now it works. I can turn the damn thing on, cycle through the blinky phases, and then turn it off.
Don't know whether it was a case of using some crappy solder paste/ other flux or whether there was some other conductive contaminants on the board.
Easily the most satisfying job I've done all year, if not in my entire life.
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I extracted the PCB
copious flux residues
sloshed in some isopropanol
deionized water
buzzed it in the ultrasonic bath
firing up the semi-aqueous cleaner
conductive contaminants on the board
Reading this makes me feel so inadequate. I've no idea what those words mean. But I am seriously impressed. I'd have binned it and bought a new one. Which would have been about one-thousandth as satisfying.
Chapeau.
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I bet a squirt of IPA directed at the switch would have achieved the same job. Tactile switches are rubbish.
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I've had a really annoying Cateye blinky for about a year, a TD-LD560. It came out of the bargain bin in the LBS and it's supposed to come on automatically when it gets dark, it has a light and movement sensor in it (so- presumably- it goes off when you park your bike in the shed). You can disable this function by holding down the on/off button according to the manual.
As soon as I put batteries in it the thing started blinking and no matter what sequence of pushing/ holding down the on/off button I tried it remained on forever. I never got around to returning it.
Today I took it to work to have a look at it. I extracted the PCB and noticed there were copious flux residues all over it (not surprising it wasn't cleaned but it wasn't very appealing). I chucked it into a beaker, sloshed in some isopropanol and a bit of deionized water and buzzed it in the ultrasonic bath for an hour (I thought of firing up the semi-aqueous cleaner but didn't, not because it was overkill but because I'd have to fill up the wash tank). Gave it a nice rinse in deionized water, stuck it in an oven at 80C for 30 mins.
And now it works. I can turn the damn thing on, cycle through the blinky phases, and then turn it off.
Don't know whether it was a case of using some crappy solder paste/ other flux or whether there was some other conductive contaminants on the board.
Easily the most satisfying job I've done all year, if not in my entire life.
I'd like to say you need to get out a bit more but, I am damn impressed with your satisfying fettlage :thumbsup:
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I bet a squirt of IPA directed at the switch would have achieved the same job.
It's likely, yes.
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I'd like to say you need to get out a bit more but, I am damn impressed with your satisfying fettlage :thumbsup:
I also fixed an iPhone battery connector at lunchtime using a soldering iron (fiddly!) but I reckon the cheaper and more insignificant a thing is the more satisfaction there is in fixing it.
I bet if I fixed a flashing bowtie I'd be feeling great for a month afterwards.
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I bet a squirt of IPA directed at the switch would have achieved the same job. Tactile switches are rubbish.
That would be a criminal waste of good BEER thobut.
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I bet if I fixed a flashing bowtie I'd be feeling great for a month afterwards.
This morning I've been handed a very important job, soldering a broken connection on a string of LED lights which are usually attached to my colleague's son's saxophone.
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I extracted the PCB
copious flux residues
sloshed in some isopropanol
deionized water
buzzed it in the ultrasonic bath
firing up the semi-aqueous cleaner
conductive contaminants on the board
Reading this makes me feel so inadequate.
That's my job. I just noticed you finished PBP!
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Made a new fixing eye for my Cyo with Sugru.
Ooh, I'll be interested to hear how well that lasts. I've got a Cyo with the same problem.
It's still holding up, even survived a crash just before christmas. I think it's good-enough.
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Dismantled an unused Klickfix maptrap, a little of trimming with a Stanley knife to fit the back of a Legend HCx (a rather bruised and battered spare back plate, courtesy of Kim )
Drilled right through the Klickfix with a 1/8" dia drill, then counterbored the "top" with a 5mm.
UNC4-40 x 5/8" long socket head screws through and into the threaded hole in the Garmin back, and a 5g packet of sugru to fill the gaps and repair the damage in the back plate.
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt318/porkypete58/GarminKlikfix.jpg)
The Klickfix bracket is really secure on the stem, and mounts the screen an inch or so higher (every little helps - my eyes are getting no younger). Doesn't tend to mess up the sticky band on the Garmin Legend like the predecessor RAM mount did.
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt318/porkypete58/GarminKlikfix2.jpg) (http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt318/porkypete58/GarminKlikfix3.jpg)
Just wondering if anyone else has done anything similar?
Six years on and this mount has outlived two Etrexes !
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I'm quite impressed with that, sugru lasts ages, obvs
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Minor bodge. Currently using a C&B Seen rear light, attaches with an O-ring. The place I liked to mount it was on the bit of seat tube that sticks up under the seat clamp, but here it would rattle against the seat clamp plus it would twist around somewhat. Stuck a little cushion made out of Sugru on the back, made an impression of the seatclamp in it, then let it dry. Much better now.
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Not sure I've posted this anywhere before, a pretty standard bodge, but works really well for all the silly sustrans gates I have to go through if I take the trail to work.
Pushed the brake / gear levers up as far as they'll go on the bars, hacked about 3-4cm off the end of each. I can now go through the gates without having to dismount and turn the bars to fit through. It's so much nicer.
(https://i.imgur.com/kPXuF4S.jpg)
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Though it might be more productive to take the hacksaw to the gates...
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Though it might be more productive to take the hacksaw to the gates...
That's quite a lot of work. If I take the full trail route to work, I go through 4 of the things. Cycle path route, 2 of them. Road route 0. You can guess which is the quickest.
Portable angle grinder perhaps. ;D
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And you didn't even have to stop cycling! Was there a moment as you approached the gate when you weren't sure you were going to finish cutting but the end fell off just in time?
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And you didn't even have to stop cycling! Was there a moment as you approached the gate when you weren't sure you were going to finish cutting but the end fell off just in time?
Nahh, I bet he stopped to pick up that socket set. Not often you get a chance to out-do Blodwyn Pig on finding things during a ride.
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I cut MTB bars down, because they're all too wide for easy breathing and the local trail has a pair of trees near the end that are only 2' apart.
The downside is that winter comes and you realise there is no space left to put a light.
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The downside is that winter comes and you realise there is no space left to put a light.
Or there's plenty of space, but it's all of an inconsistent diameter and at a weird angle to the direction of travel.
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Got a Fly6 rear light/ camera. All the rubbery coating has come off the velcro strap so it slides around, did a quick fix with whatever was available in my desk drawer at work- stuck a sticky fixer to the back of the light and then stuck a small rectangle cut from a wide elastic band on top of that. Pretty good (I'm sure the Loctite applications people who share our site could have found something to recoat the strap but for this I didn't need to leave my seat)
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Made a new fixing eye for my Cyo with Sugru.
(http://i.imgur.com/5wvPXAa.jpg)
Seems to be holding.
Noticed it is coming loose today, lasted well-enough though. Will either replace the light or try to remake the fixing eye with mouldable epoxy.
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Cor, that's lasted well.
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Cor, that's lasted well.
Decided to spring for a new one, but it's lasted longer than I expected (and it's still fairly secure- I gave it a good wiggle to check it wasn't about to drop off and swing into the front wheel)
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Cor, that's lasted well.
Decided to spring for a new one, but it's lasted longer than I expected (and it's still fairly secure- I gave it a good wiggle to check it wasn't about to drop off and swing into the front wheel)
Replaced it yesterday. The Sugru held up well, failure was due to further cracking in the plastic of the mounting eye. Might even repair it again and use it on my Elephant Bike.