Just after the border with Karachay-Cherkess Republic I stop to ask some water.
My plan is to find a place to camp just after a set of villages. My request of
water is answered with an invitation for tea, an invitation I gladly accept. BUt
it doesn't end with tea, a whole meal appears ont he table. The neighbour's
daughter, who speaks good English, is invited to. No chance fo leave before the
night. A long evening of food, tea and conversation follows, only interrupted by
a visit to the neighbour's banja. A perfect display of Caucasian hospitality.But
they tell me long tales of the other side of the Caucasus, of assasinitions
and of the risks of the Caucasus after dark
The next day I experience the danger myself.
In the last village before the Gumbashi pass I restocked with supplies. At
2030m Gumbashi pass is one of hte highest road passes in Russia. Most
traffic takes a detour via a lower road so after the village traffic was
scarse. A few km down the road two man sitting on a concrete block addressed
me. They posed the usual friendly questions. They asked me to come behind
the blocks due to the traffic. Immediately behind the blocks I didn't feel
that comfortable. I was right in my feelings, they started to ask for money
when they sensed my changed attitude. 2000 roubles they wished (abt. 40 Pound)
and threatened to beat me. I was not very eager to part with this sum. So I
tried to get out of the situation. Luckily I was only 50m from the road.
When one of the men started to threat slashing my tires with his knife I
start to pull some money out, very slowly, 10 rouble bill by 10 rouble
bill. Just when I ran out of 10 rouble bills the two men started to get a bit
nervous since they heard a car coming. They tried to pull me and my bike
behind the bushes, luckily it's not that easy to drag a loaded touring bike
for the uninitiated. Everyone fell to the ground and I was the first to be
on my feet again, running to the road. The car had already passed so I drew
my mobile, but alas, no signal. But still they could see me with my mobile
phone. A 100m down the road a shepherd was visible. I ran to him and
explained that I needed help. Just as I was talking to him the two men
appeared 300m down the road, running. The shepherd immediately gave chase
while I searched for my bike. The bike was ok, only some mud on the
panniers. Not a single item was missing. When I returned with my bike to the
road I saw the two men running very fast towards the village. THe shepherd
was quietly going up again. I thanked him and he told me that the men were
afraid of his nervous horse. Anyway, two not so experienced robbers don't
have a chance against a mounted shepherd with a dog. I thanked him again and
resumed my ride up the mountain pass. I was glad that all ended in my
advantage. They were the ones who received the biggest shock. And I was
strengthened in my opinion that staying calm and non-violent is mostly the
best option in such a situation.
Shortly before the top of the pass I entered the clouds, a pity since from
the top, on a clear day, mount Elbrus is visible. On the descent I suffered
the only puncture of this trip. Apart from that, the descent was great,
without major difficulties. Still occasional cows on the road called for
attention. At the entrance Karachajevsk there was the usual police control.
I told the officers that I had an incident with two bandits down the road. I
couldn't give a proper discription of the man so no use of filing an
official report. Jonkingly one of them offered me to sell his gun.
I didn't feel that safe in Karachajevsk. Too many men standing around
looking for a cheap and fast rouble. At the busstation there were only small
Gazelle buses. Since it's a dead-end road to Dombay I'd decided to take a
bus up. Prices quoted were insane, 500 rouble for the 40km trip n a
marshrutka. So I set out by bike. Not long after I left Karachajevsk the
same marshrutka overtook me and stopped. Now the price dropped to a more
acceptable 100 ruble. I agreed. The driver dropped me of in Teberda. From
Teberda on cars and buses have to pay a special tariff to enter the national
park. Cyclists are only registered and don't have to pay, except with their
sweat. So the final bit to Dombay I cycled again. The rain had stopped and
between the clouds wonderful panoramas were visible. Dombay has a wide
range of accomodations. I settled for the dorm room of the mountain rescue
team. Sadly no other guests so I had to spend the night on my own.