Author Topic: Geared vs Fixed Bike Fit (Read 10342 times)

D.A.L.E. · « **on:** 06 November, 2020, 05:15:54 pm »

All things being equal and with two identical frames. One being setup as a geared bike, one as fixed. Would you change anything in terms of fit? I.e. you'd drop the nose of the saddle on the fixed or have a little less width in the bars on the geared bike.

JonB · « **Reply #1 on:** 06 November, 2020, 05:40:44 pm »

I run them the same or as close as the frames and fittings allow. The only difference is I run 170mm cranks on my main fixed bike and 172.5 on the geared but I think this was to do with what I had available at the time to build up the fixed and since starting with that length I've stuck with it. There is an argument for running even shorter cranks on fixed to avoid pedal scrapes when cornering but I don't think I ever get over that far and it's not been an issue. I don't mess with saddle angles or heights, I have experimented with bull horns for fixed and quite liked it but currently running drops and not sure I'll go back to bullhorns (they were on a different bike that's moved on).

Ian H · « **Reply #2 on:** 06 November, 2020, 06:09:47 pm »

As near an identical set-up as possible for me.

fd3 · « **Reply #3 on:** 07 November, 2020, 03:15:44 pm »

My geared bikes are laidbacks ...

sojournermike · « **Reply #4 on:** 07 November, 2020, 03:36:06 pm »

I’ve set them up the same, but 170 cranks instead of 175. That’s only because I couldn’t find a suitable chainset in 175 mind. The last time I scraped a pedal was over 30 years ago - racing the cars around York near the Barbican on my geared Orbit Gold Medal:)

LittleWheelsandBig · « **Reply #5 on:** 07 November, 2020, 03:41:57 pm »

My geared and fixed road bikes have very similar fits. The fixed has the handlebars slightly closer but that is mostly because it is mainly used as a commuter and I rarely ride on the tops in traffic.

drossall · « **Reply #6 on:** 07 November, 2020, 04:09:09 pm »

Mine are as similar as I can get them.

Deano · « **Reply #7 on:** 07 November, 2020, 04:12:51 pm »

Pretty much the same, just shorter cranks (165 mm on fixed, 170 mm when geared).

Tomsk · « **Reply #8 on:** 13 November, 2020, 08:19:44 pm »

Likewise: 165mm (72" gear as standard) on the main, long distance fixed, (170 x 68" on the winter fixed bike, just 'cos that's what was available) and 170 on gears. 44cm bars on fixed and roughstuff/tourer, 42cm on the geared audax bike. All now on Soma Highway One bars (https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/highway-1-bar), but a lovely short reach (75mm), square-ish shape but smooth curves (if you see what I mean), narrow radius bends and shallow drop with long rearward extension. First time I've got identical shape bars after decades of any old stuff on various machines, from Cinelli Campione del Mondo massively deep racing set-up, to narrow (38cm I think) '70s Randonneur bars.

165cm and a 72" gear is easier downhill - no knee pain in the latter stages of the last PBP, unlike two previous fixed editions. With my long legs, 165mm must be massively undersized!

Jakob · « **Reply #9 on:** 14 November, 2020, 02:05:18 am »

Drop saddle height 0.5". It'll help you spin faster.

Hot Flatus · « **Reply #10 on:** 14 November, 2020, 07:56:44 am »

Same. If you are pedalling, you are pedalling.

Chris N · « **Reply #11 on:** 17 December, 2020, 09:31:53 am »

Shorter cranks and therefore a higher saddle. I might put the bars slightly higher on fixed, but only so it's easier to get into the drops.

rogerzilla · « **Reply #12 on:** 18 December, 2020, 09:45:03 am »

Shorter cranks and, ideally, a more rearward sitting position with an appropriately short stem*. This makes things a bit safer when you grab a handful of front brake and forget to keep pedalling, which at some point you will.

*ok, my Harry Quinn track bike has a 130mm stem, but it has a VERY short top tube - probably a custom build for someone who wanted it to look as cool as possible

Jakob · « **Reply #13 on:** 28 December, 2020, 03:39:50 am »

Quote from: chris n on 17 December, 2020, 09:31:53 am

Shorter cranks and therefore a higher saddle. I might put the bars slightly higher on fixed, but only so it's easier to get into the drops.

Why shorter cranks? I run 175s

rogerzilla · « **Reply #14 on:** 28 December, 2020, 10:29:03 am »

Quote from: Jakob on 28 December, 2020, 03:39:50 am

Quote from: chris n on 17 December, 2020, 09:31:53 am
Shorter cranks and therefore a higher saddle. I might put the bars slightly higher on fixed, but only so it's easier to get into the drops.

Why shorter cranks? I run 175s

Cornering clearance and spinnability at 170rpm.

Chris N · « **Reply #15 on:** 28 December, 2020, 07:09:59 pm »

sojournermike · « **Reply #16 on:** 28 December, 2020, 07:28:13 pm »

Plus, there aren't that many 175mm fixed/track cranksets.

Jakob · « **Reply #17 on:** 29 December, 2020, 03:27:14 am »

Quote from: sojournermike on 28 December, 2020, 07:28:13 pm

Plus, there aren't that many 175mm fixed/track cranksets.

Sugino, Shimano?
Granted, I got raised BB height, so corner clearance isn't an issue.

rogerzilla · « **Reply #18 on:** 30 December, 2020, 11:41:38 am »

Out of interest, how high? I find 10 3/4" is good enough with 165mm cranks but I'd want more than 11" with 175mm cranks. I tried my singlespeed as a fixie but it was scary - 170mm cranks and a 10.5" BB meant a couple of pedal grazes on mini-roundabouts before I put the freewheel back on!

(Apols for mixed units)

LittleWheelsandBig · « **Reply #19 on:** 30 December, 2020, 11:51:46 am »

With 170mm cranks, 11” is the absolute minimum BB height I am happy with on fixed, road or track.

Hot Flatus · « **Reply #20 on:** 30 December, 2020, 11:58:38 am »

I have never, not once in my life, experienced pedal strike, either fixed or geared. 172.5mm cranks on everything

LittleWheelsandBig · « **Reply #21 on:** 30 December, 2020, 12:08:57 pm »

I used to deliberately pedal strike during criteriums to disconcert wheelsuckers.

Brucey · « **Reply #22 on:** 30 December, 2020, 04:32:27 pm »

as important as BB height and crank length are both Q and the design of your pedals. Even the width of your shoe soles can be the limiting factor.

With most of my bikes (including my track iron) I would (in the dry) expect to get pedal strike before I ran out of grip. As LWaB implies, in certain kinds of racing you are flirting with pedal strike often. [I never got good enough to get a deliberate strike that didn't also threaten to tip me off...]

cheers

DuncanM · « **Reply #23 on:** 30 December, 2020, 05:02:56 pm »

I tore a Brooks saddle almost in half with my knee due to pedal strike on my fixie. Somehow I stayed upright - I don't know if the knee/saddle interface helped or hindered. The saddle was pretty old, but no amount of duck tape could make it rideable for more than a couple of miles. I now run 165mm cranks and M520s on the fixie (pedal strike was probably significantly contributed to by M454 pedals).

hubner · « **Reply #24 on:** 30 December, 2020, 05:14:40 pm »

Keep the bike more upright but lean the body more, or doesn't that work?

Author Topic: Geared vs Fixed Bike Fit (Read 10342 times)

Chris N

Chris N