130mm hub

[Zipperhead]

Can anybody suggest a rear hub, preferably not too expensive, that's spaced for 130mm dropouts?

I don't want to respace this frame to 120mm (it's too nice) and I'm not sure that the wheel that is currently being used has enough axle left to add a pair of spacers (although I'll know when I measure it)

[Deano]

Faced with this problem a couple of years ago, the cheapest I could find were Goldtec.  I was using a re-spaced hub, which I continued to use until eventually buying the Goldtec.

As I recall, the only other ones were Royce and the ENO hub, which were £120 ish.

If your axle is too short, you could probably pick up an axle and cones for a pittance and re-space the hub - I think I paid a fiver to a LBS for a cheapo alloy axle which hasn't bent yet, and given later experiences with that LBS, that was probably expensive.

[border-rider]

If it's a 130 frame and it's steel, you'll get away with a 126 or 135 hub.

I did PBP with a 130 hub inna 135 frame the first time, and my commuter had 135 in  130 for years.

Not a great idea for Al or carbon tho'

[Craig]

Surly hubs are available in 130mm, and maybe a bit cheaper than Goldtec.

[Zipperhead]

If your axle is too short, you could probably pick up an axle and cones for a pittance and re-space the hub - I think I paid a fiver to a LBS for a cheapo alloy axle which hasn't bent yet, and given later experiences with that LBS, that was probably expensive.

Good idea thanks. It's an On One hub, I've got a spare (trashed) one in the garage so I could pull the axle out and look for a longer one.

If it's a 130 frame and it's steel, you'll get away with a 126 or 135 hub.

I did PBP with a 130 hub inna 135 frame the first time, and my commuter had 135 in  130 for years.

Not a great idea for Al or carbon tho'

Yes it is steel (why would anybody want a plastic frame?  ) a 126 would be easy enough.

Currently his frame is 126mm with a 120mm hub, 126 in 130 would be 2mm easier than that.

Surly hubs are available in 130mm, and maybe a bit cheaper than Goldtec.

Ta, I'll go off and have a look. I did look at Goldtec hubs earlier, they looked very nice but were a bit more than I wanted to pay for this project.

[drossall]

So are Goldtecs still the best bet?

I bought a basic rear with sealed bearings a couple of years ago for my commuting fixed. The bearings are giving up. The front's not great either, so it's new wheels for me.

I could buy parts and build, or go for a complete pair. I'm using a road frame, so need 130mm 700Cs. It's going to work out as a fair investment if I order complete wheels on Goldtecs, but are there cheaper alternatives good enough to consider? This is supposed to be a hack bike, but does most of my mileage.

I'd want double fixed; I don't have much use for a single freewheel.

Thanks for any suggestions...

[iakobski]

If the rims are still good change the bearings.

These are reasonably cheap double fixed spaceable. I can't say how long lasting they are, but also from SJS the Miche Primato £75/pr the rear lasted me over 35,000 km all weather riding.

[drossall]

Not sure whether I can with these hubs. Not too sure what brand the hubs are either. Obviously with better ones I'd do that.

That's one of the reasons I'm not keen on sealed bearings.

[drossall]

Update - thanks for the pointer Jake. I've managed to find the purchase record, and it's a Suzue reversible hub. Also I bought it six years ago, not two, though I know I didn't use it straight away. I'm assuming therefore that I can replace the bearings with these - going to give it a go, anyway.

It's age catching up with me - I'm used to cup and cone bearings. I've always regarded sealed ones as cheap and disposable. Looks as though I can follow this though and it'll be straightforward.

[1gear]

SJSC own brand fixed hubs can be spaced up to 130mm. I had them like this when i used it in my old steel frame. Came with front hub aswell.

[drossall]

Just an update - fitted new bearings successfully today, so thanks to Jake for that. Plenty of advice available on the Web. I liked the tip of putting back the old ones over the new while you are tapping them in. Some people recommend a socket as a tool, because of the need to keep the load on the outer bearing ring when tapping into place. I found that a stack of old bottom-bracket and one-inch-headset cups worked well instead - was able to build the stack out beyond the wheel axle, and so tap the bearings straight in, instead of having to work carefully round the edge of the bearing trying not to get it out of line.