I crossed the Tendürek Pass today, 2644 metres ASL. A new record for me! The weather was warm - first time it's been above freezing for about a week. There were great views of Mt Ararat on the climb and te only sour note was a few brats calling "money money" when I rode past. I do know how to say "fuck off" in Turkish, thanks to Ercan.
A few of the drivers tried to stop me going over the pass; one guy who had come over the other way told me the snow was more than a metre deep, and a pair of brothers saw me, skidded the car to a halt and reversed at full speed so they could tell me to go back down. I had a few offers of lifts, including once at 2500 metres - does anyone expect me to have taken that and missed out on the descent after climbing for four hours? I was pleased, once again, to have my iPhone, as I could use the altitude app to tell me my altitude.
I knew I could bail out and freewheel back to Dogubayezit if conditions were too difficult, and the majority of drivers either smiled and waved or ignored me, so I carried on. Tales of impassable conditions and walls of snow were greatly exaggerated. The road was clear, apart from an inch or two of snow at the edge which made the road a bit narrower, and of course it was cold. The descent was quick but broken up by one or two little climbs where I could get working again and warm up a bit. I've found a cheap hotel about 100km north of Van. There was no chance of camping - it's a white wasteland out there.
I've just been checking out the two possible border crossings into Iran from Van. Serou is a long detour and involves four or five mountain passes. Kapiköy is my preferred crossing since it's a bit shorter and it parallels the railway so it's likely to be a bit lower, which may make camping feasible. I came across this Wikileaks cable which refers to Kapiköy, which made me smile:
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/wikileaks-files/nuclear-wikileaks/8297090/TURKEY-IRAN-BORDER-A-TALE-OF-TWO-CUSTOMS-POSTS.html(Gurbalak is the crossing from Dogubayazit by the way, which I would have crossed today if I hadn't come south over the pass)