Author Topic: What have you fettled today? (Read 2173008 times)

ElyDave · « **Reply #12650 on:** 22 December, 2017, 03:36:12 pm »

Mounted dynamo light on the road bike now I have the dynamo wheel on there. That seems to be working OK.

Also connected the USB Werk, not sure yet on that as I've not tested it. Bought two extra spade connectors to connect to the rear light which I've not yet mounted. May do that tomorrow or Sunday, time willing.

rogerzilla · « **Reply #12651 on:** 22 December, 2017, 05:39:18 pm »

A pair of NOS M536 SPDs from the 1990s turned up so I pumped some fresh Shimano grease into them (haven't used the plastic axle cartridge removal tool for years!) and fitted them to the Kilauea. They were only £16! Made in Japan, none of your shit.

David Martin · « **Reply #12652 on:** 23 December, 2017, 08:55:56 pm »

Replaced the stay bolts on young'un's bike. Found that tube of threadlock I bought in Norway 20 years ago and finally got round to using it in an attempt to prevent them rattling loose and costing a small fortune again.

clarion · « **Reply #12653 on:** 27 December, 2017, 01:52:44 pm »

Repaired the boiler.

Yay me!

Vince · « **Reply #12654 on:** 27 December, 2017, 01:57:02 pm »

Used kettle de-scaler to free up the diverter valve on the bath taps/shower.

Plug1n · « **Reply #12655 on:** 27 December, 2017, 02:54:21 pm »

Fitted some replcement draw runners on an office cabinet I got from Habitat in Brussels 30 years ago, now like new again.

They had been bust for about 20 years, but I didn't realise that 17mm grooved drawer runners were a standard "thing".

£2.69 for a pair from Screwfix.

(not surprising if these don't last)

Mr Larrington · « **Reply #12656 on:** 27 December, 2017, 05:40:48 pm »

Repressurised the CH at Fort Larrington.

Kim · « **Reply #12657 on:** 27 December, 2017, 05:55:09 pm »

Quote from: Mr Larrington on 27 December, 2017, 05:40:48 pm

Repressurised the CH at Fort Larrington.

Ah, if that counts as fettling, I did the CrinklyDen.

I also carefully didn't touch the leak that had caused the loss of pressure in the first place, because there was no possible way that would end well over christmas.

Cudzoziemiec · « **Reply #12658 on:** 27 December, 2017, 05:58:41 pm »

If that counts as fettling, I'm fettling every fortnight!

And if it doesn't, I have given one of my bikes a new chain and the other new brake pads.

robgul · « **Reply #12659 on:** 27 December, 2017, 08:08:09 pm »

Fitted a new electric hob (stainless steel) to replace the glass one broken by an outgoing tenant - at least he paid for it -AND fitted a new bathroom fan at the same property : one with a "humidistat" (which I'd never come across before) that works not only with the light switch but is also activated by humidity to reduce condensation in the place.

So, just the painting to do over the next week or so :-(

Rob

Beardy · « **Reply #12660 on:** 28 December, 2017, 10:21:21 am »

No time,for fettlng, or indeed anything much, due to the driving around the country I’m doing for the Christmas family get togethering and the shuttling around of the broken daughter.
Weds - Woodbridge/London/Woodbridge
Thurs - Woodbridge/Wakefield
Fri - Wakefield/Ilkley/Wakefield
Sat - Wakefield/Bradford/Leeds/Wakefield
Sun - day off
Monday - Wakefield/Ilkley/Wakefield
Tuesday - day off
Weds - Wakefield/Woodbridge
Thurs - Woodbridge/London

T42 · « **Reply #12661 on:** 30 December, 2017, 03:44:00 pm »

Back to working on my daughter's catastrophized fretless bass, inadvertently trodden on during a removal. A happy hour or so with card scrapers - there's something rather magical about them.

Somnolent · « **Reply #12662 on:** 30 December, 2017, 04:11:23 pm »

Almost completed the updates on MrsS's ti audax bike.
Over the last couple of weeks I've replaced the heavy square taper triple with an HTII super-compact and the carbon blade/ally steerer fork with an all-carbon fork.

I had everything almost done a few days ago until I found the brake nut wasn't quite long enough for the new fork (with guards & dyno light). It can only have had about three threads on the old fork....
Anyway SJS got me the longer nut very promptly and all finished today.
Test ride tomorrow (weather permitting) and then a final cutting-to-length of the steerer.

rogerzilla · « **Reply #12663 on:** 30 December, 2017, 04:43:55 pm »

Took the Kilauea for an inaugural ride. All pretty good except the middle chainring is worn out. It's hard to tell by looking but it slips when I give it some beans. Centred the rear V brake a little and ordered a new chainring.

The NOS M536 pedals are great. I'd forgotten how much better they were when front and back plates were hinged.

rafletcher · « **Reply #12664 on:** 31 December, 2017, 05:57:45 pm »

An old Cateye TLD (I think) rear light onto the rails under the Brooks Swallow. And the Exposure Redeye rear light onto the seatpost. That’s bright!

LittleWheelsandBig · « **Reply #12665 on:** 01 January, 2018, 07:05:16 pm »

Replaced the front tube and rear tyre on my fixed. Replaced the front tyre on HK's Condor. Finally reassembled HK's Record hubs (new bearings, 4 cups and 3 cones).

Kim · « **Reply #12666 on:** 01 January, 2018, 08:02:25 pm »

Fed my friend's now-slightly-less-shiny Kalkhoff some overdue air and chain lube. The foot pump we bought form Decalthlon was declared a success - it managed 70PSI or so without too much drama, and I was quite impressed by the ease-of-use of the chuck (in Schrader mode). It may yet turn out to be made of cheese, but it's better than cheap nasty compressors or not being able to use a hand pump.

Chain lubrication was complicated by the cranks freewheeling at the motor, so the only way to turn the chain was to lift the rear wheel and turn in the forward direction, or just pull the chain backwards by hand. I opted for the latter, because heavy ebike. I regretted this as I managed to derail the chain at the chainring end, where it's thoroughly enclosed by a case. Eventually we worked out that by removing the battery, and with assistance to lift the wheel, I could get a couple of fingers in behind the case to re-rail the chain on the drive side of the sprocket while turning the cranks, and didn't have to dismantle anything.

The chain's still a little on the slack side of ideal (but I now realise this likely doesn't matter when it freewheels at both ends), and I've only looked up how to adjust for pad wear on HS11s in retrospect, but I did sort out the marginally rubbing mudguard and it should be fine until next time I'm in the vicinity.

Also fixed a rear light bracket onto the mesh of the rack-top basket, which it turns out was just big enough to squeeze an M5 bolt through with a little ultra-violence.

rogerzilla · « **Reply #12667 on:** 01 January, 2018, 08:44:18 pm »

Fitted some light brackets to the Fire Mountain. Not sure whether to keep it as an ice/snow bike permanently It's very useful to have a bike ready to go with studded tyres. It would benefit from thumbshifters though, since the front indexing is extremely troublesome. Unfortunately this would also mean new brake levers as it's "real" STI Rapidfire.

clarion · « **Reply #12668 on:** 02 January, 2018, 08:58:34 am »

I got my larger RC glider to work!

Cudzoziemiec · « **Reply #12669 on:** 02 January, 2018, 10:58:33 am »

Quote from: Kim on 01 January, 2018, 08:02:25 pm

Chain lubrication was complicated by the cranks freewheeling at the motor, so the only way to turn the chain was to lift the rear wheel and turn in the forward direction, or just pull the chain backwards by hand. I opted for the latter, because heavy ebike. I regretted this as I managed to derail the chain at the chainring end, where it's thoroughly enclosed by a case. Eventually we worked out that by removing the battery, and with assistance to lift the wheel, I could get a couple of fingers in behind the case to re-rail the chain on the drive side of the sprocket while turning the cranks, and didn't have to dismantle anything.

Is this a cycling-utility-land feature, ie it's only enthusiasts who actually lube chains, or just crap design?
Surprised an ebike doesn't have built in lights, too.

Kim · « **Reply #12670 on:** 02 January, 2018, 12:55:23 pm »

Quote from: Cudzoziemiec on 02 January, 2018, 10:58:33 am

Quote from: Kim on 01 January, 2018, 08:02:25 pm
Chain lubrication was complicated by the cranks freewheeling at the motor, so the only way to turn the chain was to lift the rear wheel and turn in the forward direction, or just pull the chain backwards by hand. I opted for the latter, because heavy ebike. I regretted this as I managed to derail the chain at the chainring end, where it's thoroughly enclosed by a case. Eventually we worked out that by removing the battery, and with assistance to lift the wheel, I could get a couple of fingers in behind the case to re-rail the chain on the drive side of the sprocket while turning the cranks, and didn't have to dismantle anything.
Is this a cycling-utility-land feature, ie it's only enthusiasts who actually lube chains, or just crap design?

I'm really not sure. Presumably there's a sound engineering reason for the cranks to freewheel, but it does make chain maintenance a faff if you don't have a workstand.

On the other hand, the single-speed chain being mostly enclosed means that it's picked up relatively little skog in its first 300 miles. For some reason the bike was supplied with what seemed like homeopathic amounts of a very thin lube, which was fine for summer conditions, but a generous applicaiton of Finish Line Wet should keep it going for much longer.

Quote

Surprised an ebike doesn't have built in lights, too.

It does (not clear what brand the front light actually is, but it runs from the ebike power and significantly out-performs my original Cyo).

The bracket is for a set of bicycle indicators (which in this instance are non-pointless under the disability exemption to the oh for fuck's sake rule). https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/552083685/blinkers-cycling-made-safe for those playing along at home - which after thorough research seemed to be the best off-the-shelf option, in spite of being a kickstarter thing. First impressions are good (they're bright enough, the magnetic quick-release brackets are clever and the progressive turn signal helps make up for the small width), but the supplied set had an intermittent fault (my comment was "it's wireless, what do you expect?"). Replacement due to arrive imminently.

Cudzoziemiec · « **Reply #12671 on:** 02 January, 2018, 01:03:36 pm »

I see. I guess indicators could also make sense for velomobiles, but I understand why you didn't want to specify what they were for.

Kim · « **Reply #12672 on:** 02 January, 2018, 01:14:50 pm »

Quote from: Cudzoziemiec on 02 January, 2018, 01:03:36 pm

I see. I guess indicators could also make sense for velomobiles, but I understand why you didn't want to specify what they were for.

Yes. I think they make good sense on velomobiles, and are potentially worthwhile on large cargo cycles. But the faff to clarity ratio is low for more normal bicycles, unless you're unable to give decent hand indications.

Unsurprisingly, if you do find yourself in need of a set of bicycle indicators, the choice tends to be cheap plastic crap from China, design student vapourwear, or bodging up a set from motorcycle parts. There's a decently simple system that fits in the bar-ends, but that's only any good if you have flat bars. The Blinkers seem well-engineered (much as I hate wireless things), assuming of course that the fault is a one-off manufacturing defect. They're not bad as a set of commuter battery lights, TBH, with USB charging and the magnetic^[1] brackets (which also double as the 'on' switch, ensuring that they won't switch on when rattling around in your bag) being a welcome innovation.

_{[1] Being skeptical I gave it some serious shake/jerk/thump testing and was unable to make the light fall out of the bracket, even with it pointing downwards, so comedy off-roading with it in a horizontal position shouldn't be a problem.}

rafletcher · « **Reply #12673 on:** 02 January, 2018, 06:31:39 pm »

Fitted a rack in hopeful anticipation of a) getting a second interview and b) being offered a job at the company that’s within (my) commutable distance. This required some brute force to get the fitting straps to line up with the attachment t points on the seat stays. And the matching rack-top bag now obscures the two rear lights (seatpost and saddle mounted) that I fitted a couple of days ago

. Still I have a B&M mudguard mounted light on the way, and I’ll molish something from the Cateye and Topeak plastic to fit the TLD light to the rear of the rack.

Paul · « **Reply #12674 on:** 03 January, 2018, 12:43:52 pm »

Quote from: Paul on 18 December, 2017, 01:20:24 pm

Replaced the motor in our Dyson DC14. Hugely satisfying.

Then, while using it, I had to move the still-in-their-plastic curtains that have been waiting to be hung for about 3 years, so nipped out for a pole and hung them.

My credit chez nous is pretty good atm.

And replaced the broken-for-at-least-2-years* double-glazed unit in the downstairs loo and fixed the blown-down-by-storm-eleanor-thankyouverymuch fence post** and panels.

Phew!

(*only the outside pane was broken, so we weren't completely exposed to the elements. Funny story: it got broken twice, once by each son, several months apart, using the same implement (a bouncy egg)! It was as though they wanted to make sure it was really broken.)

(**This job was also very overdue. The original wooden post had long since rotted at the base, so that it was actually being held up by the adjoining panels. I used a metal spike to repair. I suspect it is temporary, but will hold it until we have the time/money/inclination to install a concrete post.)