Do you use bull bars / tri bars?

[fruitcake]

I'm considering buying a set of bull bars to try and raise the riding posture on one of my road bikes. These bars are sometimes described as tri bars or aero bars, though I have no idea which (of any) of these are the proper name for the item pictured below.



I've always used drops so this bar design is new territory. I know I need to get special brake levers for use with them, and they're available with a groove for the brake cable housing, as with drop bars. I'll be using DT shifters, so there are no complications there.

1. What's the correct name for these bars?
2. Size-wise, should I be choosing the same width as the drop bars I currently ride? Or narrower / wider?
3. Anything else I should be aware of when switching to these?
4. Do you use them?

Cheers.

[PaulF]

1. I call them bullhorns.

2. I use them the same width as drops, on road at least.

3. Not really.

4. Yes, great for city riding especially I also did my first century ride on them.

[Torslanda]

Minefield. I call them 'bullhorns'. Tri-bars are generally the centrally clamped extensions with forearm rests

They come in different sizes: 22.2mm x 25.4/25.8/26mm or 23.8 x (same) or 23.8 x 31.8mm are the ones I've come across.

Anything 22.2 will take a standard MTB/BMX flatbar lever, also some reverse brake levers.

23.8 is the most common size for drop bars. Most reverse (time trial) brake levers will plug in but they may need shimming dependent on the bar wall thickness.

Some reverse levers run the cable internally - you'll need to get creative with a 5mm drill in order to let the cables escape - some externally a bit like bar end shifters.

Personally - I know that they're ugly but somewhat easier to fettle -  I would use a stem raiser on a modern a-head or a long quill stem on a threaded headset.

If you're anyhwere near the shop pop in and we can weigh up your options...

[Jurek]

1. Bull horns?
2. I would've thought the same width as your drops.
3. Brake levers for narrow / elbows-by-the-stem TT bars may have a reach which is greater than ideal for the type of bars you've shown. I have such levers on mine and had to rotate them slightly outward to make them more reachable (not pictured on the photo below).
4. All the time, on my commuter.


Aware that I'm repeating some of the stuff mentioned in the previous two posts.

ETA - Just wish the pic above was part of my commute.

[mattc]

I think "bull-bars" is most common - but that might be a TT community thing.

I have them on my shoestring 531 lo-pro setup. The seller had just fitted normal levers-for-drops (i.e not reverse), so the cabling looks hideous but worked absolutely fine! Mine have a curve, not a sharp bend like your picture. I believe they are normal old-fashoined drops, chopped and flipped over - work fine for the purpose.

I have some modern lightweight alloy jobs hanging in the garage - unused - that have the drillings described by Tors. They're probably for the older slimmer stem size, I can check. They're black anodized and need a new home ...

[Torslanda]

If you're used to drops, bullhorns will give fewer options for hand positions. Have you considered midge bars?

I have a pair of each you would be welcome to borrow if it helps...

[fruitcake]

Good info. Thanks all. I'd like to use reverse brake levers.

Supplementary comment following Torslanda's first post: Should any reverse lever fit any bullhorn bar? (i.e. is there a standard internal diameter at the bar end, or do the expanders on the brake levers allow the levers to fit into various bar sizes?)

Edit: just re-read Torslanda's post and noticed his comment on shimming. I think l'll just take the plunge and deal with this problem if it arises.

[Karla]

"Bullhorns" would be the most common name.  Tribars are the extensions in the middle.  On a TT bike with these plus tribars, you could also call these "base bars".

[Brucey]

if the intention is to raise the handlebar position, you may only get a small benefit over dropped bars unless you also do something else.

In a similar vein to a post above it is a lot easier to get a different stem/extension (system EX make some stems that are more angled than many) and try that first.

If you are not sure how much of a change will suit you, why not try an adjustable stem or something?  You can fiddle about to your heart's content and it will be cheaper, quicker and easier than changing the bars for another set that may be of no real benefit.

cheers

[Jurek]

Good info. Thanks all. I'd like to use reverse brake levers.

Supplementary comment following Torslanda's first post: Should any reverse lever fit any bullhorn bar? (i.e. is there a standard internal diameter at the bar end, or do the expanders on the brake levers allow the levers to fit into various bar sizes?)

Edit: just re-read Torslanda's post and noticed his on shimming. I think l'll take the plunge and deal with the problem if it arises.

I've probably still got the original brake levers which came with the bike when I took it off Thing 1's hands (aka: the ones in the photo above).
If you are interested PM me a postal address. You can have them for nowt. They are fully functional, but used, as a result of which they have character.

[DuncanM]

Some reverse levers run the cable internally - you'll need to get creative with a 5mm drill in order to let the cables escape - some externally a bit like bar end shifters.

I accidentally bought these - where should I drill my newly acquired bars (cheapass eBay ones)?
I use them on my fixie because it put my hands approximately where they would be on the hoods (where I always rode on that bike with drops), but you can get decent braking leverage from that position (unlike with my old school drop bar brake hoods).

[giropaul]

In the early days of Lo-pro bikes we just reversed the bars and sawed off the appropriate length to leave the “ bull bar” we needed. Cinelli 66s were especially suitable.

[Torslanda]

Drilling options. Either halfway between the bar end and the bend or halfway between the bend and the stem. On the underside of the bar, naturally.

I've done a few and my preference is the latter. Start with 3mm pilot hole and enlarge it to 5mm. Then you need to get 'creative' and angle the drill bit to elongate the hole to allow you to insert the cable outer without causing a kink. (Be VERY careful when you do this and only attempt it if you are confident of your abilities with a drill bit!)

Deburr the hole with a rat tail fine file (or use it to elongate the hole in the first place) and feed the outer cable in from the centre. Allow around 4 to 5mm of outer to protrude from the bar end to ensure the outer locates correctly in the lever.

HTH

[DuncanM]

In the early days of Lo-pro bikes we just reversed the bars and sawed off the appropriate length to leave the “ bull bar” we needed. Cinelli 66s were especially suitable.

That's what I had previously. Allows you to use regular brake levers too:
2016-02-19_05-45-53 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
Looks a bit "ghetto", and now I've repainted the bike, I wanted it to be a bit smarter!

Thanks Torslanda - I'll be careful (alloy bars are going to be a bit softer than the 1.6mm steel I've been playing with for my trike)

[LEE]

I have Charge Bullhorns on my Single-speed but they don't raise my riding position any more than when I used drop-bars.

In fact I'd say I am more stretched/lower when covering the brakes now.

Have you looked at Nitto "Noodle" drop bars?  They provide a few more options for adjusting reach (and therefore height).

[Jurek]

In the early days of Lo-pro bikes we just reversed the bars and sawed off the appropriate length to leave the “ bull bar” we needed. Cinelli 66s were especially suitable.

If memory serves, Woolly has (had) this arrangement on Stella.

[Brucey]

In the early days of Lo-pro bikes we just reversed the bars and sawed off the appropriate length to leave the “ bull bar” we needed. Cinelli 66s were especially suitable.

That's what I had previously. Allows you to use regular brake levers too:

I have successfully used standard shimano aero levers with underbar cable routing using this approach.  I don't much care for handlebars with holes in them; even if it is done very well it makes them 1/3 of the strength (in fatigue) and if it is done badly it could be 1/10th.

cheers

[DuncanM]

I have successfully used standard shimano aero levers with underbar cable routing using this approach.  I don't much care for handlebars with holes in them; even if it is done very well it makes them 1/3 of the strength (in fatigue) and if it is done badly it could be 1/10th.
cheers

I was concerned about that - I may just get another pair of brake levers with cable runs outside the bars...

[Kim]

Quite.  I've drilled the bars on a recumbent where the bars aren't weight-bearing, but the thought of doing it on an upright makes me nervous.  Maybe okay with steel bars?

[frankly frankie]

The first bars of this type that I used (nearly 30 years ago now - and haven't gone back to drops) were called 'low profile' bars - ie, exactly the opposite of what the OP is hoping to achieve.   Bull-horns is an ugly description but I'll go with it.
I currently use these, and can recommend them - though mine have a flattened profile on the 'tops' which restricts space for lights etc -
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/deda-elementi-crononero-tri-bar/rp-prod121042
I set them up to give an identical riding position to the one I would have when riding just behind the hoods on a pair of drops - so I don't really see that they offer anything if you're seeking a more upright position. 

I use standard STI levers and put up with a bit of ugliness with the cable routing, much as in the picture upthread - I've never much liked concealed cable runs anyway.  The setup is brilliant for commuting (hands always covering brakes) but for longer distances or touring you have to adopt a few tricks to avoid possible numbness problems, especially in combination with STI which means that you never have to shift your hands at all - but these tricks soon become 2nd nature.  I have ridden 600kms using them (but had to revert to drops just for PBP because rules).

[LEE]

Not sure if I can still share Google images but here is my old Orbit, converted to Single-speed with Charge "Slice" bullhorns.

[fruitcake]

Thanks Jurek, the reverse levers have just arrived and they look very nice. I appreciate the careful packaging too.

[fruitcake]

I have some modern lightweight alloy jobs hanging in the garage - unused - that have the drillings described by Tors. They're probably for the older slimmer stem size, I can check. They're black anodized and need a new home ...

I've just spotted this offer at the end of your previous post. Do you know the dimensions of the bar you have. I'd need 38cm or 40cm wide and 1" centre. Thanks.

[mattc]

I think "bull-bars" is most common - but that might be a TT community thing.

I have them on my shoestring 531 lo-pro setup. The seller had just fitted normal levers-for-drops (i.e not reverse), so the cabling looks hideous but worked absolutely fine! Mine have a curve, not a sharp bend like your picture. I believe they are normal old-fashoined drops, chopped and flipped over - work fine for the purpose.

I have some modern lightweight alloy jobs hanging in the garage - unused - that have the drillings described by Tors. They're probably for the older slimmer stem size, I can check. They're black anodized and need a new home ...

I tthink they're identical to these. 42cm width (C-C), 26.0 diameter at the stem:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/profile-design-airwing-db-alloy-road-bars/rp-prod26984

User Review: Tres beau bullhorn, très léger, ergonomique, avec passage pour les cables de freins

 
Google suggests you can only now get them in OverSize stem version, and they used to be £30 at CRC. Mine are almost mint! Offers welcome ...

[robgul]

Google    chop and flip handlebars    to see options to convert an old pair of drops to "bullhorn style" - I had these on my fixed for a while, excellent for city riding (with bar end brake levers)

Rob