182 primer is basically cellulose, I think. This is OK with a layer of acrylic on top but what you shouldn't do (I think) is use cellulose over an acrylic layer; this is what causes cracking/crazing to occur. So I think you can use 182 primer, either type of colour coat, and acrylic clear coat.
However if you have to go back and do repairs, you have to think carefully if you used a mixture of paints. There are two common circumstances;
a) you need to feather back all the colour coat when spraying primer locally, (i.e. so that no colour coat sees any primer overspray) if you used acrylic colour coat. Similarly
b) if you used a cellulose colour coat, you need to remove the acrylic clear coat completely if spraying a small repair area with fresh colour coat. This is less easy to do well, because you can't always see if there is clear coat remaining.
FWIW 182 primer doesn't give quite such a nice finish as a standard cellulose primer, plus it dries slowly and it costs more. Thus I often use a couple of thin coats of 182, then spray with a standard cellulose primer. The latter is usually slightly lighter in colour and dries a bit faster too. This means that when rubbing down if you see the darker 182 colour showing through you know the metal is not far away, and maybe you should quit rubbing in that area or spray another coat or two of primer.
With a bit of elbow grease you can get a DIY paint job that is mirror-smooth even using aerosols for the colour coats, provided you can cut the colour coat back. However it seems that most aerosol acrylics stay soft for ever; thus the finish chips through to the primer quite easily. If the primer is cellulose this part eventually dries very hard indeed, so rust from minor knocks is at least unlikely.
One of my plans is to try a two-pack clear coat, (now available in aerosol form) hoping that it will be both tougher and it will resist a type b) recoat problem, since once two-pack is cured, you can spray anything over the top of it.
cheers